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BKW
Mountain climber
Central Texas
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 15, 2007 - 01:22pm PT
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Am going to be in the valley at the end of April with my daughters and their SO's. Will be my first non climbing visit to Yosemite! Figure I will get 1/2 day to boulder if the kids wear out.
Am looking for some moderate crack boulder problems, up to 5.10, preferebly hands, preferably clustered. Ha ha.
Any suggestions?
Have always just climbed and been part time tourist on rest days.
Hate doing the starts to crack climbs I know. Too tempting to keep going.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 15, 2007 - 01:26pm PT
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sorry, only ones I know are Short Circuit, Circuit Breaker, and Bachar Cracker.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 15, 2007 - 02:36pm PT
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"Stubs", to left of "Tips".
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 02:44pm PT
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There is a nice finger crack somewhere in the boulders behind C4 which is pretty moderate, for a boulder problem. One day in the early 80's Steve Scheider, maybe Dimitri Barton, myself and a few others where back there huffing ganja and we stumbled upon it and proceeded to see "who could do it with the fewest jams", then after that, "who could do it with the most jams".
Hell if I could say where it is; sorta in a tight cleft as I recall.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Jarhead City, CA
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Apr 15, 2007 - 02:50pm PT
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Maybe look at the Penthouse cracks and Grant's crack, all on Swan slab.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 15, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
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You can top rope the first pitch of New Dimensions, easily. Just hike further up the hill to get to the top of that first pitch and set up a top rope. And it is a classy 5.10b pitch starting with 5.9ish off-hands to narrowing 5.10b fingers, some footholds.
You can top rope Short But Thin, on the base of El cap rt of The Slack and left of La Cosita. It is a short 5.11b pitch that you can arrange a T/R by a easy 5.7 flare to obtain the anchors. Fingers, body position and smart sequencing, good tiny route.
You can top rope Chingando, on the Iota near Reed's Pinnacle. You access the T/R anchors by getting into the regular route chimney 5.4 behind/inside of the Iota and work out to the front of the Iota laterally to get to the bolt(s). This Chingando pitch is about 100 feet or less, a little coarse, but is offwidth and pod with a few fist jams also. Not too many of these to practise on in this manner in the Valley.
And of course there is the great resource of The Generator Crack, along the road down-valley between Cascade Creek and 120/140 junction, at the old generator building. Walk to the top of the split boulder roadside, and set up anchors there.
As far as UNROPED crack bouldering, most of it is already mentioned above.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 15, 2007 - 05:26pm PT
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I tell ya the truth I tried Stubbs twice - once under full power - and got badly shut down both times.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 15, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
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and then there is the neat boulder on the trail past the Ahwahnee, just above the trail and to the north. two ropless bouldering cracks right leaning .10ish. and a top rope - right leaning thin crack w/ two bolts - it's in the reid guide, missnamed - the real name is Blunt. 5.12
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scooter
climber
B loop site 15
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Apr 15, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
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there are some fun easy cracks at the junction to go up to yose point. Swan slab stuff
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 15, 2007 - 08:48pm PT
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full disclosure edit: I am not a boulderer...
ok pick up a copy of Don Reid's Yosemite Bouldering (ISBN 0-9676076-0-4)
Leaning Tower Boulders
Crank Out 5.11 *** straight in finger crack uphill directly behind the restrooms
Crossroads Boulder
Little Mouse V3***R left-slanting crack/seam to steep face, cross Hwy 41 at the restroom pullout and head towards Hwy 140
on the Lost Boulder, Deliverance aka The Lost Crack V8*** 40' crack in the ceiling of a cave...
Near Sentinel Bridge
Milton's Finger 5.7
Milton's Fist 5.6
LeConte Boulder
Regular Route/Descent Route V0-** Right-curving thin crack
Mini-Meanies and Indian Caves
Left Mini-Meanie V0***R leaning, overhanging hands to fist
Right Mini-Meanie V1***R fingers, off-hands to hands
Half-Pint V7*** (top rope) tip locks in pin scars
Plaque Boulder
Mini-Stein-Way V3** sit-start, left leaning off hand/finger
5150 V2** sit-start to power jamming
Wine Boulder
The Other Side 5.8 R (flared chimney)
Robbins Crack 5.9**R (offwidth from by two adjacent boulders)
get the book
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 11:53pm PT
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Very nice Ed.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Apr 16, 2007 - 02:41am PT
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I remember doing a couple of 5.9+-ish, maybe 5.10, off-width boulder routes, the unroped type, up behind the Wine Boulder somewhere. You have to look around I guess. Maybe they have been named above already. I can't recall their names. And a little farther up that same slope of boulders other things appear, if I recall, in the way of off-width type cracks. I guess if you are looking for bouldering cracks you don't want top-ropes.
Pat
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Apr 16, 2007 - 04:45am PT
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Don't neglect the bad ass mother and child, and the cool wheel.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Apr 16, 2007 - 09:49am PT
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1:45 am, wtf Jaybro
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Apr 16, 2007 - 11:34am PT
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Deliverance is burly but cool. Was anyone gone out there and tried it? Fat Weasel is a crack on the Energy Boulder behind King Cobra. It climbs like a face route. There also the route to the right of the mini-meanies. It's wicked hard but really aesthetic. Half-pint I guess. Highball. Twist of Fate is a good one too. And Badass Baby is a good crack problem too.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 16, 2007 - 12:04pm PT
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glad someone mentioned badass baby,
hey can someone honestly tell me how hard V7 is compared (roughly) in YDS?
thanks
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Apr 16, 2007 - 02:36pm PT
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v7 ~ 12d
v8 ~ 13a
Half pint and Deliverance crack would be proud sends.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Apr 16, 2007 - 03:18pm PT
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Second vote for Circuit Breaker. It's .11b thin fingers, less than vertical, just 20' with a sand landing. The moves are right off the ground. I slipped from the last move late one night by headlamp, way buzzed, with spotters who were stoned out of their minds/not spotting. Knocked the wind out of me but I walked away, this was before pads. Great TR/problem.
(Short Circuit is down along the river, right? I always get these two names mixed up)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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Apr 26, 2007 - 03:19pm PT
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Tarbuster said:
"There is a nice finger crack somewhere in the boulders behind C4 which is pretty moderate, for a boulder problem...Hell if I could say where it is; sorta in a tight cleft as I recall. "
Ok, I went and found this thing and climbed it yesterday. To reach it, head up the streambed that is the approach to the Camp 4 Wall. You will soon pass a bench/sofa made of stacked stones in the middle of the wash. Ten yards past this bench a large boulder blocks most of the streambed. After walking around this large boulder, take a right out of the streambed and head into the woods toward about 1:30. The boulder is in a sunny spot about 20 yards after you leave the streambed and the crack will be facing directly at you as you approach. With a careful eye you can see it through the trees right after you leave the streambed.
Crux is at the bottom, first knuckle jams with undercut and bad feet, opening to second knuckle locks with good feet. Has a pretty good/flat landing.
As a side note, I got a nice surprise when reaching into the jams just above the lip where the angle kicks back...a snake in the crack. A quick recitation of the "Red next to black, red next to yellow" rhymes confirmed that it was a king, not a coral and I could use the jam and top out instead of jumping off the damn thing.
Very nice problem, clean, moderate, straight up and straight-in, probably in the .10 range.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 26, 2007 - 03:24pm PT
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there are a lot of King snakes up around there... one in the base of the flake variation of Doggie Deviations...
"Well, I'm the Crawlin' King Snake
And I rule my den
I'm the Crawlin' King Snake
And I rule my den
Yeah, don't mess 'round with my mate
Gonna use her for myself
Caught me crawlin', baby, window
Grass is very high
Keep on crawlin' till the day I die..."
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