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Messages 1 - 20 of total 34 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 30, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
These are from some of Richard Leonard's RCS notebooks. Members had to pass the exam before they could lead a group.









There is plenty more if you are interested.

Ken
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 30, 2007 - 05:17pm PT
Chimes very well with my copy of "Belaying the Leader". I wonder how many of us would meet their criteria, and at what level? I mean, using the equipment and techniques they had available?
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 30, 2007 - 05:18pm PT
Ken, that stuff is great.

Are there any exams?
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jan 30, 2007 - 05:22pm PT
We're interested, keep it coming. Interesting stuff.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2007 - 05:30pm PT
This is for Crowley.



That is the best I can do for now.

Ken
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 30, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
Great Ken!

The testing system lasted into the 70's, I think I was the youngest ever to pass at barely 14, though Scott Burke may have done the same a couple of years later. The belaying the leader test was brutal. A 120lb weight was dropped with about 15 feet on goldline rope and you caught it with a hip belay. I got pulled off the ground and landed back on my head, but held the thing with the grim determination of an eager 90lb weakling. We stored the RCS ropes at Dick Leonards house, half a block up from Pinnacle Rock (Remillard Park) and I lived nearby so usually took the chore of returning them and enjoyed getting to chat with old Dick for a bit each Sunday afternoon after the session.

Peter

P.S. Crowley, I would like to connect with Goldman as well! Maybe next Easter at Cashners I will introduce you to his daughter Amanda, who he hasn't seen since she was a few months old, and who I ended up foster parenting for a couple of years. I wonder if he even knows about that!
L

climber
The City of Lost Angels
Jan 30, 2007 - 06:07pm PT
Oh man CS, I love climbing history--and especially Sierra Club Ultra-Top-Secret-We'll-Kill-Ya-If-Ya-Talk climbing history! When's the next installment?
Robb

Social climber
Under a Big Sky
Jan 30, 2007 - 06:10pm PT
Whatever happened to Chuck anyway?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2007 - 06:13pm PT
Last I heard he had moved to LA and was driving trucks.

Ken
couchmaster

climber
Jan 30, 2007 - 06:53pm PT
Wow, great stuff Ken.

Jack Rieglehuth passed away about 4 years ago. It would have been good to have been able to gently prod and rib him about being a 3rd class climber!:-)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Jan 30, 2007 - 07:00pm PT
Wow, if those are 2nd and 3rd class climbers, I must be like a 2000th class climber.

lol
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 30, 2007 - 07:53pm PT
hmm, kind of a thread hijack as Chuck was no Sierra Clubber!

Sorry Mathew, I do now remember that you know the whole saga. Like you I am psyched and honored to have gotten the invite from Chelsea! See ya there!

Goldman's truck route used to take him to Emeryville to deliver fruit pulp for juice and he would look me up. That was 1998 however. I hope he is well.

I still feel bad that the Sierra Club stopped offering rock climbing in 1989. The RCS was a great resource for kids like me. Ironically, I was an expert witness, defending the Sierra Club from the lawsuit that shut them down. I was going up against John Dill on the other side, then the Club settled on the eve of the trial and ended a great tradition of free climbing instruction.

Peter

Roman

Trad climber
3 hrs. from Seneca
Jan 30, 2007 - 09:42pm PT
That's pretty fascinating!

I wonder if my local climbing assoc. (PATC) has stuff like that around...
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 30, 2007 - 10:05pm PT
No, it would'nt have really been duking it out, it was just the way the lawyers played it. We could have easily switched roles, the plaintiff had attended the old "alpencraft seminar" at YMS when I was chief guide, and I was supposed to testify that he had been taught that he (and all climbers) should take responsibility for checking anchors, and Dill was going to testify about what a bad anchor it was that failed. I am sure John had nothing against the Sierra Club, and cross examined I would have agreed that the anchor was horrible. It was a case of a bunch of equally inexperienced climbers top roping as a sub-group, listing their gathering in the local club newsletter. There was no instruction or expertise implied. A shame that an old tradition was squelched over it.
Peter
jstan

climber
Jan 30, 2007 - 10:30pm PT
I must say I have long wondered what ever happened to John Dill. He used to climb with MITOC ARC. I went through ARC training about the same time as John. MIT had a flavor all its own. You act smart. You get admonished," Be careful now. You too can be replaced by a nonlinear servomechanism."

Cheers,
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2007 - 11:45am PT
Some test scores.







Ken
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Jan 31, 2007 - 11:52am PT
Even then it was "all about the numbers"

Keep'em comin'
mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Jan 31, 2007 - 12:13pm PT
Mooch with dear friend and climbing pioneer .



Guess who? Hint: He's got a Minaret named after him.

First one to guess gets Ken's sunglasses ;)
scuffy b

climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
Jan 31, 2007 - 12:18pm PT
Glen Dawson. But you'd already shown him here.
mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Jan 31, 2007 - 12:24pm PT
Sure, but not in this thread. ; ) You're sharp scruffy.

Johnny.....tell him what he's won! (Ken.....give up your glasses)
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