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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Apr 17, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
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Picture = 1,000. Post up your photos for we who've never been out there.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Apr 17, 2007 - 07:53pm PT
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All this talk of the Gunks is priming me for this weekend...I'll be there. The weather is supposed to be grand...for me any way, coming fom Vermont.
Mack
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Irisharehere
Trad climber
Gunks
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Apr 17, 2007 - 08:15pm PT
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Horseman heads up a thin crack past a small tree (on the left of the photo), then continues up the large right-facing corner. Up towards the top, you traverse out left, around the nose, then climb the face above....
sorry for the small image, best I could find in a hurry!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Apr 17, 2007 - 08:16pm PT
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le_bruce:
Picture = 1,000. Post up your photos for we who've never been out there.
jstan:
When you partner has become entirely comfortable with the place, go to MF. Once you get the small holds above the ceiling you know you have found a home.
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Irisharehere
Trad climber
Gunks
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Apr 17, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
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Modern Times goes up the face here - where the climber is, to a big belay ledge.
The second pitch, you work your way up to this roof - and then try to find the 5.8+ way through it!!!!!
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Irisharehere
Trad climber
Gunks
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Apr 17, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
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Of course, for some SERIOUS Gunks roofs, you can head to the Yellow Wall. One of Johnny Bragg's finest lines!
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jstan
climber
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Apr 17, 2007 - 08:57pm PT
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With old age you lose two things. Thanks to your memory going first you never miss the loss of the second.
Erect Direction: There is not a chance I would ever give a climb this name. Zero. My old guides are in the desert so I can't refer to them. I think Roy Kliegfield did it first. Get the old blue guide.
Horseman: I have saved the Horseman photo posted above. From the old Eastern Trade days I have a picture of Horseman taken in 1940 or 1941 by Fritz. Once I get the 8x10 scanned I will post the two together. Prepare to be separated from your socks!
Yellow Wall: I walked by Yellow Wall one day while Jim and friends were first doing it. Correct or not I have the vague recollection they spent the night on it just for fun. Years later Kevin Bein was doing it on top rope. I saw him come off. He swung out half way to New Paltz.
So there you go. You have proof positive old Gunks climbers love to blubber in their beer over old times just like everyone else.
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TradIsGood
Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
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Perhaps it was given its name by the first ascentionists, Bill Goldner and Deniss Mehmett in 1966.
So did you free the second pitch? I have never tried it myself.
Swain says One of the best 5.10s in the Gunks. If the second falls off the last pitch, an epic may ensue. ... Crabcrawl right , and layback desperately to a hanging belay... He has the same FA and FFA info as Williams. I do not have blue book.
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BadInfluence
Mountain climber
Dak side
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Apr 17, 2007 - 09:24pm PT
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JStan how about Fat City in one pitch
Tradisgood, you should climb the 2nd and 3rd pitch of ED hot route.
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TradIsGood
Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2007 - 09:37pm PT
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:-) While I may have managed to get up a couple one move wonder 10 pitches on TR at the Gunks, I don't climb (often) with that quality leader - and I sure am not in that category myself.
I have yet to lead an 8 there - and that is my home crag! I keep saying this year.
So I repeat. This year. I love Snookies Return, but worry about getting the first piece in despite never falling on the climb. Followed ED P1 once. Thinking also about ED and last pitch of Bombs Away Dream Baby, which is already downgraded below 8. Also like Sundown, Twisted Sister, and the variation of Raubenheimers, but don't have the right wires for the latter two.
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Apr 17, 2007 - 11:35pm PT
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Ugh. If you're worrying about gear on a climb like Snookies, I'd stay away from BADB. The second pitch crux is a really long reach with gear below your feet and if you blow it, you will most likely deck unless you have a REALLY good belayer and a not-very-stretchy rope. Middle Earth is a very nice 5-6 (depending on who you consult) in the same area (and you can take a look at BADB and decide, since their second pitches start at the same point).
Ursula, The Last Will be First, and Miss Bailey are 3 particularly good 5.5 - 6's I've done this so far this year. I've decided I'm going to try to hit all the 2-3 star 5, 6, 7, and 8's that I haven't led yet this year, and try to get more comfortable at 9s, so It's been a lot of the 5s and 6s the past few weeks.
Someone mentioned Sixish (5.4) and that is always my favorite climb to take new climbers on, because you get a little of a lot of things (a layback move or two at the beginning, a thin traverse on a ledge, a blocky gunks corner, a traverse around a nose, a semi-hanging belay (if you stop), a roof that feels overhanging to a newbie off of the belay, beautiful gunks face climbing and the GT ledge. What more could you want in a 5.4??)
Looks like the weather's beautiful this weekend, so I'm off to the dacks!
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ghand
Sport climber
Golden,Colorado
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Apr 18, 2007 - 12:57am PT
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Per Blue Guide (published 1972):
175. Erect Direction 5.5 A2
F.A. Bill Goldner and Dennis Mehmet in 1966.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Apr 18, 2007 - 02:59am PT
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Whoa! Thanks Chiloe, Irish, and Bad.
Those are terrific photos, breathtaking lines... Thanks for posting.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 18, 2007 - 03:38am PT
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thanks for the pix and the blast from the past... hopefully I'll be out in late May or early June on a trip swinging through the east coast and can arrange a day of playing hooky!
I love the 'Gunks, fun fun cragging!
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JubJubBird
Trad climber
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Apr 18, 2007 - 04:16am PT
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Take em on The DANGLER!
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TradIsGood
Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2007 - 07:28am PT
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Aya, maybe BADB is height related? Do not remember the roof move as reachy. I am also thinking there was a cam placement within reach above the roof.
But I could be wrong. How did these callouses get on my knuckles?
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jstan
climber
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Apr 18, 2007 - 01:37pm PT
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Bill Goldner and Roy used to climb together so I can
believe I got the two confused after forty years of doing
other things. I do remember something about ED so I
may have freed it. Have to check my old blue book. I
wrote stuff down in it.
Fat City as one pitch?
I do remember a little on that one. Rope drag is the
issue as you may want to traverse around on the
easier but still overhanging rock near the top. A lot
of air up there. If you third class the first 50 feet or so
and put a long runner in to protect the move to the
pin at the hard move you will have drag only if you
move left right after the hard part. If you stay difficult
and take the second OH right above the crux you
will then have three pieces in-line after you put
another in to protect your exit. So yeah, you may
still be able to move right then left up there.
Thought of double rope? Will 160' reach?
Oh by the way, if it is not noted in the books.
Gary Brown did, by far, the hardest climbing
when he put in the pin at the crux. He was
the man.
It has been a long time so I may have something misremembered.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Apr 18, 2007 - 02:25pm PT
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Some random Gunks photos:
Yellow Wall (also in the New Scanner - Old Climbs thread)
Mellow Yellow
Our beloved Kevin Bein (R.I.P.) on Matinee
Groovy
Westward Ha!
Trapped Like a Rat
Arrow
Beatle Brow Bulge
Feast of Fools
Oblique Twique in Winter
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Apr 18, 2007 - 02:58pm PT
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Thanks for sharing those classic climbing photos, Rich.
What's your impression about the popularity of 5.10-and-up leads in the Gunks now, compared with a few decades past?
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BadInfluence
Mountain climber
Dak side
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Apr 18, 2007 - 03:32pm PT
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RGold you are ripped on the yellow wall one of 0% body fat types.
JStan my buddy in the photo is a strong boy he only placed 6 pieces of gear to do FC in 1 pitch. I'm a weakling though that's why i take photos
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