Photo...is this the "right" way at the top of NE Buttress?

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le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
May 2, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
Great thread on a great route.

Clint wrote:
The 5.10a thin rating might be a bit of a sandbag. It was pullups on fingerlocks without much for the feet, and I have small fingers. I think my partner was saying something more like 5.10c. But the Meyers + Reid topos say 5.9 there, so I didn't want to bump it up too much. There is an even thinner crack just 3' left with a pin scar which I tried to climb at first, but it was even harder.

When we did this finish (11 right from Clint's pics above), we didn't realize there was a second crack out of view climber's right. So we both tried like hell on the pin-scarred thinner/harder crack.

Finally Nutjob got it. Pulling up the thin crack itself isn't too hard, but then you have to do a committing mantel @ solid .10. If you blow it, you and your ankles will go back to the ledge. Better to step further right and find the .10b fingers.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
May 2, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Man, it's like we're dancing around the Internet together. This thread caught my attention again, I was trying to find where we actually went, and lo and behold le_bruce is a step ahead of me :)

Upper part of Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock. The way we ...
Upper part of Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock. The way we went one time.
Credit: nutjob

Here's a pic looking back after pulling that mantel onto a higher slab:


My attentive belayer:


And it links back into a speedier path where people behind us passed us:


And this is where that path pops out on top:


I love that summit. Looking in any direction, new dreams are born. Here was the seed for another adventure:



I can't believe it's been 3 years since my last lap up there. Now my dilemma is whether to revisit such fun climbs or go explore something new, during the limited time windows I'll have there.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 2, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
Arrowhead Spire/Arete is a must do if you haven't done it. Shitty approach, but worth it I think. NEB is great though. Have not done a better route in Yos. Liked it more than Serenity/SOY link up to be honest.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 2, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
In the "Route Beta" section for the NE Buttress"
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/route_beta.php%3Fr%3Dyohcnort
I have a better photo overlay, which shows the many finish options:

I've done it via the yellow line way every time except once, when I used the green/dark blue.
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