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couchmaster
climber
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Dec 17, 2018 - 08:40am PT
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I have multiple ropes. They all get bought when they are on sale.
Currently:
*Multipitch with long hikes in that don't need to be rapped to get off: Beal Joker 9.1 X 60 and 70.
*Multipitch with long hikes in that DO need to be rapped to get off: Metolius 7.8 x 60 double ropes.
* Toproping where you are getting lowered: 11mm x 47 and a 11mm x 60 (these were sale ropes and dirt cheap). Use 2 steel biners at the anchor point. Walls: the long phat one.
Multipitch where I think it's likely I'll fall or weight the rope: bigger is better, got a couple 10.2s. My son bought me a Edelweiss 9.9 x 70 duo pattern as a gift because he said I'd be too cheap to buy it myself. Then when he saw that I was keeping it in reserve he insisted I take it out and use it, So I did and used it for everything: and I got about 6 months out of it till it chopped, most likely jugging on it but was toproping as well.
And then ya got yer statics and differing belay devices for the ropes, in fact I have an extra device so if my partner shows up with something that is recommended at 10mm and up and I brought a 9.1 I can get a solid lead belay catch if I ever need it....:-) (DMM Bugettes)
Back in the day there was only 11mm diameter ropes and folks climbed all kinds of stuff with them and it worked fine.
*
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 17, 2018 - 08:47am PT
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The fattest one somebody else is gonna carry for me.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 17, 2018 - 08:50am PT
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Simple fact of physics - fat people don't get to use ultralight gear. I've seen stripped and cut ropes, broken biners, ground falls due to stretch and lack of friction, etc.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Dec 17, 2018 - 08:52am PT
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Real question here is why she can't lead with a 10.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Dec 17, 2018 - 10:14am PT
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Twin 9mm
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Dec 17, 2018 - 10:24am PT
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half 7.8s or single 9.8
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Dec 17, 2018 - 10:33am PT
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^^^ Yup, I can just picture Werner rubbing his hands together in glee whenever a rescue call comes in: "Money, money, money. Here comes the money. I jes luv dem skinny ropes!"
LOL
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jstan
climber
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Dec 17, 2018 - 10:39am PT
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Jugged once on 3/8" goldline.
ONCE
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 17, 2018 - 11:20am PT
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Used to solo in the Cascades with a 7mm, but it was only for abseiling.
It sure looked skinny while dangling, and talk about springy!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Dec 17, 2018 - 11:24am PT
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Not just braided, ultra-stretchy. You'd jug for about 50 feet before finally leaving the ground. And then, yeah, boing, boing, boing.
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JoeyNMG
Trad climber
Lincroft
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Dec 17, 2018 - 02:58pm PT
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10.0 and larger.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 17, 2018 - 03:30pm PT
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Dood, I was a lot lighter then, plus I didn’t want to stress my sketchy anchors.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 17, 2018 - 03:30pm PT
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They are rated as singles, so I clip just one at a time if I want to reduce the rope drag.
...Then you could lead on both ropes clipping them together when you are worried about the fall potential. There still a hassle, in my opinion, but it's a safe option, i would think.
FWIW it’s not a great idea to clip both doubles (half ropes) into one placement (or bolt.) The two together are less dynamic than a regular single rope. These ropes are designed to be clipped independently. On the other hand, double twin ropes are not rated individually, only as a pair, and are designed to clip every piece of pro.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Dec 17, 2018 - 03:32pm PT
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8.5 mm genesis.
I pretty much just use them as half ropes.
Hope I don’t wear them out before the mortgage on them is due.
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Rankin
Social climber
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
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Dec 17, 2018 - 04:43pm PT
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9.5 to 9.8 is what passes for a medium to fat rope these days and would be plenty for any size climber I’ve met. I’m not a heavier climber but I’d never go above 9.8 for an outdoor rope. Just too much weight and bulk to carry. I’m rolling with a 9.8 Sterling which I like because it is durable and provides a soft catch without being too stretchy for toproping.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Dec 17, 2018 - 05:22pm PT
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Mammut Genesis can be use as a double, or a single rope. When used as a double, it will stretch less, thus reducing the risk of hitting the ground.
It will only stretch less if both ropes catch the fall. If you are genuinely using them as doubles, ( aka half ropes- alternating ropes through clips) that’s not necessarily likely. When you alternate clips and run out even a little, only one rope is likely to catch you.
If you use them as twins( both ropes through all clips) they will more likely stretch less than a single.
It’s pretty situational. You have to be aware of how you are engineering the protection.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Dec 17, 2018 - 05:56pm PT
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Dec 17, 2018 - 04:43pm PT
9.5 to 9.8 is what passes for a medium to fat rope these days and would be plenty for any size climber I’ve met. I’m not a heavier climber but I’d never go above 9.8 for an outdoor rope. Just too much weight and bulk to carry. I’m rolling with a 9.8 Sterling which I like because it is durable and provides a soft catch without being too stretchy for toproping.
What do you do about rope length rappels?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 17, 2018 - 06:13pm PT
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Please, Kris, tell us more.
As you said, your double half ropes are rated for some number of falls used singly, as they are when you clip them alternately. And yes, if you clip them doubly through one piece or bolt, there will be less stretch, but therein lies the problem. The two half ropes working together through one anchor will be less dynamic, stretch less and absorb less energy than a good single rope. It’s a case where two half ropes add up to a more static catch than one single.
Since everything in climbing is situational, I’ve clipped them both plenty of times; near the deck or above a ledge with solid gear, times like that. And of course before I knew any better.
If I’m not making sense try the gear guy
edit: While I was dealing with something here, Lorenzo got it in far fewer words... :-)
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Dec 17, 2018 - 07:29pm PT
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Don't use a rope.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 17, 2018 - 07:33pm PT
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If you are afraid the rope stretch will put you in danger, you clip both ropes.
Sure, so long as your gear is reliable enough to stand up to the magnified forces in a fall. Better to stretch some than pull the gear.
I've used doubles for long traditional routes for thirty or more years. Like you, there have been plenty of times I've clipped 'em both. As we both said, it's all situational.
So I'm not quite sure what we're disagreeing about. I just brought up the fact that two doubles clipped through the same anchor will be more static than a normal single rope in the same situation. One more factor to consider, that's all.
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