Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
|
|
Clint you are right. The 10d isn't the R part. Hardest runout climbing is probably only 10a, though It was awhile ago now and my memory is poor at best.
Urmas, I'm not surprised the first pitch or two were grass filled. I think they were headed that way when we did it. It gets better up higher. A sneak in from the should would be do able though missing some of the climbing would be a shame.
Jim have you ever climbed any of the routes on the west face of half dome? Left of snake dike aways. I've always thought those routes looked fun. The Flakes on Middle Cathedral could also be a good easy day outing with great views. Assuming you've done Yosemite Point buttress? That would be right up your alley!
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
Mikey I've done Blondike and Two Hoofers. They are left of snake dike. They are both quite fun!! In my opinion Blondike was the better of the two. I've actually done it twice its that fun.
Some of those older ones look fun too. More to do.
|
|
RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
|
|
Oh man... Just when I thought ST wasn't fun anymore, we get some contributions like these. Thanks!
Interesting stories about an intriguing line. I'll have to go up there check it out for myself.
|
|
G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
|
|
Did this one awhile ago with Peter Coward. I recall the R-ish stuff was on the lower pitches on easier climbing. The route is spectacular, especially on the upper pitches. Nice views across to the NW Face.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
Bump for "throwing some heels hooks on the arete while looking over the the whole NW face"
GLORIOUS!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Topo shows:
1. 5.7
2. 5.9
3. 5.10- crack, then face climbing above to switch cracks, apparently where the R is. So probably 5.9 or less at the R.
4. 5.10 crack/corner
5. 5.6
6. 5.6
(can approach from base of cables to intersect the route here)
7. 5.6
8. 5.9 fingers, right of arete
9. 5.9+ corner, 5.10d arete moves at bolt (or original aid to right)
10. 5.10b close to arete
11. 5.7 last pitch of NW face
|
|
ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
|
|
Awesome. Since you are already up there and you are gonna send the rig with lightening speed you may as well do the Final Exam as your warm up....
Everyone is gonna line up for this thing this summer and all the valley routes will have no traffic!
|
|
Jiggler
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2015 - 04:44pm PT
|
Don't want to spoil the adventure with excessive beta, but spotting the lonely bolt on the crux pitch can be difficult. The route was super fun and exciting, but definitely some loose rock. All of the critical holds/placements were dug out when the cracks are grassy, and that helped to confirm being on route.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2015 - 05:06pm PT
|
nice thread bump
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!