Mt Starr King new route: The Raven

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hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Jul 19, 2018 - 09:58am PT
thanks for the inspiration
Thomas Starr King (December 17, 1824 – March 4, 1864) was an American Universalist and Unitarian minister, influential in California politics during the American Civil War, and Freemason. Starr King spoke zealously in favor of the Union and was credited by Abraham Lincoln with preventing California from becoming a separate republic. He is sometimes referred to as "the orator who saved the nation.

Early life
He was born on December 17, 1824, in New York City to Rev. Thomas Farrington King, a Universalist minister, and Susan Starr King. The sole support of his family at 15, he was forced to leave school. Inspired by men like Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry Ward Beecher, King embarked on a program of self-study for the ministry. At the age of 20 he took over his father’s former pulpit at the Charlestown Universalist Church in Charlestown, Massachusetts.

Career
In 1849, he was appointed pastor of the Hollis Street Church in Boston, where he became one of the most famous preachers in New England. He vacationed in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and in 1859 published a book about the area entitled The White Hills; their Legends, Landscapes, & Poetry. In 1860 he accepted a call from the First Unitarian Church of San Francisco, California. In July of that year, he visited Yosemite and was moved spiritually by its splendor. Upon returning to San Francisco, he began preaching a series of sermons on Yosemite, published letters about it in the Boston Evening Transcript, and aligned himself with fellow abolitionist and landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmsted, to have Yosemite set aside as a reserve. Yosemite would become a California State Park and eventually a National park. Starr King joined the Freemasons and was raised to the sublime degree of Master Mason in Oriental Lodge No. 144 in San Francisco, now Phoenix Lodge No. 144, and served as grand orator of the Grand Lodge of California in 1863.

Starr King's younger brother, Edward Starr King, served as captain of the clipper ship Syren. Capt. Starr King arrived in San Francisco aboard Syren just two days after his elder brother's stirring 1861 speech about Washington and the Union, remarking, "Starr has the brains of the family, and I the brawn."

Plaque at Thomas Starr King sarcophagus.
During the Civil War, Starr King spoke zealously in favor of the Union and was credited by Abraham Lincoln with preventing California from becoming a separate republic. At the urging of Jessie Benton Frémont, Starr King teamed up with writer Bret Harte, and Starr King read Harte's patriotic poems at pro-Union speeches. Starr King also read original verses by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow and James Russell Lowell which captured the imagination of the Californians. In a letter by Starr King wrote to James T. Fields, the editor of the Atlantic Monthly, "The state must be Northernized thoroughly, by schools, Atlantic Monthlies, lectures, N.E. preachers."

In addition, he organized the Pacific Branch of the United States Sanitary Commission, which raised money and medical materials for wounded soldiers and was the predecessor to the American Red Cross. A fiery orator, he raised more than $1.5 million for the Sanitary Commission headquarters in New York City, one-fifth of the total contributions from all the states in the Union.


Sarcophagus of Thomas Starr King in San Francisco
Death
The relentless lecture circuit exhausted him, and he died in San Francisco on March 4, 1864, of diphtheria and pneumonia. His dying words were said to be, "Keep my memory green." Over twenty thousand people attended his funeral and several of his friends including Charles Stoddard, Bret Harte and Ina Coolbrith published tributes. King is interred at First Unitarian Church of San Francisco between Starr King and Geary Streets in San Francisco. In the 1940s, most of San Francisco's dead were disinterred and moved to new resting places outside city limits; the grave of Starr King was one of the very few allowed to remain undisturbed.

from wiki. we need a mouse in the house
klaus

Ice climber
6th and Mission
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 11:36am PT
my first attempt to rope solo it. got shut down by thunderstorms
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Jul 19, 2018 - 11:52am PT
Looks very similar to a route we did on West Fuller Butte ('Muccismo' 5.9, 8 pitches) a few years back. Same sitch.....be prepared for big runouts on 5.6/5.7 terrain. However, the quality of granite is fantastic and inspires confidence when running it out. I'll put this one on my list to go check out.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Jul 19, 2018 - 12:43pm PT
I know this has all been hashed out before on other Starr King threads, but what is the camping like?

1. How far from your camp to the base of the route and about how long in time is the walk?

2. What is the water scene? Are you camped near water or is it dry camping?

cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Jul 19, 2018 - 02:41pm PT
I have a hard time believing "some pro" is much pro from these kind of guys.

I climbed a line not far left of this new route and can tell you that the rock up there lends itself to natural pro (cams, nuts, slung knobs) quite well. Super featured rock, and because it is relatively easy climbing, you can zig-zag a bit to put in more pro if you like. Some of the easier climbing is like 5.2 (whatever that is) with 5.6 crux. Not scary at all.

While climbing I remember looking right at all that cool featured rock- acres of it!

You can camp near a small stream not far from Starr King (close to Dome Baez). Think about bringing a bear can for your food. Clint hung up his bag of Top Ramen and Cosmic Brownies from a tree branch and the ravens ate it all while were were climbing.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 19, 2018 - 02:51pm PT
The Raven goes up between West Flake and the SW Face
from
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1850876/Bolt-replacement-Mt-Starr-King
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jul 19, 2018 - 02:59pm PT
That first pic of the 4th pitch looks flat out awesome. It's calling to my hands and feet to touch it.

Best of SuperTopo thread for sure!
klaus

Ice climber
6th and Mission
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 03:53pm PT
from the middle of pitch 4 looking up. Beautiful rock everywhere
Thanks Clint for posting that info. the spring near the campsite it about dry now so plan accordingly.
klaus

Ice climber
6th and Mission
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2018 - 11:42am PT
A few people asked what the gear list is so I updated the topo to include it:
Here is the gear I placed on the whole route. Also many more biners and slings not pictured.

msiddens

Trad climber
Aug 15, 2018 - 09:39am PT
awesome work guys
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Aug 15, 2018 - 09:56am PT
Bravo, guys!

And thanks.

This looks eerily like the classic South Face route on Charlotte Dome. Same length, too. Except that, somehow, Starr King is so much less well-known than Charlotte Dome -- one of the most under-appreciated outcrops in the Park. And only in Yosemite could Starr King be called an "outcrop."

Klaus knows quality; he's got the eye. Badass routes on the South Face of Half Dome, right? Somehow, also another under-appreciated "crag."

Thanks again!
Impaler

Social climber
San Francisco
Aug 15, 2018 - 10:35am PT
That looks sweet!!! Nice work Klaus! Can't wait for my son to grow up so I could go climb that with him.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Aug 15, 2018 - 01:17pm PT
Booyah, Dr. Klaus. Looks so good.

BAd
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Aug 15, 2018 - 01:33pm PT
Cool lookin' route. "Best rock quality in Yosemite" was a memorable part of the description. I love that area and have visited it many times.

Camping-wise, I have had a nice experience numerous times camping just above Illouette Creek near a boulder, across the water and just downstream of the trail building camp that is on the west side of the creek. Bomber. This area is directly reached by the Mono Meadow entry point...

There was a lovely double bed on top of the peak, just off the west side of the summit some years ago. 8 foot square flat sandy spot. That was a rare site to enjoy..


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 8, 2019 - 07:13am PT
Proud line, K.

Loved it back in here BITD.
WBraun

climber
Feb 8, 2019 - 07:22am PT
Mt Starr King new route

How many six packs of Old English did that require?

Didn't we free solo that during that search for that dude who lost his leg due to frostbite back there ....?

The Fish can remember that search?
Messages 21 - 36 of total 36 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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