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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 16, 2018 - 03:23am PT
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Suggested on another thread.
I'm game. Here's a few recent ones.
Guess which is spurious.
(Attributions...meh)
1. Personally, I think the more urbinization the better off the planet is.
Population growth is inevitable but where you put all those people isn’t.
2. Bolted belays:
*scar the climb
*draw people to them and exacerbate the herd instinct in climbing
*create climber dependence
*deter learning opportunities for new climbers
*remove much of the exploratory aspect of climbing
*are almost never needed
3. You gotta have game to get to where you want to go.
4. My rule of thumb is....if you think you need something, you don’t.....
if you KNOW you need something, you do.
5. It is my opinion that manufactured climbs should be a “gym only” affair and that natural rock should never have holds enhanced,
chipped, drilled or added regardless of the quality or nature of the rock.
6. Never drink coffee after noon.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Dec 16, 2018 - 05:34am PT
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He said this to me one time:
"if your going to solo, fall early"
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Dec 16, 2018 - 06:13am PT
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"pussies sure do love pistols"
MfM's number one and number two go together: bolt convenience belays in places like IC so the herd stays thick homogenous lazy and instagrammific in little hotspots of human high density. better for everyone.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 16, 2018 - 07:25am PT
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Donini’s three rules of aging:
#1-Never trust a fart
#2-Never waste a hard on.
#3-I can’t remember the third rule.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 16, 2018 - 08:13am PT
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Last time we met he said he was happy to see me.
That casts a different light on those aphorisms now, doesn’t it?
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 16, 2018 - 08:30am PT
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With a glint of excitement, the old fellow leans in & firmly states:
"We're going big tommorrow!"
While following a Donini lead on top-rope, I started sniviling about bleeding-out from a small hole in the back of my hand & asked to be lowered.
From Donini:
"If I hear any more whinning, I'm giving you ten feet of penalty slack."
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Dec 16, 2018 - 09:31am PT
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A4isms? donini?
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Dec 16, 2018 - 09:43am PT
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If this is too much, I'll fold it up and put it away with care. I would guess that it at least, in part, informed a unique way of a climber. Hmong, Mien, Karen. To keeping your partners, in the places up high. No mas eh?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Dec 16, 2018 - 02:04pm PT
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Drink no wine before its time, which would be 5 p.m. local time.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 16, 2018 - 02:48pm PT
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Jon: Sorry! Donini cocktail hour doesn't start until 6:00 PM, or when he's done climbing, whichever hour is later.
Every living legend should have one good habit.
Heidi & me on a thunderstorm afternoon at COR, waiting until 6:00, so Jim can have a drink. We started at 5:00.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Dec 16, 2018 - 03:00pm PT
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Haha, I stand corrected Fritz. I could have sworn it was 5.
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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Dec 16, 2018 - 06:02pm PT
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Around the campfire, Indian Creek: It was after 6, way after, and strong waters had been in circulation among the circle of chairs. Donini had been immobile for many minutes, staring into the night beyond the fire. But then, he stirred and his teeth flashed! And into the hole of light this gnomic utterance floated out: “The angle of the rock in Tuolumne Meadows is proof of the non-existence of a beneficent God.” Not steep enough for Jim, I guess.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 19, 2018 - 10:42am PT
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"Climbing gyms are only useful when you're between marriages."
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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"Survival is not assured."
This is either a Doninism, or a recurring theme of Donini's hard climbs, according to his partner Thom Engelbach, who related same to me as a storm approached on a Wind River climb and he was clad in only a T-shirt and he was remembering a climb with Jim on Fitzroy.
Or perhaps it derives from George Lowe's assigning percentage of probability of survival to the team members on the later stages of the Latok I 1977 climb, with the values ranging from 65% to 35%.
Here is hoping Jim chimes in and clarifies.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I've no idea what this thread is on about
but I liked it most
It brought a tear to my eye when he responed to one of my very 1st posts
(going to go search it down, it was about leading off(taped) hooks & he, being a wee bit older than I when I came off as a teenager back then);^)
This was not that but a classic witticism
if that's what is called for?
1)Nov 16, 2016
05:19pm PST Is soloing becoming too "casual"?
Making soloing look casual and treating soloing too casually are two very different things. If you don't make soloing look casual you shouldn't be doing it and if you treat soloing too casually you won't be doing it for long....
Dec 19, 2016
09:18am PST Why do so many people believe in God? (Serious Question?)
A VERY hopefull statistic....in just five years the number of Americans thirty and under who say they never doubt the existence of god has dropped 15% from 83% to 68%. They are the future and it seems that among them reason and logic are gaining over superstition and tradition....
Mar 12, 2016
12:47pm PST Ready for Donald ?
Read "The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich."......some eerie parallels....
"An Edlinger ice tool.....something like a Jim Whittaker rock climbing shoe or a Warren Harding alcohol free red wine...."
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donini, Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 24, 2018 - 09:46am PT
"Wilderness Experiance"
"Stuff was handcrafted in Chatsworth...super durable. Chatsworth is also the center of an another extremely durable entity...the porn industry.
I still have, and use, a couple of duffles."
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2019 - 12:50am PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 30, 2019 - 04:01am PT
When selecting gear, if you think you “ might” need it...you don’t. If you “know” you need it...you do.
There! I've Said It Again
--Bobby Vinton
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 31, 2019 - 07:43am PT
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"Survival is not assured."
I can explicate the historical etymology of this quote.
Patagonia. January 1996. Donini, Stefan Heirmaier, and me. Starting to get dark. We'd been trying to force our way to the top of Cerro Torre in a building storm and had reached Maestri's Compressor, one pitch below the summit. On the pitch immediately below, jumaring behind Stefan, rime ice buildup had frozen my eyelids shut—figuring out why I suddenly couldn't see had provided one of life's more intense moments. I'd led over the huge blob of ice frozen to the bottom of the Compressor, brought the two of them up to the only stance on the headwall—the compressor itself—and started up the last pitch, clipping the four or five bolts above to reach the crux aid section of the "Bridwell Pitch," where Maestri had smashed his bolts on the way down. Feathers of rime growing on the rock. I'm scraping my glove over the rock trying to find the first rivet head. I hear Jim yelling but can't hear a word. Jim's only about 15 feet away. I look down. Jim gestures down with his glove. It's suddenly the only thing that makes sense.
I later learned that Stefan had just leaned into Donini's ear and yelled: "What are our chances?"
Jim assessed the situation. Total f*#king chaos—wind, noise, whiteout—and yelled back: "Survival is not assured."
We spent the night enjoying an epic Patagonian descent, one of the sort people tell me don't happen much anymore due to the quality of the weather forecasts.
Thanks to Donini's "words of encouragement," Stefan later said that he'd spent the whole night certain we were gonna die.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Jan 31, 2019 - 09:06am PT
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Whoa! Thanks Greg for the explanation. But was that the first time Donini used the phrase? Want to explore more and hear from the man himself or George Lowe? Me thinks Latok I offered ample opportunity for birth of the thought.
P.S. Eyelids frozen shut. Ouch. Maybe I am glad I never graduated from rock climbing to "real Alpinism."
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 31, 2019 - 09:36am PT
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I didn't know Jim before the Patagonian season of 1995/1996, so we'll have to get the answer from the horse's mouth.
My gut feeling is that it was a situation-specific coinage. Jim certainly seemed inordinately proud of it in the aftermath.
And rightly so, I might add.
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