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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 28, 2019 - 07:25am PT
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Thinking about being in the Kernville area over the next few weeks...
Got any beta on local cragging in the area?
Probably won't get out to the Needles, but interested in the abundance of crags in the vicinity.
What's the best guidebook for the area? Does it exist?
Other online sources of beta?
Mucho appreciado!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 28, 2019 - 11:31am PT
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I'll second Valhalla. Mostly vertical bolted face climbs, like sport only different. Generally, the bolting is a little sporty, and if there's gear placements you probably won't find a bolt. Also, most of the climbs are longer than 30M, so two 60M ropes are good. I can't say if a 70 will work. In any case you won’t get standard 30M sport lower offs on some of the climbs. You can expect bolt anchors on top. The routes are on the hard side and tend to be enduro. The standard warm-up is a 5.10 just about at the center of the right-hand wall; several bolts, good gear as well. It's obviously the easiest one on that wall.
It's in a canyon cut by Salmon Creek, and there's a waterfall. It should be pretty nice in there right about now. It's not far from town either.
Hit me up at kristian underscore solem at verizon dot net and I'll send you the driving/approach beta. I don't wanna have Kernville locals gunning for me because I posted it on the web. :-)
Also, Herb Laeger made a mini guide for several of the roadside crags just north of town. New Directions Cliff doesn't look like much from the road, but it has a good variety of fun routes on choice granite. That guide should be available at one of the outdoor sports shops in town there.
It looks like daytime temps are high 70's/low 80's there now. Valhalla is cool and shady, and somewhat air conditioned by the waterfall. The roadside crags north of town are full sun.
edit: There are also some more recently developed areas east toward Walker Pass. The two I've visited are good, but your best bet for beta is to call out Levy or Medusa (Is he going by Jeff Constine these days?) Are either of those guys still even here? Constine / Medusa would make an obvious target for banning (sorry Jeff;-) They can set you straight.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2019 - 12:41pm PT
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That’s great beta, Ksolem...thank you.
I should have specified we’ll be looking at a much more moderate range...5.6 - 5.10, sport, gear, or TR. Still, Valhalla sounds intriguing enough to go explore, anyway.
I will probably follow up with an email later- I appreciate whatever is offered.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Apr 28, 2019 - 02:41pm PT
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well kris, if this site gets trimmed back to a bloody stump, that post should survive
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 28, 2019 - 05:13pm PT
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Check out Valhalla just to see it. The 5.10 route I mentioned is really good, even if it's the only thing you do in there. It's easy to spot. It's about halfway up the right hand wall as you walk in, and I think it's the only route on the face with significant crack systems. About 5.10b. Super safe with some gear to augment the bolts.
There is lot's to do in the grades you're looking for at Kern Slabs and New Directions. The slab is pretty low angle. Funny story though, Ron Carson put up a route there on a very polished streak. I went there with a better climber than I, and we threw ourselves at it all afternoon. It really feels like sh*t to fail on something that looks like you should be able to walk up it.
Give Sierra South Mountain Sports a call to see if they have copies of Herb's Guide. The title is Kernville Rock Climbs, New Directions Cliffs and Kern Slab. (800) 457-2082.
If they don't have it, I have some copies. Maybe I can get one to you.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 28, 2019 - 05:56pm PT
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LOL Solom, nothing to see in the WP ha ha hehe~
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2019 - 07:05pm PT
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Ksolem, thank you again. Valhalla sounds very intriguing, if only to see the canyon and falls.
I actually know Tom Moore with Sierra South- I will reach out to him about Herb’s guide.
This should be a very good time of year to explore an area that has always been of interest, but I’ve never seemed to find the time to dive in.
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Matt Sarad
climber
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Apr 28, 2019 - 08:11pm PT
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Valhalla is indeed a magical place.
Herb’s new guide fills in the blanks at the Kern Slabs. Weather is nice now. Early morning starts reward with cool granite. Later on it gets hot.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 29, 2019 - 06:22am PT
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The moderates at the Slabs, New Directions, Book Rock, etc, are all good, but they are indeed about to start baking very soon if not already too hot. They get sun most of the day and make good cold season climbing.
BAd
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Apr 29, 2019 - 10:45am PT
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Valhalla
Nope. With the recent warm up, Salmon Creek is raging back there. Most of the routes are wet from the spray. I went basck there yesterday.....'Assault and Battery' and the 5.8 to the right of it are doable.
It did cool down a bit today but temps will return this coming weekend. If you're coming during this week, New Directions and the Kern Slab will be good. Best to hit up both in the morning when the temps are cool.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106278927/kernville-rock-aka-kern-slabs
The Great Divide Hwy is OPEN. I was told that you can get back to Dome Rock. The Needles is a no-go (as far as the dirt road goes). Lots of snow and felled trees. Your'e best bet if you want to climb there is to go up from the bottom to Voodoo and do White Punks.
Hit me up apogee........I live a little over a mile from the slabs. a few new routes there as well.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 29, 2019 - 11:09am PT
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With the recent warm up, Salmon Creek is raging back there.
Cool. I may have to come up and get back there with my camera. It's still to early season for the sun to make the place glow late in the day?
Did they get Lloyd Meadows Rd to Voodoo open now?
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2019 - 11:18am PT
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More great beta! Thanks, mooch.
I've got the Slabs & New Directions guide all lined up- that will help. Checked out the MP link, too.
We are considering this weekend- forecast looks warm (low 80's on Saturday), but backing off a bit on Sunday. We'll figure on hitting the crags in the morning, for sure.
mooch, I'll be with a gf, and kinda busy....but we'll probably wind up at KRBC at some point, and maybe we can tilt a beer. I'll be the tall guy with a cute girlfriend who climbs harder than I do...
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Apr 29, 2019 - 11:47am PT
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I'll ask about Lloyd Mdw Rd, Kris. Guyzo was asking about Cherry Hill Rd. I know it's open but I think you wont get past Long Meadow.
Apogee.....are you guys dirt bagging or staying in town? We could meet you at the slab on Sat in the morning or simply meet you guys at the brewery later on. I'll be the guy who likes beer.... ;) - Dave
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 29, 2019 - 01:49pm PT
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No on Lloyd Meadow. The road to Ponderosa is open and the Tree Route is Dry- Ron solo'd that this weekend.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2019 - 06:18pm PT
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mooch...this whole thing is still up in the air. We are hoping for this weekend, but some variables might affect that. We might do an Air BnB, or dirtbag somewhere in the area. Still trying to firm this up. Hopefully, the weather will stay do-able once we can make up our minds!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 29, 2019 - 10:25pm PT
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If moderates are indicated why not go to Dome Rock? Too far?
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Apr 30, 2019 - 09:40am PT
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I called the Kernville Ranger station this morning and was told that Loyd Meadow Road is still closed, and no estimate on when it is going to open.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Apr 30, 2019 - 08:32pm PT
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apogee -
My Airbnb is open for reservation
Search 'Yellow Jacket Retreat'.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2019 - 09:03pm PT
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Thanks, mooch.
Unfortunately, it looks like the plan for this weekend has melted down. I'm in the area at least once a year, though...I'll definitely keep that in mind.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 30, 2019 - 10:49pm PT
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No on Lloyd Meadow. The road to Ponderosa is open and the Tree Route is Dry- Ron solo'd that this weekend.
I'm curious, can you drive from Kernville to Ponderosa? Ron would most likely have come up from the Porterville side, I think.
Coming up from Kernville I'm curious about the section that goes uphill from the intersection with Lloyd Meadows Rd at Johnsondale up to the Western Divide Hwy.
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