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| Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic |
Food Dog
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 11, 2004 - 05:56pm PT
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Has anyone climbed the north ridge of half dome? If so, where the hell does it start????? From the guidebook it is sure hard to tell - seems like it starts at the base of the wall east of the Regular Route????
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Bump for what looks like a fun adventure. Anybody done it? It is on the short list for next summer!
Below is a photo of the start. The NW face is around the corner to the right. What a beautiful line!
The ridge from higher up, on Sub Dome:
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pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
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yes please
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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I also keep this one high on the list. Seems really good. Think it gets an R, doesn't it?
Somewhere I read it was one of Mikey Schaefer's favorite obscurities.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Bump for climbing content. It's high on my to do list too.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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That looks like a interesting climb. Never knew of it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Hmmmm Studly, neither did I. Let's go do it.
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bob
climber
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Pretty sure Mikey Schaefer has done it. Guided it even? Maybe he has some info. Mikey do you even check in here any more?
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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I have indeed done it, though not while guiding. I thought it was a great route. definitely a bit heads up on one of the pitches up high. I don't have a Yose guide book with me right now so i can't say what pitch exactly. I just remember a tooth pick looiking piece of rocks that was a few feet high at least that you have to climb around and if it went it would fall onto the lower pitches of the regular. If this thing has fallen off or was trundled it would be a lot safer.
The crux pitch is truly spectacular. i remember throwing some heels hooks on the arete while looking over the the whole NW face. pretty sweet! It deserves to see some traffic!
And ya bob I'm a lurker still. just don't chime in unless I've actually got something useful to add.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mikey now I'm truly intigued. Is it the range of septuagenarian?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jim,
It's 5.10d R ***, 10 pitches. Only a couple of them are hard (don't have the topo at hand right now).
The heel hooks on the arete sound exciting!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Thanks. I needed to find something in Yosemite that I hadn't done but, here's the kicker, could still do. Seems to fit the bill.
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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I went up to do this once, got up far enough that "heel hooks on the arete" became apparent. we went home and had ice cream.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Hmmmm...I think I'm going to stretch myself.
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bob
climber
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Nice Mikey. I'm not sure where the notion that you guided it came from. Meadows summer myth probably originating from store parking lot time.............
I want to do that thing too!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Greg.
So since the 5.10d is protected, it should not be shown as 5.10d R,
but as 5.10d (5.10a R) (if for example the R section is 5.10a).
And as Mikey noted in his 2007 post, if the loose flake could be safely
trundled, it might not be R anymore.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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I tried to do it from the base a few years ago. We got turned around on the second pitch by dirt and grass filled cracks. It might be better to traverse in from the shoulder, and just do the upper half.
I remember Walt describing his lead on the crux pitch during the FA. It was one of those, "There I was...." stories that makes your hands sweat. But he liked the route so much, he went back and added a bolt. I'm sure it's still spicy.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Sometime in the early 70s I spent the night on HD.
At about 10pm this spaced out dude comes up to us raving about how he just free soloed a line right of the cables.
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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Clint you are right. The 10d isn't the R part. Hardest runout climbing is probably only 10a, though It was awhile ago now and my memory is poor at best.
Urmas, I'm not surprised the first pitch or two were grass filled. I think they were headed that way when we did it. It gets better up higher. A sneak in from the should would be do able though missing some of the climbing would be a shame.
Jim have you ever climbed any of the routes on the west face of half dome? Left of snake dike aways. I've always thought those routes looked fun. The Flakes on Middle Cathedral could also be a good easy day outing with great views. Assuming you've done Yosemite Point buttress? That would be right up your alley!
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bob
climber
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Mikey I've done Blondike and Two Hoofers. They are left of snake dike. They are both quite fun!! In my opinion Blondike was the better of the two. I've actually done it twice its that fun.
Some of those older ones look fun too. More to do.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Oh man... Just when I thought ST wasn't fun anymore, we get some contributions like these. Thanks!
Interesting stories about an intriguing line. I'll have to go up there check it out for myself.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Did this one awhile ago with Peter Coward. I recall the R-ish stuff was on the lower pitches on easier climbing. The route is spectacular, especially on the upper pitches. Nice views across to the NW Face.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Bump for "throwing some heels hooks on the arete while looking over the the whole NW face"
GLORIOUS!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topo shows:
1. 5.7
2. 5.9
3. 5.10- crack, then face climbing above to switch cracks, apparently where the R is. So probably 5.9 or less at the R.
4. 5.10 crack/corner
5. 5.6
6. 5.6
(can approach from base of cables to intersect the route here)
7. 5.6
8. 5.9 fingers, right of arete
9. 5.9+ corner, 5.10d arete moves at bolt (or original aid to right)
10. 5.10b close to arete
11. 5.7 last pitch of NW face
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Awesome. Since you are already up there and you are gonna send the rig with lightening speed you may as well do the Final Exam as your warm up....
Everyone is gonna line up for this thing this summer and all the valley routes will have no traffic!
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Jiggler
Trad climber
SoCal
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Oct 28, 2015 - 04:44pm PT
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Don't want to spoil the adventure with excessive beta, but spotting the lonely bolt on the crux pitch can be difficult. The route was super fun and exciting, but definitely some loose rock. All of the critical holds/placements were dug out when the cracks are grassy, and that helped to confirm being on route.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 28, 2015 - 05:06pm PT
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nice thread bump
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| Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic |
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