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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 11, 2007 - 08:55pm PT
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Locker,
Thank you very much for this resole job. I realize it's taken probably far too long to do you much good. For that I apologize.
I recieved the shoes two days ago. I've been busting my ass building a deck for a guy that lives 'round the corner. I've had little time to put the shoes to the test. Though I was rather exhausted after the week I took the shoes out for a spin today.
First let me evaluate the overall appearance of the resole job: 'cuz you are Rick James, Bitch, the resole job from an appearance point of view rates 9.5 outta 10. Ah shucks, just call it a 10. They look awesome:
It appears as though you also did a rand job on these shoes. Thank you. I'm very pleased with the workmanship and will say right now I will send any shoes in need of work to you - you do awesome work.
If I am not mistaken I believe there is different rubber on each shoe. IT sorta appears that way to me. I washed the shoes in warm water and gave them the rub test (rubbed palm of hand over rubber to test the stickiness). At first I felt the rubber was different. Now I'm not sure. Both shoes past the test ( sticky!)
Due to the fact that I have been working all week and am currently short on climbing time I went out to Intersection (five minutes out my front door) to give them a test drive. Not the best place as it's overhaning limestone and thus provided very little in foot placements to test the rubber:
My left foot was the first foot to slip. I attribute this more to bad technique than anything else.
As the resole job was done to a pair of sportiva cliffs I did notice the rubber is a lot more sticky than that crap sportiva puts on their shoes. I love the Cliff model due to the sorta box cut in the toe - it's perfect for climbing and Winslow Wall.
I will be going out to either the pit or Solitude on Sunday to give these shoes a real run.
I wonder what rubber the bionic man has on his "foot"?
My garden a week ago
The rubber on both shoes is pretty good to great. I'll know more after Sunday and will return a report pronto like.
Peace out and thanks again Mr. Locker,
Doug
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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May 11, 2007 - 09:26pm PT
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I second that Locker did a FABULOUS resole on my shoes:
* Acopa B3s
* 5.10 Sirens
* La Sportiva Cirque Pros
With all three shoes, I can't tell the resoles from new soles. I have several pair of Sirens and it takes a very close look to tell which pair have been resoled.
My Cirque Pros look like new shoes.
I let them cure for awhile after getting them back from locker and have had ZERO problems with delamination. I can't say the same for the SIRENS when they were new from the factory.
You rock, locker.
-Kate.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 11, 2007 - 09:30pm PT
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hey locker,
what are your coordinates again, I have a pair of Acopa Aztecs that need a new layer of RS rubber...
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reddirt
climber
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May 11, 2007 - 09:34pm PT
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Locker-
Thanks a bunch for the resole job on mine as well! Even w/ the bonus rand job, they fit exactly as they did before
: )
jpw
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 11, 2007 - 09:56pm PT
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locker, do you resole with Acopa RS? not on your order form...
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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May 11, 2007 - 10:38pm PT
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I'll second that. Locker resoled several pairs of my shoes, on pair belonged in a trash can and he still managed to make them functional. On pair had a minor delam problem, he fixed them, and they have been good as new ever since.
Thanks Locker!
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Ouch!
climber
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May 11, 2007 - 11:12pm PT
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Locker is the MAN! Just ask my pal Woody.
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WBraun
climber
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May 11, 2007 - 11:44pm PT
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So if we peel all her skin off and only flesh and bones remain will she still remain attractive?
Will she still be attractive at 80 years old?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 11, 2007 - 11:46pm PT
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when Nichol is 80, locker will be 140, and he'll still think she's attractive, skin or no skin...
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WBraun
climber
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May 11, 2007 - 11:48pm PT
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" when Nichol is 80, locker will be 140, and he'll still think she's attractive, skin or no skin..."
Hahahaha OK that will work.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2007 - 11:51pm PT
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Ok.....
A) Nichol Kidman is ridiculously haught! soo.. there's that.
B) Wil is a slacker - wow, I've been outdone
C) You rock. Really, please do make Summer SushiFest - I owe you!
D) Fukin' cannot wait to try these shoes out at Winslow Wall {spray} I gonna send 12d in 'em!!!! {/spray}
E) I will wear these bad boys out and will keep the review going until they are done with.
F) Wil, what say you?
PS - thanks for disclosing the rubber is the same. That'll help. I could just tell they were the same even tough I thought otherwise. I'm impressed thus far by this rubber. I'll bring my C4 shoes out and will compare them with these shoes on the same route. I Soooooooooooooooooooooooo Caaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan't Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaait!
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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May 12, 2007 - 10:20am PT
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Okay, enough of this sappy lovefest. Locker won't climb anymore because he's always playing "shoe fairy" out in his cave. So send your damn shoes somewhere else so he'll get back to what's important. Hell, I used to climb in tennies. Some of you people need to get back to real challenges and quit obsessing about the damn rubber on your shoes and give Locker a break before he forgets what a rock looks like. I hear Walmart's got a resoleing program now; send them there.
And speaking of climbing: I climbed in the Owen's River Gorge a few days ago. Great rock, great climbs but that trail down sucks. I'd rather do ten laps on the Tahquitz trail. Oh! Don't come out until the sun is elsewhere or it may be your last day on Earth. Maybe I'm just getting old and cranky, but taking a chopper in and out of the gorge should be given a thought.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
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Locker, I could see how you might be critical of your work. What I was looking at more than anything is the potential for delam - not gonna happen.
I will keep you updated as to how these shoes perform. I'm very excited to bust them out at Winslow Wall. My footwork is pretty damn good - it takes me a while to burn through rubber (I purchased these shoes 3 years ago and this is the first resole). So expect like two years of reporting before I finally blow through them.
Peace out and thank you again Mr. Locker.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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May 13, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
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Ok, Locker. Here's my initial impressions after putting about 15 pitches of valley granite on them:
The rubber seems a little harder than C4 and more durable, but less sticky than either C4 or Onyxx. I don't think either shoe's rubber is on par with either of these and can't see a reason to add them to your choices unless it's strictly a durability on Josh rock thing.
First day on them was a 50 degree, humid day. Right foot skated where it should not have on a couple of occasions. Next several pitches were about 70deg and dry. Rubber seemed to be performing better, but I can't say whether that is because the initial oxidized rubber was worn away and the fresh stuff underneath was better, or because the temps were warmer. (could also be that I was more tuned into slick valley granite after a winter on Josh monzonite).
Last 8 pitches or so have been on 80+ degree sunny dry days. They do ok and the feedback/feel on them seems better in warmer weather. The shoes are my all-day easy route comfy shoes, so it's hard to evaluate the rubber's thin edging or steep smearing.
All in all, the only advantage to the mystery rubber(s) is slightly more durability. I prefer Onyxx and have been completely happy with the Onyxx resole you put on my Anasazis, as well as the new Anasazis that are made with it.
I'll add another update after I get another 15-20 pitches on them.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2007 - 11:50am PT
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Locker: More Rubber review.
I was trying to get out to The Pit on sunday and test these shoes out on limestone. After working six days in a row (the last being a 10 hour day on the cherry picker) I just never found the energy. So the plan was to go yesterday. Never worked out as we had afternoon thunderstorms. So I went and pulled on plastic at Vertical Relief. I'm actually sore from that after putting in three hours at the gym.
Overall I'm rather impressed by the rubber on these shoes. The rubber does peel off - it seems very durable. At the same time I didn't once have a foot "grease" off of a hold - this rubber is pretty sticky. It approaches (at the very least) C4 in stickiness.
Today I'm heading down to The Doctors Office. So I'll have a report for sandstone by tomorrow. If it works out we're going to Winslow Wall over the weekend. That will be the litmus for these shoes.
Peace,
Doug
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Ouch!
climber
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May 17, 2007 - 08:44pm PT
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Nature, does this mean Locker is rehired as your PR man?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 17, 2007 - 08:52pm PT
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I like the way Locker is willing to grind down approach shoes and make wall shoes out of em. All custom and stuff.
As for Nicole, she's too man-sized to be that hot and I'd never consider getting together with her or even climbing with her.....
Unless of course, I got the chance to
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2007 - 11:16am PT
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you know you've "stunned" locker when he posts and doesn't use the return key.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2007 - 11:47am PT
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so does this mean I have acopa rubber on my shoes? Is there any reason you cannot disclose what rubber I have? No biggie if you wanna keep it a secret. These shoes rock!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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May 23, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
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Update for Locker.
After another 15 varied pitches of climbing on these shoes in mostly upper 70s/low 80 degree weather.....my earlier assesment is reinforced...this rubber sucks for polished granite.
I did some moderate multi-pitch and craggging in them, then ran a few laps on Stone Groove, a leaning 1" to 1.5" crack with one foot in the crack, one smearing and edging on the face, trying out different shoes. This pitch is vauguely reminiscent of "Light Sabre" in Josh. And even accounting for the fact that this mystery rubber is on my loose/all day shoes and I'm not going to get great performance out of them, it still blows goats.
Seems to be quite durable, doesn't "chunk out" like C4, but just doesn't seem to be worth a sh#t for smearing. I then took a light wire brush to them, thinking maybe it was just oxidation or dirt or something that was making the rubber less than it could be....no real change after the wire brushing.
I am not a fan of whatever this stuff is (will be hilarious if it turns out ot be Onyxx, which I really like on my anasazi lace ups).
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2007 - 02:13pm PT
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Will - thanks for the reminder. I have an addition to my rubber review.
I ran these shoes out at Winslow Wall last weekend. This is my favorite shoe for that area - boxy edges. The rubber on this shoe is very sticky on sandstone (Winlow is Coconino Sandstone which is a deposit of intertidal dunes [so it's well sorted, "clean" sand{stone}]).
The rubber so far shows great durability - it doesn't roll off in hunks. The glue job is awesome.
So far so good with these shoes. This rubber is awesome making this shoe for Winslow even better.
tks again...
Doug
PS Will, Sooze sez I need to send you some cookies. i'll let you know when I do.
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Ouch!
climber
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May 23, 2007 - 02:15pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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May 23, 2007 - 04:16pm PT
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Yeah Doug, I do need some cookies. Man can't live on OE800 alone.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 23, 2007 - 04:39pm PT
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another classic ouch
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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May 26, 2007 - 02:15pm PT
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Another Update.
8 more pitches on the test rubber. Sunny, mid 80s. Half the pitches polished and half relatively textured granite.
Still hating this rubber. Still turning out to be very durable, but poor "feedback" and not sticky enough. Kinda bummed because these are my favorite all day shoes and I'd just retire them for a new pair, except 5.10 doesn't make them with the fat heel pad any more.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2007 - 12:56am PT
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there is no way Will and I have the same rubber on these shoes. This rubber BLOWS!!! It sticks to everything. The lamination job looks like it'll never peal off. It's all soft and sticky but looks like it'll last for quite some time. Sheeesh! These shoes are so perfect now it... it.... IT JUST SUCKS DONKEY BALLS!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2007 - 02:54pm PT
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yeah yeah.... Not sure why Will's shoes are not making him happy. I guess maybe rock out here just has a lot more friction texture. It's a good thing I don't climb granite in these or plan too. Or maybe his footwork just blows hard. YMMV
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
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I guess in a sense what I'm really comparing this mad rock rubber to is sportiva rubber (since the shoes are sportiva). I fell in love with my mythos after I had them resoled with C4. Sportiva rubber is tough but not very sticky. These Cliffs always worked well in Winslow on the Coconino Sandstone (well sorted dune sand) but I've never been to thrilled with sportiva rubber on granite or monzanite for that matter.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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May 27, 2007 - 05:57pm PT
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Hey Locker,
I'll be here until probably mid-Oct or so.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Locker - I need my Aztecs half resoled with Acopa rubber, can you do it?
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HighGravity
climber
Da Boonies (Aka Nuevo), CA
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I could go for an Aztec resole as well, with Acopa rubber of course.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Bear #46 knows that Locker has the stickiest sh!t available!!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Locker, dude, my pair of Acopa Aztecs are in the mail heading for Positive Resoles for a positive resole...
...looking foward to using your excellent work!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Yo, Locker, I'm sending a couple pairs of shoes in to you. I'm not sure whether to get C4 thin or thick. What do 5.10 Spires come with when they're new?
I'm also sending my Acopa Aztec's for a C4 resole. I'm thinking the thin. Ed, what did you use? The Aztec's are in good shape, just de-laminating on the front of one shoe.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Locker?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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LOCKER!!!!!!
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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I think the FBI finally located him.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Locker Darling, bring the rubber.
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