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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Jun 21, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
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bvb thats funny you think the first pitch of new d is the crux, for me it seems to be that spot on the second pitch where your just getting out of the chimney (5.10a i guess?)
sure hope arch opens early again, looking at all these pics makes me want to go up there and thrash around a bit
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jun 21, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
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It was an evening in fall of 74 or spring of 75, can't remember which. I was playing ping pong in the rec center across from camp 4. I was pretty good at the game having spent many a night playing professors at Chico state instead of studying in my lone year of college.Anyway one young guy, i'd call a kid (hell we were all kids), after repeated losses suggested that we do new d the next day. I gladly accepted, having previously worked hard to lead the first pitch, i was eager to do the stellar stuff above.He introduced himself by saying they call me "fingers".I led the second pitch (both of us opted to skip pitch 1) and got to a belay area just below the overhang leading to the base of the corner. Yabo screamed up his objections through various expletives and i obliged and stretched the rope to the base of the corner.Next up was "fingers" (Yabo) chance to shine and make up for his ping pong losses the night before by easily cruising the crux pitch.I followed barely making the crux. A great route indeed. I also remember getting an hysterical laugh when i came across the plastic gorilla wedged in Gripper in 74
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jun 21, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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I thought the first pitch of ND was 11a when I did it. Arch Rock rules. Always has made me feel like a Yosemite climber at the end of the day.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 21, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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I can never think of Arch Rock without being reminded of the quote from Roper's green guide:
The climbing as a whole is neither esthetic or enjoyable, it is merely difficult.
 Yvon Chounard
Well, at least I agree with the "difficult" part!
I later learned that Arch Rock is actually that thing you drive through after entering the park.
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Rick Linkert
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills CA
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Jun 22, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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John-
Vern, as you may recall, was diagnosed with a very aggresive brain tumor in the Spring of 2004. He underwent surgery at UCSF performed by Mitch Berger - one of a handful of people you would want to conduct your brain surgery - supported by a small army of geniuses. The surgery did not get everything and he underwent a Gamma Knife treatment in 2008. Today he is a walking miracle- not a cancer cell anywhere - a very unlkely result given the intial diagnosis. Never a complaint or Why me? Ever. He did the Muir Trail on skis while taking oral chemo - the guy is unbelievable. You can find him at www.vernclevenger.com; he still lives in Mammoth with his wife, Margaret. The kids are grown. I posted a few Vern Clevenger medical updates on Supertopo over the years. It is an amazing story.
I met Vern at Indian Rock when I was a junior at Berkeley; he was still in High School and just getting started. We have remained friends since. Climbing with him was a trip. When he was in a hurry, following him was like a deep water start on waterskis. When we did ND, I pitched on the top section; Vern did laps. You might remember almost getting a 4" bong in the mouth as you were pulling over the crux on the Center of Independence many years ago. The bong was the product of my fumbling on the final off width on the Independent Route that Vern tricked me into leading. I was terrified that it was going to take someone out as I knew there was a party on the Center Route. After the moment passed, I had to re-devote myself to the predicament I had created by dropping one of the last pieces of pro that had a chance of fitting.
Rick
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Jun 18, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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Here's to the Gripper ape chimneying up our finger crack and to the steep, tip of my little finger jam "you've gotta be kidding, this is supposed to be 10C!" lieback on English Breakfast Crack bump
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 18, 2013 - 10:56am PT
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My favorite single crag anywhere....not a single bad climb. It should be domed and climate controlled for year round climbing.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jun 18, 2013 - 11:38am PT
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I'm with Jim.
BTW, the Entrance Exam is practically always shady, New D goes in the shade by 11 once you clear the first pitch...I don't know what you're complaining about.
And mcT, great shot of Eliza's very focused look on ND. Glad to hear she's getting after it again.
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TeleRoss
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 18, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
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Love Arch Rock!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Feb 27, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
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Great pics, TeleRoss
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Feb 27, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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on day 6 God created Arch Rock and than took a day off
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Feb 27, 2014 - 11:45pm PT
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Alexey (or someone) please go climb there and think of me.
And if you're Dan bring that camera!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Feb 28, 2014 - 02:20am PT
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LoL
Funny sh#t Alexey. Good post.
I'd love to see pics of Torque Converter or Gold Finger on the right side of the cliff. After all these years I still have only my memory to draw from (fuzzy at best) of the day I spent on Torque, and looking over at Gold Finger. Both typical of Arch Rock....top f*#king shelf.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 28, 2014 - 02:46am PT
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Gripper with Eva, Feb. 2008 (from another thread):
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Feb 28, 2014 - 09:31am PT
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don't forget Axis / Blotto - one of my favorites at Arch
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Feb 28, 2014 - 09:32am PT
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I remember the early days, still in high school driving up and leading Gripper. We used to do the first pitch a lot. The Gorilla was there and I remember always using a #4 stopper on purple cord to protect right at the lip. This was some 40+ years ago. Amazing what you remember about certain routes.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 28, 2014 - 11:32am PT
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Even the lesser hyped stuff at Arch is quality. Like Supplication, never see anyone on it, but it's outstanding.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 28, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
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Depends on the crack. Large parts of the crag bake in the sun, and it's low elev for the valley.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
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Great shots of some great routes!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Feb 28, 2014 - 04:40pm PT
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Ken Ariza, I'll take photos of Torque Converter or Gold Finger next time I'll go there.
WML, I would not be worry about Friday-Suturday rain - it will dry in less than two hours.
I would worry more about birds. They probably close Arch Rock again on March1 due to falcons nesting.
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