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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 21, 2018 - 05:35pm PT
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Now I don't feel so bad about having difficulties on 5.10
5.10 A0 is the new 5.11
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 21, 2018 - 09:04pm PT
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Very few can claim to be 5.11 climbers in all disciplines of rock climbing.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 22, 2018 - 07:56am PT
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yeah never got that good at the why'd (bother?) offal filled, awfulwidth
I'm no longer an off the couch 5.12b climber...Now I'm a hang-my-way-up YO-YO.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 22, 2018 - 10:32am PT
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Best comment heard in a gym "Ya I'm breaking into 5.11"
I thought "I know of more than a few 5.9s you would freak on"
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 22, 2018 - 01:00pm PT
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Very few can claim to be 5.11 climbers in all disciplines of rock climbing.
True. I suck at crack, face, slab, and off-width climbing; it's a wonder I've even found stuff to climb all these years.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Apr 22, 2018 - 01:31pm PT
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There is a subjective versus objective element to be considered. Sure, the ratings are supposedly objective, but are they really?
If a climb feels as hard as you remember 5.11 to be, isn't it still 5.11 ... at least subjectively ... or to you?
If you think it feels like 5.11, how's that any different from the "real" thing? Isn't your experience still "5.11?"
Adopt this attitude: "Never give up" ... and then you can climb "5.11" till the day you die ... just by giving life your all.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Apr 22, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
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The 10’s are still fun . . .
I have to chuckle at this. I remember how hard it was to break into the realm of 5.10 back in the 1950s in America.
"It has frequently been noticed that all mountains appear doomed to pass through the three stages: An inaccessible peak - The most difficult ascent in the Alps - An easy day for a lady."
— Albert Frederick Mummery, My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Apr 24, 2018 - 11:52am PT
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I've done numerous 5.11s, but none without at least one fall. Sometimes its strength and stamina that fail you, other times its figuring out the moves. They are more technical than physically hard.
That's my mantra and I just keep repeating it to myself as I keep slipping into the 5.8-5.9 range (on a good day). But, not done trying. (I'm turning 63 this summer.)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 24, 2018 - 12:38pm PT
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Well, it ain't about how well you do something, but how you look doing it!
And we can only hope you look marvelous George, just marvelous!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 14, 2018 - 08:08pm PT
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Well it looks like your still a pretty solid 5.10+ climber. Grug cruising outer space last night.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Jun 14, 2018 - 08:53pm PT
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Maybe you are selling yourself short thinking being a 5.11 climber was your high point.
Maybe you have other talents you have neglected.
Just rember to go bike riding or skiing so you don't get fat and you'll be fine.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 15, 2018 - 06:19am PT
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If you act to be perceived a certain way will the outcome satisfy? Can the same joy be had in the personal challenge or must it compare? Which is more significant: Experience or accomplishment?
Not sure any of these things is exclusive- I love to think back on what I did and I also groove on what I'm doing. I was always a sucker for feeling bad for not making the cut. Nowadays at 59, I'm totally happy just getting out and getting after it. Getting after anything!
Don't climb 5.11 anymore but yesterday, climbing with my son- I was loving the burn in the forearms and pulling on the moves and thinking about the how.
Funny story: had a bad Pneumonia- left side filled up with fluid so when I inhaled half my chest wouldn't budge. Got it cleared up, but now, when I'm on the mope, I think back to those days and I'm so thankful just to be able to take a full breath.
still-- it would kick ass to be able to climb 5.11-because it's really fun to be that good at something, plus what good is it being rich if you have no one to be rich at?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jun 15, 2018 - 12:20pm PT
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Maybe it's an old school thing but it's an old school thing a believe in firmly. Don't call yourself a 5.whatever climber unless you very rarely fall at that grade. hmmmm. i've never fallen on a 5.12...
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