Stop “comfortizing” routes with bolted belays!

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Mark Force

Trad climber

Ashland, Oregon

Sep 20, 2018 - 02:00pm PT

Grew into climbing in northern Arizona, BITD. A few bolts at Granite Mountain and none on the Flagstaff basalt - about as good as it gets cream of the crop basalt. No bolts there. And, no chalk. Loved that low key experience.

Now so much of it's a consumer "sport."

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber

Wilds of New Mexico

Sep 20, 2018 - 02:15pm PT

Me too Mark Force! Raised as a climber in Northern Az- I was leading 5.9-5.10 before I ever clipped a bolt!

johntp

Trad climber

Little Rock and Loving It

Sep 20, 2018 - 02:19pm PT

One such FA route I rapped off one rock jammed into a crack with a sling around it.

Once did a route in OK (don't remember the name of place). Found knotted slings jammed in the crack. Turns out the previous party forgot the rack but decided to climb anyway. Only time I've seen that in the US.

Flip Flop

climber

Earth Planet, Universe

Sep 25, 2018 - 09:39am PT

Aeriq

Social climber

Location: It's a MisterE

Sep 25, 2018 - 07:52pm PT

Stop “comfortizing” routes with bolted belays!

Stop trying to enforce your out-dated rules on the emerging paradigm?

:^) Miss ya, Jim.

Flip Flop

climber

Earth Planet, Universe

Sep 26, 2018 - 06:45am PT

Trying to exfoliate about 20 inches. Next we pour in a non-explosive demolition agent. Hopefully the 18000 psi expansion will pop the top.

Flip Flop

climber

Earth Planet, Universe

Sep 26, 2018 - 07:39pm PT

Probably. The building site is giant boulders in loose decomposed granite sand on a steep mountain side, above the lake. Everything is moving

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Sep 26, 2018 - 08:21pm PT

I once asked Tom Frost if along the way he had stood on one bolt and placed another as in a ladder. He thought about it for a bit and then grinned and said "I'll tell you one thing, I chopped more bolts than I ever placed." We both had a good laugh over that one!