Ha ha, thanks Alexey and Jay for resurfacing this! I had wanted to make a trip report of our (my and Jay's) adventure as part of another report when I got around to reaching the top! I went back once, and we bailed because of ice sheets falling onto the route. Still need to get back there, hopefully this summer.
But here are my pics from our adventure:
General conditions in Feb 2010:
We solo'd up Sunnyside Bench with a pretty casual 8-8:30am start...
Had some excitement on the final bit of the approach; I tried the high road, which involved punching fists into steep snow with a creek flowing directly beneath. I retreated back to Jay's way:
Ice in LA Chimney:
Jay gettin' it done on the first pitch, with an interesting step-across with suboptimal pro at the end:
I think this was looking down on P2, with some bushy mess out of sight below this chimney:
Maybe Jay needs Da Brim for his next birthday:
Jay gettin' to the money:
This pitch was AWESOME! I can't wait to go back and do it again:
You can't tell but there is a solid hand jam buried underneath the thickest green part:
After I wiped my hand on my pants, this is what it looked like:
I did manage to get it cleaned up a bit more, but trying to jam later in the pitch from awkward positions, with that slippery stuff interfering, was definitely the crux.
Grunting along some time later:
Happy as a clam!
Cracked piton belay not inspiring, so we backed it up before rapping:
But first we enjoyed some glorious views:
A good day, but a short day because of the season, and we opted for the non-epic daylight descent.
Anyone know anything about the descent for this route? Is the route in any of the guidebooks? Thanks for the pics by the way! I can't wait for the snow to melt so I can start climbing in the valley again
Descent is rap the route or if you top the formation, right side looks cleaner possibility. Then retrace your approach. Beware that steep snow traverse with river underneath in early season.
Actually instead of down-climbing Sunnyside Bench for the end of the descent, it is easier to walk off to the east. At night we crossed bazillions of millipedes. Only time I've experienced that in the valley.
Here was a pic from a time with ice sheets coming down when we didn't even try to start the climb:
Dammit, I've still never been on top to see the GEEK chiseled in there. It's good to have a bucket list, even if it appears stagnant at times.