Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
skywalker1
Trad climber
co
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 16, 2018 - 02:24pm PT
|
So my wife is a buck 10. I'm a buck 90. I bought her a 9.2 70 meter. 8ish % static elongation, 34%ish dynamic elongation. She swears by it and loves it. Now for me I hate it cause I can't reasonably predict my landing spot. Especially when striking a small ledge is of concern. We mulipitch mostly so weight is a factor.
I personally like a big rope 10.2 a least. We argue (in a friendly manner of course) what rope to bring. I simply say I'll carry the rope but she hates leading on the big rope. Big guys, what do you use?
I looked up the question but didn't see a thread here. This is almost like a car talk question.
S...
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 02:52pm PT
|
What is your application, for a climbing rope?
For a Big Wall, the best thing is a heavy, fat rope that can withstand repeated abuse, and still be safe.
For a top-roping giggle-fest, a weakling half-rope may be sufficient.
The trend is for thinner ropes that can sustain a half-dozen UIAA falls. But, a thicker rope has psychological aspects not measurable on a drop-fall mechanism.
Thinner ropes are inherently more likely to be cut over an adverse edge that is not shown on a topo.
Personally, it is scary enough to jug a big, fat Big Wall rope, let alone lead up, far away from a last piece of protection. I don't understand the benefit of tying into a piece of tooth floss in order to save a few pounds.
A "puffy rope" that is the diameter of a Big Wall rope, but has the weight of a Sporty Rope may be a suitable compromise for free climbers - not suitable for all applications.
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
An improved diet, and not a focus on technique, is suggested for a climber using the rope shown below.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 03:24pm PT
|
The tag on your rope may not tell you this:
At the factory, the machine winds it onto a spool, slides it off laterally, and it is delivered with the configuration of a coil spring.
It is necessary to unwind the coil of rope before use.
If you simply pull both ends of a rope coil out in opposite directions, you induce twists in the rope (one twist per coil) that greatly weakens your climbing rope.
The proper technique is to tie one end of the rope to a tree, and then walk backwards, while unrolling the coils in your forearms, as if reverse Disco dancing (c.f. John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever).
Always use a figure-8 coiling method in the field, to ensure no twists.
|
|
skywalker1
Trad climber
co
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2018 - 03:30pm PT
|
Ahh its just a little dispute between us. If I was to climb a wall I would just take the beefy one. But when we are gear climbing (multi-pitch near my level) I don't always know where my gear placement will be available. In Eldo ledges abound. In Indian Creek you're generally free from ledges so whistle away. The "Valley" it's mixed. But I don't have enough experience there to say. I guess as far as application its kinda all the above. I'm 6'3 190lbs and I hate these skinny ropes!
Maybe a dumb question.
Carry on...
S...
|
|
Happiegrrrl2
Trad climber
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 03:49pm PT
|
Compromise.
If you're swinging leads for the day, then flip a coin and bring the rope of toss winners choice.
If one of you is leading most or all the pitches, bring the rope of that person's preference.
I like a 10.2 mtself, but I think it's really just a mind game.
|
|
madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 03:55pm PT
|
I use the Blue Water Enduro (11mm) for walls. But for everything else, I find 4mm from any reliable manufacturer to be sufficient motivation that I've never had to test the reliability of any manufacturer.
I highly recommend this approach, and, once you try it, you'll thank me regarding weight, friction, and ease of rope-run.
|
|
Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 03:55pm PT
|
It depends...
|
|
tallguy
Trad climber
tacoma
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 04:44pm PT
|
16 mm or greater for peace of mind, but i cant seem to find anyone who makes a rope like that. I have to make do with something around 10 mm.
6'5", 195 or so on a good day.
|
|
Happiegrrrl2
Trad climber
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 05:27pm PT
|
So I was just scrolling the topics and even though I knew this thread,my mind read the title as "Big Guys what is your diaper of choice?"
|
|
MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 05:41pm PT
|
I’m 195#
If there’s going to be any jumaring, I don’t want anything under 10mm, both for durability but also because, well, it’s scary.
For rock climbing at the crags and moderate length routes, I usually use a 9.5 mm. For alpine I have used 9.2 and 8.9, but I’m less psyched on those small ropes if it’s of sufficient difficulty where a fall is likely, and/or it’s a long route on alpine granite where durability is an issue. On the 8.9, I’ve actually taken 20 foot falls on top rope. Not so cool when above ledges.
I really don’t like ropes larger than 10 for free routes both because of weight and that they can be too stiff in the belay device.
Edit: for ice I’ll usually use twins or 8.2 doubles. You don’t fall ice climbing :)
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 05:44pm PT
|
170 pounds here,
Thinnest single I have ever owned is a 9.7mm
I do own 7.7 twins / doubles for multi pitch
Can’t see dropping below a 9.5 personally
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
|
I climbed for years on a single 8.8mm rope.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 07:22pm PT
|
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The Duck leads the Rostrum and Astroman using a 0.0mm rope.
You can't blindly trust his advice. What works for him may not work for you.
And, I'm not saying that the Duck has a hidden agenda for promoting the use of really, really thin ropes, but he makes money when people crater in Yosemite.
Another consideration: do you ever yo-yo a pitch? A fatter rope would be better in that situation.
This topic could be translated, without effort, from a "Which Racket?" topic from SuperTennis.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 07:42pm PT
|
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Fair enough. It should have read . . . . . . .
. . . . his job is to clean up the mess when people in Yosemite crater.
I was not trying to rip WVB a new one. I was trying to engage with the idea that WVB's rope suggestion was ironic . . . . . he free solos routes that most people would not be able to follow, even with a 33mm rope.
My suggestion is either:
Mammut Supersafe - 10.2mm
Yates Big Wall - 11mm
|
|
two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 09:22pm PT
|
See if your mate will go for two 1/2 ropes. If she is light enough, she could get by with leading on just one 1/2 rope. Then you could lead on both ropes clipping them together when you are worried about the fall potential. There still a hassle, in my opinion, but it's a safe option, i would think.
|
|
Outside
Trad climber
Truckee
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 09:32pm PT
|
Fatter is better!
|
|
August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 10:28pm PT
|
Rope, smope.
Yer still gonna die.
|
|
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2018 - 11:29pm PT
|
Thicker is better unless you never fall where there might be a ledge below or a sharp edge for the rope to run over, or climb where rock never comes off the wall (Gym or sport climbing) Recreational, outdoor rock climbing is not a competition where every ounce counts. A bit of extra weight should not have a significant affect on how much fun you're having. Hitting a ledge due to rope stretch or having your rope sliced through could have a very significant affect on your happiness. Twice I have had my rope cut 75% through (both times from rock fall that came off while leading). Both times were with an 11mm rope. I try not to think what would have happened with a thinner rope. I still lead on a 10.8 mm and don't mind the weight compared to the extra safety, or at least psychological feeling of safety.
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2018 - 05:36am PT
|
I'm just envious that you have a wife that obviously likes to get out and get after it. Good for you.
When I was dating my wife she followed most Gunks 5.10s. When we got engaged she struggled to follow non-overhanging Gunks 5.8s. When we got married she cried on our honeymoon while following the first pitch of Chitlin Corner (5.7) in Acadia National Park in Maine; obviously the 5.10 roof/corner on the 2nd pitch was out of the question. I have pictures of her at the optional hanging belay on the classic 5.5 Horseman in the Gunks. I believe that was the last pitch of climbing she ever did aside from one or two short and easy top-ropes I had set up for the kids and their friends at the local choss pile.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2018 - 05:53am PT
|
200 here.... double 8.5 Mammut genisis's for rock and ice.
Thickest sheath of any double. Before an obvious crux, two bomber pieces clipped to each separate rope.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!