Yose crack bouldering circuit

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Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Camp 4, Site 10

Apr 27, 2007 - 03:33pm PT

Here she is:

But be careful and don't upset the snake:

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Camp 4, Site 10

May 21, 2007 - 03:05pm PT

Wide crack lovers, take note.... (Ed? Jaybro? Gary? you listenin'?)

Yesterday I established a very short new problem right next to the fingercrack boulder shown above.

"Recreational Struggling" is easy to find. Facing the fingercrack above, walk to the right around the side of the fingercrack boulder onto the "patio"...a perfectly flat slab of rock with killer views of Half Dome and Sentinel. Now facing the fingercrack boulder on the patio you will be staring at an obvious vertical face problem. Look at about 4:00 position from there and you will see two small boulders that almost touch at chest height, forming a small cave underneath...this is about 10-15' from the fingercrack boulder and right off the end of the patio. You may find some chalk on a tiny crimp on the boulder that forms the right side.

Start about 6' back in the "cave" with a hand and fist jam, invert, ram your feet/legs up in there and shuffle out, cut hands, do a giant sit up to desperate gastoning transitioning into a psuedo mantle on slopers and tiny crimps. Drop one leg, torque the other and finish the mantle. This went down on the 4th or 5th attempt after trying facing both directions. Going out of the cave with your right side leading was the key.

How hard? Who f'in knows...hard enough for me after 3 OE800s. Somebody go get the 2nd and tell me. Ed, Gary, Scuffy, Jaybro...go get some it's a 2 minute walk from camp 4. Vaugely reminiscent of the crux move on The Inquisition. Find me in the camp host site and I'll even walk you right to the thing.

Props to the kids from CO who cleaned it up a bit and showed it to me. I'd been to that fingercrack at least 5 times in the last month, walking right by the thing and never even contemplated it as being a problem. I've been pleasantly surprised at how willing the current crops of young guys are to get in the wide.

No pics because it was basically dark and the Olde English that preceeded and fueled the session didn't help me remember to take a camera. Maybe I can get some fresh meat on it soon and get some snaps to post up.