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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Nov 22, 2018 - 07:23am PT
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Cool vid. Definitely NOT bad style.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Nov 22, 2018 - 09:16am PT
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How many folks here stepped off to rest on the no hands ledge 40 feet up on Mr. Clean at DT? I was there so long they changed my mailing address
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Nov 22, 2018 - 10:04am PT
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I mainly bring this up bc its an ongoing friendly argument i have with my main climbing partner. How far off the line is “off route”. Ive seen people traverse 5 feet to the right to sit down. Is that off route? I remember a route at HCR from back in the day, where i saw people basically climb the 5.8 to the left of a 5.11, but traverse into the 5.11 to clip the bolts. Then aim the 5.11. Thats obviously a way different scenario than this, just curious
Climbing 5.8 moves off to the left and moving over to clip bolts isn't the same thing as fighting straight through crux moves, but I guess it's fine if you wanna climb 5.8 and clip the bolts on what could've been a 5.11. Same thing for taking a seat off to the side. It's mainly "bad style" if your goal was to do something else. What "Chaz" said I guess. Anyone who climbs a 5.8 and "claims" a 5.11 is in for a hard lesson, unless they already know down deep they're lying.
I have to admit, there are times when I'm climbing an established route and I'm not sure if I read it "right" (e.g. I'm thinking: going straight through here looks really hard and the route's only rated 5.9, so I'm going over there). It can be fun to see the solution other people did. Especially if it's better than going over there. However, I'm not sure I'd call misreading a route "bad style". It's more like a mistake.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 22, 2018 - 10:39am PT
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If a 5.11 route allows you to use the bolts on it while climbing 5.8 it is contrived and not worth doing.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Nov 22, 2018 - 12:05pm PT
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When I was living in Salt Lake City, the Ogden group I sometimes climbed with had a word for climbing way off the line of a route, perhaps even putting yourself in danger, to avoid a more difficult (albeit more direct and perhaps even safer) move. Not the sign of making good decisions, I admit, but something that can happen from time to time. Maybe an error the great Donini and the great Kingtut never make, but an error I've been guilty of more than once. Perhaps as I get older, my memories of this will fade, as well.
So anyway, this was called "Reamerizing the route", in honor of someone the group had climbed with, whose surname was Reamer. Reamer, who I had never met, had difficulties making the full transition from his own self-learned form of mountaineering to the demands of more technical climbing. He was famous with the group for going to great lengths to put himself in danger by climbing off to one side or another, going through bushes, dirt, loose rock, whatever it took, to avoid a perplexing crux, and then being quite pleased with his success when it worked.
The punch line of the story is that, maybe a decade later, I met (and spent some time with) this French climbing guide, pretty hard-core dude, while passing most of the summer climbing in Frey. So we get to talking, and somehow the topic turns to climbing in Ogden, which I feel has some pretty good and unheralded rock (Donini: have you ever checked out the Schoolroom Wall or the Macabre Wall?). So anyway, the guide says excitedly that Ogden is where he was introduced to climbing. He went there as an exchange student in high school or junior high school or something like that. It was the family that he lived with, in Odgen, (specifically the "dad") that introduced him to climbing. In the guide's eyes, this man who had introduced him to climbing, in those formative years, was a hero, a legend, almost godlike. And guess who it was? It was the great Mr. Reamer. I smiled and nodded, saying I never met that man, and kept my knowledge of "Reamerizing the route" to myself.
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Roadie
Trad climber
moab UT
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Nov 22, 2018 - 12:51pm PT
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yawn
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