Geek Towers - Center Route ???

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 23 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
nutjob

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 1, 2007 - 06:18pm PT
This looks like it would be nice adventure day...

Anybody done this and can guess how wet it is with present level of Upper Yos Falls?
WBraun

climber
May 1, 2007 - 06:37pm PT
Geek Towers - Center Route is awesome and did it with I forgot who the first time.

Once a couple of years later went to free solo it in Feb. one winter. But the off-width was wet.

I found a number 10 hex at the base that day and brought it with me just in case I needed to bail somewhere. Hah, it fit right in at the OW pitch where it was wet. I had dragged two 7mm ropes with me for the descent.

I believe it should be dry now, but don't really know. Go for it!
nutjob

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2007 - 07:09pm PT
Thanks Werner!

Alright, who's up for this on May 11, 12, or 13?

Should be some sweet views of the waterfalls and LA Spire from an uncommon perspective. Also a great trip to scope out LA Chimney.

Pitch ratings look like:
5.9
5.7
5.9
5.10a OW
5.8
5.8

If we have any juice left afterwords, we can TR some pitches of the right side during the raps... there's 2 5.9 squeeze pitches and a 5.10a OW pitch.
maui_mark

Big Wall climber
under a coconut tree
May 1, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
I was up there last summer with TEd Shred.

1. its frick'n hot up there in the pm.
2. to get to the real "base" you need to skirt an improbable traverse to the left. It looks like it gets cliffed out?? but no.
you end up on a huge flat and some what wet ledge(depending on the wind) and your right at the edge of a beautiful cliff and the falls.
3. the OW looks overhanging and wide. I would definatly bring some extra tat as the raps down the other routes are probally scetchy at best.

I'd say that the 5.9 rating is a total sandbag. in looking at it its stout.

We got such a late start and it was bacon up there that we didn't do the route. Just to get to the base was......interesting.

Im hoping to get to it ( rematch ) in a month.

Its beautiful up there. F*#k'n beautiful. Thats a summit worth standing on.

aloha
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
May 1, 2007 - 09:13pm PT
You may want to check out if the rappel anchors have been replaced or beefed up. I remember them being pretty bad a while back. Bring a kit maybe. Werner probably knows.

Ken
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 2, 2007 - 07:44am PT
Werner- #10 mana from heaven! Just for you. What is the story with the crux pitch on Freestone? Says 5.11d ow/fist. Any recollections or stories assuming that you've done that one? With all the love for the wide, this one seems to have been left out of the discussion along with Fallout.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 2, 2007 - 08:46am PT
I don't remember the raps being especially poor, so if the bolts are bad, there must be several of them.

Climbing the SS Bench Regular Route is a fun way to get there.
WBraun

climber
May 2, 2007 - 08:58am PT
Steve

The crux pitch on freestone is probably over rated. When Dale lead the thing on the first ascent he straight in fist jammed the upper part. Everyone lay-backs the thing there after (easier).

It's still an intimating looking pitch that I've lead on 12 different ascents. Each time I've gotten there I was still scared of the thing.

As for the #10 hex that I found, yeah that was strange how that ended up working. I could have easily down climbed back to the belay on that pitch. The #10 hex just made life a whole lot easier at that point.

Edit: I did the route once with Gib Lewis and one of Bridewell's rap route bolts broke on him while he was descending. I had backed the bolt up with some slings around a block before he took off (for just in case purposes).

When the bolt snapped Gibb yelled up and asked what happened. I told him the bolt broke and it's your lucky day.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 2, 2007 - 09:08am PT
Thanks for the info Werner. That one is still at the top of my list and for good reason if you have logged a dozen ascents!

All good soloists deserve favor however it is manifested.

Sounds like you were the unlucky guy to then rappel off of the back up block! One bolt station?
Greg Barnes

climber
May 2, 2007 - 09:54am PT
From http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitefree.htm

Geek Towers Rappel Route/Right Side Route Replaced 1 bolt at each of the lower 4 rappel stations 07/01 Jack Hoeflich
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 22, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
Bump the tread with the question: For those who climbed Geek Tower in May-June:
Is there big probability that route be wet due to wind from Waterfall toward the Geek Tower route during the day?
Is there any pastern of wind similar for Horsetail fall? I meant wind with almost constant direction from west to east which making E .Buttress of El Cap wet during the day in april-june?
BTW, nutjob did you enjoy the route?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 22, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
Center Route is a fun outing. From the base, due to foreshortening it looks overly vegetated and harder than it really is. The climbing is consistently 5.8 - 5.9 with a few easy 5.10 sections, and has a lot of variety and pretty good rock. Fun stuff. The bushes hardly matter.

Cool summit, location, location, location.
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
May 22, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
Alexey,

I did the center route in June 05 which was a big snow year and never got wet at all.
Needless to say the location is stunning and other than the first 5.9 pitch having a wet slimy section with a few bushes the climbing is good and has a seldom done feeling to it. Count on having to leave a tied sling at all the raps.

Where you start the route
Where you start the route
Credit: Hardly Visible


Credit: Hardly Visible


I think this is the belay above the 10a pitch
I think this is the belay above the 10a pitch
Credit: Hardly Visible


Credit: Hardly Visible
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 22, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
thank you Hardly Visible, I like your photos and now more convinced not to take wet suite on the route
WBraun

climber
May 22, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
The center route is for the mortals.

One must do the left side "FreeStone" to become immortal ......
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 22, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
Werner, you callin' me immortal, bitch? Cause i climbed freestone? I'm
Just a mIddle aged school teacher from the Midwest with a portfolio of weird climbs, jostling to be reborn as the urinal next to russ

Namaste, really:)
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 22, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
Didn't The Bird "do" Freestone?
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
May 22, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
Feb. 2010, we made it up 3 1/2 pitches. Mr. epic of course wanted to go on, but we got down to the start of the route at dark.

Definitely bring a supply of webbing.
Credit: Jay Wood

There's some slime
Credit: Jay Wood

It was dry at the start of the route last June when the falls were full, so I doubt you'd get wet.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 23, 2012 - 06:20am PT
HeyGregBarnes,

The beta you dropped on us just now, I checked the source, ASCA.

What a great thing that is.

More folks should know of it.

How long's it been around?

mfm
tarallo

Trad climber
italy
May 23, 2012 - 06:43am PT
ciao just an info
is freestone climbable now or wet?
thank you
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