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Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 18, 2018 - 10:22am PT
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July 15, 2018 Steve Rathbun and I climbed a new route on Mt Starr King in Yosemite. We call it The Raven 5.8
The 3rd pitch goes up black rock then it turns to gold plates for hundreds of feet. Nine bolt holes were drilled. It is an awesome route now open to the public.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 18, 2018 - 10:24am PT
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So nice to name a route after Bellizzi
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 18, 2018 - 12:32pm PT
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Super cool. Is there pro/gear to be had on those 5.6 pitches? Or are they entirely blank?
Scott
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jul 18, 2018 - 12:36pm PT
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Nice. Thanks for establishing the route and sharing!
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2018 - 12:45pm PT
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Russ-what's a Bellizzi? is that some sort of pasta dish?
There is some pro on the 5.6 pitches. Bring about 14 cams from .5" to 3". I placed No wired nuts. Some belays require cams. It is possible to do the raps with one 60 meter rope.
Here is where it goes
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 18, 2018 - 01:00pm PT
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Sweet! Best post this year. Route looks juicy.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Jul 18, 2018 - 01:51pm PT
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Nice looking line. Nice hike in to Starr King too.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jul 18, 2018 - 01:56pm PT
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Looks fun!
There is some pro on the 5.6 pitches
My reading of the topo looks like the 5.6 pitches get pro in a crack in the middle of the pitch, with nothing else. Do the dotted lines mean unprotected face climbing or occasional gear that will hold a fall?
Maybe a more specific/germane question: how long of 5.6 run-outs should we be comfortable doing? multiple times of 50+ foot runouts?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 18, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
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Nice! I look forward to sampling your work.
John
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jul 18, 2018 - 03:14pm PT
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Nicely done klaus, looks like beautiful rock.
Named after/in honor of your firstborn?
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 18, 2018 - 03:41pm PT
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I have a hard time believing "some pro" is much pro from these kind of guys. This is coming from a guy with a route like Get Whacked on his resume.
I get scared on runout 5.6. Am I gonna Get Whacked on this thing?
What can I expect on those 5.6 and 5.7 sections. Is 30 feet common between pro.....that's kind of a big deal to a sissy like me but the route looks absolutely stoker!
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2018 - 04:03pm PT
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Get Whacked fell off last year, so it is gone. There are no sandbag ratings on Raven, however be prepared to run out 50+ feet on 5.6
The rock is the best quality I have ever seen in Yosemite. Yes, it is named after my daughter Raven. There are a pair of Ravens up there that will swoop down and eat any food you leave unattended.
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2018 - 04:09pm PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 18, 2018 - 04:29pm PT
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Looks sweet....good job!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:00pm PT
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Looks stellar, nice job getting it done. Did you guys do it car to car in a day? Where did you start the hike from?
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Todd Eastman
Social climber
Putney, VT
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:06pm PT
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Never more!
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chappy
Social climber
oakhurst
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:15pm PT
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Good job! Still can't believe I haven't summited Starr King yet. Especially as it was in my backyard for years! Still sort of is.
Perhaps this will be the route!
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Jul 18, 2018 - 05:34pm PT
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Looks really fun, nice features from the photo. I have no idea about pro but many, many folks climb on the FlatIrons, many in over their heads, which is definitely runout 5.6-7 even on the most popular routes. I trust that the OP is being honest and from photos is a standard 5.8 with adventure and the pro is what is the standard for that type of fun. Great eye for a new line and great job putting in the effort to establish it. Be a 5.10 climber and you will enjoy.
Thanks for posting this Klaus!
S....
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jul 18, 2018 - 07:41pm PT
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Once upon a midday dreary, while I climbed, weak and weary,
Over many a quaint and curious volume of forgotten stone—
While I nodded, while belaying, suddenly there came a tapping,
Ha....we could go on but hey.....good job, I'll be checking it out!!!
Charlie D.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 19, 2018 - 07:36am PT
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Get Whacked fell off last year.
The rock is the best quality I have ever seen in Yosemite. Yes, it is named after my daughter Raven. There are a pair of Ravens up there that will swoop down and eat any food you leave unattended.
Too funny. And with a quote like that I GOTTA go get on this thing! Thanks so much for sharing the adventure and for the beta. I'll write a TR if/when we get back there!
Scott
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jul 19, 2018 - 09:58am PT
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thanks for the inspirationThomas Starr King (December 17, 1824 – March 4, 1864) was an American Universalist and Unitarian minister, influential in California politics during the American Civil War, and Freemason. Starr King spoke zealously in favor of the Union and was credited by Abraham Lincoln with preventing California from becoming a separate republic. He is sometimes referred to as "the orator who saved the nation.
Early life
He was born on December 17, 1824, in New York City to Rev. Thomas Farrington King, a Universalist minister, and Susan Starr King. The sole support of his family at 15, he was forced to leave school. Inspired by men like Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry Ward Beecher, King embarked on a program of self-study for the ministry. At the age of 20 he took over his father’s former pulpit at the Charlestown Universalist Church in Charlestown, Massachusetts.
Career
In 1849, he was appointed pastor of the Hollis Street Church in Boston, where he became one of the most famous preachers in New England. He vacationed in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and in 1859 published a book about the area entitled The White Hills; their Legends, Landscapes, & Poetry. In 1860 he accepted a call from the First Unitarian Church of San Francisco, California. In July of that year, he visited Yosemite and was moved spiritually by its splendor. Upon returning to San Francisco, he began preaching a series of sermons on Yosemite, published letters about it in the Boston Evening Transcript, and aligned himself with fellow abolitionist and landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmsted, to have Yosemite set aside as a reserve. Yosemite would become a California State Park and eventually a National park. Starr King joined the Freemasons and was raised to the sublime degree of Master Mason in Oriental Lodge No. 144 in San Francisco, now Phoenix Lodge No. 144, and served as grand orator of the Grand Lodge of California in 1863.
Starr King's younger brother, Edward Starr King, served as captain of the clipper ship Syren. Capt. Starr King arrived in San Francisco aboard Syren just two days after his elder brother's stirring 1861 speech about Washington and the Union, remarking, "Starr has the brains of the family, and I the brawn."
Plaque at Thomas Starr King sarcophagus.
During the Civil War, Starr King spoke zealously in favor of the Union and was credited by Abraham Lincoln with preventing California from becoming a separate republic. At the urging of Jessie Benton Frémont, Starr King teamed up with writer Bret Harte, and Starr King read Harte's patriotic poems at pro-Union speeches. Starr King also read original verses by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow and James Russell Lowell which captured the imagination of the Californians. In a letter by Starr King wrote to James T. Fields, the editor of the Atlantic Monthly, "The state must be Northernized thoroughly, by schools, Atlantic Monthlies, lectures, N.E. preachers."
In addition, he organized the Pacific Branch of the United States Sanitary Commission, which raised money and medical materials for wounded soldiers and was the predecessor to the American Red Cross. A fiery orator, he raised more than $1.5 million for the Sanitary Commission headquarters in New York City, one-fifth of the total contributions from all the states in the Union.
Sarcophagus of Thomas Starr King in San Francisco
Death
The relentless lecture circuit exhausted him, and he died in San Francisco on March 4, 1864, of diphtheria and pneumonia. His dying words were said to be, "Keep my memory green." Over twenty thousand people attended his funeral and several of his friends including Charles Stoddard, Bret Harte and Ina Coolbrith published tributes. King is interred at First Unitarian Church of San Francisco between Starr King and Geary Streets in San Francisco. In the 1940s, most of San Francisco's dead were disinterred and moved to new resting places outside city limits; the grave of Starr King was one of the very few allowed to remain undisturbed.
from wiki. we need a mouse in the house
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 11:36am PT
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my first attempt to rope solo it. got shut down by thunderstorms
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Jul 19, 2018 - 11:52am PT
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Looks very similar to a route we did on West Fuller Butte ('Muccismo' 5.9, 8 pitches) a few years back. Same sitch.....be prepared for big runouts on 5.6/5.7 terrain. However, the quality of granite is fantastic and inspires confidence when running it out. I'll put this one on my list to go check out.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 19, 2018 - 12:43pm PT
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I know this has all been hashed out before on other Starr King threads, but what is the camping like?
1. How far from your camp to the base of the route and about how long in time is the walk?
2. What is the water scene? Are you camped near water or is it dry camping?
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Jul 19, 2018 - 02:41pm PT
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I have a hard time believing "some pro" is much pro from these kind of guys.
I climbed a line not far left of this new route and can tell you that the rock up there lends itself to natural pro (cams, nuts, slung knobs) quite well. Super featured rock, and because it is relatively easy climbing, you can zig-zag a bit to put in more pro if you like. Some of the easier climbing is like 5.2 (whatever that is) with 5.6 crux. Not scary at all.
While climbing I remember looking right at all that cool featured rock- acres of it!
You can camp near a small stream not far from Starr King (close to Dome Baez). Think about bringing a bear can for your food. Clint hung up his bag of Top Ramen and Cosmic Brownies from a tree branch and the ravens ate it all while were were climbing.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jul 19, 2018 - 02:59pm PT
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That first pic of the 4th pitch looks flat out awesome. It's calling to my hands and feet to touch it.
Best of SuperTopo thread for sure!
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 03:53pm PT
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from the middle of pitch 4 looking up. Beautiful rock everywhere
Thanks Clint for posting that info. the spring near the campsite it about dry now so plan accordingly.
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2018 - 11:42am PT
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A few people asked what the gear list is so I updated the topo to include it:
Here is the gear I placed on the whole route. Also many more biners and slings not pictured.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Aug 15, 2018 - 09:39am PT
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awesome work guys
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 15, 2018 - 09:56am PT
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Bravo, guys!
And thanks.
This looks eerily like the classic South Face route on Charlotte Dome. Same length, too. Except that, somehow, Starr King is so much less well-known than Charlotte Dome -- one of the most under-appreciated outcrops in the Park. And only in Yosemite could Starr King be called an "outcrop."
Klaus knows quality; he's got the eye. Badass routes on the South Face of Half Dome, right? Somehow, also another under-appreciated "crag."
Thanks again!
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Impaler
Social climber
San Francisco
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:35am PT
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That looks sweet!!! Nice work Klaus! Can't wait for my son to grow up so I could go climb that with him.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Aug 15, 2018 - 01:17pm PT
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Booyah, Dr. Klaus. Looks so good.
BAd
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Aug 15, 2018 - 01:33pm PT
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Cool lookin' route. "Best rock quality in Yosemite" was a memorable part of the description. I love that area and have visited it many times.
Camping-wise, I have had a nice experience numerous times camping just above Illouette Creek near a boulder, across the water and just downstream of the trail building camp that is on the west side of the creek. Bomber. This area is directly reached by the Mono Meadow entry point...
There was a lovely double bed on top of the peak, just off the west side of the summit some years ago. 8 foot square flat sandy spot. That was a rare site to enjoy..
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Proud line, K.
Loved it back in here BITD.
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WBraun
climber
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Mt Starr King new route
How many six packs of Old English did that require?
Didn't we free solo that during that search for that dude who lost his leg due to frostbite back there ....?
The Fish can remember that search?
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