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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Jan 31, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
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Here's an easy one......winner gets scruffy's glasses :P
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Jan 31, 2007 - 12:35pm PT
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Jules Eichorn?
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Jan 31, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
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What's the location of this fine photo?
Ken can keep his glasses. I need corrective lenses. Partial to
sorta old-fashioned shapes.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 31, 2007 - 03:13pm PT
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I think Pinnacle Rock sometimes known as Remillard. The crucible for many an RCS hardman (and women) and generations of noob's.
Peter
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Jan 31, 2007 - 03:19pm PT
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But Peter, doesn't that look like snow in the background,
along with a serious lack of housing?
If I were just going by the shape of the rock I would have thought it was across the street at Indian Rock.
The neighborhood was pretty seriously built up in the 30s.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 31, 2007 - 04:00pm PT
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I was thinking Pinnacle or Cragmont because of the barren hillside in the backround. There are actually still some small spots of open space in those neighborhoods, and must have been more back then. Cool shot wherever it is.
Peter
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 31, 2007 - 05:31pm PT
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Cool thread. I remember my dad telling me about the 120 lb drop test. Wonder if any of you ever ran across him?
David Bressler...he grew up in berkley and got kind of adopted by the club when he and a freind tried to climb cragmont with a tow rope after seeing a movie...told me about the 120 lb drop test when he taught me to belay. Would have been in the club in the 50's and 60's? I'll point him towards this thread if i get a chance.
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George R
climber
The Gray Area
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As Peter mentioned, would-be members had to pass the dreaded "weight test". We who started in the 70's were lucky however, back in the really old days they didn't have a weight. You paired off with another candidate. One belayed and the other jumped !
I would have never gotten in back then. I could have belayed ok, but I'd have never been able to make myself jump !
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Sep 25, 2010 - 01:30am PT
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this is cool stuff. i checked out with RCS in '67 at castle rock. i remember getting jerked out of my comfy spot, skiding along on my butt a few feet to a rounded off brink while performing an upper belay. a little longish on the tie in to the anchor but what with the stretchy goldline, they were none the wiser down below. it was a live guy, and i was definitely light. wrestled 72 pounds in '64.
i wonder if anyone knows who might have been amongst the cadre in the loma prieta section in those days? bad timing to bump chicken skinner's thread, with facelift underway
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 25, 2010 - 01:57am PT
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Hooblie,
Nice bump.
That 120 drop testing business and the paired off testing sounds like something my uncle did to me.
after making sure that the base of this TR problem was clear, he basically fell on the line a little ways up. he always told me "if you drop me, I'll kill ya" and waived his fist at me.
ahhahhaa
now any old boulderer can squeeze water from sick slopers.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Sep 25, 2010 - 10:57am PT
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Like munge said above, if Kenneth May, Hervey Voge and Lewis Clark are 2nd class climbers, WTF am I!
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Bad Climber
climber
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Sep 25, 2010 - 11:36am PT
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Funny and interesting. I wonder how the scoring system worked. Hmmm...let's see. You get a 35 on judgment, but Jules over here gets a 42. What the???? Kinda ridiculous on some levels.
BAd
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Hand Jammer
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Sep 25, 2010 - 02:34pm PT
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I was interested in learning to climb and started showing up to the RCS top rope outings on Sundays at the local bay area rocks around the summer of 1976. You were not allowed to go on any "out town" overnight trips until you passed various tests. The summer dragged into late fall and I decided I'd better get busy on the tests before the season ended.
I went through the various tests. It wasn't too formal at that point - mostly on some leaders say so at the time. I don't remember any weight drop test. The one I remember most was the prussic test. The tester threw a gold-line over the overhanging section of Cragmont. It took me about 5 minutes of prussic'ing just to get off the ground!
Having passed enough tests I signed up for my first out of town trip which was going to Yosemite just before Thanksgiving. A young Peter Mayfield (still in braces) was one of the trip leaders of the outing. In the valley one of the other leaders asked me if I was a "lead" climber. Too embarrassed to admit I had never lead a climb or that this was my first "out of town" trip I blurted out that yes I was indeed!
Thusly I was was paired up to climb with a another beginner. If I remember correctly her name was Barbara and she had a foreign accent. I nervously looked through the guide book for the easiest rated climb I could find. I selected Lower Arch Traverse at 5.3 near the Arches area. It was pretty cold that November day and we got a late start toward the climb. I had no idea of the scale in the guide book or what I was getting into. As we walked along the base of the wall I could not locate the actual climb.
I finally decided that where we were was good enough and made preparations to climb. I pulled out the my new unused meager rack of stoppers, slung hexes, 150 foot rope, and home made harness made of webbing. I took a last look through Robbin's Advanced Rockcraft book for suggestions of how to go about the assent. I started up and took considerable time in placing pro as I had never done so before. Not having many carabiners I girth hitched slings to the wired nuts and slung hexes. The route, if you could call it that, consisted of many large blocks stacked up at the base of the wall. I finally reached a decent ledge and set up a belay after deciding I had gone far enough. My partner made it up to me as it was getting late in the day. We bumbled around and finally got the rappel set up. It now occurred to me I would have to leave some of my new gear behind. We got down after dark and ran into the RSC search party that was coming out to look for us on the way back.
Off route and almost benighted on one pitch of 5.3 I later realized I was never meant for climbing greatness.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Sep 25, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
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^^^ golden oldie!
there's something pitifully compelling about a guy still dancing around on the ground
next to a high tension goldline (mine was 3/8ths), ready for his first break.
"maybe hand me that canteen wouldya"
how can we miss you if you won't go away?
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