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Messages 1 - 126 of total 126 in this topic |
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 17, 2018 - 10:50am PT
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UPDATED April 28, 2018
Too many bookcases and storage boxes full of classic, rare, uncommon and old climbing guides from all across the US, Canada and some British. Am keeping Josh, Tahquitz, other local stuff and current guides, but most of the rest is going to go.
Several Hundreds of guides have found new homes (thanks to all), but many more are still emerging from boxes and other remain available.
Pictures have been posted of guides as these have surfaced, but many of those have been quickly sold. Best bet is to go to last page for most recent posts (rather than wading through then entire thread).
Email me with wants or inquiries randykvogel gee male. All guides are sent via Priority Mail with tracking (with extra precautionary packaging). I want these to arrive in good shape to their new homes.
Not everything that might be available (or was available) has been posted.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Mar 17, 2018 - 11:43am PT
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Say it ain't so! Calling SteelMonkey!!!
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 17, 2018 - 12:41pm PT
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i'd love the Pinnacles guide.
blackmarketcaterer at gee mail....
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Mar 17, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
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I am interested in all of these except for the Bruce Morris Apron guidebook since I already have that. Please let me know prices and what is still available.
markf eight four five at gee mail
(replace the written numbers with actual numbers with no spaces, dots, or unscrews).
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 17, 2018 - 12:50pm PT
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Say it ain't so!
And...yes...I'm interested...!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 17, 2018 - 03:14pm PT
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I'm interested in some. I emailed you; let me know (tricouni at telus.net) if you didn't get it. Thanks....
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 17, 2018 - 04:45pm PT
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Mississippi Palisades? Why that's simply some of the finest bottomland climbing in the world triangulated by Dubuque Iowa, Davenport Iowa, and Rockford Illinois. Where the f*#k did you come up with that? Hell, it's probably rarer than everything else in the collection.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2018 - 05:30pm PT
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It's only a taste of obscurities lying about.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
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Some Mass. area guides for your consideration. The 1970 Quincy Quarries are 2nd and 3rd printings. The ever elusive Boston Rolls, and the Chapel Ledge guide is distnctly uncommon.
Email me with interest and offers (randykvogel at g mail).
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Mar 17, 2018 - 05:47pm PT
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Mountaineering: Freedom of the Quad
now that's funny
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Mar 17, 2018 - 06:04pm PT
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Some may not know Randy, but he started collecting guidebooks decades ago. I dare say that his is the finest library of North American guide books in the world.
This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for aficionados.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 17, 2018 - 06:54pm PT
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^^^Ditto (no shit!).
Ahhhh...mazing.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 17, 2018 - 08:58pm PT
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Nice kit. That Yos first topo is a gem. Surprised you’re letting it go?
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Mar 17, 2018 - 09:50pm PT
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I have a modest collection but nothing close to that old. It's probably a good thing I can't really afford it.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Mar 18, 2018 - 01:19am PT
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Interested in the early Yosemite topos, and the Stanford quad guide. My email deuce4 at bigwalls.net.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 18, 2018 - 09:25am PT
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Hey Randy,
I am interested in the Sierra Club Pinnacles guide and the Green Squamish guide for the Archives. Let me know what you are asking for them.
scgrossman at geemail dot crumb
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Mar 18, 2018 - 10:03am PT
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In the age of internet topos and photos the guidebook occupies a similar place to the phono album vs streaming music. Nothing is quite look holding a physical object (the album cover or book) and dreaming about things to do or absorbing history.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 18, 2018 - 10:22am PT
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Very cool stuff!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2018 - 11:57am PT
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Digging around in boxes and dusty shelves - lots of memories.
Of guides with pictures posted thus far, it should come as no surprise that the following have a number of people very interested, so trying to be fair in giving people equal shots:
1. 1st Yosemite Topo guide (taking offers via my email randykvogel at gee mail)
2. Squamish Guide (Glenn is interested, so I'm giving him first shot, but will consider back up offers).
3. Freedom of the Quad - A very rare original copy - Taking offers.
4. Hammack Pinnacles, super nice and rare - Taking offers (also have all the early Pinnacles guides).
If you have particular regions, states or climbing spots let me know and I'll dig in and see what I have.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
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Steve,
The email you gave went to a Simon Grossman in Canada. Could you email me directly randykvogel at gee mail dot com so we can connect?
Thanks
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TRo
climber
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Mar 18, 2018 - 12:06pm PT
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Look at the 2 editions of Trudy Healy guides in that last photo in the lower right corner!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2018 - 12:37pm PT
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Look at the 2 editions of Trudy Healy guides in that last photo in the lower right corner!
Sharp eyes,
A better picture, includes both printings of Trudy's 2nd Edition.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 18, 2018 - 01:09pm PT
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That's a rare, and lightly used, copy of Glenn's Squamish Guide. It's not "bent in the middle, like a one string fiddle". But can likely "tell you a tale or two".
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Mar 19, 2018 - 04:16pm PT
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If the Garden of the Gods book is still available I'd like it. The one I had got lost somewhere.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Mar 20, 2018 - 09:35am PT
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Sorry to see you let these go but happy you posted on ST first.
Please let me/us know what books are left after the initial round of buyers get their fill...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Mar 20, 2018 - 09:42am PT
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Hi! Do you have any old Tuolumne specific ones? Hope all is well. Lynne
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2018 - 10:02am PT
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Lynne, All is well, just cleaning house.
I have probably every Toulumne guide ever made, including the pre-chockstone, 8.5 x 11 guides, etc. Will have to dig around.
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Late Starter
Social climber
NA
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Mar 20, 2018 - 10:11am PT
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I'd be interested in the Needles of South Dakota guide (Herb Conn)....
Sending you an email...
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2018 - 10:13am PT
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Roots,
I have literally hundreds of guides (before my purge of the late 1980s, I had over 1200), from common to very not so. US, Canada, some British and some Africa, etc. They are not doing me any good residing in boxes or gathering dust on bookcases. Time for others to enjoy them. Will keep those that have personal meaning to me (which is still a lot).
This will take a long time to sort.
Here are a couple nicer ones:
The only Gran Guide with Original Dust Jacket I've ever seen:
Desirable Tetons Guide in Fine+
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2018 - 01:41pm PT
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Hi Matt, Not sure I have any Iowa, but do have 3 other different Mississippi Palasades guides and some other Midwest stuff. When I complete going through the boxes I'll let you know if I find any Iowa (though I don't think so).
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2018 - 10:12am PT
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Super Rare Brighton's Bluff guide signed.
Cool Smith Rocks guide
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Mar 21, 2018 - 11:43am PT
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Lemme buy that Smith guide...!
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Mar 21, 2018 - 11:47am PT
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is that Mark Hudon on cover of Broughton's guide?
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 21, 2018 - 12:24pm PT
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Wow, that's kind of the end of an era, you've likely got one of the top US guidebook collections in the world. Still, it doesn't take many times cleaning out parents and other elders collections of crap to realize you're better off unloading now than later. That's why I'm not going to buy any...
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nfox513
climber
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Mar 21, 2018 - 12:47pm PT
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Are there any gyms (or other "common" areas -- like the Mountain Shop in Yose, Miguel's, Rock & Snow, etc) that have "reading rooms"? Would be psyched to visit a place that provides relics like these to peruse. And they'd provide a lot more value than most of the rest of our guidebook collections, which just exist as a spine on a bookshelf.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 21, 2018 - 01:03pm PT
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Best reading rooms for this sort of thing I've seen were the Alpine Club of Canada in Banff and the Mountaineers Library in Seattle. Sadly A brief search suggests most of the ACC's collection is in storage and the Mountaineer's stuff is similarly archived.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Mar 21, 2018 - 01:04pm PT
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Count me to take the Stonemasher's guide off your hands!! Price you want for it?
You're killin' me Mark! At least let a local take the Stonemashers guide...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Mar 21, 2018 - 01:34pm PT
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Reading rooms.....I hope to live long enough to create at least one in JTree.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2018 - 06:28pm PT
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Roots, yours if you want it.
Bobinc, I'll check.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 22, 2018 - 06:48am PT
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When it comes down to it...what do you really need in life? Family, friends, love, a job, a place to live, and a toothbrushe.....sure;...it's fun to have 1000 guidebooks....(I only have about 850...)......but all those guidebooks;....do ya really need them, and how often do you look at them. And once you are in your 60s....how many of these places are you going to go to and climb? These are the questions real men ask themselves...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 22, 2018 - 06:51am PT
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Mar 22, 2018 - 07:55am PT
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Todd you're one of the lucky ones; who gets to have their guidebook library in their living room! LOL
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 22, 2018 - 09:08am PT
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Been thinking about reducing the avalanche hazard in my office one of these days...
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wheatBeer
Social climber
TheBronx
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Mar 22, 2018 - 09:14am PT
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Hey Randy,
Do you have an updated list on what you have available?
Little hard for me to jump in to the chaos 5 days later.
Thanks
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Mar 22, 2018 - 11:58am PT
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In response to Todd,
They can pry my collection from my cold, dead hands :)
I'll never visit most of the places, but one can still dream.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 22, 2018 - 12:09pm PT
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Been thinking about reducing the avalanche hazard in my office one of these days...
Yeah?
I dunno. Re-doing some of the shelving in the ol' book room (reducing that avy hazard)...makes me ponder...
There's a few of us that have fairly large collections. Not Nick Clinch large...but...
Over time, I think the value of "collectable" books hasn't been a great investment, money wise, if one wanted to consider it that way. Always the hope to get that precious hole filled without having to pony up large. The 5 dollar flea market score.
Hmmm.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2018 - 12:17pm PT
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Wheatbeer,
I'm kinda just filling requests for people and seeing what I may have (or can find) for different areas, states or regions. Best to email me with what you may be seeking and I can try to generate a list and/or photos of guides that might be of interest.
Randykvogel at gee male
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Mar 22, 2018 - 01:34pm PT
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Randy -
Haven't heard if you surrendered the Stonemashers guide. If not, I sent you an email.
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Pete_N
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 22, 2018 - 02:00pm PT
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Randy: It's fun to see your photos of those old guidebooks. I used to have a bunch of mimeographed 8.5x11 sheets that Vern Clevenger (?) put together of Tuolumne routes. I got them from Rob Ramey in 83 or 84 I think, but they're long gone. Do you have those? Don't hunt for them on my account--I don't need them, just curious. thanks! Pete
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 22, 2018 - 07:58pm PT
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Rick .....I understand what you are saying.........guidebooks represent trips, adventures, vacations, challenges, excitement , travel, friends, campfires, far away places, new friends, stars, wildlife, dreams, goals, training, planning, movies, camping, trees, wild places, water, swimming, freedom, beauty, excitement, anticipation, high places, fitness, .......Randy.....how could you sell your collection!! are you MAD!......(thank you Rick for the perspective.......I too need to justify my obsession with guidebooks;.....which isn't as bad as you or Randy....but almost...)....
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2018 - 12:18pm PT
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It's fun to see your photos of those old guidebooks. I used to have a bunch of mimeographed 8.5x11 sheets that Vern Clevenger (?) put together of Tuolumne routes. I got them from Rob Ramey in 83 or 84 I think, but they're long gone. Do you have those? Don't hunt for them on my account--I don't need them, just curious. thanks! Pete
Pete, yes, I have several of these pre-formal guide Toulumne guides. It was a place I sent a lot of time climbing.
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Gail Hightower
climber
SE
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Mar 23, 2018 - 01:01pm PT
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Before dividing up the collection,
Have you looked into selling it as a whole to a university or research library? This is they type of collection that environmental lit, outdoor rec programs might be looking for as part of an archive.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Mar 23, 2018 - 04:13pm PT
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.guidebooks represent trips, adventures, vacations, challenges, excitement , travel, friends, campfires, far away places, new friends, stars, wildlife, dreams, goals, training, planning, movies, camping, trees, wild places, water, swimming, freedom, beauty, excitement, anticipation, high places, fitness,
Todd - of all the climbing gear I have, the guidebooks I have used mean the most to me...for all the reasons you mention above..with an emphasis on "dreams"...
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2018 - 05:49pm PT
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Todd, I'm only selling guides to places that aren't central to my climbing memories or that I didn't really use. Still keeping lots, but many hundreds are just gathering dust and I feel good about passing those on to others who might appreciate them.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 24, 2018 - 07:39am PT
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As the dog returneth to it's own vomit......we return to our guidebooks;.......they are our binky, our passifiers, our baby blankets......they hold our hand through the storms of life. They represent the past, present, and future. Guidebooks can make America great again. Those who have lost or misplaced their favorite and precious guidebook know exactly what I am taking about. To some they seem only as paper and bindings. But we know better. Those who have woke up at night sleeping at the base of some 2,000 foot unknown adventure, looming in the darkness as a massive shape of wonderment, admiration, and anticipation;......best check the guidebook one more time with the headlamp and look at the various pitches for the hundredth time;....like a child looks at wrapped presents at Xmas time. (and yeah;....it's OK to rip that page out of the guidebook and bring it on the climb;...you can tape it back in the book later...don't want to screw up the climb because you don't have the info...such guidebooks wear the scars of real use, real adventure, and pay for themselves tenfold)......and some rainy damp evening, when you are sitting by the fireplace all warm and cozy and safe, you can get out that old Yosemite guidebook, that red rocks guide, or that Canyonlands guidebook, and see the wear and tear of many of your life's greatest adventures represented in the dirty, torn, weathered and worn guidebook, a sense of pride and honor will well up in your bosom and a smile comes over your face as to say........job well done. (This does not apply to millennials who take pictures of guidebook pages with their phones to bring on climbs or get their "guidebook" fixes off internet "guides"......or ...worse yet.....take pictures of other older real climber's guidebooks so they don't have to support guidebook authors with their purchases.)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 24, 2018 - 07:41am PT
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 24, 2018 - 10:01am PT
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Hewl ya, Todd!
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Mar 24, 2018 - 06:54pm PT
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Well and elegantly put, Todd!
(Except for the part about dog vomit) :)
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 24, 2018 - 08:05pm PT
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I'd love to put in a bid on the Glenn Woodsworth Squamish guidebook. It's the only Squamish one I'm missing with the exception of the original Jim Baldwin single sheet.
If you have any other old Squamish guides, I may pick them up too to pass on and help others around here with their collections. Just sent you an email.
Kris
Bouldering guides omitted for clarity...
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 24, 2018 - 11:25pm PT
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Hey Scrubber
We're a little off topic here, but who cares? The original Baldwin guide was actually twelve 8.5x11 inch hand printed pages, longer than the single page that you indicated. The single sheet which you refer to may have been the index. There was also a 1969 updated Culbert guide (brown cover), but the info about the Chief was not revised as Glenn's book had been printed by thenGood luck getting a copy of Glenn's book. The last price which I saw, some years ago was $140-. Not sure if that was US or Cdn.
Here's a shot of Jim's guide, to complete the display.
Cheers,
HM
EDIT
For a complete list we should also include this one. Yos has the 'Red Roper'. We have the 'Green Glenn'!
The cover shows Tim Auger on the FA of UWall.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 25, 2018 - 07:37am PT
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Thanks for the clarification Hamish.
I figure it's pretty unlikely I'll ever find one of those, but you never know! I felt very fortunate to find the 1964 blue Culbert guide, and there are certainly more of those floating around.
Kris
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2018 - 12:28pm PT
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Some High Sierra Guides including 1st and later printings.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2018 - 12:42pm PT
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A shot of some the boxes being unpacked. If you are looking for particular guides, best to email me as I'm trying to fill want lists and will not post most guides here...just too many.
BTW, the Desert Rock is sold.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2018 - 01:29pm PT
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Here are some Eastern and Southern US guides that are available, except the following have been sold:
1. All 3 stones of years.
2. 1st ed heart of stone
3. bellefonte guide
4. Mt magazine guide
5 1st ed climb Pennsylvania guide
6. buddy price Carolina guide
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 25, 2018 - 02:33pm PT
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There might have been a guide (1960? or 1970s?) to Canon in New Hampshire, written by Earle Whipple. Don't know if it was formally published or not. I'd be interested if it turns up. Thanks.... Glenn
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2018 - 04:21pm PT
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Some more random stuff.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Mar 26, 2018 - 08:44am PT
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Randy -
I've tried several times contacting you via email but to no avail. I'm not sure if its my email address or what. But as I've expressed earlier in the thread, I was hoping to get my hands on the Stonemashers guidebook, if it isn't already bought from you. I know Mark Hammond expressed interest in that book. Please respond here or email me at climb_on_dude@yahoo.com.
Thanks!!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2018 - 11:30am PT
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Hi Mooch,
My apologies as I did not receive your email, but did send you one just now to the address you provided.
Thanks,
Randy
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2018 - 09:27am PT
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Here are some pictures of Arizona, New Mexico, TX and Oklahoma guides that have just been excavated.
BTW, No Duplicates here. What appear to be the same guide (e.g., A Cheap Way to Die/Fly) are different editions and/or with supplement material included.
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The Pilsner Prophet
Trad climber
Albuquerque
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Mar 28, 2018 - 01:57pm PT
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Do you have "Rocky Heights"? It was written by Jim Ericksen (Erickson?), and had Eldo Canyon, Flatirons, & Boulder Canyon. I'd saved my pennies, and wandered into Neptune Mountaineering, & there was Jim behind the counter when I bought it. Then, several years later, I was a climbing bum in N.C. An acquaintance announced he was going to Co. to climb. Foolishly, I loaned him my copy, and never saw it again. I'd love to replace it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 28, 2018 - 02:03pm PT
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As the dog returneth to it's own vomit......we return to our guidebooks;.......they are our binky, our passifiers, our baby blankets......they hold our hand through the storms of life. They represent the past, present, and future. Guidebooks can make America great again. Those who have lost or misplaced their favorite and precious guidebook know exactly what I am taking about. To some they seem only as paper and bindings. But we know better. Those who have woke up at night sleeping at the base of some 2,000 foot unknown adventure, looming in the darkness as a massive shape of wonderment, admiration, and anticipation;......best check the guidebook one more time with the headlamp and look at the various pitches for the hundredth time;....like a child looks at wrapped presents at Xmas time. (and yeah;....it's OK to rip that page out of the guidebook and bring it on the climb;...you can tape it back in the book later...don't want to screw up the climb because you don't have the info...such guidebooks wear the scars of real use, real adventure, and pay for themselves tenfold)......and some rainy damp evening, when you are sitting by the fireplace all warm and cozy and safe, you can get out that old Yosemite guidebook, that red rocks guide, or that Canyonlands guidebook, and see the wear and tear of many of your life's greatest adventures represented in the dirty, torn, weathered and worn guidebook, a sense of pride and honor will well up in your bosom and a smile comes over your face as to say........job well done. (This does not apply to millennials who take pictures of guidebook pages with their phones to bring on climbs or get their "guidebook" fixes off internet "guides"......or ...worse yet.....take pictures of other older real climber's guidebooks so they don't have to support guidebook authors with their purchases.)
so great! Lol thx TG!
Must...not...email...Randy...already...have...too...many...guidebooks...
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2018 - 04:43pm PT
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Do you have "Rocky Heights"? It was written by Jim Ericksen (Erickson?), and had Eldo Canyon, Flatirons, & Boulder Canyon. I'd saved my pennies, and wandered into Neptune Mountaineering, & there was Jim behind the counter when I bought it. Then, several years later, I was a climbing bum in N.C. An acquaintance announced he was going to Co. to climb. Foolishly, I loaned him my copy, and never saw it again. I'd love to replace it.
Yes, I have copies of the original and later printing/edition. Haven't started going through the Colorado guides yet. Lots of Colorado material, the only one sold is the Garden of Gods 1st.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Mar 28, 2018 - 08:26pm PT
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Oklaoma on the Rocks. Me want. I just saw that one, I'll PM you.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2018 - 08:28pm PT
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Johntp. Sorry, it has been sold already.
Thanks.
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Ledge Rat
Trad climber
Michigan
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Mar 29, 2018 - 01:23pm PT
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Package arrived today. Thanks Randy!
Jeff
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2018 - 02:12pm PT
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I'm glad you are happy and it arrived safely. Thanks.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Mar 29, 2018 - 02:14pm PT
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AFAIK:
1. Hamie has the original hand-written Baldwin guidebook to Squamish, from 1963/64.
2. Much of the information in it is reproduced in A Climber's Guide to the Coastal Ranges of B.C. (Culbert, with lots of help from Woodsworth and others), 1965.
3. Glenn has the typed version, and the Baldwin family has a copy. It was never formally published, but if anything, copyright belongs to the family. So there are very few copies in existence, and it would not seem good form to blithely make copies without their consent.
4. There is only one copy of the Crag Rat's Guide to UBC, although it is now online, as is Glenn's 1967 guide.
5. There is a "big" (medium) wall guide to Squamish, published about ten years ago, but in very limited quantities.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 29, 2018 - 02:29pm PT
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Some High Sierra Guides including 1st and later printings.
That Hervey Voge guide is beautiful. Well reproduced Ansel Adams photo's and lofty writing.
Here is his description of arriving at the north rim of the Middle Fork of the King's River, perhaps the top of Tehipite Dome, looking south toward the Gorge of Despair:
For wild and rugged grandeur the Kings River Canyon region of the Sierra Nevada has no peer. A mighty panorama, beginning at the wandering streams, sweeping up the terrifying gorges past jagged spires, and culminating in towering granite peaks presents itself to the adventurer. It is indeed an awe inspiring sight to break out of the pine forest onto the rim of Tehipite Valley and gaze across at the opposite mountain wall, fantastically cut up into multiple flying turrets soaring in the blue haze. The great river, four thousand feet below, sends its dull roar echoing about the valley.
Hervey Voge, 1954
That book is a gem, and anyone who doesn't snap it up from you is nuts. My 1st ed. copy is among my favorite guides.
FWIW every time this thread pops up I misread the title as "Climbing Guidebook Correction Being Sold." ;-)
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2018 - 03:32pm PT
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Kris, now that is a title that I should work on.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Mar 30, 2018 - 08:01am PT
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Been combing through these for the forgotten obscure.
Thanks Randy!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2018 - 08:49am PT
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Its Gunks Friday.
A variety of different Gunks guides.
Of the mimeo or xerox type of guides, only the
1. Some comments on Gran's Guide... (bottom left), and
2. Shawangunk Grit '84 are original.
The others a copies of various degrees.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2018 - 09:36am PT
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Tad, Not sure about any Lover's Leap being left, but have a couple other No. Cal., Castle Crags, etc. Will have to look. email me and I can get back to you.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Mar 30, 2018 - 12:03pm PT
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Post up your Valle Azteca guide.
Loved using that one quite a few years ago...rusted bolts, ocean breeze and the ranchero music blasting from the soccer field below was an awesome time!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2018 - 01:46pm PT
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Ah yes, the Valle Azteca.
Here it is plus the CA & AZ Bibliography.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Mar 30, 2018 - 02:14pm PT
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OH MY GOD! It's the end of an era.
Did hell freeze over?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2018 - 10:23pm PT
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DEE, Its Spring Cleaning!
And, finding new caretakers.
BTW, I have a few extra copies of the CA/AZ Bibliography if anyone is interested.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 30, 2018 - 11:21pm PT
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Randy's CA, AZ bibliography is pretty good, and an interesting read, even for somebody like me who has never climbed there. IT's too bad he didn't do a few more (esp. for WA, OR).
But then, I'm a bit weird: I actually like bibliographies.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Mar 31, 2018 - 11:14am PT
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Check!!
Your collection may have been a record holder?
If you love something, let it go.
I'm going to engage in some Spring cleaning as well. I need to have a garage sale!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 31, 2018 - 08:56pm PT
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I think they are pretty Neate myself.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2018 - 10:24am PT
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Some what is left of Washington area guides;
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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DEE EE I sent you a member to member email but I think it may not get through...
rock cairn [at] hot mail
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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I just received my purchased guidebooks, which were packaged very well. Thank you Randy!
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ATS
climber
Mountain Project
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I have many but not all Josh guidebooks. Parting with any of those?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2018 - 01:59pm PT
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I have many but not all Josh guidebooks. Parting with any of those?e Here
I had a few extras of some early guides (sold some) and a a few extras of some of my earlier guides (e.g.,Sport Climbing 1st & 2nd, and Supplement with Big Al). But, not really much I plan on parting with.
Do have a extra Joshua Tree Routes and Bouldering (2010) and Joshua Tree Climbs (2015) if of any interest.
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Ledge Rat
Trad climber
Michigan
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Package #2 arrived today, thanks again!
Jeff
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mine arrived yesterday Randy. Fantastic packaging and condition. Thank you so much! I got dinged again with duty form Canada Customs. Certainly didn't expect that, but what can you do?
Kris
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ArmandoWyo
climber
Wyoming
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What great fun for guidebook junkie, even if you can’t buy. Makes me a little less self-conscious about not climbing any more. Simply old age for a climber.
This is off-track, but if you’re lucky enough to acquire some of Randy’s trove would you consider adding it someday to the only collection set up to preserve climbing guidebooks? Right, give them away so that another important part of climbing history is preserved.
Don’t need to part with valued guidebooks now, but think about putting donation in a will or letter to your own family that you want your guidebooks to go to the Guidebook Collection at the AAC Library.
A decade ago, I donated my guidebook collection to the AAC Library. A modest collection of 400 U.S. guides, but including the first Valley, Sierra, and bouldering guides. The collection and all additions are permanently protected. Kept in rare books section. If want to know more about it, here’s a link.
The collection is not to be finite, but grow by donations and acquisitions. Most new guides are donated by publishers. But it’s those first guides that are the necessary part of climbing history.
Think about it.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Armando, this is a fine idea. And for U.S. citizens, I believe you get a tax receipt for the fair marked value of the guides.
I will probably send some of my scarce US guides to the AAC; there seems to be little home for them here in Canada.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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^^^I'm sure a few of us on this thread might be interested...
(Assume you meant AAC instead of ACC)
Anyone holding a 1908 Canadian Alpine Journal they'd like to part with? Darn things are more scarce than the 1907...
Ditto the great packaging Randy...thanks!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Yes, AAC, of course. 1908 CAJ is very scarce, one of the scarcest. I'm not letting mine go.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2018 - 03:48pm PT
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It has been great fun to dig through the boxes and find all manner of guides, from early mineos to much more modern tomes. Equally as rewarding has been passing these on to others who will care and appreciate them. Making sure they are packed very well and arrive safely is important.
Other than the few photos posted, I haven't made any lists. But, as people email me and ask about particular areas, states or even regions, I try to send pictures of what there may be available.
I haven't even begun to work through the huge amount of Colorado guides.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2018 - 01:53pm PT
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Found yet another box of oversized guides, mimeos, preliminary and early xerox guides.
Here are a few neat Colorado items that came out of that box. If you are looking for Colorado guides, I have well over 100 different, all older and out of print. Best to email me randykvogel gee male with what guides you may be seeking as most will go first come first serve.
Thanks
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2018 - 08:59pm PT
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Thought I'd post this as many of the very early xerox and mimeo guides (among others) are being snapped up as soon as I dig a new pile of them out of a newly discovered box.
These early guides have always been a favorite of mine, rich in history of our sport, and few ever survive.
Someone already has dibs on this one, but it is (to me at least) so cool, I had to post it.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2018 - 07:39am PT
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A rare Preliminary 2 Volume edition of the Tetons Guide. Already gone.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2018 - 10:05am PT
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A fun little Lovers Leap guide map.
$25 plus shipping.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2018 - 11:17am PT
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Here are a few early guides that are seldom offered. Email me if any interest randykvogel gee male.
14 Thousand Feet, 2nd Edition in Near Fine
Mountaineering in RMNP, Back cover missing, otherwise VG-
Mountain Records of the Sierra Nevada, 1937 Original copy #14
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2018 - 07:57pm PT
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Yosemite Guides:
1. 1971 Ed., 1st printing, Postbound (As New) SOLD
2. 1971 Ed., 2nd printing, 1972. (Fine)
High Sierra
3. Smatko 1971 Very hard to find. (Fine+) SOLD
Cascades
4. Beckey 1953 rev edition (Fine)
5. Beckey 1961 SIGNED by Fred (Fine)
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2018 - 09:58am PT
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Lots of Colorado Guides. I can send larger images for guides of interest. Some are signed by author, some are different editions or printings.
randykvogel gee male
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2018 - 11:13am PT
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Vulgarian Digest anyone?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 15, 2018 - 04:33pm PT
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Yes, please!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2018 - 08:48am PT
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Most of The CO guides didn't last long. And, could have sold multiples of VD.
Anyway, here are a few Odds and Ends and cools stuff.
Cathedral Supplement
This is the Original Typewritten sheets - you can see the punch-through (with copies of the cliff maps)
Alan Nelson Tuolumne Guide
One of the original copies of Alan's guide, with his witty Title on the cover.
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Bryant Boatright
climber
Norman
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Apr 17, 2018 - 09:57pm PT
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Do you still have a copy Southern Exposure?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 18, 2018 - 06:22am PT
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Do you still have a copy Southern Exposure?
I notice you're from Normal. Used to do a lot of climbing at quartz in the 80's. Cheers to ya!
Randy, I'll send you a PM; I see something spicy.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2018 - 08:35am PT
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Southern Exposure. Managed to find it hidden amongst some Southern area guides.
Here are some other South and Southeastern Guides for good measure, a number of them signed.
email me randykvogel gee male
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Bryant Boatright
climber
Norman
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Apr 19, 2018 - 07:57am PT
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I notice you're from Normal. Used to do a lot of climbing at quartz in the 80's. Cheers to ya!
Right on! It's an oasis in the flatlands here
Randy I sent you an email
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2018 - 10:08am PT
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Some New/Old Miscellaneous Guides
randykvogel gee male for inquiries.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2018 - 10:20am PT
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I posted a climbing/campaign video on the ST thread below of Katie Hill, who is a climber running for Congress in California's 25th Congressional District (Santa Clarita, Simi Valley, Palmdale, Lancaster, and the northern part of the San Fernando Valley). She is doing route(s) at Texas Canyon.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3081936/Katie-Hill-Congressional-Candidate-Climbing-in-Campaign-Ad
As an incentive to other climbers, guidebook aficionados, and those who might support Katie's campaign (polls show the race very competitive), I made the following offer on that thread (and thought it appropriate to make it here as well):
I have about 4 Joshua Tree Routes and Bouldering still in the shrink wrap along with about a dozen brand new Joshua Tree Climbs. For each SuperTopo member who contributes at least $40 to Katie's campaign (Use Act Blue), I will send you a copy of one of these guides (signed if you like). An $80 or more contribution will get you both.
Just email me randykvogel gee male with a screen shot or email confirming your contribution along with your mailing address and I'll ship the guide(s) to you Priority Mail.
This offer is limited to 16 guides (all I have).
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 28, 2018 - 10:30am PT
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sketchy-
Sent you an email on the enchanted rock guide. Couldn't make out anything but "Climbing at Enchanted Rock".
Just gotta say sketchy packages these things up with the same care as the routes he put up. Nice!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2018 - 10:47am PT
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Goat Rock Guide (orig), Fern Canyon (orig), Stanford Buildering (orig?), and Jenny Lake Boulder (copy).
Mt. Climbing in Maine (cool old funky Depression Era guide), Devils Elbow 1st edition, and Boston Rolls (w/o the Boston Rocks "supplement").
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2018 - 10:46am PT
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Some Other Washington and Oregon Guides still available:
Oregon (copy of original Climbing Guide to the Oregon Mountains by R.L. Ingraham - manuscript/Guide)
Washington
Many different Cascade & Olympic Mts Guides (all different editions/printings), a few signed guides, etc.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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I'll take that signed Beckey guide off your hands if not too late. PM sent.
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Wow. I had Fred sign that edition, too!
Do you have an original version of Fred's Leavenworth or Index guides?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2018 - 04:25pm PT
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Bob,
All of the Leavenworth, Index, etc. guides (many more posted way up-thread) have all been sold.
Looks like the 1st editions of the Cascade Alpine Guides are also tsken, as well as a few others.
Randy
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2018 - 05:25pm PT
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Happy, you're certainly no idiot, but not so sure about me.
Thanks for the correction. I should look a bit more carefully.
Here are two more interesting items:
Pretty Sure this is Devils Tower in Wyoming:
And, this obscure item is northern NY State:
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