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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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May 23, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
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Update for Locker.
After another 15 varied pitches of climbing on these shoes in mostly upper 70s/low 80 degree weather.....my earlier assesment is reinforced...this rubber sucks for polished granite.
I did some moderate multi-pitch and craggging in them, then ran a few laps on Stone Groove, a leaning 1" to 1.5" crack with one foot in the crack, one smearing and edging on the face, trying out different shoes. This pitch is vauguely reminiscent of "Light Sabre" in Josh. And even accounting for the fact that this mystery rubber is on my loose/all day shoes and I'm not going to get great performance out of them, it still blows goats.
Seems to be quite durable, doesn't "chunk out" like C4, but just doesn't seem to be worth a sh#t for smearing. I then took a light wire brush to them, thinking maybe it was just oxidation or dirt or something that was making the rubber less than it could be....no real change after the wire brushing.
I am not a fan of whatever this stuff is (will be hilarious if it turns out ot be Onyxx, which I really like on my anasazi lace ups).
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2007 - 02:13pm PT
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Will - thanks for the reminder. I have an addition to my rubber review.
I ran these shoes out at Winslow Wall last weekend. This is my favorite shoe for that area - boxy edges. The rubber on this shoe is very sticky on sandstone (Winlow is Coconino Sandstone which is a deposit of intertidal dunes [so it's well sorted, "clean" sand{stone}]).
The rubber so far shows great durability - it doesn't roll off in hunks. The glue job is awesome.
So far so good with these shoes. This rubber is awesome making this shoe for Winslow even better.
tks again...
Doug
PS Will, Sooze sez I need to send you some cookies. i'll let you know when I do.
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Ouch!
climber
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May 23, 2007 - 02:15pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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May 23, 2007 - 04:16pm PT
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Yeah Doug, I do need some cookies. Man can't live on OE800 alone.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 23, 2007 - 04:39pm PT
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another classic ouch
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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May 26, 2007 - 02:15pm PT
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Another Update.
8 more pitches on the test rubber. Sunny, mid 80s. Half the pitches polished and half relatively textured granite.
Still hating this rubber. Still turning out to be very durable, but poor "feedback" and not sticky enough. Kinda bummed because these are my favorite all day shoes and I'd just retire them for a new pair, except 5.10 doesn't make them with the fat heel pad any more.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2007 - 12:56am PT
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there is no way Will and I have the same rubber on these shoes. This rubber BLOWS!!! It sticks to everything. The lamination job looks like it'll never peal off. It's all soft and sticky but looks like it'll last for quite some time. Sheeesh! These shoes are so perfect now it... it.... IT JUST SUCKS DONKEY BALLS!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2007 - 02:54pm PT
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yeah yeah.... Not sure why Will's shoes are not making him happy. I guess maybe rock out here just has a lot more friction texture. It's a good thing I don't climb granite in these or plan too. Or maybe his footwork just blows hard. YMMV
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
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I guess in a sense what I'm really comparing this mad rock rubber to is sportiva rubber (since the shoes are sportiva). I fell in love with my mythos after I had them resoled with C4. Sportiva rubber is tough but not very sticky. These Cliffs always worked well in Winslow on the Coconino Sandstone (well sorted dune sand) but I've never been to thrilled with sportiva rubber on granite or monzanite for that matter.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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May 27, 2007 - 05:57pm PT
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Hey Locker,
I'll be here until probably mid-Oct or so.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Locker - I need my Aztecs half resoled with Acopa rubber, can you do it?
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HighGravity
climber
Da Boonies (Aka Nuevo), CA
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I could go for an Aztec resole as well, with Acopa rubber of course.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Bear #46 knows that Locker has the stickiest sh!t available!!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Locker, dude, my pair of Acopa Aztecs are in the mail heading for Positive Resoles for a positive resole...
...looking foward to using your excellent work!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Yo, Locker, I'm sending a couple pairs of shoes in to you. I'm not sure whether to get C4 thin or thick. What do 5.10 Spires come with when they're new?
I'm also sending my Acopa Aztec's for a C4 resole. I'm thinking the thin. Ed, what did you use? The Aztec's are in good shape, just de-laminating on the front of one shoe.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Locker?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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LOCKER!!!!!!
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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I think the FBI finally located him.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Locker Darling, bring the rubber.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!