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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 3, 2018 - 08:04am PT
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What's the scoop on Owen? I'm planning on climbing it this summer. Best route? Best time of year to go up the Koven Couloir?? I was thinking the East Ridge but am open to suggestions. Any good add on climbs that are accessible from Amphitheater Lake? We won't be doing Owen as part of the cathedral traverse.
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Owen is one of the best things in the Tetons. Do the Koven in mid-June, or the northeast snowfields if you want more of a challenge.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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If you wanted a pretty challenging way to climb Mt Owen, you could try this route, but I doubt it is ever in condition; except in late Winter. Here is a photo of the narrow couloir, just above Rich Goldstone's head, taken from another thread on S.T.
Google Run, Don't Walk Couloir on Mt. Owen
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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The Run Don’t Walk in the 90’s.
Ask Norm Larson. He’s on here
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okay, whatever
climber
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I did the Northeast Snowfields back in the 1970's, because it seemed to be a sort of classic Alpine route that not many people did. And it was indeed all of that... slightly tricky routefinding, mushy snow in places, ice in other places, wet rock, and the inevitable afternoon thunderstorm. We descended Koven, which was more of the same, but not as charming as the other side, though there is the great view of the North Face of the Grand, of course....
I have a feeling that other Owen routes, especially the rock routes on the west side (Serendipity Arete, e.g.), are probably better, though I have not done any of them.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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We won't be doing Owen as part of the cathedral traverse.
B-b-but...Owen, as part of the Cathedral group, is integral to the "Cathedral traverse".
Anyhoo...
I think anytime prior to complete melt out of the snowfields up high is good for the Koven. Depends on the snowpack for the year, which, seems very healthy for this season.
Second the NE Snowfields as a good route. We climbed up to the upper shoulder, then, back down and traversed over to finish on the upper East Ridge which we thought was a great way to end the climbing. Felt like the friction move or two was "interesting" in boots.
After the spring avy season is over, a good cold night and refreeze up high would give fun snow climbing conditions on either route. Maybe mid June to early July to get fat conditions?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2018 - 10:23am PT
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Thanks all! Sorry I wasn't clear-- we are not doing the cathedral traverse and will climb Owen as a stand alone objective.
Cheers!
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Owen is the BEST peak in the Tetons. The Koven couloir to the East Ridge is a great route do it in mid to late June or even early July. Stay on the ridge up high for the best climbing. The northeast snowfields is also a great climb though it needs a good freeze to make it pleasant. If you need more info drop me a pm if it works these days.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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To echo Norm...Owen is also the most difficult summit in the Tetons when taking the easiest line. It feels more remote than the Grand and has a mere fraction of the traffic.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Owen is also the most difficult summit in the Tetons when taking the easiest line.
Red Sentinel? How 'bout Teepe Pillar? Mount Moran? West Horn?
I think the Grand is harder than Owen by the easiest route. Excepting easy snow conditions up the Stettner to Ford (seasonally dependant).
How 'bout Baxter's Pinnacle? Ice Cream Cone?
As far as other venues nearby, the East Ridge of Disappointment is super fun.
Cheers!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Brian, I am referring to mountains not subsidary towers. I also think Owen is harder than Moran. The CMC route is a cakewalk.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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None of the summits in the tetons are a cake walk for me ;)
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I thought the Koven was a cakewalk. Only a couple moves of easy 5th class. Easy up and down sans rope. The git off has no free air rappel or necky downclimbing over steep exposure into Idaho.
The CMC on Moran I thought was fairly easy too, but, way more sustained easy 5th class climbing. And, folks rappel and rappel or do a bunch of downclimbing to get off.
Plus, you don't need a boat to climb Owen. Whitecaps on Leigh Lake make Mount Moran WAY more treacherous an undertaking. Ha!
West Ledges route on Owen (which I haven't done, but, sounds kinda intriguing) is rated 5.1 on Owen. Also easier than the CMC or any of the easiest routes on the Grand. Maybe easier than Wister, YDS rating-wise?
I thought Buck was harder than Owen (mostly 'cause I've had poor conditions on Buck a few times). Ditto Wister (that approach is a grind).
Sometimes the ratings of routes in the Tetons has little to do with how "difficult" things can be...!
Not done Rolling Thunder...but...my guess its a bit more involved than a jaunt up the Koven on Owen.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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A couple more for fun:
Cleaver Peak.
Thor Peak.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Brian in the Tetons it’s all about doing a peak in the best conditions for that route. I’m not going to get in to what is the hardest. To do Mt. Owen in June or winter by the Koven to East ridge with the direct summit knob move is steep neve and a solid 5.8 move on great rock. It doesn’t get much better in the Tetons for an all around very scenic mountaineering adventure.
I mean there is the enclosure couloir nw ridge combo which is great as is the Hossack McGowan in June or the black fin to the summit or black ice west face or....they are all better early season with snow or in winter when you get to ski home.
Rolling Thunder is a worthwhile trip but not of the same caliber. Thor doesn’t have a decent route on it. Hidden couloir is off fall line and it feels like you are going sideways the whole time. It is a good peak to ski though.
The west ledges is a route finding nightmare. The Serendipity Arete is fun from Valhalla Canyon.
My advise for the Tetons is avoid the obscure and unknown, climb the classics in their proper condition.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Arguing about the hardest in an area where nothing is really hard seems silly. I was just trying to add some flavor to a really nice but under appreciated peak.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Steve I think the name you gave for the Run Dont Walk is classic.
Run don’t walk I tried three times.
First time rock fall chased us out of there. We called that one live don’t die.
Second time the creek was raging and we couldn’t find a reasonable crossing. Went to Dornan’s that was the drink don’t swim
Third time I had forty feet of ice collapse below me while leading. I just called that one the last time.
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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The Cleaver? That's way out there, far enough that I haven't made the journey. Thor is a reasonable day-hike, but the Cleaver and Zebra are serious adventures.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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I thought all the action was in the big horns.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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did Mt. Owen via the East Ridge and the Koven Couloir in August 1995 (doesn't seem that long ago).
My notes and recollection were that we did it in a long day from the trailhead.
We scrambled the Koven Couloir that year, passing a team who were pitching it out with belays. I think we had been in the 'Bugs for a week and were in good shape for moving quickly on that terrain.
I can't remember much about the climbing otherwise. Great summit with great vistas and the N. Face of the Grand right there.
One note in my book was a caution regarding rock dumping off the E. Ridge of the Grand onto the Teton Glacier.
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