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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 25, 2018 - 11:46am PT
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Also you need to run the rope thru a carabiner on a chest harness so the force to the water won't flip you upside down with the water pounding down into your nose and mouth.
I've never seen someone run the rope through a biner on a chest harness in a canyon...certainly not commonly done, and, not described in any of the technical manuals that I own (most from Europe).
Biggest flow/waterfall I've ever rappelled...during the rendezvous in Delebio Italy in 2012. We thought since the catchment was small, that the rain forecast for the day wouldn't impact the water flow. Got that a tad wrong, but, no one perished...
Spanish feller starting the rappel. Note the water level at his feet.
Me on rappel (photo by Luca). Gettin' spicy but I drop over the edge. Got beat up by the water flow, but, didn't seem too bad (ha ha). Last one to rap that drop that day.
Waterfall from below.
Good times.
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clifff
Mountain climber
golden, rollin hills of California
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Mar 25, 2018 - 01:09pm PT
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Brian in SLC - inspiring pics. thanks.
The higher the point of rotation is, the less likely one will be flipped over by the force of the water. The chest harness may be too high. A point just a few inches higher than the tie in on the harness may be enough. PVC coated gloves will give a good grip on the rope.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Mar 29, 2018 - 12:49am PT
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That takes the cake, aptly named "The Wanker"
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Mar 29, 2018 - 07:30am PT
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That water anchor works on the same principal as a bail technique I once used on the fire department. I had to bail out a 3 story window at an apartment fire in downtown LA. I took off my breathing apparatus and played it on the floor against the window and clipped my drop line to the SCBA. The friction and weight against the wall was enough to to hold me and I was able to make it out safely.
The difference is my circumstance was an emergency and a last resort. Cool concept though.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Mar 29, 2018 - 07:44am PT
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why in fact, I used a macrame knot just last week, and to great effect.
speaking of one-way, LNT canyoneering approaches to jankors, as yet no mention of the Ibis hook....
or the ol' buried 1 lb coffee can filled with wet sand, threaded through holes punched in the sides.....
or the long-axis friction-pinned, rap-down and then flip-outward-pull trick release backpack trick.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 29, 2018 - 07:49am PT
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I have to admit, I really don't get this canyoneering business, especially the rapping waterfalls part. To each his own, however.
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Mar 29, 2018 - 01:06pm PT
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Thanks for splitting this thread off, good stuff! I have seen but not used a sand trap, the Wanker is a new one though!
I started climbing and then added in some canyoneering after a couple Utah trips. It's taken me to some pretty amazing places and many of those were better off without bolts and tons of traffic. It's a different mentality, but can in most cases be done conservatively and safely even with non-standard anchors. You build/create/engineer your anchor for the requirements of the situation, which is generally bodyweight only.
I've rapped off a fiddlestick a few times, more often cairns or deadmen though those still require leaving something. In many shorter raps a meat anchor (braced person holding the rope) can be great if you have a good climber downclimb last with the rest of the party spotting. Or similar in concept to the sandtrap/wanker for short drops, just hand line/duffersitz off everyones pack, each with a separate cord on it. When you are down, pull each pack individually (together they are heavy enough to counter your weight, individually they will pop over). Works good for some pothole escapes too.
That whole running water/firehose thing doesn't make sense to me either though. I always worried about getting washed down the next falls before I got on rappel and it wasn't fun.
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