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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 24, 2018 - 11:25pm PT
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Hey Scrubber
We're a little off topic here, but who cares? The original Baldwin guide was actually twelve 8.5x11 inch hand printed pages, longer than the single page that you indicated. The single sheet which you refer to may have been the index. There was also a 1969 updated Culbert guide (brown cover), but the info about the Chief was not revised as Glenn's book had been printed by thenGood luck getting a copy of Glenn's book. The last price which I saw, some years ago was $140-. Not sure if that was US or Cdn.
Here's a shot of Jim's guide, to complete the display.
Cheers,
HM
EDIT
For a complete list we should also include this one. Yos has the 'Red Roper'. We have the 'Green Glenn'!
The cover shows Tim Auger on the FA of UWall.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 25, 2018 - 07:37am PT
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Thanks for the clarification Hamish.
I figure it's pretty unlikely I'll ever find one of those, but you never know! I felt very fortunate to find the 1964 blue Culbert guide, and there are certainly more of those floating around.
Kris
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2018 - 12:28pm PT
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Some High Sierra Guides including 1st and later printings.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2018 - 12:42pm PT
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A shot of some the boxes being unpacked. If you are looking for particular guides, best to email me as I'm trying to fill want lists and will not post most guides here...just too many.
BTW, the Desert Rock is sold.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2018 - 01:29pm PT
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Here are some Eastern and Southern US guides that are available, except the following have been sold:
1. All 3 stones of years.
2. 1st ed heart of stone
3. bellefonte guide
4. Mt magazine guide
5 1st ed climb Pennsylvania guide
6. buddy price Carolina guide
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 25, 2018 - 02:33pm PT
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There might have been a guide (1960? or 1970s?) to Canon in New Hampshire, written by Earle Whipple. Don't know if it was formally published or not. I'd be interested if it turns up. Thanks.... Glenn
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2018 - 04:21pm PT
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Some more random stuff.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Mar 26, 2018 - 08:44am PT
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Randy -
I've tried several times contacting you via email but to no avail. I'm not sure if its my email address or what. But as I've expressed earlier in the thread, I was hoping to get my hands on the Stonemashers guidebook, if it isn't already bought from you. I know Mark Hammond expressed interest in that book. Please respond here or email me at climb_on_dude@yahoo.com.
Thanks!!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2018 - 11:30am PT
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Hi Mooch,
My apologies as I did not receive your email, but did send you one just now to the address you provided.
Thanks,
Randy
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2018 - 09:27am PT
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Here are some pictures of Arizona, New Mexico, TX and Oklahoma guides that have just been excavated.
BTW, No Duplicates here. What appear to be the same guide (e.g., A Cheap Way to Die/Fly) are different editions and/or with supplement material included.
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The Pilsner Prophet
Trad climber
Albuquerque
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Mar 28, 2018 - 01:57pm PT
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Do you have "Rocky Heights"? It was written by Jim Ericksen (Erickson?), and had Eldo Canyon, Flatirons, & Boulder Canyon. I'd saved my pennies, and wandered into Neptune Mountaineering, & there was Jim behind the counter when I bought it. Then, several years later, I was a climbing bum in N.C. An acquaintance announced he was going to Co. to climb. Foolishly, I loaned him my copy, and never saw it again. I'd love to replace it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 28, 2018 - 02:03pm PT
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As the dog returneth to it's own vomit......we return to our guidebooks;.......they are our binky, our passifiers, our baby blankets......they hold our hand through the storms of life. They represent the past, present, and future. Guidebooks can make America great again. Those who have lost or misplaced their favorite and precious guidebook know exactly what I am taking about. To some they seem only as paper and bindings. But we know better. Those who have woke up at night sleeping at the base of some 2,000 foot unknown adventure, looming in the darkness as a massive shape of wonderment, admiration, and anticipation;......best check the guidebook one more time with the headlamp and look at the various pitches for the hundredth time;....like a child looks at wrapped presents at Xmas time. (and yeah;....it's OK to rip that page out of the guidebook and bring it on the climb;...you can tape it back in the book later...don't want to screw up the climb because you don't have the info...such guidebooks wear the scars of real use, real adventure, and pay for themselves tenfold)......and some rainy damp evening, when you are sitting by the fireplace all warm and cozy and safe, you can get out that old Yosemite guidebook, that red rocks guide, or that Canyonlands guidebook, and see the wear and tear of many of your life's greatest adventures represented in the dirty, torn, weathered and worn guidebook, a sense of pride and honor will well up in your bosom and a smile comes over your face as to say........job well done. (This does not apply to millennials who take pictures of guidebook pages with their phones to bring on climbs or get their "guidebook" fixes off internet "guides"......or ...worse yet.....take pictures of other older real climber's guidebooks so they don't have to support guidebook authors with their purchases.)
so great! Lol thx TG!
Must...not...email...Randy...already...have...too...many...guidebooks...
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2018 - 04:43pm PT
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Do you have "Rocky Heights"? It was written by Jim Ericksen (Erickson?), and had Eldo Canyon, Flatirons, & Boulder Canyon. I'd saved my pennies, and wandered into Neptune Mountaineering, & there was Jim behind the counter when I bought it. Then, several years later, I was a climbing bum in N.C. An acquaintance announced he was going to Co. to climb. Foolishly, I loaned him my copy, and never saw it again. I'd love to replace it.
Yes, I have copies of the original and later printing/edition. Haven't started going through the Colorado guides yet. Lots of Colorado material, the only one sold is the Garden of Gods 1st.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Mar 28, 2018 - 08:26pm PT
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Oklaoma on the Rocks. Me want. I just saw that one, I'll PM you.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2018 - 08:28pm PT
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Johntp. Sorry, it has been sold already.
Thanks.
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Ledge Rat
Trad climber
Michigan
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Mar 29, 2018 - 01:23pm PT
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Package arrived today. Thanks Randy!
Jeff
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2018 - 02:12pm PT
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I'm glad you are happy and it arrived safely. Thanks.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Mar 29, 2018 - 02:14pm PT
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AFAIK:
1. Hamie has the original hand-written Baldwin guidebook to Squamish, from 1963/64.
2. Much of the information in it is reproduced in A Climber's Guide to the Coastal Ranges of B.C. (Culbert, with lots of help from Woodsworth and others), 1965.
3. Glenn has the typed version, and the Baldwin family has a copy. It was never formally published, but if anything, copyright belongs to the family. So there are very few copies in existence, and it would not seem good form to blithely make copies without their consent.
4. There is only one copy of the Crag Rat's Guide to UBC, although it is now online, as is Glenn's 1967 guide.
5. There is a "big" (medium) wall guide to Squamish, published about ten years ago, but in very limited quantities.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 29, 2018 - 02:29pm PT
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Some High Sierra Guides including 1st and later printings.
That Hervey Voge guide is beautiful. Well reproduced Ansel Adams photo's and lofty writing.
Here is his description of arriving at the north rim of the Middle Fork of the King's River, perhaps the top of Tehipite Dome, looking south toward the Gorge of Despair:
For wild and rugged grandeur the Kings River Canyon region of the Sierra Nevada has no peer. A mighty panorama, beginning at the wandering streams, sweeping up the terrifying gorges past jagged spires, and culminating in towering granite peaks presents itself to the adventurer. It is indeed an awe inspiring sight to break out of the pine forest onto the rim of Tehipite Valley and gaze across at the opposite mountain wall, fantastically cut up into multiple flying turrets soaring in the blue haze. The great river, four thousand feet below, sends its dull roar echoing about the valley.
Hervey Voge, 1954
That book is a gem, and anyone who doesn't snap it up from you is nuts. My 1st ed. copy is among my favorite guides.
FWIW every time this thread pops up I misread the title as "Climbing Guidebook Correction Being Sold." ;-)
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2018 - 03:32pm PT
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Kris, now that is a title that I should work on.
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