Photo...is this the "right" way at the top of NE Buttress?

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rick

Social climber
california
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 21, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
Random question...I am wondering if someone can tell me if this is the "normal" way most people finish NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral. I've done it several times, and always this way, but last time I was on it, a climber I've seen in the magazines shouted over from the 5.hard roof to the right 'hey you guys aren't going the right way...'.

From above the top climber we go over the awkward crack above and right, and then up an unprotected 5.6 gully, cross left to a tree and then up a 20 foot OW. I like this way fine but I am curious is there another fun way I should try?

Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 21, 2007 - 11:29pm PT
I did the route in like '88/'89 and recall a fairly sustained hand/wide hand crack that abruptly ended on a flat summit ledge w/ a good horizontal anchor crack. The above hand crack was in a r-facing corner.
ZAllen

Social climber
the dirty south
Mar 21, 2007 - 11:43pm PT
I took the same route you describe, but linked the pitches differently. I wonder if the other way is better?
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 21, 2007 - 11:44pm PT
The only way I've finished it is up a long pitch that goes chimney to a slabby step over to a steep hand/fist crack. You're pretty much done there except for a couple 5th class moves over some bulges/boulders to get to the shoe down spot. I don't recognize that bush.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 21, 2007 - 11:55pm PT
There are at least 3 fun ways to go there. 3 are shown in the Reid topo. One way is shown in the supertopo.

1. If you stay left in the corner, you do the 5.9 wide hands crack which ends abruptly at the ledge Ray described.

2. If you follow the straight crack on the right wall when it diverges from the corner, that becomes a 5.10? ow which nobody does.

3. Instead, when it goes wide you can climb up over a 4' block and down the other side to a belay ledge. Here you can climb a 5.10a finger crack to a dead tree and then a short wide crack above. Or you can go right from the dead tree into the 5.6 corner/gully, with a short squeeze (not ow) near the its top. It sounds like you traversed right from the ledge to the corner/gully, if you don't remember the 5.10a finger crack. I can put up a photo of my partner on this ledge if you think it will help.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 22, 2007 - 12:00am PT
Clint I think a photo would be cool..
rick

Social climber
california
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2007 - 12:18am PT
Thanks for the responses and I am trying to make the three options Clint describes jibe with my memory of the pitch. So the point I am at when taking the photo is (for those with access to the supertopo) at what I think maybe around the alternate belay between belay stations 9 and 10 or maybe at 10.

Perhaps I don't go as far to the left on the previous traverse pitch and miss another corner system farther that way. I don't know but there is definitely not a 10a finger crack and I think it is an OW and not a squeeze but my memory could be faulty. Hmm maybe I will have to do it again and try a new finish, usually by that point I am like a horse to water though and go the route I know.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 22, 2007 - 12:28am PT
All I can recall is a winding mostly horizontal lead from the top of the main dihedral circuitously left, until I looked up and saw a clear way to the top. I recall a tiny 5.8 finger crack move to get to the belay stance - through trees to a cozy spot - for the final pitch.

That was a good day.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 22, 2007 - 12:37am PT
It's been a while, but I remember traversing left around a corner to a hidden weakness, climbing up passing a good sized scrub oak, up a ramp leading left to a steep corner with a squeeze/offwidth crack that takes you to easier ground.

One of my favorite Valley routes.

Anybody who ain't done it ain't no real Valley climber.

Anybody that don't walk to the summit (one of the Valley's best views) afterward ain't no real mountaineer.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 22, 2007 - 12:41am PT
RE:

"Anybody who ain't done it ain't no real Valley climber."

there ya have it.
WBraun

climber
Mar 22, 2007 - 01:23am PT
I wanna do it sometime.
Mike Dahlquist

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 22, 2007 - 01:39am PT
"You guys aren't going the right way"....priceless.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 22, 2007 - 02:04am PT
Don't forget the rope Werner.

And the brass plate.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Mar 22, 2007 - 02:21am PT

Rick - we did it exactly as you describe. What a route, men, what a route.

Clint, I'd like to see that photo as well, for next time.
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Mar 22, 2007 - 02:25am PT
pretty cool on that route how every time you get to wondering how a section is gonna unfold for you, it turns out there is a(nother) glory jug
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 22, 2007 - 04:49am PT
I believe Rick's photo shows the belay at a bush partway up pitch 11, before the finish variations diverge. But it might be the corner with ow above (9), which Kelly and others have gone up. I don't recall if there was a small bush or not above (10), but probably there is not a bush above (10) if Melissa doesn't remember it either. (all pitch numbers relative to the topo below)


full topo


finish options

photos from November 18, 2006
This time we belayed at (8), (9A) and (11) right. Previously I've belayed at (10) and (11) left.


morning sun, p3


p5 traverse


downward section of p5


starting the main corner, p6


belay (6), halfway up the V-slot


escape from the squeeze, p7


steep 5.9+ moves starting p8


message partway up p8


starting the traverse to exit cracks, p9


Darko leading 5.8 section above (9A)


belay ledge at (11), right side finish variation
BadInfluence

Mountain climber
Dak side
Mar 22, 2007 - 08:44am PT
Clint,

How does the guy in the climbing photos like his climbing shoes? looks like the 5.10 pitons.
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Mar 22, 2007 - 09:32am PT
That '10a thin' felt pretty bouldery when we did it...prolly just tired...I think our topo had the middle "OW" listed at 5.8, too.
Timmc

climber
East Kootenays B.C.
Mar 22, 2007 - 10:48am PT
Not sure about the right way, but photos brought back terrific memories.
My girlfriend (now wife ) and I were on that ledge heading towards the slot when Derek Hersey (sp)
passed us grinning, hair all over, super tight Fire's (he must have had narrow feet). I remember asking him for beta on where to go and he shrugged and said it was his first time on the route.
From the the OW thing he yelled down 'bloody brilliant!', then climbed out of sight.

He was right.

This musta been around 1988.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Mar 22, 2007 - 10:55am PT
Referencing the topos above, I once went straight up the corner
above P9.

It didn't turn out so good...
piquaclimber

Trad climber
Durango
Mar 22, 2007 - 11:06am PT
That looks like the finish we climbed. Nice pictures Clint.

Also, if you think pitch 6 is 5.9, you really are a Valley climber.

Brad
scooter

climber
B loop site 15
Mar 22, 2007 - 11:10am PT
Werner-

Lets put together a big ole' pin rack and do some training. I think we can do it with 2 bivies. I am up to the challenge.

Patrick
raymond phule

climber
Mar 22, 2007 - 11:22am PT
"Also, if you think pitch 6 is 5.9, you really are a Valley climber."

Thought pitch 6 was normal 5.9 but pich 7... 5.14? I couldn't understand how to move at all in that squeeze chimney.

Ok, it was my first squeeze and I still cant climb them but 5.8?

I think we decided on the ledge below the corner who should lead which 5.9 pitch. I didn't know what squeeze stood for on the topo but opted for the first one. I sure was happy about that choice at the top of pitch 7 :-)
piquaclimber

Trad climber
Durango
Mar 22, 2007 - 11:43am PT
raymond,

you're right... I meant pitch 7.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 22, 2007 - 12:58pm PT
Brad,

Yeah the p7 5.8 squeeze is not easy. The first time I did it, I couldn't figure out how to exit it. I was grabbing these ridiculous sloping crimps on the arete of the flake on the left side, but unable to pull up on them. My strength was giving out and I was about to do the "controlled ooze" back down the chimney, when I inadvertantly squeezed the right side flake with my thighs to "slow my descent". But that manuver held me securely and let me rest my arms! Soon I was doing short pullups on the sloping crimps and moving the thigh pinch up... victory. This time it seemed pretty friendly - I used a diagonal body position so I could use my knees, plus a chicken wing, to reach the thigh pinch. The fixed pins for pro on the right wall are pretty friendly, too.

I'm glad the photos bring some good memories! (Maybe a few epic memories as well!).
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 22, 2007 - 01:15pm PT
Great photos...brings back a flood of memories - like the smell of bay trees. I recall the belay spot before the traverse to exit as being a really cool place.

Thank you very much for taking the time to post them.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 22, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
426,

The 5.10a thin rating might be a bit of a sandbag. It was pullups on fingerlocks without much for the feet, and I have small fingers. I think my partner was saying something more like 5.10c. But the Meyers + Reid topos say 5.9 there, so I didn't want to bump it up too much. There is an even thinner crack just 3' left with a pin scar which I tried to climb at first, but it was even harder.

I encourage everyone to give it a few more laps, and try out all the finishes!

Thanks, Ray - I added a couple more shots.

I updated the topo of the alternative finishes to put approximate ratings on the ows (none of which I have climbed).
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Mar 22, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
as i recall i stopped at "11" because the alternative was bouldering the "10a thin" w/ rope drag (pulling over the edge of that ledge) and no reasonable exectation that if i fell i'd be kept off that ledge. we went right, but i have never been sure if that was "going the wrong way"....
WBraun

climber
Mar 22, 2007 - 02:42pm PT
Clint

Those are great photos of the route. The Northeast Buttress of HC is such a all time beautiful classic.

One of my all time favorites.
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Mar 22, 2007 - 02:54pm PT
Between p8 and p9 (on the photo of the topo) you can wander down and left (through a bush with rope drag) or go up the 4" 5.7. My parnter and I used to go down and left. We now go up the 4" and like it much better. It starts narrower than 4" and gets wider as you go. You can push a cam up depending on how big of cam you brought (a #4 friend for a ways is ok or a new #4 camalot works better). This is much cleaner and quicker than the alternate route.
durban

climber
Mar 22, 2007 - 03:33pm PT
A fine view indeed! The hike to the top is a must.



This is my euro friend showing me the euro way. He did pretty much the whole pitch like this.




The first time I did the route, my partner and I went left, I believe before the point in the picture in the first post, and I think we ended up with a short section of wide fingers and then two pitches of wide hands/fist. My second time was with the guy stemming the chimney, and I think we took the way straight up the line in the first post. I thought it was harder, certainly more awkward and strenuous. It was my partner's first weekend of a two-month stay in the Valley, and he went on to onsight the Rostrum, Astroman, Freestone, the Chouinard Herbert, and the Glowering Spot, and he still doesn't say that day on NE buttress was easy!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 22, 2007 - 03:53pm PT
I did it in April 2004, finally, and am still not sure how what we did at the top fits in with the topos. It may be the second from left line that's marked, without further information.

Pitches 6 - 8 were full value - Valley 5.9. We went left at the top of the main corner, as on the topo, but not far enough. Then straight up another corner for nearly two pitches. It got harder at the top (5.9?), and deadended at a roof and dirt. We then went left again a bit, to a tree you could sit in, at the base of a short offwidth. There was a clean corner/handcrack left of this point, starting well below where we were. It's probably the left hand variation on the topo - if you keep traversing left low down, you get to its base. Anyway, the offwidth is only a few moves, perhaps 15 m total, then eases off and ends at a long flat ledge. We moved left on this past the top of the corner, then up a short pitch of face climbing that quickly eased off to the top.
rick

Social climber
california
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2007 - 04:05pm PT
Great pictures! Thanks. I think I see now that I have always gone up the corner straight above "Belay 9". The crack at the top of my first picture is what I think you indicate as possible 10 OW ? and its fun but really awkward and involved much thrashing for about 5 feet, so much rumbing against the corner that I knocked my #2 camalot off my harness once (found hanging in the bushes at the base, no worse for the wear...).

I dont recall the tree at the base of the top 5.8 OW being dead, but it could have been.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 22, 2007 - 08:32pm PT
I did it ages ago with a friend of a friend named Len from Jackson WY. Nobody called it anything but 5.9 back then. I don't think I've ever breathed as hard on a pitch as I did on that 5.8 squeeze, sweet blubbering jeebus. Len and I didn't really know each other, and we got a late start. A ways up, something about the 5.9 flare gave me the willies, and I bagged on the pitch, made Len lead two pitches back to back, which I think made him quite peeved with me.

Higher up, it got darker and darker, and as we reached the belay bush shown as #9 on the topo above, it started to rain. I led up the corner straight above, the one that k-man didn't enjoy either. It seemed like a good idea at the time because I could see a fixed piece with a white sling way way up there. It felt tough and dirty, getting slimier as the rain picked up, and Len began shouting up at me "c'mon, what's taking so long, hurry up, it's getting dark." I finally reached the fixed piece, long before having realized that this really wasn't the way everyone went.

Turned out the piece was one of these round knurled peck nuts with a white sling that once was a dark purple. I clipped the frightful thing anyway and had to make some grim lichenish leftward face traverse running with water, finally heaving my quivering body onto a decent ledge that was clearly on route again. Len's agitation diminished as he followed the pitch, with ample tension and a pendulum to skip the face climbing. His terse but polite "good lead" made it clear I had redeemed myself from my earlier display of weakness.

At the top, the sun was only showing half it's disk as it dropped over the horizon. Thoroughly trashed, we barreled down the hill and into darkness, using that sketchy navigation trick of using the greater night vision capability of peripheral vision by not looking directly at where you're going. We finally tumbled onto the road, loaded into the car, and made straight for the Four Seasons and a splendid dinner with ample drinks. I wish I could say it was the start of a beautiful friendship, but our ways parted, and I think I heard awhile ago that he'd died in an avalanche.

It'd be fun to go back up that thing with an earlier start, and maybe a few cams on the rack would be a welcome addition, but all that 5.10 on the topo makes it look much harder than it used to be.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 23, 2007 - 12:52am PT
If you're climbing 5.10 up there, you're not going the easiest way. That's one of the beauties of that route.

It's a routefinding challenge in addition to it's test of all climbing techniques.

I regret not soloing it when I was young and foolish enough...
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Mar 23, 2007 - 01:10am PT
Durban, I'm a big fan of the Euro way. Thanks for that mungie pic.

Edit: removed THAT pic too - I'm such a dipsh*t tool I put up the wrong images. My bad!

Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 23, 2007 - 01:13am PT
Fosberg and Deucy should post on the epic solo-trains of the mid/late 80's.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 23, 2007 - 05:38am PT
BadInfluence asked about Darko's shoes (5.10 Pitons). Here's Darko's reply:

I've heard very good things about them (they are 5.10 pitons).
Just about everyone liked them, they swore by their edging, smearing, etc.
I personally don't like them as much. I think the rubber that is supposed to help foot jams on the front just gets my foot stuck,
the edging is not as good and they aren't as comfortable as they are supposed to be for an all day shoe.
On the other hand, I must admit that I got size 9.5 despite the fact that the recommendation was for the street shoe size, 10 in my case.

Rick, the tree died recently. It still had dead leaves on it last November.
I modified the topo again to put "5.9? sustained" in the corner above (9), and to shorten the 5.8 ow; also to indicate it is a right facing corner.

Greg, none of the 5.10 in the topo above is mandatory.
I added "(var.)" to the right side variation at the start of p8.
I'm sure most people go straight above the belay, but I forced it right my first time up, because the Meyers topo said it was 5.8 that way.
It was a 5.10 finger traverse with my feet on glass just to leave the belay that way....
rick

Social climber
california
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2007 - 11:09am PT
Clint-

I like your evolving topo! So if indeed that corner is the one we do (and I think it is) then you might want to ammend it to say 5.9 awk followed by 5.6 no pro (unless you haul a #5 camalot up there, that would probably fit) It's stair stepped gully with a wide smooth crack in places. Its not too hard, but at the end of a long day and because the pro is so good on the rest of the route, it felt scary to me.

Rick
Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Mar 26, 2007 - 07:58pm PT
The only way I’ve ever climbed it is to go straight up that corner. That seems to be a natural line and very much in keeping with the character of the route. But now I think I’ll also check out one of those finishes on the left as well.

What Rick just said sounds about right for the corner. I’ve never thought the pitch runout although perhaps it is on the easier bits. I use one each of #3.5, #4, and #5 Friends. The number 5 Friend is good if you do the splitter ow pitch down lower. And on this final corner there is one awkward bulge that is #5 Friend size. I wouldn’t suggest anything bigger.

If Wild Bill would remove his pictures of Middle Cathedral—they are the wrong rock and too big for dial up—this thread would be a nice one to link into the beta page for the NEB. How about it, Bill?

Oh, but a good picture of Higher Cathedral showing this route taken from the Lower Spire would be cool if anybody had one of those.
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Mar 26, 2007 - 11:06pm PT
Took out the big pic
Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Mar 28, 2007 - 07:43pm PT
Thanks, Bill.

Now lets see if remember how to do the links...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 29, 2007 - 12:38am PT
North East Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock taken from Upper Cathedral Spire

Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 29, 2007 - 12:41am PT
Ed that image rocks! Thanks.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 29, 2007 - 01:35am PT
here is a blow up of the upper section... a little fuzzy..
someone who knows the route well should mark the route...

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 29, 2007 - 01:44am PT
Perhaps the route description should be something like "From the top of the main corner, traverse left on a quartzy band on flakes and cracks past the base of one corner, then left and up to a second corner which has a tree at its base. (5.8) Climb that corner for 1 1/2 pitches (5.8+) to a roomy ledge just below the top."

It could even say "Alternatively, climb the first corner for a pitch and a half (5.10-), then move left 5 m to a tree at the base of a clean wide crack. Climb that crack, which quickly eases off, for 15 m to the roomy ledge."

I wonder if anyone has stayed in the main corner right to the top? That would be some diretissima!
WBraun

climber
Mar 29, 2007 - 01:50am PT
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 29, 2007 - 02:07am PT
Thanks Werner, and Ed - an excellent picture, and topo. Now that I see it, I know what we did, and where we should have gone.

One of the nice things about the route are that there are options, all of which are feasible, though some are harder than others.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Mar 29, 2007 - 02:13am PT
Werner might remember this:

I'm suckered into doing the NEBoH with Larry Zulim. He tells me it is about a 15 minute approach, so I go. We take off pretty late and have no topo. Neither of us have done the route before. So we are going about our business up there and then we see a guy catching us fast.... while we are lost and looking for the start of some pitch up there, Werner on the freesolo comes by, tells us we are gonna get lost for sure, and says he will leave a chalked "hand slap" for us at the start of each pitch..... he disappears and then we carry on, looking for and finding a big ass chalk imprint of his hand at the start of each pitch. Easy route finding after that. Got down well before dark.
WBraun

climber
Mar 29, 2007 - 02:23am PT
Hahahaha LOL
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Mar 29, 2007 - 02:30am PT
that's too cool

wash away in the next rain, but like a free guided trip by Werner.

:)
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 29, 2007 - 03:09am PT
I recall going from the top of the main dihedral past the X,
up the little 5.8 to the spot above the tree in one pitch - bit of rope drag not bad.

Sure most do it the way it's marked above.

Neat photos.

Hey Werner, anyone do those two major shallow crack/corners that shoot up left and parallel the main NE Buttress dihedral?
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Mar 29, 2007 - 09:46am PT
Hey Clint, thanks for the beta...I think we went the worst way possible. My partner, who was pretty solid through 10, needed a winch TR for that 'little' move. Mebbe should have looked around more.
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Mar 29, 2007 - 12:12pm PT
"He tells me it is about a 15 minute approach" Hahahahahahaha, hope you kicked his ass later for that one.

Wish Werner was around for us - we finished the last three pitches in the rain. It was an absolute wrestling match to stay on/in the rock (with a pack, of course, probably the reason we ended up be-nighted).

Based on the topo, for the last pitch we went right, figuring we could get some aid placements if we needed them. But the Meyers/Reid topo back then showed the first thin crack as '5.9-' and it seemed harded than that. Could have been the rain, though.
Mimi

climber
Mar 31, 2007 - 01:44am PT
Really Werner, wish you were on our heels too. That was one of my first Valley long routes. What a classic. Didn't bring enough water and baked, tricky rookie route finding, got benighted on the descent but had a fun night sleeping at the base with a small fire. We luckily had water and some food as we were totally parched. Comfortable night considering it was a minor epic. I've never been that thirsty before.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 17, 2007 - 08:18pm PT
Joe (jghedge) commented:

> Some guy from Argentina(?) bought the farm on that 20' off-width finish as I recall, it's easy to blow it there at the end of a long day and you might not have the right sized gear...

Probably you are referring to Gustavo Brillembourg, who died after he fell nearly 100' on pitch 11 in October 1993. He was a college classmate of mine and originally from Venezuela. There is a nice article about him (with some accident details) by Susan E.B. Schwartz titled "Why Do People Climb?"

http://www.newpaltznation.com/Shwartz-WhyClimbing.htm
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 17, 2007 - 08:25pm PT
any thoughts on this unfortunate accident?
WBraun

climber
Apr 17, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
Ray

He fell and died. It was time to go.

I was on the ledge with him waiting for the body bag and recovery litter. The meat bees were already starting the process on his body.

He had a peaceful expression on his face.

Tragic ...........
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 17, 2007 - 08:39pm PT
wow.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 27, 2007 - 03:05pm PT
In May I felt "further research" was needed (like Werner said, "looks nice, I should try it sometime"!)

Chris Chan following the nice 5.9 hand crack on p11 (standard left side finish):



and a slightly revised topo showing the different finish options:

le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
May 2, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
Great thread on a great route.

Clint wrote:
The 5.10a thin rating might be a bit of a sandbag. It was pullups on fingerlocks without much for the feet, and I have small fingers. I think my partner was saying something more like 5.10c. But the Meyers + Reid topos say 5.9 there, so I didn't want to bump it up too much. There is an even thinner crack just 3' left with a pin scar which I tried to climb at first, but it was even harder.

When we did this finish (11 right from Clint's pics above), we didn't realize there was a second crack out of view climber's right. So we both tried like hell on the pin-scarred thinner/harder crack.

Finally Nutjob got it. Pulling up the thin crack itself isn't too hard, but then you have to do a committing mantel @ solid .10. If you blow it, you and your ankles will go back to the ledge. Better to step further right and find the .10b fingers.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
May 2, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Man, it's like we're dancing around the Internet together. This thread caught my attention again, I was trying to find where we actually went, and lo and behold le_bruce is a step ahead of me :)

Upper part of Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock. The way we ...
Upper part of Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock. The way we went one time.
Credit: nutjob

Here's a pic looking back after pulling that mantel onto a higher slab:


My attentive belayer:


And it links back into a speedier path where people behind us passed us:


And this is where that path pops out on top:


I love that summit. Looking in any direction, new dreams are born. Here was the seed for another adventure:



I can't believe it's been 3 years since my last lap up there. Now my dilemma is whether to revisit such fun climbs or go explore something new, during the limited time windows I'll have there.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 2, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
Arrowhead Spire/Arete is a must do if you haven't done it. Shitty approach, but worth it I think. NEB is great though. Have not done a better route in Yos. Liked it more than Serenity/SOY link up to be honest.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 2, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
In the "Route Beta" section for the NE Buttress"
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/route_beta.php%3Fr%3Dyohcnort
I have a better photo overlay, which shows the many finish options:

I've done it via the yellow line way every time except once, when I used the green/dark blue.
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