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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2018 - 05:17pm PT
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Thank you, Paul.
I am not in a hurry to find everything out. There are no signs in the area that say anything about climbing. I hope it stays that way.
One mystery that would be good to clear up a little is the raptor nesting. The guidebook I have shows a crag called The Amphitheater as closed for falcon nesting, but that is probably not current. I suspect that there aren't resources to check on falcons like there are for Squamish and that it may be best to just stay off the rocks during the early part of the climbing season. Or it may be that the falcons nest elsewhere. I think they prefer small ledges and there aren't many such in evidence on the faces I have looked at.
I met a trail runner named Dave from Squamish on Maxwell. He had done some local climbing and told me about another person who had more current info on the situation. Michael Levy managed to put me in touch with Nigel and he was happy to get together with me next time I am over there.
Buns In The Oven had a start too hard for me. I moved to the other line just right of it. I expect to figure out the start to BIO eventually. No chalk to guide me and I am not tuned in to pebble holds, yet. They are quite solid, though.
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Paul_in_Van
Trad climber
Near Squampton
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Hey MH2;
looked at the guide. Seems like the quartzite crag is in the area I suggested, but apparently there is access from the top. Perhaps this avoids the private land issue? No further details at this time. If you are serious about going there, then let me know and I can reach out to a few folks to see what the deal is.
Have you tried the bouldering up from Burgoyne Bay at the base of Maxwell? Is a nice small hike and very cool to hang out in the forest and boulders and such. If I am climbing alone, I go here rather than setup a top rope. Landings are pretty good (as long as you are thinking about it) and the holds for the most part are solid.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2018 - 04:58pm PT
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I am quite impressed by the Burgoyne Bay boulders, Paul. My two visits have been in wet cold weather but it should be great once the hotter days come.
I would be glad for anything you can tell me. The messaging over SuperTopo probably no longer works. I can be reached at
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 07:59pm PT
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Raptor update, etc.
I've seen a peregrine. About 10 metres from me on an outcrop. Did not seem to mind me.
I've seen the randomly assembled sticks of peregrine nests inside the large cavities (tafoni), but no signs of recent occupancy.
I met a birder in the meadows below Maxwell. He told me that peregrines would not be shy about letting me know if I got too near a nesting site of theirs. He said they would make a lot of noise and might swoop toward me. I thought, 'sure, okay.'
Then I was up at the top of a face and noticing a bright orange streak in the waters of Burgoyne Bay below. Then I noticed an eagle circling higher. Cool photo on the way, I thought.
As I was taking the camera out another movement caught my eye. I saw a small bird quickly rising far above the eagle. Then it shot downwards. The eagle did a roll and took off away from the cliff.
I learned that I did not want to risk a peregrine diving at me. Made me think of a charge by a grizzly. You don't want to find out if it's a bluff or not.
The orange streak in the bay was noctiluca scintillans according to the paper.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2018 - 08:00pm PT
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I am adopting the SSI ethos and keeping my mouth shut about the climbing. But I am doing it on mere 60 million year old formations.
I would not trust the CIA to keep a secret for 60 seconds, but the volume of disinformation covers up any transgression.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2018 - 06:54pm PT
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As you may know by now, Salt Spring Island has the highest climbing talent per capita of anywhere. Hence:
Wish I could be in the audience.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 16, 2018 - 07:23pm PT
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Wish I could be in the audience.
You and me both.
I'll be exploring my own new home that week, but once we're settled, and climbing weather rolls around again in the spring, I'll try to get down for a visit.
In the meantime, be careful of that conglomerate. Yeah, it can be solid, but it can also be kitty litter somehow stacked vertically and just waiting for someone to reduce it back to its angle of repose.
Pinto Rock, which was mentioned a few times upthread, is the weirdest "rock" I've ever seen.
And, should you ever want to trade kitty litter for granite, we have rather a lot of it in our new back yard.
Cheers
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2018 - 07:46pm PT
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A bolt?
Just use gear. Offset nuts and cams.
Looking left
I hope we can get together sometime. I may need a refresher course on granite.
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