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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 3, 2018 - 08:04am PT
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What's the scoop on Owen? I'm planning on climbing it this summer. Best route? Best time of year to go up the Koven Couloir?? I was thinking the East Ridge but am open to suggestions. Any good add on climbs that are accessible from Amphitheater Lake? We won't be doing Owen as part of the cathedral traverse.
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Owen is one of the best things in the Tetons. Do the Koven in mid-June, or the northeast snowfields if you want more of a challenge.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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If you wanted a pretty challenging way to climb Mt Owen, you could try this route, but I doubt it is ever in condition; except in late Winter. Here is a photo of the narrow couloir, just above Rich Goldstone's head, taken from another thread on S.T.
Google Run, Don't Walk Couloir on Mt. Owen
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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The Run Don’t Walk in the 90’s.
Ask Norm Larson. He’s on here
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okay, whatever
climber
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I did the Northeast Snowfields back in the 1970's, because it seemed to be a sort of classic Alpine route that not many people did. And it was indeed all of that... slightly tricky routefinding, mushy snow in places, ice in other places, wet rock, and the inevitable afternoon thunderstorm. We descended Koven, which was more of the same, but not as charming as the other side, though there is the great view of the North Face of the Grand, of course....
I have a feeling that other Owen routes, especially the rock routes on the west side (Serendipity Arete, e.g.), are probably better, though I have not done any of them.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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We won't be doing Owen as part of the cathedral traverse.
B-b-but...Owen, as part of the Cathedral group, is integral to the "Cathedral traverse".
Anyhoo...
I think anytime prior to complete melt out of the snowfields up high is good for the Koven. Depends on the snowpack for the year, which, seems very healthy for this season.
Second the NE Snowfields as a good route. We climbed up to the upper shoulder, then, back down and traversed over to finish on the upper East Ridge which we thought was a great way to end the climbing. Felt like the friction move or two was "interesting" in boots.
After the spring avy season is over, a good cold night and refreeze up high would give fun snow climbing conditions on either route. Maybe mid June to early July to get fat conditions?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2018 - 10:23am PT
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Thanks all! Sorry I wasn't clear-- we are not doing the cathedral traverse and will climb Owen as a stand alone objective.
Cheers!
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Owen is the BEST peak in the Tetons. The Koven couloir to the East Ridge is a great route do it in mid to late June or even early July. Stay on the ridge up high for the best climbing. The northeast snowfields is also a great climb though it needs a good freeze to make it pleasant. If you need more info drop me a pm if it works these days.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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To echo Norm...Owen is also the most difficult summit in the Tetons when taking the easiest line. It feels more remote than the Grand and has a mere fraction of the traffic.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Owen is also the most difficult summit in the Tetons when taking the easiest line.
Red Sentinel? How 'bout Teepe Pillar? Mount Moran? West Horn?
I think the Grand is harder than Owen by the easiest route. Excepting easy snow conditions up the Stettner to Ford (seasonally dependant).
How 'bout Baxter's Pinnacle? Ice Cream Cone?
As far as other venues nearby, the East Ridge of Disappointment is super fun.
Cheers!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Brian, I am referring to mountains not subsidary towers. I also think Owen is harder than Moran. The CMC route is a cakewalk.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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None of the summits in the tetons are a cake walk for me ;)
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I thought the Koven was a cakewalk. Only a couple moves of easy 5th class. Easy up and down sans rope. The git off has no free air rappel or necky downclimbing over steep exposure into Idaho.
The CMC on Moran I thought was fairly easy too, but, way more sustained easy 5th class climbing. And, folks rappel and rappel or do a bunch of downclimbing to get off.
Plus, you don't need a boat to climb Owen. Whitecaps on Leigh Lake make Mount Moran WAY more treacherous an undertaking. Ha!
West Ledges route on Owen (which I haven't done, but, sounds kinda intriguing) is rated 5.1 on Owen. Also easier than the CMC or any of the easiest routes on the Grand. Maybe easier than Wister, YDS rating-wise?
I thought Buck was harder than Owen (mostly 'cause I've had poor conditions on Buck a few times). Ditto Wister (that approach is a grind).
Sometimes the ratings of routes in the Tetons has little to do with how "difficult" things can be...!
Not done Rolling Thunder...but...my guess its a bit more involved than a jaunt up the Koven on Owen.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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A couple more for fun:
Cleaver Peak.
Thor Peak.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Brian in the Tetons it’s all about doing a peak in the best conditions for that route. I’m not going to get in to what is the hardest. To do Mt. Owen in June or winter by the Koven to East ridge with the direct summit knob move is steep neve and a solid 5.8 move on great rock. It doesn’t get much better in the Tetons for an all around very scenic mountaineering adventure.
I mean there is the enclosure couloir nw ridge combo which is great as is the Hossack McGowan in June or the black fin to the summit or black ice west face or....they are all better early season with snow or in winter when you get to ski home.
Rolling Thunder is a worthwhile trip but not of the same caliber. Thor doesn’t have a decent route on it. Hidden couloir is off fall line and it feels like you are going sideways the whole time. It is a good peak to ski though.
The west ledges is a route finding nightmare. The Serendipity Arete is fun from Valhalla Canyon.
My advise for the Tetons is avoid the obscure and unknown, climb the classics in their proper condition.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Arguing about the hardest in an area where nothing is really hard seems silly. I was just trying to add some flavor to a really nice but under appreciated peak.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Steve I think the name you gave for the Run Dont Walk is classic.
Run don’t walk I tried three times.
First time rock fall chased us out of there. We called that one live don’t die.
Second time the creek was raging and we couldn’t find a reasonable crossing. Went to Dornan’s that was the drink don’t swim
Third time I had forty feet of ice collapse below me while leading. I just called that one the last time.
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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The Cleaver? That's way out there, far enough that I haven't made the journey. Thor is a reasonable day-hike, but the Cleaver and Zebra are serious adventures.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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I thought all the action was in the big horns.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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did Mt. Owen via the East Ridge and the Koven Couloir in August 1995 (doesn't seem that long ago).
My notes and recollection were that we did it in a long day from the trailhead.
We scrambled the Koven Couloir that year, passing a team who were pitching it out with belays. I think we had been in the 'Bugs for a week and were in good shape for moving quickly on that terrain.
I can't remember much about the climbing otherwise. Great summit with great vistas and the N. Face of the Grand right there.
One note in my book was a caution regarding rock dumping off the E. Ridge of the Grand onto the Teton Glacier.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Ed, concerning the N.F. of the Grand...forget the lower part, it’s a far better option to climb the North Ridge to the second ledge and traverse out to the direct finish (5.9) of the North Face.
This combo gives you the best climbing on both routes and avoids the junky climbing on the lower NF.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Regard to original question I'm w' Norm and Jim about the Koven, particularly when the couloir is full of snow. The ridge is a mellow yet spectacular position, w' a pointy summit to boot!
I'll now defer to Owen's dark side in Run-don't-walk. SteveA, such a route. Congrats to you and John way back when. I learnt of the line from Peter Carman in 72' when unclimbed, but out of shape.
The next spring, after Dave Carman,Johnny Waterman and I had climbed Hunter's South Ridge, back in Talkeetna Dave heard from Pete that R-D-W had been ascended. Drat, my interest wasn't dampened. Late spring 74' in cold clear conditions Jay Wilson and I made it's second ascent, in much the same manner as SteveA describes in his 73' AAJ report. Steve,More!!!
I have great memories from that day. Jay was a very close friend.
That is Jay on Grand's East ridge with both Teepe Pillar and Middle's Glacier route col in background. I would later joke how Jay's first 2 ice climbs were Run-don't-walk then Torre Egger, with Jim and John Bragg on it's First ascent.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mt. Owen has been my favorite summit so far in the Tetons. Very remote feel, and has a wonderful position in the range. No matter what route you choose it will be a splendid outing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Happy Cowboy...thanks for posting that shot of Jay Wilson. He was a stellar human being who left us far too early.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Thanks Jim. Jay was something special, those energetic eyes and coy smile I'll never forget. I still have trouble with the loss.
oh, almost forgot. Jay's '3rd' ice climb was some tower down south for it's 1st Alpine ascent. Cerro something or other...
I apologize for the detour.
Along with Owen a favorite is Buck Mtn. A nice alternative/addition with it's own canyons, less users, some crappy rock, and a snow covered summit
Donnie Black
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Only route I've done on Owen is the Intrepidity on the west face from the bivy in Valhalla. I'd recommend it as straightforward route finding on fairly clean rock, so a quick way to the top, no snow involved. Lots of third classing to get to the route proper, with a likely section of rope up for an exposed traverse on the way up high. Descent is also straightforward though quite exposed and not advised with any likelihood of precipitation.
Would like to do the Teewinot/Owen combo.
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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Barb and I are having dinner with Jay's widow this evening.
She is always good company.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Hi Tom, please give my best to Louise. Thanks, Donnie
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2018 - 03:29pm PT
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Thanks to you all for your comments and photos!
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Cascade Mountains and Monterey Bay
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One of my favorite passages in the Tetons is the complex ridge crest going from Mt Owen north towards the Grand Teton.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2018 - 10:05am PT
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Well, for a few reasons we changed our itinerary. We ended up climbing the Corkscrew one day and then the East Ridge of Dissapointment. Both were very nice climbs. As always, I enjoyed the history, scenery and climbing in the Tetons and of course being out with friends!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 21, 2018 - 05:06pm PT
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Cool. We did The east ridge of Buck on July 7th. still lots of snow then and super awesome day! decent down east face was pretty fun as well
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Aug 21, 2018 - 06:05pm PT
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Being out there with friends counts big time. My. Owen isn’t going anywhere and those are both fun routes you did.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 22, 2018 - 08:24am PT
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Outstanding!
Great pics of Owen. That East Ridge is classic.
Fun stuff.
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| Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic |
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