Pumping Cracks with Dale

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 9, 2007 - 01:52pm PT
A crack climbing tutorial from one of the best, Dale Bard. This was originally put out in the Great Pacific Iron Works catalog in 1978. Tony Kerwin produced the illustrations.












Somebody besides Phil Gleason on 1096.


The ever controversial Henry Barber workin' it.

GPIW race team!

Classic stuff!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 9, 2007 - 02:12pm PT
thanks for posting this Steve -

much cultural and technical relevance, not to mention historic value and beauty

hey, anyone remember the picture in Mountain Magazine of Dale wearing a Dachstein sweater with the caption:

"Yosemite Hopeful, Dale Bard"



Then of course there's "Brave New World"
rockermike

Mountain climber
Berkeley
Jun 9, 2007 - 02:21pm PT
Where is this famous 1096? What's the real (new age) grade? Can you top rope it? Looks cool even if a little over my pay grade.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
1096 (ranger radio lingo for crazies) is located on the far right side of the big slab under the main Royal Arch. Turn the corner and the rock becomes steep quickly. Hangdog Flyer at 5.12 is the only other option to access 1096.
Blinny

Trad climber
TheHolyMont
Jun 9, 2007 - 03:10pm PT
RayDogMan. . . that sweater ended up soaking up an entire QUART bottle of tincture of benzoin one spring when it blew up in his pack. . . and he just kept wearing it. . . EVERY TIME I get a whiff of the stuff (some lives in my foot repair kit in my pack) I see him sitting there, with that possum eatin' shee look on his face, wearin' the sweater that brings back some of the best memories of my life!

:-)

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh. . . .

eKat
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 9, 2007 - 03:32pm PT
that's great Blinny!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 03:49pm PT
Too funny Blinny. The smell of nostalgia.... I never sprung for one of those beautiful sweaters. Rare day in Tucson that you could even wear it.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 9, 2007 - 06:40pm PT
Great article, I have it in mothballs.

The only Tr on 1096 is if somebody leads it, or bails from hangdog.

I led it in spring '79, When I got to the top my stalwart and supportive belayer (D. Cilley) congratulated me with, "I didn't think you were gonna make it."

I've got one of those sweaters, I can wear it in my house (@5000') in the winter with out heat, those things are what pre-shrunken sheep are all about.
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jun 9, 2007 - 07:58pm PT
I will have to quibble with one of the captions, "Barber workin' it." Rarely did Henry work anything. He climbed everything straightaway. Every time I climbed with him (he looked me up in Boulder on a regular basis, because, as he said, "I always manage to get up something when I call you." Anyway he is/was one of the all-time greatest climbers who ever lived or will live. Look at Butterballs or Fish Crack, or the free solo of Sentinel in, what was it, two and a half hours, or was it less? I'd have to check. But he did phenomenal things everywhere he went, in perfect style. One day he called and said let's go climbing, and we walked up to Roger Briggs' 5.12 overhanging gorgon "Death and Transfiguration" on the north side of the fourth flatiron. Henry sight-led it with only about 4 points of protection, not even stopping for a rest. I managed to follow the thing, pretty out of shape and having to apply myself (I had almost forgotten how, being somewhat lazy), and the reason I made it is only because I was running high on his energy, his very spirit like adrenaline flowing through space into me. I'm high now, because the philly won the Belmont. What a race! I was screaming during the race today and made my children run away in fear.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 9, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
nice vignette Oli,

I took "Barber workin' it." to mean

working the magic or,

working the mojo

etc...

I'm glad it got you to write some more - thank you.

PS: I wonder who that neatly dressed climber is on 1096, anyway?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 08:23pm PT
Ray's take is correct. No climber identified in the credits. Not many folks would have lead that thing on hexes and tubes.
WBraun

climber
Jun 9, 2007 - 08:28pm PT
Pat

Henry outright stole Fish crack from Kauk.

It was Ron's climb. I helped clean it with him.

Henry just straight ahead went up there with no regard.

Total as'shole on his part for that!
rockermike

Mountain climber
Berkeley
Jun 9, 2007 - 10:18pm PT
1096; Oh, radio lingo. I thought it was a play on being just short of 5.11. So what is the rating?
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Jun 9, 2007 - 11:22pm PT
I am holding the catalog in my hand. I also have a GPIW catalog with Doug Robinson urging everyone to train by going out talus running- I wonder how many broken legs resulted from that?
For years I tried to cultivate the cool look of the two guys carrying the Baltoro backpacks in the ad-(the worst back pack ever) must be what teen age girls feel like when they see the cover of Seventeen
murf
WBraun

climber
Jun 9, 2007 - 11:26pm PT
Actually they don't use 1096 anymore.

It's 5150 now.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 9, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
I wonder if the guy in the 1096 pic is Nick Taylor?
was that his name?
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 10, 2007 - 12:18am PT
Nice thread! Eh Ray? You and I were kinda into those crack thingamajiggers...at one time!! i always loved that shot of Dale with EB's from Mountain Mag...Yosemite hopeful? Yeah!! I'll ask Nic Taylor when I see him...which is often these days here.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jun 10, 2007 - 01:24am PT
No relation to ol' Skip Taylor I trust, eh Mike?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 01:35am PT
rockermike, it's always been rated 5.10d in the chimney/flare category. Just short of 5.11, as you thought.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2008 - 01:31am PT
Just in case a Bardarian lurks......
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