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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 23, 2018 - 08:19pm PT
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Those were the days...Wild Ex as I recall. Luckily, what happened in Chatsworth stayed in Chatsworth...for the most part.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 23, 2018 - 08:26pm PT
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That ad photo of you on Catch-U was a little corny!
Like, who's leading two pitch Valley climbs with a rucksack, especially back then?
Nuts Only wall comprises some pretty cool rock ...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 23, 2018 - 08:33pm PT
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Corny yes, did it for a photo shoot. People couldn’t see the rope, it was hidden by my body and went around a corner and the Klettersack had foam in it but it was a full on lead climb.
Consider all the ads with a climbing element that were corny AND faked.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 23, 2018 - 08:42pm PT
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Yeah, the hidden rope was an added bonus, for sure. Ha ha.
Obviously, it was the pack loaded with fluff that was corny.
Nevertheless, it was eye-catching, if cryptic. And that video you did recently, explaining the whole set up, was entertaining!
Many readers have wondered about the full story.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Oct 24, 2018 - 09:24am PT
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When I worked at—and eventually became the buyer for—Ski Mart in Newport Beach back in the early- to mid-seventies, we sold a metric ton of Wild Ex packs. I've owned several Klettersacks over the years, and I've still got a sky blue one—without the leather bottom.
The one remaining Klettersack I still have has been on multiple grade IV and Vs in the Valley, many ice climbs in the Sierra, an expedition on Mt. Foraker in Alaska, and several seasons climbing in Europe. It still goes on day hikes with me in the Whitney region.
At the moment, it sits in the closet in our Cabin in the Whitney Portal but, the next time I'm up there, I'll snap a picture. Would you want it?
Here's a shot with a larger Wilderness Experience pack:
The long-gone red one… RIP:
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 24, 2018 - 10:19am PT
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swinging back to packs, In '75? I had a red North Face kletter sack, A Scrambler? I think it was called.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Oct 24, 2018 - 02:30pm PT
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I’ve still got mine: it’s where I keep my pile jacket, my Whillans harness, and my Hexes!
Got it from Ski Mart when I worked with Rob.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Oct 24, 2018 - 08:21pm PT
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By 1980 (or whenever), US pack designers had surpassed the Euros. But not in '71. Not by a long shot. objection ... exception!given the "suitable load" ... or maybe "tailored" load ... unsurpassed
Rivendell's classy 1975 catalog stated that they had become, in 1971, "the originator of sophisticated soft pack design." Shown at page bottom is their top-of-the-line model, the 4,800 cu. inch, expandible/contractible "Dr. Expando;" ..One reader wrote that the Rivendell Jensen pack has become the "most copied pack of all time," and pointed out that one company (Wilderness Experience) even named their soft pack the "ROR," translating to "Rip-off-Rivendell." http://www.oregonphotos.com/Don-Jensen.html
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/818390/Don-Jensen
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 25, 2018 - 07:58am PT
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J Do, breaking two of your rules here, all for the sake of commerce, WTF?
#1) carrying more gear than you need - what are we to make of all of your potty training threads about such things?
#2) slab climbing??? I thought real men only climb cracks … seriously inconsistent mentoring here.
(I may have to consider shelving my Splitter Camp merit badge …)
“Splitter Camps are designed to demystify crack climbing,” says camp director Jim Donini. While Splitter Camps are not for first-time climbers, they are intended to broaden horizons for sport, gym and occasional crack climbers. “When you learn techniques unique to crack climbing, you begin to look at face moves and plastic in a much different light,” encourages Donini. https://www.climbing.com/news/crack-yourself-up-at-splitter-camp/
Oh well, all good-natured ribbing aside,
How many of us TacoBenders™ have climbed either of the two routes at this un-heralded Yosemite crag, Nuts Only Cliff?
I went up there once, but it was too late in the day to start up either of these fine routes … or fine looking routes, I should say:
(IIRC, the approach took more time than anticipated, and we didn't navigate the most direct route)
 These are not your run-of-the-mill slab climbs ...
The wall is steep, striated, and the main features are cracks.
The face sections have NO bolts.
Catch-U FA: Steve Wunsch & John Bragg, 1974
W'allnuts FA: Steve Wunsch & Jim Donini, 1973
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Jamesthomsen
Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2018 - 04:53pm PT
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Tarbuster - First off you said the black and white catalog photo reminded you of the grassroots style that Chouinard used......and it should. That catalog was created by some Chouinard employees: Kris McDivitt, Val Franco and others. In those days Wilderness Experience made the Chouinard packs (except for the Ultimate Thule which was way too hard for us.)
Thank you for the eBay link, that's the first I've seen with a Cordura bottom and I ordered it.
Also interesting that the FA people on CatchU and W'allnuts were John Bragg, Steve Wunsch and Jim Donini ..... all salesmen for Wilderness Experience. We were the first outdoor company (in partnership with Snow Lion) that hired all active climbers as our sales force. What an incredible group of people to work with!
Robs......Thank You! I would love it!
Another Nickname - Wilderness Experience got it's start when the USA distributor for Sacs Millet, after having lots of delivery problems, asked us to create a line of packs he could sell instead. We did, but when we showed him the new line he said that Sacs Millet were going to guarantee good delivery so he didn't need them. Greg took them to West Ridge Sports and Don Lauria was the first person to order some. Thanks again Don!
And Finally, Jim Donini.... per our agreement, the part of our interview discussing what went on at the Drake Hotel will not be made public until 50 years after your death.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Oct 25, 2018 - 04:59pm PT
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Damn!! taco gold, thanks
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Jamesthomsen
Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2018 - 05:32pm PT
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Fritz,
Thanks for the Hong Kong Klettersack photo. These are made by a Japanese company who did legally obtain the trademark when it was not renewed by one of the companies later owners (maybe K2 or Marmot.) They are well made, but very expensive.
I'm gumby dammit - The quote sounds accurate....Greg will be excited to learn he was on a Pilgrimage and not a broke climber traveling the world.
Just to set the story right, here's Greg's view of his around the world trip:
https://vimeo.com/151722445
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 25, 2018 - 06:01pm PT
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James,
I'm sure I speak for many when I say it truly is an honor to have you here on the forum.
Also, much so on a personal level.
I was gifted one of those old black Singer sewing machines in 1977 on my 17th birthday, and was always interested in cobbling together my own stuff, as well as modifying everything in sight. I could never leave well enough alone: I'm sure you can relate!
That Chuck Roast rucksack I mentioned up thread: first it got a wraparound waist belt from a JanSport frame pack. I should have stopped there … then dewlaps, but those came off, because I couldn't figure out how to pattern them in such a way that I had a true wraparound design. So the holes got plugged up. Later it got a lid from the Chouinard Baltoro.
As a vintage enthusiast, the early to late 70s is my favorite era. Pretty much everything before fastex buckles. When we were in our teens, my earliest climbing partner and I, starting out in 1974, we didn't feel so much like consumers of all of those soft goods, but more like participants and fans. My first rucksack cost six dollars. It was private labeled for a European guy who had a shop called Mountain ‘N Air, in La Canada California. The body was made of yellow cotton duck, single buckle lid -- and it had those old school stamped felt padded shoulder straps, or maybe they were cut with pinking shears. The local mountain shop was a place to socialize and learn. The division between manufacturer/purveyor and purchaser was more fluid.
Everything about that time, the very grassroots nature of all of the players, the lean, simple, homespun but artful graphic layout of the advertisements, and the simplistic, lightweight aesthetic applied to all of the gear: there was a coziness to it. I still like that color palette: forest green, rescue orange, and French blue. It seemed much more like a family than it did like commerce, you know? Of course you do! You were at the epicenter of that sensibility.
That's an interesting tidbit: that you declined to produce the Ultimate Thule, due to the complexity.
‘Had a number of Snow Lion offerings. They were big into Polarguard. Innovations on their sleeping bags like the footsack were compelling. That box baffled Behring parka was something else. And Galen Rowell lent his photography to one of their catalogs, as I recall? Moonrise over the Eastern Sierra or something.
So you speak to cross pollination between outdoor specialty companies. It sure felt that way. Wilderness Experience, Sierra Designs, Alpine Designs, Class 5, Camp 7, Holubar, Gerry, Rivendell … Fer crissakes, I remember when The North Face was young! The American face of the industry was all of a piece.
Happy trails!
Roy
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Jamesthomsen
Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2018 - 06:30pm PT
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Roy,
Yes, those were incredible times. We were all young and convinced we could run companies. I'm still amazed at the amount of money we were able to borrow, being under 25, long hair, beards. And the trade shows were the gathering place. At the show we would try to convince retailers to buy our stuff, but at night all the manufacturers hung out together...we were all friends and it's amazing today that so many of my good friends are from those days.
Mountain 'N Air was owned by Gilberto d'Urso (and still is, but now he sells and publishes books.) Gil was the first Wilderness Experience Sales Representative - 1973. We was from Brazil. I just saw him at the premiere of the Fred Beckey movie.
Galen Rowell took many of the photos in our early catalogs...we even used him and Barbara as models.
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Jamesthomsen
Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2018 - 08:12pm PT
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Sport Chalet was one of our first dealers (after West Ridge.) My guess is late 1973 or early 1974.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 25, 2018 - 08:19pm PT
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When is the reunion? While we’re still here...I hope. It won’t be like Batista’s in Vegas or Larry’s place in Venice beach....unfortunately for us, 9:00 pm is the new midnight.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 26, 2018 - 08:02am PT
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Here you go, Robs Muir, an advertisement from your alma mater.
(Okay, I know you also went to actual school ...)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 26, 2018 - 08:13am PT
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More Wilderness Experience goodies from the way back machine.
That is, the way back machine of Jack Roberts' collection of MOUNTAIN magazines.
Thanks again, Pam!
And here's J Do, once again, or perhaps one of his compatriots ...
This time not pulling any puns whatsoever with the gear totage program:
Might we please get an ID on the climber and the route? How about a bedtime story?
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