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Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2018 - 01:32pm PT
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No problems ! I hope your issue will be solved soon !
Anyway we are just arrived in Moab and it was snowing at Monticello. So I think that IC will not be climbable before the weekend ...
Thanks for those information ! For sure we'll be lowly with the grade ! I think that 5,7 to 5,10 will be enough for the first times !
We've spent few days in squamish last spring and 5,8 or 5,9 was the max we've done !
Thks for the black Canyon invitation ! But I think that we must train our jamming skills on single pitch before to go multipitching . Except if there are super easy routes there ?
We already have tape and was wondering if "cracks gloves" was a good thing to have ... Or if it was cheating ? 😉
You looks to move a lot and spend lot of time climbing. I'm sure we'll be able to meet to another place later !
We plan to stay for sevrals weeks in Utah. Around Moab in a first time, and then moving to other places like Zion, Brice Canyon etc... Then we'll go to the Colorado, the Rockies close to Denver, devils tower ...
We stay in contact ! My phone is +33783135591. It's a french number and seems to have sometime some troubles ... I'll try to send you a text. Otherwise we can contact here !
Have good climbing time !
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Others hear will know way better than I, but back in the day, tape was considered way better than gloves...
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spectreman
Trad climber
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For crack climbing skills you should stop in at Vedauwoo and Fremont Canyon https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105828723/wine-and-roses on your way up to Devils Tower. Great free camping at both spots.
I live in Lyons just North of Boulder and on the way to RMNP, you're welcome to stop by here for showers or a bed for the night. I've done extensive climbing in the RMNP including lots of Diamond routes, I can give you some specific beta if you need it.
I hope you have an amazing trip!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Corentin...tape gloves are fine for gold camalot cracks and larger. They add too mucg girth to your hand for smaller cracks although Outdoor Research now makes a very thin one. I find taping allows for a more precise fit.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Bad news, its raining in SW Utah and its heading your way.
Good news, by Saturday you will bake in the sun.
edit: and everybody knows it, and while the Utah cops stop anything with a Colorado plate to check for weed, there just aren't enough of them to stop the hordes from Boulder.
A tooth issue? Never saw that one in The Art Of Climbing Down Gracefully.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Should follow Donini to Devils Tower. Great place to spend some days with spectacular crack climbing. If I remember right Jim told me some funny stories about trolling the rangers in 70's when climbing there and I thought he said he had not been back since.
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Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2018 - 08:52pm PT
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Hi there,
First jam climb today at wall street in Moab ! That so cool !
Taping seems to be nice !
We will go to devils tower, but later. For now we've driven enough and are too excited to leave moab's area !
Thks for the weather web site !
Spectreman, that's another super nice offer ! The shower will maybe be welcome, but overall meeting guys while drinking beers will be a pleasure ! I don't know when we'll be around there. I'll send you a message when I'll know !
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Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2018 - 01:18pm PT
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Hi there !
Moab's trip is almost over. That was a crazy month. We fall in love with the creek ! But there is still so much to do that we must hit the road to Colorado.
Based on recommendations we want to go to : rifle, Black canyon, Eldorado canyon, the Rockies ... Do you have advices on those spots ? Especially on the three last ? Any nice and easy routes to recommend (mostly 5.9 max with potentially some 5.10± pitches) ?
In the Rockies I would love to climb the diamond. We'll be there around June 20th (more or less), will it be too early? Do you have other nice Alpine course to recommend there that will be climbable at that time ?
About Devil’s Tour and the Teton, same questions. Do you have routes to recommend? Is early July a good season ?
We’re also wondering if there is some climbs in the Glacier Park ?
If anyone there live or plan to be in those areas at those times and want to join us for a climbing day or even just for a beer, send me a message !!
Thks for your help guys !!
Corentin.
P:S : Donini, I sent you a text one or 2 weeks ago. Did you received it ? My phone have some trouble ...
Lucie enjoying the creek :
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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If you like alpine climbing, are able stomach the hordes of IC, and don't hate walking a little bit to reach your climbing, RMNP should be on your list. Lumpy ridge has great cragging, there are plenty of nice snow climbs up higher to cool off on, and the rock is so much easier to trust than in the (blessedly spectacular) Moab area.
my wife and I, we are in RMNP most week days, have a fine spot up there, and are Fort Collins based. Vedauwoo is pretty much the home crag for us, and so we must suggest that you consider jamming some wicked, wide Sherman granite there. we have guidebooks and plenty of beta to share if you are in the area and wanting for advice or comradery.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Corentin-
The Black Canyon is gonna be hot but RIGHT NOW ain't too bad, with these clouds.
For not-too-hard and long enough to be worth the bother I like the Tourist Route (5.9, ~14 pitches) , anything on the Comic Relief buttress, the Journey Home. The shady side will obviously be cooler but I've only done a couple things, of which Crystal Vision .10+ (the 5.11- pitch is bolted face, froggie-friendly) might be good for you.
The Diamond might be good in late June- if the snowmelt is finished and the monsoon hasn't begun, this can be a good time. Get local beta, maybe on mountainproject or from the horse's mouth on here.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I didn't get your text. I’m back in Ouray...if you want to climb in the Black, I know good routes in the shade. I was there a few days ago. I can show you the area.
The Diamond should be good in late June as well as the Tetons in early July. I guided for seven years in the Tetons and know it well.
Forget Devil’s Tower...there is a voluntary closure for the entire month of June.
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Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2018 - 09:44am PT
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The bravecowboy : That would be nice ! We don't know when we'll be around there yet, but I’ll send you a message as soon as I know ! And yes, it’s probably a better idea to go to Vedauwoo and skip Rifle.
Rhodo-router, thx for the infos on black canyon, I'll check that on mountain project.
Donini, it would be super nice if you have time to show us the place ! I think we'll live Moab tonight, stop in Grand junction, and arrive in the canyon between tuesday and wednesday night and stay for a week or so… Will you be free one of those next days ?
Maybe I can try to call you this evening ?
I guess we'll have to figure out a plan. We can't miss Devil's Tower!!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Call me tonight...going hiking now. I’m around for the next couple of weeks and need no excuse to go to the BC. Make sure you go to the North Rim....the head climber ranger is a good friend...ask for Felipe.
I also suggest you consider visiting me in Ouray for a couple of days. We are in a beautiful location at 2,350 meters with excellent sport climbing, hiking, mountain scenery and hot springs. From here it is less then two hours from the BC. It might be s nice change of pace and I could help you plan the rest oy your trip including Devil’s Tower.
I will certainly help you become familiar with the BC!
Edit...if you want to stop in Ouray before the BC come in the back way from Moab. You go south 22 miles and skirt the back side of the La Sal Mountains and go thru Norwood, Co. It is a 2.5 to 3 hr. drive and quit beautiful. From Ouray to the BC North Rim is a two hour drive.
I can give you precise directions when you call.
If you use google maps my address is 54 Cascade Drive, Ouray, Co. 81427.
Hope to hear from you this evening.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I missed your call this evening....call me in the morning.
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Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2018 - 08:51pm PT
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Yes, sorry for the voice message, it was probably incomprehensible ...
Sure, I try tomorrow morning !
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Corentin...your call came in at exactly the time another one did. Please try again.
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Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2018 - 01:46pm PT
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After nice climbs in the Black with Jim, we are on the road to RMNP !! We 'll be there in one or 2 days and will spend 1/2 weeks there.
Spectreman, will you be in Lyons Monday night or Tuesday and have free time to meet ? Maybe email are easier to communicate. Here is mine : corentinbruet@hotmail.fr.
Thebravecowboy : you said that you are one the RMNP during the week or the week end ? Same thing, we can communicate by email to try to meet either in the Rockies or on our way to the Tetons
Cheers guys,
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 10, 2018 - 03:25pm PT
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I just got back from spending two days in the Black Canyon with Froggies in the west (Coco and Lucie. They are a thoroughly delightful young couple...the sort of people who keep an old salt like me from becoming a curmudgeon....almost, anyway. If you meet them on their western campaign show them your neighborhood...you will have fun!
I think they will long remember the Black...isn’t that what climbing is all about?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 12, 2018 - 04:42pm PT
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How about a TR?
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