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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Car-camping in the Eastern Sierra is easy if you're discrete. I haven't been harassed in the backcountry, but I always get permits anyways, because walk-in permits are free and almost always available. Camping in the Tetons or Front Range is a bit trickier, and Yosemite and Zion are nightmares. The Tetons are worth the struggle, though. Also, check out the North Cascades if you have the time.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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If you take donini's offer yer gonna have to find yer own escargot.
At least he doesn't beat his clients like Armand Charlet.
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Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2018 - 02:27am PT
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Hi there,
And what about backcountry camping ? In high Sierra or elsewhere. Do you need permits ? Do we have to book in advance ? For Mount Whitney for example. It’s complex to get one ? And do you book just for a day ? What append if it’s rain that day. Is it possible to change it ?
We are now thinking about the gear to bring.
In france I use to have : A 80m long single rope for singlepitch
A 60m long double rope for multipitch.
And I have a 60m long rope (a joker) for mountaineering (like ridge climbing).
What is your advice. I am thinking to buy a 60m long rap rope (dyneema one) to go with the joker. But is it enough ? I think that with that plan it’s not possible to tope rope anything than 30m …
What do you usually use ? as for Ic as for the sierra or the other places…
A friend of mine also recommend me to buy a GPS/ Sat Phone ( inReach of Gramin). He told me that if we want to go do some mountaineering in US and especially in Canada, it was something indispensable. Any advices ?
Thaaaaaaaanks once again guys !
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Mar 17, 2018 - 04:41am PT
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Good advice here.
When you visit Yosemite, follow all speed limits. The rangers/cops generally have no mercy on non-US citizens, since half the visitors are not from the US. I suppose you don't have to worry too much if you get a ticket, unless you plan to return to the US, in the near future.
I wish that I could see your faces when you look at EL CAP for the first time. HAVE FUN!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Mar 17, 2018 - 07:06am PT
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You Frenchies will have a blast! Getting the grand tour of IC with Jim would be a real treat. Re. Sat. phone: I can see the value, but since I've never climbed with anything like that, it's hard to see it as essential. Unless you've got money to burn--not--I'd skip it.
Regarding the Sierras: Yeah, weekends can be a pain, especially in the National Parks. Access to great climbing and camping options can be found on the east side of the range.
As for gear selection: I'm partial to a 70 meter lead line for single pitch cragging. It seems that more and more a 60 meter line will cause complications.
Have a great trip and report back. My family is a big part French from way back in the day. Viva la France!
BAd
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monolith
climber
state of being
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Mar 17, 2018 - 07:13am PT
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For Whitney permits, you can often get a permit during the week by showing up early at the Visitors center. They may have a mini lottery. Weekends are harder because the demand is much higher. Other areas are not as hard to get a permit.
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Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2018 - 09:15am PT
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Bad Climber, you say that a 70m single rope is enough for single pitch cragging ? Cause in the IC guidebook, many routes seems to do more than 45m … Is there intermediary belay/abseil stations ?
Isn’t it better to bring a 80m long single rope for places like IC and or a 60m long double rope or a 60m long joker plus a 60m rap line for places like the sierra, Yosemite or devils tower ?
What do you think about that ? Cause I think that a 70m one will be a bit short for one pitch cragging, but to long and heavy to carry for multipitch alpine climbs …
About the inReach system, I think that he told me that not for places like IC, but more ones like the canadian’s mountain !
I have no doubts in the fact that we will have a blast many times in that trip ;)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 17, 2018 - 09:23am PT
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Don’t waste your time on Whitney, there are much better peaks without hordes.
Forget a sat phone, unless you are nouveau riche. Buy a cheap phone at 7-11 or Walmart
and just pay by the month. Give it to some homeless person when you leave.
Same with GPS. Join the AAA auto club for $50 and they will give you all the maps you
want for all the US for free AND provide roadside assistance!
de rien. 🤓
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 17, 2018 - 10:05am PT
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Welcome.... after you get schooled by Jim (a priceless gift by th way) make sure you go and visit The Needles in The Southern Sierra... home of some of the finest crack climbs around. And you get FREE camping in a very nice thick pine Forrest. The only permit required is a FIRE permit and you get that for free if you go to CAL FIRE .... watch the video, pass a simple test, all on- line, you will need this to even fire up a gas stove in California’s Bone dry Forrest....
I would also add the recomdation that you visit Shuteye Ridge... that is south of Yosemite and due east of Fresno CA. Again free camping with some very interesting sport climbing on knobby granite.
Both of the spots I mentioned are good in June, July And August.
Keep us current with your travels... you might have folks from ST join you, I’m always interested in showing off my horrible French.
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StefanS
Trad climber
Leavenworth WA
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Mar 17, 2018 - 11:56am PT
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Hey Corentin
What Rielly said about AAA, its worth having a membership. They have insurance and discounts you can take advantage of. I would recommend the 100 mile towing option as well, if you use it once it will pay for it self.
Oh yeah, check out Squamish BC
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Mar 17, 2018 - 12:12pm PT
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Yeah, an 80 plus the double 60's would be fine. In any event, you'll need a second rope even for some single pitch cragging. Of course, 2 X 45 = 90. Yer in trouble without a second line. I've just found that in most of my cragging in the eastern Sierras, Joshua Tree, etc., that a 70 is plenty. For example, Pine Creek Canyon--awesome climbing--seems to be usually set up for rapping with a single 70 on the multi-pitch routes. Mandatory 80's seem to be rare, but the extra cord is nice to have.
Berg heil.
BAd
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Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2018 - 11:57am PT
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Hi there !
After a long flight, a week of van hunting in SF, we are finally on the road to Moab ! We'll be around there in 2 or three days I guess.
We re actually at Flagstaff. We'll stop at monument Valley and then it'll be Climbing O'clock !!
If people are around IC and want to share a beer, a climbing day or whatever, let me know !
See you guys !
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Apr 29, 2018 - 01:21pm PT
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welcome froggies!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 29, 2018 - 01:24pm PT
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Laissez les bons temps rouler!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 29, 2018 - 05:52pm PT
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Corentin...I’m moving my efforts to the Black Canyon but I can meet you in IC for two days to get you oriented. On Tuesday and Wednesday the weather looks iffy but beginning Thursday it looks great. I know the Creek as well as anyone. It’s a special place and I would love to get you started right.
Have you done much pure crack climbing? How is your cam assortment? I don’t even bring nuts to IC. An 80 meter rope is what I use there but a shorter rope and a tag line also work.
I used to teach crack climbing clinics at IC so I am very familiar with the best climbs to introduce you to the climbing there.
I am available to climb on Thursday and Friday. Let me know if this works for you.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 29, 2018 - 06:41pm PT
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Now that's a world-class offer that shouldn't be missed...
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Apr 29, 2018 - 08:02pm PT
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Indeed! Legendary climber, Ex-American Alpine Club president, & all-around hero, Donini, is a wonderful person to go climbing with, & he certainly has great knowledge of Indian Creek climbing & techniques.
Bring fine red wine for your new friend.
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Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2018 - 05:05pm PT
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Hi ,
That even more than a world class offer !
Doini, We will maybe arrive between Tuesday evening and Wednesday morning at IC. I don't know where we are going to sleep yet, but it's seems that there is 2 campground, so we'll probably let our van in one of those 2.
If you're okey for Thursday morning it's good for us. Just give us a a meeting point and a time !
We have quite a great rack. Nothing bigger than camalot 4. And between 2 and 3 each size between 0,5 and 2.
See you soon !!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Have a great trip!
BAd
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Bad news Corentin, I have a tooth issue and need to see the dentist on Thursday. I then have meetings with Chris Bonington, an old friend, this weekend. I’ll be in the Black Canyon (you’re welcome to join) next Monday to Wednesday followed by a quick trip to Devils Tower. I then go to Yosemite foe a week to attend the Bridwell memorial. As you can see....my window for IC has closed.
Some tips for IC. I see are from a mountain area in France and are probably a very experienced climber. Keep in mind that the splitter cracks in IC have a very steep learning curve, even for accomplished climbers. Many times I have witnessed 8a and better climbers from Europe get shut down on their first 5.10 hand cracks. Having 2 or 3 hand size cams probably will not be enough for your first forays. If you have done a lot of sport climbing finger cracks may seem relatively easier but you want to come away being solid on the basic hand jam (gold and blue camalot size) everything else works down or up from that. For your wife the comfortable size will likely be in the red to gold camalot size...hand size matters.
My suggestion is for you to go to the Super Crack area. It has the best collection of moderates (5.10’s) in IC. American crack climbers tend to be very open and accomodating and helpful when they encounter climbers from overseas who are new to the area. I am sure that you will be able to hitch a ride on one of the many top ropes that will be set up on climbs like 3AM Crack, Incredible Hand Crack, Gorilla Crack, The Wave, Super Crack etc. i highly suggest that you top rope some of these cracks before you start leading them, especially with your limited rack. You will also very likely encounter other climbers from Europe there.
Once you have established relationships (easy to do) and have top roped some climbs you should have no trouble borrowing cams from other climbers. You will want to go to the more crowded cliffs like Super Crack buttress because they will have the most climbers to team up with and the best selection of moderates.
Other cliffs to consider are Donnelly Canyon (a few minutes from Super Crack), the Optimator and Way Rambo. I think that Blue Sun at the Way Rambo cliff is the single best hand crack for someone’s first lead.
Also, remember to tape. The rock might not seem very abrasive but nearly every move you make is a jam and if you don’t tape from the very beginning you will likely regret it.
If you camp at Creek Pasture you will be able to meet many climbers and have access to good bathrooms.
Have fun and feel free to ask me for any additional information about IC or any other areas you plan to go to....I will likely have been there. If you have a phone feel free to call me at 970 318 1334.
Lastly, put the Black Canyon on your list. It’s not far from IC and has mellow camping on the North Rim and some of the best multi pitch trad in America!
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