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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 28, 2019 - 07:25am PT
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Thinking about being in the Kernville area over the next few weeks...
Got any beta on local cragging in the area?
Probably won't get out to the Needles, but interested in the abundance of crags in the vicinity.
What's the best guidebook for the area? Does it exist?
Other online sources of beta?
Mucho appreciado!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 28, 2019 - 11:31am PT
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I'll second Valhalla. Mostly vertical bolted face climbs, like sport only different. Generally, the bolting is a little sporty, and if there's gear placements you probably won't find a bolt. Also, most of the climbs are longer than 30M, so two 60M ropes are good. I can't say if a 70 will work. In any case you won’t get standard 30M sport lower offs on some of the climbs. You can expect bolt anchors on top. The routes are on the hard side and tend to be enduro. The standard warm-up is a 5.10 just about at the center of the right-hand wall; several bolts, good gear as well. It's obviously the easiest one on that wall.
It's in a canyon cut by Salmon Creek, and there's a waterfall. It should be pretty nice in there right about now. It's not far from town either.
Hit me up at kristian underscore solem at verizon dot net and I'll send you the driving/approach beta. I don't wanna have Kernville locals gunning for me because I posted it on the web. :-)
Also, Herb Laeger made a mini guide for several of the roadside crags just north of town. New Directions Cliff doesn't look like much from the road, but it has a good variety of fun routes on choice granite. That guide should be available at one of the outdoor sports shops in town there.
It looks like daytime temps are high 70's/low 80's there now. Valhalla is cool and shady, and somewhat air conditioned by the waterfall. The roadside crags north of town are full sun.
edit: There are also some more recently developed areas east toward Walker Pass. The two I've visited are good, but your best bet for beta is to call out Levy or Medusa (Is he going by Jeff Constine these days?) Are either of those guys still even here? Constine / Medusa would make an obvious target for banning (sorry Jeff;-) They can set you straight.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2019 - 12:41pm PT
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That’s great beta, Ksolem...thank you.
I should have specified we’ll be looking at a much more moderate range...5.6 - 5.10, sport, gear, or TR. Still, Valhalla sounds intriguing enough to go explore, anyway.
I will probably follow up with an email later- I appreciate whatever is offered.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Apr 28, 2019 - 02:41pm PT
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well kris, if this site gets trimmed back to a bloody stump, that post should survive
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 28, 2019 - 05:13pm PT
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Check out Valhalla just to see it. The 5.10 route I mentioned is really good, even if it's the only thing you do in there. It's easy to spot. It's about halfway up the right hand wall as you walk in, and I think it's the only route on the face with significant crack systems. About 5.10b. Super safe with some gear to augment the bolts.
There is lot's to do in the grades you're looking for at Kern Slabs and New Directions. The slab is pretty low angle. Funny story though, Ron Carson put up a route there on a very polished streak. I went there with a better climber than I, and we threw ourselves at it all afternoon. It really feels like sh*t to fail on something that looks like you should be able to walk up it.
Give Sierra South Mountain Sports a call to see if they have copies of Herb's Guide. The title is Kernville Rock Climbs, New Directions Cliffs and Kern Slab. (800) 457-2082.
If they don't have it, I have some copies. Maybe I can get one to you.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 28, 2019 - 05:56pm PT
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LOL Solom, nothing to see in the WP ha ha hehe~
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2019 - 07:05pm PT
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Ksolem, thank you again. Valhalla sounds very intriguing, if only to see the canyon and falls.
I actually know Tom Moore with Sierra South- I will reach out to him about Herb’s guide.
This should be a very good time of year to explore an area that has always been of interest, but I’ve never seemed to find the time to dive in.
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Matt Sarad
climber
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Apr 28, 2019 - 08:11pm PT
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Valhalla is indeed a magical place.
Herb’s new guide fills in the blanks at the Kern Slabs. Weather is nice now. Early morning starts reward with cool granite. Later on it gets hot.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 29, 2019 - 06:22am PT
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The moderates at the Slabs, New Directions, Book Rock, etc, are all good, but they are indeed about to start baking very soon if not already too hot. They get sun most of the day and make good cold season climbing.
BAd
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Apr 29, 2019 - 10:45am PT
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Valhalla
Nope. With the recent warm up, Salmon Creek is raging back there. Most of the routes are wet from the spray. I went basck there yesterday.....'Assault and Battery' and the 5.8 to the right of it are doable.
It did cool down a bit today but temps will return this coming weekend. If you're coming during this week, New Directions and the Kern Slab will be good. Best to hit up both in the morning when the temps are cool.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106278927/kernville-rock-aka-kern-slabs
The Great Divide Hwy is OPEN. I was told that you can get back to Dome Rock. The Needles is a no-go (as far as the dirt road goes). Lots of snow and felled trees. Your'e best bet if you want to climb there is to go up from the bottom to Voodoo and do White Punks.
Hit me up apogee........I live a little over a mile from the slabs. a few new routes there as well.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 29, 2019 - 11:09am PT
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With the recent warm up, Salmon Creek is raging back there.
Cool. I may have to come up and get back there with my camera. It's still to early season for the sun to make the place glow late in the day?
Did they get Lloyd Meadows Rd to Voodoo open now?
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2019 - 11:18am PT
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More great beta! Thanks, mooch.
I've got the Slabs & New Directions guide all lined up- that will help. Checked out the MP link, too.
We are considering this weekend- forecast looks warm (low 80's on Saturday), but backing off a bit on Sunday. We'll figure on hitting the crags in the morning, for sure.
mooch, I'll be with a gf, and kinda busy....but we'll probably wind up at KRBC at some point, and maybe we can tilt a beer. I'll be the tall guy with a cute girlfriend who climbs harder than I do...
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Apr 29, 2019 - 11:47am PT
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I'll ask about Lloyd Mdw Rd, Kris. Guyzo was asking about Cherry Hill Rd. I know it's open but I think you wont get past Long Meadow.
Apogee.....are you guys dirt bagging or staying in town? We could meet you at the slab on Sat in the morning or simply meet you guys at the brewery later on. I'll be the guy who likes beer.... ;) - Dave
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 29, 2019 - 01:49pm PT
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No on Lloyd Meadow. The road to Ponderosa is open and the Tree Route is Dry- Ron solo'd that this weekend.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2019 - 06:18pm PT
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mooch...this whole thing is still up in the air. We are hoping for this weekend, but some variables might affect that. We might do an Air BnB, or dirtbag somewhere in the area. Still trying to firm this up. Hopefully, the weather will stay do-able once we can make up our minds!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 29, 2019 - 10:25pm PT
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If moderates are indicated why not go to Dome Rock? Too far?
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Apr 30, 2019 - 09:40am PT
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I called the Kernville Ranger station this morning and was told that Loyd Meadow Road is still closed, and no estimate on when it is going to open.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Apr 30, 2019 - 08:32pm PT
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apogee -
My Airbnb is open for reservation
Search 'Yellow Jacket Retreat'.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2019 - 09:03pm PT
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Thanks, mooch.
Unfortunately, it looks like the plan for this weekend has melted down. I'm in the area at least once a year, though...I'll definitely keep that in mind.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 30, 2019 - 10:49pm PT
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No on Lloyd Meadow. The road to Ponderosa is open and the Tree Route is Dry- Ron solo'd that this weekend.
I'm curious, can you drive from Kernville to Ponderosa? Ron would most likely have come up from the Porterville side, I think.
Coming up from Kernville I'm curious about the section that goes uphill from the intersection with Lloyd Meadows Rd at Johnsondale up to the Western Divide Hwy.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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All of the routes at Valhalla can be done with a single 60 Meter rope. Certainly a 70 M rope will work as well but all of the routes there will work fine on a single 60.
Bring at least a single rack of cams to 3" and a few medium nuts. For the routes on the North side of the creek, especially the Herb Dihedral (5.10d), double cams from 3/4" to 3" is nice plus a 3.5 or 4" cam as well.
There is a nice route I established to the left of the Herb Dihedral called Viking Funeral (5.11b) that also needs cams to 3" to supplement to 5 or so bolts.
Most of the other routes there need only quickdraws but as a word of caution, the 5.11c route to the immediate left of the 5.10b warm-up Kris mentioned is missing the last hanger and a wired nut to cinch on the stud is necessary to use this bolt.
I will most likely be in the area this coming weekend so if anybody wants to meet up, let me know.
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craig morris
Trad climber
la
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Cherry Hill rd. is open to Poison meadow creek as of last Saturday.Salmon creek is raging.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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mooch
is that for real-i browsed and found nothing on airbnb?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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It weren’t too hard to fine, evin fur mee...
It lukes evin betta insighed!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Sounds like you can get to Ponderosa from Kernville. It's just the Lloyd Meadow road that's closed at this point (and the Needles road).
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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It was not open on Sat.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Awesome place Mooch. We like to visit Kern too at least once a year. We usually like to camp right by the river at Limestone campground but might have to see if your AirBNB is open next time we go.
How is the home sales and prices in that area? Would love to find a house in that area some day.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2019 - 08:50am PT
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Hey, mooch...I'm going to be in Kernville next Tues-Wed teaching a class for some of the river guiding companies there. I'll arrive late Monday afternoon, get things set up, then probably be at KRBC for dinner.
My girlfriend will be with me- we are hoping to do some cragging on Thursday, so I'd like to get some more beta. Can I pick your brain over a beer on Monday night?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 14, 2019 - 09:19am PT
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I cannot edit my previous post regarding the length of ropes needed at Valhalla so I am posting again to say that a single 60 M rope is too short. A 70 M is necessary.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 14, 2019 - 02:08pm PT
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Thanks Bill. I wasn't gonna argue with you, I just figured my memory was foggy. But I kinda recall on a couple, maybe that Valkyries thing and another, being a bit long for one 60M cord.
edit:
so I'd like to get some more beta
Here's some good beta. Watch out for poison oak.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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May 14, 2019 - 04:11pm PT
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And Ticks!
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tbailey
Trad climber
canoga park
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May 15, 2019 - 05:06am PT
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Limestone cave is in good shape now, but I am not. Cave is best in the morning or late afternoon, sun can be brutal.Draws still up a couple of weeks ago. Thank you,whoever! Headed back up today, but looks like rain Thursday..
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2019 - 10:20am PT
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Bump for beers at KRBC with mooch!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 16, 2019 - 10:53am PT
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A -
Back on the radar......we'll be here this weekend. I have someone staying at my Airbnb until Saturday. But that won't stop us from swapping stories and beta. I can meet you over the weekend or wait until Monday after 5PM. Name yer poison.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2019 - 10:57am PT
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I'll arrive in Kville Monday evening...should be at KRBC by around 6:30-7. Tall guy, dark hair...prolly have my pup with me. See you there!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 16, 2019 - 11:01am PT
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Ok. Sounds good. I'll be looking for you. i'll be wearing a black LAFC ball cap and sporting an ever greying beard.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 16, 2019 - 02:26pm PT
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@ dirt claud -
Thanks! I really like my place too! I'm actually situated 3 miles north of Kernville, in the little hamlet of Riverkern, just before the Tulare County line. I was fortunate enough to have friends that worked at the brewery and told me they were selling their place. I had been looking for a couple of months and wasn't finding anything I liked. When I finally had a chance to see their place, I fell in love with it. It's got potential for additions and I want to do something with the front.
As far as property sales go around Kernville, its small town sales. The folks here are fairly embedded. My place.....1565 sq ft/.43 acre.......$195K. The insurance here is a bit higher since its in R2 fire zone country. We've seen a number of fires in the past 3 years. I like that my places is just a mile and a half from Kern Slab and New Directions. ;)
And if you are considering property here in the Kern River Valley, Kernville is truly the place to be. Based on my experience living here in KRV, you want to stay clear of Bodfish, Lake Isabella, South Lake and Squirrel Valley. Meth is a big problem , along with burglary/break-ins. Wofford Heights has a similar issue but not as much. Their problem is that they are in prime fire country. They are situated in a "siphon draw", with Alta Sierra being the conduit and source of dead timber. I'd steer clear of that area. I've been hearing from friends that they are having a hard time finding insurance that will take them on.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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May 16, 2019 - 02:29pm PT
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Local climbing buddy just messaged the Lloyd Meadow road is open.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 16, 2019 - 02:48pm PT
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There ya go! White Punks On Dope!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 16, 2019 - 07:45pm PT
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Even better than White Punks is is the uber classic Emperor crack. The entire tier with Emperor and the Aurora routes, Ewok, etc... are super fun. I strongly recommend that anyone who likes steep granite to visit this place before it gets hot.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 16, 2019 - 09:53pm PT
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^^^^^
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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May 17, 2019 - 10:29am PT
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since there are 3 locals posting - when cherry hill road opens, does that typically mean that the road will be snow free? Will bart dome area be mostly snow free?
Hoping to get up there the second week of June.
Dave and Kris - I'd love to message you with other questions and inquiries.
thx.
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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May 17, 2019 - 04:01pm PT
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Local climbing buddy just messaged the Lloyd Meadow road is open.
https://domelandwilderness.wordpress.com/
says:
"Anyone wishing to head into the Domeland Wilderness over Memorial Day weekend may be very disappointed. Is it a bad thing? Maybe not to some but the roads (Cherry Hill and Sherman Pass) access the western side will be closed over Memorial Day weekend due to large amounts of snow. Only access into the area is via the PCT, which will add longer travel times to the area. It may be best to wait a few more weeks past Memorial Day to access the wilderness. Stay tuned for more road openings as reports come in."
Was hoping for Bart Dome 5/31 or 6/13 weekend - we'll see...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 17, 2019 - 04:48pm PT
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Dave and Kris - I'd love to message you with other questions and inquiries.
kristian underscore solem at verizon dot net
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 17, 2019 - 04:52pm PT
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Kerntucky till the end!!!
The dirty soul of rock climbing
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 20, 2019 - 06:18pm PT
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Hey apogee -
You still going to be in town tonight around 7:30?
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2019 - 07:07pm PT
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Yep...I’m at KRBC now. Just arrived.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 20, 2019 - 07:20pm PT
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See you there.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 20, 2019 - 09:12pm PT
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Good times were had at KRBC! Thanks apogee! Need an annual rendezvous in K-Ville for frequent fliers of the So Sierra stone scalers! Kris and Guyzo.....help me out!
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2019 - 09:38pm PT
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Very nice to meet you both, mooch. I will certainly look you up on my next foray to Kville. Let's get on the stone!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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May 22, 2019 - 07:32pm PT
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Craggin time
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2019 - 07:56pm PT
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Got a little taste of Kernville Kragging today with my girlfriend...ironically, high temps at this time of year limit potential, but this year, it has been persistent cool and lightly rainy conditions that have limited potential.
We didn't get out till late morning, and got started on that 5.8 bolted job to the left of Dirty Dishes. Did the first pitch a couple of times, then headed up to do the second pitch under spitting rain, hoping it would back off. No such luck. Clipped the second bolt, and then it got more serious. Bail!
Had a burger at McNally's, then went for a hike to Valhalla- that was a bit of an adventure, since I was navigating based on my memory of the road and access trail from online beta I read last week. Hiked up the north side of the drainage, following a bunch of cairns...found the wall....very impressive! The 'air conditioning' was in full effect (though not necessary today).
All told, it was a great day. I'd definitely come back. Thanks to everyone here for the beta, and the local hospitality from mooch!
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