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TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 17, 2007 - 10:51am PT
Where even 5.5 has roofs. And 5.4 can kill. :-)

Took a new outdoor climber out Saturday.

Jackie 5.5 P1 (2 roofs) linked to Classic (5.4?) P2, fairly vertical dihedral.

TR'ed Boston 5.4 wide (need at least 5 inch cams to protect). (and thin face climbing on a route to the right.)

Baby (5.6) P1 crack and face followed by p2 steep dihedral topped by crux roof.

Then Katzenjammer 5.7 to finish up a short day.

***
Friend had only seen Red Rocks the week before. Says Gunks are harder, even though some of the grades were easier. Have to teach roof technique.

***

Lame TR, but climbing post needed today IMO.

Irisharehere

Trad climber
Gunks
Apr 17, 2007 - 11:21am PT
Now take them on Hawk, High E, and Madame G's next weekend, for the full Gunks experience!
TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2007 - 11:35am PT
:-)

New to outdoor climbing. Trying to stick to stuff where I can reverse the route if necessary and also keep follower in sight as much as possible. Like to keep this climbing partner (so far!). Though I would consider Horseman just because it is so cool.

Friend almost made it all the way up Plan F (5.10) at Red Rocks. Multiple hangs on Baby roof, no hangs on crux roof of Jackie, but took about 4 tries to figure out. (In fairness, Jackie roof is probably a bit tougher for the vertically challenged.)

Hawk might be nice, but not while it is soaking wet. I have only done Madame G's and High E once each. I recall MG as just a lot of vertical jug work, so it would probably be ok, but High E> Ha!, we will wait a bit for that one. Kind of a one move wonder, but one where climber is not in sight and may not even be in audible contact.
Irisharehere

Trad climber
Gunks
Apr 17, 2007 - 11:40am PT
Yeah, if you want to keep in contact with them, Horseman would be OK, can always split it into two pitches. Try Shockleys - always fun! Or Gelsa out in the Nears
TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2007 - 11:49am PT
I have not yet done Shockley's! :-) Guess it is time to do that one.

Did Gelsa once, and never understood its popularity.

Getting on Horseman is a crap shoot on the weekend unless you are willing to wait. Usually have done that during the week.

Beginner's Delight P2 and P3 are worth it, as well as all of 3 Pines with the white face variation on last pitch. Will hit them soon.

Maybe it is time I lead P1 of Erect Direction. Strength is not an issue.
scuffy b

climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
Apr 17, 2007 - 11:54am PT
Thanks for the report. It seems nice that you're so intent on avoiding the "turn-off" incident.
Good Luck!!!!
jstan

climber
Apr 17, 2007 - 12:17pm PT
Goodness! All those old names.
Hawk Trip Report(1965)
My first time tied into a rope there were three of us beginners sitting on that first eight inch ledge banging our heels on the rock and enjoying the view. As the fourth beginner tried to join us on the ledge we all had to move over. As we did there was a metallic sound followed immediately by a calm statement from the leader. "Don't anyone move." He then reached over and clipped us all in again.
I don't remember Erect Direction. Was that a Kliegfield route? If so you should go look at what I think is his masterpiece, Kliegfield Follies. As you go up the situations just get more and more unlikely.

When you partner has become entirely comfortable with the place, go to MF. Once you get the small holds above the ceiling you know you have found a home.

Cheers,
Irisharehere

Trad climber
Gunks
Apr 17, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
Gelsa is all about the last pitch. Certainly a bit pedestrian for experienced climbers, but for someone getting used to climbing outdoors, it's PCE - Pure Climbing Enjoyment!!!!

Vertical, right-facing corner, great big holds, nothing to worry about, just enjoy the movement and the views out over the valley..........

On another note, it starts to rain EVERY single time I climb the first pitch of that route!!!!!
TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2007 - 12:40pm PT
That's funny. I thought Erect Direction was a John Stannard route. Will have to go look at the guide book. First pitch is 8, second is 10 IIRC.
jstan

climber
Apr 17, 2007 - 02:14pm PT
Had he not preferred doing aid I always thought Roy could just as well have done those climbs fifth class. It was a matter of what he liked doing. Whatever the truth of the matter, he had a superb eye for routes.

I suggested MF because it really is a threshold breaking climb. When I got above the overhang and found there was no air passing by my ears I decided if this was possible, anything must be possible. Most people doing Jim's climb wind up having a sort of primal response.
kimgraves

Trad climber
Brooklyn, NY
Apr 17, 2007 - 03:43pm PT
Might try the 5.5 variation of Beginner's Delight - it goes straight up following the corner as it curves over you. It's spectacular!

Best, Kim

Edit: also Sixish (5.4).
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Apr 17, 2007 - 03:53pm PT
I recall on my first real trip to the Gunks (got rained out the first time) doing Modern Times. Holy crap!! Biggest 5.8 roof on the planet.
Irisharehere

Trad climber
Gunks
Apr 17, 2007 - 04:51pm PT
Lol, MT is still regarded by many as a "5.8 to do when you climb 5.9"!!!!!!! Many have taken the big ride coming off the roof.

We'll see if I ever get near it!
JB

Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
Apr 17, 2007 - 05:28pm PT
Ah Modern Times. My first multipitch (or attempt at least). Didn't have a nut tool, so the nut getting stuck under the first roof led to a mini-epic and retreat...

Need to get back on that sometime.
TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2007 - 05:50pm PT
Hmm... :-)

Trolling? Alzheimer's? Or did Dick Williams get it wrong?

Erect Direction
5.8, 5.10c, 5.9+, FFA 1973, John Stannard and John Bragg


Hmm II
Updraft :-) I have enjoyed ;-) watching people do Belly Roll, but that has a bomber jug that allows you to escape as soon as you can reach it.
DavisGunkie

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Apr 17, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
id vote against taking a beginer up shockleys especially if they had trouble on Jackie's roof. With road noise the leader won't hear anything the follower has to say. I was caught behind a a party where the second was hanging in mid air on the verge of tears since he couldn't do anything. i had to take him up shockleys without (which is a mighty fun variation)

i second gelsa.

horseman you really can not see the follower for only the first bit, but its pretty mellow. the scariest part of the traverse is rounding the nose, and you can watch them or have them sit on it.
TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2007 - 05:56pm PT
Davis, I agree with everything you just said. I only once decided not to take somebody new up Horseman, and that was during the week for fear that it might be highly adventurous trying to retrieve gear if the follower freaked and bailed before the traverse.

This partner would have no trouble with that!
DavisGunkie

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Apr 17, 2007 - 06:10pm PT
eh, i personally don't think it would be that hard to downclimb the initial face.

worst comes to worst, you could downclimb to the tree and then lower off that.
TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2007 - 06:28pm PT
? DavisG, I was thinking that I run both Horseman pitches together, as usual. That avoids making newbie uncomfortable with nearly hanging belay at the chains (also allows you to put pro above last few feet of traverse eliminating some pendulum potential). Say the second bails somewhere before the traverse, leaving lots of gear to clean. Sure I can pull up the rope and clean P2 on rappel.

What are you suggesting about the gear on the traverse and anything that might be left on face of P1?
DavisGunkie

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Apr 17, 2007 - 07:32pm PT
well you said if the follower freaked out before the traverse...

Depending on your comfort level leading it.

you can get something in from the corner out on the traverse within arms reach of the corner

then when you round the corner pplace as high as you confident with (at that point its just a big jug haul).That should protect the second for the back-end of the traverse.


Anything on the face after the traverse you should be able to get on rappel should the need arise.


What i would do is reclimb the first face and then downclimb cleaning as i go. I think the 5.5 is turning the corner, and that face is easy to downclimb

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