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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 18, 2018 - 10:22am PT
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July 15, 2018 Steve Rathbun and I climbed a new route on Mt Starr King in Yosemite. We call it The Raven 5.8
The 3rd pitch goes up black rock then it turns to gold plates for hundreds of feet. Nine bolt holes were drilled. It is an awesome route now open to the public.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 18, 2018 - 10:24am PT
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So nice to name a route after Bellizzi
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 18, 2018 - 12:32pm PT
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Super cool. Is there pro/gear to be had on those 5.6 pitches? Or are they entirely blank?
Scott
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jul 18, 2018 - 12:36pm PT
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Nice. Thanks for establishing the route and sharing!
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2018 - 12:45pm PT
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Russ-what's a Bellizzi? is that some sort of pasta dish?
There is some pro on the 5.6 pitches. Bring about 14 cams from .5" to 3". I placed No wired nuts. Some belays require cams. It is possible to do the raps with one 60 meter rope.
Here is where it goes
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 18, 2018 - 01:00pm PT
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Sweet! Best post this year. Route looks juicy.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Jul 18, 2018 - 01:51pm PT
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Nice looking line. Nice hike in to Starr King too.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jul 18, 2018 - 01:56pm PT
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Looks fun!
There is some pro on the 5.6 pitches
My reading of the topo looks like the 5.6 pitches get pro in a crack in the middle of the pitch, with nothing else. Do the dotted lines mean unprotected face climbing or occasional gear that will hold a fall?
Maybe a more specific/germane question: how long of 5.6 run-outs should we be comfortable doing? multiple times of 50+ foot runouts?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 18, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
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Nice! I look forward to sampling your work.
John
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jul 18, 2018 - 03:14pm PT
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Nicely done klaus, looks like beautiful rock.
Named after/in honor of your firstborn?
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 18, 2018 - 03:41pm PT
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I have a hard time believing "some pro" is much pro from these kind of guys. This is coming from a guy with a route like Get Whacked on his resume.
I get scared on runout 5.6. Am I gonna Get Whacked on this thing?
What can I expect on those 5.6 and 5.7 sections. Is 30 feet common between pro.....that's kind of a big deal to a sissy like me but the route looks absolutely stoker!
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2018 - 04:03pm PT
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Get Whacked fell off last year, so it is gone. There are no sandbag ratings on Raven, however be prepared to run out 50+ feet on 5.6
The rock is the best quality I have ever seen in Yosemite. Yes, it is named after my daughter Raven. There are a pair of Ravens up there that will swoop down and eat any food you leave unattended.
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2018 - 04:09pm PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 18, 2018 - 04:29pm PT
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Looks sweet....good job!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:00pm PT
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Looks stellar, nice job getting it done. Did you guys do it car to car in a day? Where did you start the hike from?
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Todd Eastman
Social climber
Putney, VT
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:06pm PT
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Never more!
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chappy
Social climber
oakhurst
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:15pm PT
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Good job! Still can't believe I haven't summited Starr King yet. Especially as it was in my backyard for years! Still sort of is.
Perhaps this will be the route!
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:34pm PT
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Looks really fun, nice features from the photo. I have no idea about pro but many, many folks climb on the FlatIrons, many in over their heads, which is definitely runout 5.6-7 even on the most popular routes. I trust that the OP is being honest and from photos is a standard 5.8 with adventure and the pro is what is the standard for that type of fun. Great eye for a new line and great job putting in the effort to establish it. Be a 5.10 climber and you will enjoy.
Thanks for posting this Klaus!
S....
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jul 18, 2018 - 07:41pm PT
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Once upon a midday dreary, while I climbed, weak and weary,
Over many a quaint and curious volume of forgotten stone—
While I nodded, while belaying, suddenly there came a tapping,
Ha....we could go on but hey.....good job, I'll be checking it out!!!
Charlie D.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 19, 2018 - 07:36am PT
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Get Whacked fell off last year.
The rock is the best quality I have ever seen in Yosemite. Yes, it is named after my daughter Raven. There are a pair of Ravens up there that will swoop down and eat any food you leave unattended.
Too funny. And with a quote like that I GOTTA go get on this thing! Thanks so much for sharing the adventure and for the beta. I'll write a TR if/when we get back there!
Scott
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