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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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All of the routes at Valhalla can be done with a single 60 Meter rope. Certainly a 70 M rope will work as well but all of the routes there will work fine on a single 60.
Bring at least a single rack of cams to 3" and a few medium nuts. For the routes on the North side of the creek, especially the Herb Dihedral (5.10d), double cams from 3/4" to 3" is nice plus a 3.5 or 4" cam as well.
There is a nice route I established to the left of the Herb Dihedral called Viking Funeral (5.11b) that also needs cams to 3" to supplement to 5 or so bolts.
Most of the other routes there need only quickdraws but as a word of caution, the 5.11c route to the immediate left of the 5.10b warm-up Kris mentioned is missing the last hanger and a wired nut to cinch on the stud is necessary to use this bolt.
I will most likely be in the area this coming weekend so if anybody wants to meet up, let me know.
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craig morris
Trad climber
la
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Cherry Hill rd. is open to Poison meadow creek as of last Saturday.Salmon creek is raging.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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mooch
is that for real-i browsed and found nothing on airbnb?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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It weren’t too hard to fine, evin fur mee...
It lukes evin betta insighed!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Sounds like you can get to Ponderosa from Kernville. It's just the Lloyd Meadow road that's closed at this point (and the Needles road).
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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It was not open on Sat.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Awesome place Mooch. We like to visit Kern too at least once a year. We usually like to camp right by the river at Limestone campground but might have to see if your AirBNB is open next time we go.
How is the home sales and prices in that area? Would love to find a house in that area some day.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2019 - 08:50am PT
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Hey, mooch...I'm going to be in Kernville next Tues-Wed teaching a class for some of the river guiding companies there. I'll arrive late Monday afternoon, get things set up, then probably be at KRBC for dinner.
My girlfriend will be with me- we are hoping to do some cragging on Thursday, so I'd like to get some more beta. Can I pick your brain over a beer on Monday night?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 14, 2019 - 09:19am PT
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I cannot edit my previous post regarding the length of ropes needed at Valhalla so I am posting again to say that a single 60 M rope is too short. A 70 M is necessary.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 14, 2019 - 02:08pm PT
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Thanks Bill. I wasn't gonna argue with you, I just figured my memory was foggy. But I kinda recall on a couple, maybe that Valkyries thing and another, being a bit long for one 60M cord.
edit:
so I'd like to get some more beta
Here's some good beta. Watch out for poison oak.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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May 14, 2019 - 04:11pm PT
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And Ticks!
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tbailey
Trad climber
canoga park
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May 15, 2019 - 05:06am PT
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Limestone cave is in good shape now, but I am not. Cave is best in the morning or late afternoon, sun can be brutal.Draws still up a couple of weeks ago. Thank you,whoever! Headed back up today, but looks like rain Thursday..
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2019 - 10:20am PT
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Bump for beers at KRBC with mooch!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 16, 2019 - 10:53am PT
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A -
Back on the radar......we'll be here this weekend. I have someone staying at my Airbnb until Saturday. But that won't stop us from swapping stories and beta. I can meet you over the weekend or wait until Monday after 5PM. Name yer poison.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2019 - 10:57am PT
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I'll arrive in Kville Monday evening...should be at KRBC by around 6:30-7. Tall guy, dark hair...prolly have my pup with me. See you there!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 16, 2019 - 11:01am PT
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Ok. Sounds good. I'll be looking for you. i'll be wearing a black LAFC ball cap and sporting an ever greying beard.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 16, 2019 - 02:26pm PT
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@ dirt claud -
Thanks! I really like my place too! I'm actually situated 3 miles north of Kernville, in the little hamlet of Riverkern, just before the Tulare County line. I was fortunate enough to have friends that worked at the brewery and told me they were selling their place. I had been looking for a couple of months and wasn't finding anything I liked. When I finally had a chance to see their place, I fell in love with it. It's got potential for additions and I want to do something with the front.
As far as property sales go around Kernville, its small town sales. The folks here are fairly embedded. My place.....1565 sq ft/.43 acre.......$195K. The insurance here is a bit higher since its in R2 fire zone country. We've seen a number of fires in the past 3 years. I like that my places is just a mile and a half from Kern Slab and New Directions. ;)
And if you are considering property here in the Kern River Valley, Kernville is truly the place to be. Based on my experience living here in KRV, you want to stay clear of Bodfish, Lake Isabella, South Lake and Squirrel Valley. Meth is a big problem , along with burglary/break-ins. Wofford Heights has a similar issue but not as much. Their problem is that they are in prime fire country. They are situated in a "siphon draw", with Alta Sierra being the conduit and source of dead timber. I'd steer clear of that area. I've been hearing from friends that they are having a hard time finding insurance that will take them on.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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May 16, 2019 - 02:29pm PT
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Local climbing buddy just messaged the Lloyd Meadow road is open.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 16, 2019 - 02:48pm PT
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There ya go! White Punks On Dope!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 16, 2019 - 07:45pm PT
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Even better than White Punks is is the uber classic Emperor crack. The entire tier with Emperor and the Aurora routes, Ewok, etc... are super fun. I strongly recommend that anyone who likes steep granite to visit this place before it gets hot.
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