le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
Great thread on a great route.
Clint wrote:
The 5.10a thin rating might be a bit of a sandbag. It was pullups on fingerlocks without much for the feet, and I have small fingers. I think my partner was saying something more like 5.10c. But the Meyers + Reid topos say 5.9 there, so I didn't want to bump it up too much. There is an even thinner crack just 3' left with a pin scar which I tried to climb at first, but it was even harder.
When we did this finish (11 right from Clint's pics above), we didn't realize there was a second crack out of view climber's right. So we both tried like hell on the pin-scarred thinner/harder crack.
Finally Nutjob got it. Pulling up the thin crack itself isn't too hard, but then you have to do a committing mantel @ solid .10. If you blow it, you and your ankles will go back to the ledge. Better to step further right and find the .10b fingers.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Arrowhead Spire/Arete is a must do if you haven't done it. Shitty approach, but worth it I think. NEB is great though. Have not done a better route in Yos. Liked it more than Serenity/SOY link up to be honest.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!