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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 16, 2018 - 04:15pm PT
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I just have to fess up. A 5.11 climber is someone who can on-sight 5.11 more often than not. I am no longer he or she. I haven't given up on getting back there. I'm not far off. Fifteen percent more intestinal fortitude would probably get me there. On the other hand, I realistically haven't been there for several years (I'm 61).
Bless me Father, for I have sinned. It has been several years' since my last confession. These are my sins. -- For the life of me, Father, 5.11 seems hard as shit!
For my entire adult life, I have identified with being a 5.11 climber. I know that the grades continue to advance, but I would have to think that the majority of climbers still respect 5.11. It made me feel special when other parts of my life were not going so well. I just always thought that I would be able to climb 5.11. Alas!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 16, 2018 - 04:17pm PT
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Even if you 'were' a 5.11 climber. That can never be taken away.
I've been able to scare myself silly on climbs. No one can ever take that away, but I may not do it anymore on hard moves. :)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 04:22pm PT
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I'm with you, Munge!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 04:30pm PT
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Offwidths not included.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Apr 16, 2018 - 04:35pm PT
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I can relate.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Apr 16, 2018 - 04:39pm PT
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Namaste. I was never completely there.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 16, 2018 - 04:46pm PT
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But lest us fall to the path of slothfulness, what all are you doing to work on fitness?
I'll be out running in about 15 minutes.
Make it happen!
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ruppell
climber
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Apr 16, 2018 - 04:56pm PT
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A 5.11 climber is someone who can on-sight 5.11 more often than not
It's refreshing to here some people still believe that. To me it's to onsight 90% or better, regardless of type of climbing, to be a climber of any given grade.
I can't count the number of 5.whatever climbers I've watched bolt to bolt and hang on that same grade over the last few years. It's insane.
Maybe it's an old school thing but it's an old school thing a believe in firmly. Don't call yourself a 5.whatever climber unless you very rarely fall at that grade.
End rant. lol
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Apr 16, 2018 - 05:00pm PT
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Dial it back a little when you have to...
And have some fun in the sun...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
...I'm 61 too!
Edit: Cr@p I'm 62, but what is age but a number! : )
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Apr 16, 2018 - 05:08pm PT
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Eeyonkee, I do respect 5.11 climbers and I certainly respect you. Somehow your name came up yesterday and Daphne and I were saying to each other what a nice person you are.
You may or may not ever consistently be a 5.11 climber again but nobody who knows you will ever give a s$&t. They just want you to be the partner and friend you always were and always will be.
But I think you’ll get back there.
Phyl (posting from a rest day in Las Vegas)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 05:08pm PT
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You're right, Tami. I'm not saying that I am somehow how stuck on this. I'm just noting a realization of mine. I'm trying to put it in perspective based on my personal history. My thought in posting this was that I'll bet there are many like me.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 16, 2018 - 05:25pm PT
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Think of it as a flying license. Yer license is gud for life, but ya needs a current medical to use it.
Oh, and ‘current medical’ means yer head, too. 🤪
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Apr 16, 2018 - 05:30pm PT
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I gave that up a long time ago. As a pessimist I can always be pleasantly surprised now and then.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Apr 16, 2018 - 05:31pm PT
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You need to focus on What is Mind and forget this silly climbing nonsense. Leave that to Alex Puccio (watch her climb Holloway's Trice!)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 05:35pm PT
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You need to focus on What is Mind and forget this silly climbing nonsense. Leave that to Alex Puccio (watch her climb Holloway's Trice!) Easy for you to say:)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 16, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
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I led a pitch of 5.11 last June.
I'd call it C1.
I saw a 5.11 climber lead it a month earlier, also on aid, and took twice as long.
I might still have another wall solo left in me.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 16, 2018 - 05:42pm PT
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Climbing is st00pid anyways.
Only st00pid do it.
Oh wait I did it
So I must be the st00pid one ......
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
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And may I say Well said, WB (or may I call you, the Duck?)!
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Apr 16, 2018 - 05:48pm PT
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Tami,that saying “all is impermanent “to me is so true.
In my former life,when I was a young climber,one of my closest friends and climbing partner Thom would proclaim,during a climb mind you, “everything goes away”. Referring to rock being displaced or moved from previous seasons.
I would annually reply,”Everything in life is temporary “.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Apr 16, 2018 - 05:48pm PT
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I'll bet there are many like me.
I can easily give up 5.11. It was 5.10 that was a breakthrough grade for me in '72 and will be a notable loss on the way down, if I keep climbing that long. But time has been kind, too. I managed a couple 12a routes in a gym in the last month.
I will be glad if I can go hiking a few more times.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
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SomebodyAnybody! Thank you! Really, I'm so stupid (stoopid), I didn't even see that one. DUH!
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 16, 2018 - 05:53pm PT
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eeyonkee
You're not st00pid and I know you're joking.
But just remind you ..... you're a good man !!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2018 - 06:06pm PT
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I can easily give up 5.11.
That's what I am grappling with. Would you say the same of 5.10... 5.9?
I think of 5.10 as something that good athletes (in sports where lightness counts) could do first try; 5.11 is harder.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 16, 2018 - 06:28pm PT
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Eeyonkee, by your definition I was never a 5.11 climber, but I got up more than a few and even authored some. Man if I would have done the stuff you did I would be pretty proud. I did the Great Zot to Rewritten today with my son and he did all the hard pitches and it was super fun. If you are saying you need climbing partners for some practice pitches to get back to 5.11 just let me or jack know. I am doing the same thing on a long term basis. Keep climbing the easy stuff as I am sure you know is quite fun too.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Apr 16, 2018 - 06:30pm PT
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The thing that matters to me the most is that “ you are a climber “. And you bring something to the scene. Grades don’t mean shite! Cheers
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 16, 2018 - 06:53pm PT
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The thing that matters to me the most is that “ you are a climber “. And you bring something to the scene. Grades don’t mean shite! heers
And, in the end, there are only two grades anyway. Either you can get up it, or you can't. Whatever number is attached in some book isn't the point.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Apr 16, 2018 - 07:05pm PT
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How True,cheers Ghost !
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Apr 16, 2018 - 07:31pm PT
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I recognize on a considered level that grades are not the point. I formed a deep appreciation for their significance at the Gunks long ago and have no need to free myself from that appreciation.
I think of 5.10 as something that good athletes (in sports where lightness counts) could do first try; 5.11 is harder.
When I started out, you were a hardman if you climbed 5.8 and a god if you could do 5.10. There were no 5.11s in the guide.
It is much different, now.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Apr 16, 2018 - 07:33pm PT
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What....?
Grades don't matter?
And, now you tell me?
Damn!!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Apr 16, 2018 - 07:43pm PT
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what a puss- - -
I guess you can always just go back to free soloing groundbreaking 10a grade IVs.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 16, 2018 - 08:13pm PT
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I never wuz one. . .
(though I did do a couple of easy '11's clipping bolts--don't
tell anybody)!!!
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Apr 16, 2018 - 08:25pm PT
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As a fellow 70s Poway High grad, and long time admirer of your climbing, Greg, you'll always have my respect--5.11 w/grunts and groans, or not.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Apr 16, 2018 - 08:36pm PT
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eeyonkee, i used to climb 5.14, but now it is a project to climb 12a. the thing is...if i pick something hard for me, that i have to dig in for, it doesn't matter the grade...as long as i am still pushing my limits. and by the grunting and whimpering i do on lead now, there is no question i am pushing it, and that keeps me motivated and happy.
just pick hard 5.10 projects for yourself and get grunty, its so fun . steve schneider
i'm 57 by the way
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couchmaster
climber
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Apr 16, 2018 - 09:30pm PT
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MEH. Kids today warm up and then do laps on what I use to think were test pieces in days of olde and was proud to have gotten up. It's nothing to get wrapped up in.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Apr 16, 2018 - 10:49pm PT
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I think I might once have been a 5.11 climber, but as I get older, the grades float away like dandelion seeds on the wind. They flit about in the fields of memory, close enough to touch, and yet far away.
If you keep at it, a climbing career is like a bell curve, and I'm pretty far out on one of the tails. Many are doing better, even more have left the field of battle or indeed this earthly realm.
The day Jesse Owens died, a commercial he made mistakenly aired. He said, in hindsight rather prophetically, "Hi, I'm Jesse Owens. I used to be the world's fastest human, but now I'm moving at a slower pace."
My slower pace is not yet the final one Jesse inadvertently announced, and while it lasts, it is full of the same delights and challenges that motivated the sprints my youth. I've come to realize that as a climber, I was a romantic and a sensualist far more than an achiever, and now that achievement is no longer much of an issue, the smell of the rock, its feel under my fingers, the way the rubber-shod foot, guided by a half-century of experience, settles into scoops and divots, these things make me happy and at peace.
I wouldn't complain if I could climb harder, but all things considered, it is a privilege and a blessing to be still doddering about at all. So good bye and fare thee well to those now-hazy days of 5.11 and beyond, I'm off to grovel up something much easier---but no less joyful, no less satisfying; being granted another day on the hill is all I could possibly ask for.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Apr 16, 2018 - 11:01pm PT
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Fortunately there are a lot of good 5.10s out there!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 17, 2018 - 02:11am PT
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In good years I manage it for a couple of weeks before it starts raining again.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Apr 17, 2018 - 03:19am PT
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on occasion it feels like i've cobbled together a functional stride.
that's when my mind races ahead to dreams of jumping sharks
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Apr 17, 2018 - 05:57am PT
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I was talking to an extremely well known climber the other day, who is 81. In his day he did 1st ascents all over the US; including the Diamond etc. He was complaining that he couldn't do a 5.6 that he had led many times. Such for the slow decline. I take satisfaction that many climbs I did years ago have been upgraded a notch. I didn't realize that I climbed that hard in my youth!
I turn 72 in July, and last October I did the NEB on HCR in Yosemite, for the last time. It's hard to except aging!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Apr 17, 2018 - 06:04am PT
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Don’t cry when it’s over, smile because it happened - Dr. Suess
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 17, 2018 - 06:50am PT
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I am on the cusp of 75 and I still climb actively. The piece of rock architecture that I choose to puzzle out has no idea of the arbitrary number attached to it. Enjoy the movement and the beauty of where you are...leave the arithmetic at home.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 17, 2018 - 07:27am PT
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Yes to Mr. D. Never have been Joe 5.11. I don't have the world's greatest connective tissue, and whenever I'd start to break into 11's, I'd pull something that would set me back. I'd say that 5.10 is pretty dang hard, too, and I think there are very few TRUE 5.10 climbers, that is folks who can send all styles at that grade--slab, face, fingers, hands, OW, chimney, the whole bucket load of styles. I had a good day in the Gorge a couple of weeks ago and sent a 10d proud and clean. I'd TR'd it once over a year ago, so can't claim an on-sight, but I'm hoping to on-sight some sport climbs in that range this year. Since I'm privileged to live in Bishop, for the first time in my life, I've got regular access to good climbing, which is helping a lot. Mostly, I'm just really, really happy to get out, tie in, and move up some steep, beautiful rock.
BAd
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2018 - 07:31am PT
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I mean this in the nicest possible way,
But, Greg, you're naivety is at times, astounding.
At 61, that you are even entertaining this quandary is a testament to the fact that you're doing pretty goddamn well in the genetic lottery.
While some of us are riddled with tendinitis and arthritis and can't write with a pen or pencil without paying serious fines, who enjoy the ability just to walk for half an hour at a crack every few days, for whom 5.6 is a once a year, or once every three years, highly sentimental kind of error, and for whom rock shoes are a serious no-no ... WTF, over!
Cripes!
... Engage in a little caloric restriction, peel back on the beer intake, clue into an aerobic fitness program, say bye-bye to some of those extra pounds, like dandelion seeds in the wind, and start floating back up that 5.11 sh#t to your heart’s content! You got this!!!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 17, 2018 - 07:44am PT
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You can still be 5.11!!!! for almost the rest of your life
All you have to do is do something you love at the same level, grade 5.11
I do 5.11d cactus and succulents, and 5.11b mineral collecting
You got to keep the passion of adventure and expertise alive just like when you climbed during your best days
why not?
It's all in your head, it's just a mental state that extreme physical feats were able to provide
you can have those same mental states with out flexing a muscle
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 17, 2018 - 07:57am PT
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^^^^ Just see the crazy cult of climbers grading their own mental speculations ..... ^^^^
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Apr 17, 2018 - 08:01am PT
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This thread could link up with PTPP’s recent lament about the state of ST (“no longer about hard climbing” or hard climbers).
eeyonkee: For my entire adult life, I have identified with being a 5.11 climber.
I would say that you’re undoubtably much much more than that. The sins of your confession lie in thinking that you are this or that. I should assume you are multitudes.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Apr 17, 2018 - 08:56am PT
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I was barely leading 5.11s back in the early 1980s, when I was at my peak athletically, and before I got hurt. 5.11 was really f-ing hard.
I never understood how other people could just leisurely fly up 5.11s without even breathing hard, when I had to struggle so much. And I was climbing every day.
To this day, it still makes me feel inferior. I never got over it.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 17, 2018 - 10:10am PT
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Was out at Josh recently and climbed an easy .10 - on a top rope - and it felt like 5.11. Took me 40 years to realize the biggest thrill was just to be out there at all, where "the lone and level sands stretch far away."
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rbolton
Social climber
The home.
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Apr 17, 2018 - 10:17am PT
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The big question is are you having fun?
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Apr 17, 2018 - 10:23am PT
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I am 57 years old today. The way I see it, any day out in a beautiful place, (that excludes gyms) with a fun partner is a gift.
I recently enjoyed a day out with an old pal who is undergoing treatment for an aggressive form of cancer. Just to be out in the sun and off the deck a few hundred feet looking over Eldo was an especially fine gift that will be one of the best climbing days for me ever.
Thirty years ago, I had no idea that I would ever say that about a 5.8 route.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 17, 2018 - 10:58am PT
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I don't mind not getting up other people's routes; kind of hate not getting up my own.
Have kept my weight down this winter, but am not very strong and so on getting out for the second time this spring I whipped twice on a 10b of mine which I have blindfold-wired down to the millimeter and never fallen on. That was certainly sobering enough. Both times I'd done the dyno to a saddlehorn-like feature and then couldn't do a damn thing with it either time, not another frigging inch. Went out the following week and it was casual again, must have been first time out nerves or something. Kind of a wake-up call either way for sure and just happy to be getting out whenever I can, which isn't very often due to work.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2018 - 11:11am PT
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Don't get me wrong. I'm not crying about this. Fact is, I never really wanted to climb harder than 5.11 either, so I was not a numbers chaser. I just always figured that 5.11 (including some 5.11+) was the grade you needed to be at to do many of the great all-day routes in the Valley and particularly in the Black Canyon. I'll still be doing 5.11s in the Black Canyon. I just may not be doing them in the style I'd like to.
I gotta say, 5.11 in Eldorado Canyon has been my nemesis of late.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 17, 2018 - 11:32am PT
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...this spring I whipped twice on a 10b of mine which I have blindfold-wired down to the millimeter and never fallen on.
Reminds me of a day at Indian Rock in Berkeley a while back. I was climbing there with Al Steck -- my first visit to the crag and his ten-thousandth. We strung a top rope on something and Allen, who was probably approaching 80 at the time, took off upwards, totally in cruise-control mode. And then suddenly he was flying.
After a bit of cussing, he jumped back on and immediately came flying off at the same point.
No cussing this time, but instead he's hanging in mid-air looking up thoughtfully and wondering aloud why he can't reach that hold. Then finally... "Oh, right. I used to be taller."
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 17, 2018 - 11:35am PT
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Good one, that place is a monument unto itself.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Apr 17, 2018 - 11:45am PT
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Apr 17, 2018 - 03:40pm PT
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Why even bother? Time and talent have passed us by significantly. Just scramble up any old rock and forget ratings.
https://vimeo.com/6349049
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Apr 17, 2018 - 03:48pm PT
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^^^^^^^^
Hey, she's going to Hueco! I heard they have like 500 problems in the V0 to V4 range. Sounds good to me.
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Trump
climber
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Apr 17, 2018 - 06:35pm PT
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Dayenu.
61? Nicely done! What’s 5.11 anyway, 5.10b old skooll?
Might be getting time to redefine your identity, and you might find that harder than climbing 5.11. Thanks for your post, and best wishes regardless!
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Apr 17, 2018 - 07:12pm PT
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Well if it makes you feel any better you were not a 5.11 climber when you started so you shouldn't expect to be one when you finished.
Have you considered a new hobby?
Maybe you could set your goals higher in your old age, you could be a 5.11 gardener or a 5.11 dancer, the world is your 5.11 oyster.
Stop bitching about what you were and start living again with new goals.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Apr 18, 2018 - 01:19pm PT
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Greg,
If it’s any consolation, neither am I.
Although I still like to climb, how well I do or don’t climb no longer defines who I think I am.
There is more to life than climbing.
PB
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 18, 2018 - 03:39pm PT
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There is more to life than climbing. Screw that, ha ha!
Get out there and carry the torch for us, Eee-Yonnn-Keeee !!!
And don't forget to post up the pics!
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DanaB
climber
CO
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Apr 18, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
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Just got back from climbing an hour or so ago. On-sighted several 11as, and a 10b, couldn't do another 11a or a 10c. I can tell you what I felt/thought, I'd struggle to give an answer or a conclusion. Maybe the facts do that.
I really enjoyed what I did, and it was fun finishing things that made me work.
As always, the movement of climbing felt very, very good.
Maybe I can do those unfinished routes another time. If not, there were at least 5-6 others that looked great.
I'm closer to 67 than 66. I'm going to keep climbing and continue to try challenging routes.
If I can't, there are other things in my life.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2018 - 05:18pm PT
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Hey thanks everybody! I have seen the light. Turns out, I was a bit of a hacky-sack prodigy in my youth (before there were rules). I'm thinking, hacky-sack doesn't require the forearm strength of climbing. Hacky-sack may be my salvation.
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L
climber
A place where Blue is the new Black...
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Apr 18, 2018 - 05:21pm PT
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Hacky-sack may be my salvation.
I just peed my panties.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Apr 18, 2018 - 05:49pm PT
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I was a bit of a hacky-sack prodigy in my youth
Please translate.
5.11 hacky-sack? Above? Below?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2018 - 05:52pm PT
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I just peed my panties.
That means a lot to me, L, as I am a fan of your comedy.
Tarbuster, I know that you would still be at it like me, but climbing at a higher level, no doubt.
Tom Patterson; thanks for your post. I really hope that we can climb together at some point.
Chief; read what Tarbuster wrote:)
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Apr 18, 2018 - 06:39pm PT
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Great thread man,there are more in your camp than I would have thought.
Cheers
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 18, 2018 - 06:47pm PT
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I was 5.10c at best at hacky sack
too lanky, and just not quick enough
5.11 hacky sack kicks ass!!
in an 80's kind of way
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 18, 2018 - 08:05pm PT
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Careful with 5.11 hacky sack. You can pull a groin or throw out a knee.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 18, 2018 - 08:59pm PT
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Hacky sack.....better than jeeping but just by a whisker.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 18, 2018 - 10:23pm PT
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Can still lay, sit, stand, walk, and turn on a really hard cranked-down 10mm. Juggling, however, is probably way, way out the window and gone.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 19, 2018 - 03:19am PT
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Labels.....
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 19, 2018 - 04:04am PT
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More like stickers I think.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Apr 19, 2018 - 06:34am PT
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FRED WOLF: MY GRANDMOTHER, THE BEAUTY QUEEN
When she was like 17 or 18 years old, she won a beauty contest back in Pennsylvania. She ran like three miles a day; she jogged; she swam six, seven miles a day. She was in really good shape, and she won a beauty contest. She was a good-looking woman. Now, she's 93 years old and really let herself go.
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Apr 19, 2018 - 08:39am PT
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Tom Patterson; thanks for your post. I really hope that we can climb together at some point.
Me too, Greg!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 19, 2018 - 08:46am PT
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clinker:
Fred = Frederica?
Best post in the thread so far!
Would like to know more about her.
Got any pictures? (I know, thread drift, sort of, but not really: WTF)
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Apr 19, 2018 - 12:31pm PT
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My two cents, eeyonkee... Move to the ocean (Pacific coast, the closer to Big Sur the better) and take up scuba diving. It's extremely adventurous, it connects you to nature uniquely, and you'll be diving 5.11 in no time! Happy diving!!
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Apr 19, 2018 - 12:41pm PT
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I can relate Greg. The 10’s are still fun but solid 5.11 has faded. At 62 I want to try and stay healthy while having fun.
You’ve done some amazing climbs and have inspired me. Keep on climbing and do what makes you happy.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Apr 19, 2018 - 01:04pm PT
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Hey Tarbuster. That post is attributed to a comedian, Fred Wolf. I thought it was a funny take on aging. Cheers!
Jon
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 19, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
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^^^
10 four, Jon.
Still the best post in the thread!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 21, 2018 - 05:35pm PT
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Now I don't feel so bad about having difficulties on 5.10
5.10 A0 is the new 5.11
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 21, 2018 - 09:04pm PT
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Very few can claim to be 5.11 climbers in all disciplines of rock climbing.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 22, 2018 - 07:56am PT
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yeah never got that good at the why'd (bother?) offal filled, awfulwidth
I'm no longer an off the couch 5.12b climber...Now I'm a hang-my-way-up YO-YO.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 22, 2018 - 10:32am PT
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Best comment heard in a gym "Ya I'm breaking into 5.11"
I thought "I know of more than a few 5.9s you would freak on"
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 22, 2018 - 01:00pm PT
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Very few can claim to be 5.11 climbers in all disciplines of rock climbing.
True. I suck at crack, face, slab, and off-width climbing; it's a wonder I've even found stuff to climb all these years.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Apr 22, 2018 - 01:31pm PT
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There is a subjective versus objective element to be considered. Sure, the ratings are supposedly objective, but are they really?
If a climb feels as hard as you remember 5.11 to be, isn't it still 5.11 ... at least subjectively ... or to you?
If you think it feels like 5.11, how's that any different from the "real" thing? Isn't your experience still "5.11?"
Adopt this attitude: "Never give up" ... and then you can climb "5.11" till the day you die ... just by giving life your all.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Apr 22, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
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The 10’s are still fun . . .
I have to chuckle at this. I remember how hard it was to break into the realm of 5.10 back in the 1950s in America.
"It has frequently been noticed that all mountains appear doomed to pass through the three stages: An inaccessible peak - The most difficult ascent in the Alps - An easy day for a lady."
— Albert Frederick Mummery, My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Apr 24, 2018 - 11:52am PT
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I've done numerous 5.11s, but none without at least one fall. Sometimes its strength and stamina that fail you, other times its figuring out the moves. They are more technical than physically hard.
That's my mantra and I just keep repeating it to myself as I keep slipping into the 5.8-5.9 range (on a good day). But, not done trying. (I'm turning 63 this summer.)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 24, 2018 - 12:38pm PT
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Well, it ain't about how well you do something, but how you look doing it!
And we can only hope you look marvelous George, just marvelous!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 14, 2018 - 08:08pm PT
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Well it looks like your still a pretty solid 5.10+ climber. Grug cruising outer space last night.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Jun 14, 2018 - 08:53pm PT
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Maybe you are selling yourself short thinking being a 5.11 climber was your high point.
Maybe you have other talents you have neglected.
Just rember to go bike riding or skiing so you don't get fat and you'll be fine.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 15, 2018 - 06:19am PT
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If you act to be perceived a certain way will the outcome satisfy? Can the same joy be had in the personal challenge or must it compare? Which is more significant: Experience or accomplishment?
Not sure any of these things is exclusive- I love to think back on what I did and I also groove on what I'm doing. I was always a sucker for feeling bad for not making the cut. Nowadays at 59, I'm totally happy just getting out and getting after it. Getting after anything!
Don't climb 5.11 anymore but yesterday, climbing with my son- I was loving the burn in the forearms and pulling on the moves and thinking about the how.
Funny story: had a bad Pneumonia- left side filled up with fluid so when I inhaled half my chest wouldn't budge. Got it cleared up, but now, when I'm on the mope, I think back to those days and I'm so thankful just to be able to take a full breath.
still-- it would kick ass to be able to climb 5.11-because it's really fun to be that good at something, plus what good is it being rich if you have no one to be rich at?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jun 15, 2018 - 12:20pm PT
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Maybe it's an old school thing but it's an old school thing a believe in firmly. Don't call yourself a 5.whatever climber unless you very rarely fall at that grade. hmmmm. i've never fallen on a 5.12...
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| Messages 1 - 93 of total 93 in this topic |
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