Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 61 of total 61 in this topic |
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 3, 2018 - 04:19am PT
|
Hi there,
I’m planning a big road trip in the west of the USA with my girlfriend.
We have already booked our dates. We arrive in an Francisco on april 17th and leave on august 28th .
The goal is to visit parks, to learn jam climbing, to rig some sweet highlines, maybe bring a paragliding … Well to have good time in your country which looks amazing !
As we stay for a long time, we’re thinking about buying a car. So that we can sell it when we leave and don’t lose too much money. (and we’re less than 25, so renting one is more than expensive)
So we’re looking for advices about that ! Where do you think that is the best place to buy and to register one ? I have a cousin who lives in SF and says that it’s a better idea to go to Las Vegas to buy one cause it’s cheaper than in SF … What do you think about that ?
Then we’ll look for car where we can sleep inside (a van, a pickup with a camper …) Do you know places there we can find goods one? I already know Craiglist, but is there any groups on facebook ? Any Cardealer you know ? Or is there anyone here who own one and plan to sell it ?
And do you know how long is it to register a car ?
Sorry for the boring logistical / administrative questions …. Next time we’ll come back with more interesting ones about climbing and stuff like that ;)
And thanks for your help !!!
Lucie and Corentin
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
The goal is to visit parks, to learn jam climbing, to rig some sweet highlines, maybe bring a paragliding …
Ur gonna die... ;)
...but seriously- there seem to be a number of websites and forums online about buying a car as a foreiner. If you are under 25 I don't think any rental companies will rent a car to you, so it may be your only option. Something you can sleep in will save you a lot of money in lodgings.
The follow-up comments after this article seem to be very helpful with how to register and insure a car short term.
http://www.atewasabi.com/2015/10/how-to-buy-a-car-in-the-usa-as-foreigner/
I don't have recommendations on where to buy one- there are a lot of options. San Francisco city is generally more expensive - for everything. I would personally go to a used car dealer. You will pay a little more, but they could also help walk you through paperwork and offer some gurantees on the car. You will need a USA address to use. Your cousin's will work if you buy in California . There's also instructions on how to create a "care of" address.
The western US has a lot to see. You'll have a great adventure once the vehicle gets sorted out.
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2018 - 04:51am PT
|
Thks for your advices !
To register a car you need an address in the state ? If you have an American address but not in the state where you want to register it's not possible ?
Good idea with the car dealer ...
Do you know any good one in SF or around ?
|
|
jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
|
|
Bring a gun...
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2018 - 07:39am PT
|
Wich kind of gun ?
A machine gun ? A glider gun ?
;) What do you mean ?
|
|
Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
A rope gun.
Las Vegas would be a good place to buy a used car. You could sell it for a profit later in places like San Francisco, San Diego, etc.
|
|
10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
|
|
I recommend buying a van, and not a truck with a camper on the back.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
If learning to jam is on your list head to Indian Creek first. April is prime time to be there. Let me know when you’re getting there and I’ll show you around.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
If you do buy a car, you also have to purchase car insurance and pay property taxes on the car you purchase when you register it.
It's possibly still better than renting but just some added costs to investigate...
Also, actually call a bunch of rental companies (Avis/Thrifty/Alamo) in the US and tell them your plans. Most will rent to 21 and older for a higher price. The deals you can get on long-term rentals can be really good if you call them. I got a brand new 4x4 Ford pickup truck with a cap for ~$1,000 a month for 4 months(albeit as a citizen and with numerous corporate discounts). That'd make your life a lot simpler with no registration/insurance/breakdown/sale problems...
|
|
Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
|
|
Go with a van. Older American vans have good clearance and are easy to work on. 4 wheel drive is generally unnecessary for your type of trip. CA has smog laws that can suck, vehicle needs to pass when you put it in your name.
The soccer mom type vans can be a very good deal, usually well maintained. Just rip out the seats that you do not need. Jucy rental vans are good, no worries about buying and selling or breakdowns
Definitely do the Donini tour of Indian Creek if jamming is on the menu
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2018 - 01:21am PT
|
If learning to jam is on your list head to Indian Creek first. April is prime time to be there. Let me know when you’re getting there and I’ll show you around.
That such a great proposition!!! I’ll contact you for sure !
So you say that Indian creek is the best place to learn jamming ? Better than Zion ?
Thanks for the idea Fear ! I’ll call them and see !
If I finally decide to buy a van, I think I found the solutions for the insurances (with progressive insurance).
I just do not know yet where is the best place to buy one to have the best deal : Sf or Sacramento or Vegas …
Probably better in LV (also cause of the smog laws), but I’ll not have any address in Nevada whereas I can get one in California …
But as someone says, if I buy it to a cardealer, he could do the paper and maybe give his address ….
I have had a look on juicy rental but it about 8 500 $ for the whole trip ….
I’ll come back soon for climbing infos ;)
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Indian Creek is the world’s best climbing venue for developing jamming skills...FAR better than Zion. Zion is a good place to go once you have the skills. April is prime time for IC.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
A used minivan on Craig's list (no salvage title) bought directly from a family. Campsite reservations can be a problem so being able to sleep in parking areas is key.
You don't need a gun unless you plan on climbing in Dade County, Florida.
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2018 - 06:11am PT
|
Hi !
I am now looking for advices about the climbing spots !!
As I said, our goal is to learn Jamming !
We plan to go to :
Indian creek, the high Sierra, Devil Towers, Yosemite, Moab, Zion, The rocky mountains close to Denver (the diamond), the great teton.
I guess that there are many more nice climbing places … Do you have some ideas ?
I already bought the guidebook of IC and the Sierra.
I read things about the Sierra. It’s look quite complex to climb there during July and August, isn’t it ?
It’s written that it’s crowded … Does it mean that there are many climbers or just a lot of people but not especially a lot of climbers ?
Camping regulations look strict ! What if you want to sleep in a van ?
Concerning the other spots , I haven’t found any guidebook in france … So any infos/advices - about rules, when to go, routes to do or anything who can help us - are welcome !!
In france there is a website call camptocamp where you can find many many skiing, mountaineering, climbing … infos, reports or topo. Is there any equivalence in the US ?
Thanks !!
|
|
monolith
climber
state of being
|
|
As for Sierra climbing crowds in the summer, it's mostly on weekends. There are lots of places to sleep in the van, particularly on BLM and National Forest land. But if you keep a low enough profile(don't hang around outside, leave early), you can sleep in lots more places. (A van with few windows helps) Avoid the parking lot of a campground that might be patrolled. An example would be Lover's Leap, but there are plenty of options nearby that are undeveloped and low key. Just ask around.
For online climbing info: https://www.mountainproject.com/
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
I suggest you start your trip in IC, it is the best venue in the world to prefect crack technique and late April is a prime weather time to be there. It starts getting quite warm in late May.
I will have my seasonal camp established and would be pleased to show you around. I know the area very well and was the founder of “Splitter Camps” which are still running.
Check out a 45 minute video by Peter Mortimer that I helped put together ten years ago about climbing in IC....it one the climbing award at the Banff Film Festival. It’s on a CD called...” Return to Sender.”
You will love the Creek...it’s the ideal combination of worldclass climbing, scenery, wildlife, Anasazi petroglyphs, and mellow camping.
Edit: Check out the high line in Return to Sender! I can give you beta on the Tetons (I guided there), the Diamond and some sweet areas (like the Black Canyon) that are not on your list.
|
|
Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
|
|
Quite the offer ^^^. That would be a pretty amazing way to start the trip.
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
It sounds like one of those opportunities that cant be passed up.
I would recommend that the French visitors spend as much time as possible in the desert because the experience will be totally different than anything found in Europe
|
|
Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
|
|
I think he likes wine, fish, and high mountains. Don't know which of those you can put in your carry on from France.
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2018 - 10:40am PT
|
Once we’ll get a car, IC will be our first destination for sure! Thx again for your proposition, I’ll send you a message once we’ll be there! Hopefully it won’t take too much time …
monolith, thx for the advices !
And what about backcountry camping ? It’s written that you need a permit. Do you really need to get it in advance during July and August ?
|
|
seano
Mountain climber
none
|
|
Car-camping in the Eastern Sierra is easy if you're discrete. I haven't been harassed in the backcountry, but I always get permits anyways, because walk-in permits are free and almost always available. Camping in the Tetons or Front Range is a bit trickier, and Yosemite and Zion are nightmares. The Tetons are worth the struggle, though. Also, check out the North Cascades if you have the time.
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
If you take donini's offer yer gonna have to find yer own escargot.
At least he doesn't beat his clients like Armand Charlet.
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2018 - 02:27am PT
|
Hi there,
And what about backcountry camping ? In high Sierra or elsewhere. Do you need permits ? Do we have to book in advance ? For Mount Whitney for example. It’s complex to get one ? And do you book just for a day ? What append if it’s rain that day. Is it possible to change it ?
We are now thinking about the gear to bring.
In france I use to have : A 80m long single rope for singlepitch
A 60m long double rope for multipitch.
And I have a 60m long rope (a joker) for mountaineering (like ridge climbing).
What is your advice. I am thinking to buy a 60m long rap rope (dyneema one) to go with the joker. But is it enough ? I think that with that plan it’s not possible to tope rope anything than 30m …
What do you usually use ? as for Ic as for the sierra or the other places…
A friend of mine also recommend me to buy a GPS/ Sat Phone ( inReach of Gramin). He told me that if we want to go do some mountaineering in US and especially in Canada, it was something indispensable. Any advices ?
Thaaaaaaaanks once again guys !
|
|
steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
|
|
|
Mar 17, 2018 - 04:41am PT
|
Good advice here.
When you visit Yosemite, follow all speed limits. The rangers/cops generally have no mercy on non-US citizens, since half the visitors are not from the US. I suppose you don't have to worry too much if you get a ticket, unless you plan to return to the US, in the near future.
I wish that I could see your faces when you look at EL CAP for the first time. HAVE FUN!
|
|
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
|
|
|
Mar 17, 2018 - 07:06am PT
|
You Frenchies will have a blast! Getting the grand tour of IC with Jim would be a real treat. Re. Sat. phone: I can see the value, but since I've never climbed with anything like that, it's hard to see it as essential. Unless you've got money to burn--not--I'd skip it.
Regarding the Sierras: Yeah, weekends can be a pain, especially in the National Parks. Access to great climbing and camping options can be found on the east side of the range.
As for gear selection: I'm partial to a 70 meter lead line for single pitch cragging. It seems that more and more a 60 meter line will cause complications.
Have a great trip and report back. My family is a big part French from way back in the day. Viva la France!
BAd
|
|
monolith
climber
state of being
|
|
|
Mar 17, 2018 - 07:13am PT
|
For Whitney permits, you can often get a permit during the week by showing up early at the Visitors center. They may have a mini lottery. Weekends are harder because the demand is much higher. Other areas are not as hard to get a permit.
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2018 - 09:15am PT
|
Bad Climber, you say that a 70m single rope is enough for single pitch cragging ? Cause in the IC guidebook, many routes seems to do more than 45m … Is there intermediary belay/abseil stations ?
Isn’t it better to bring a 80m long single rope for places like IC and or a 60m long double rope or a 60m long joker plus a 60m rap line for places like the sierra, Yosemite or devils tower ?
What do you think about that ? Cause I think that a 70m one will be a bit short for one pitch cragging, but to long and heavy to carry for multipitch alpine climbs …
About the inReach system, I think that he told me that not for places like IC, but more ones like the canadian’s mountain !
I have no doubts in the fact that we will have a blast many times in that trip ;)
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Mar 17, 2018 - 09:23am PT
|
Don’t waste your time on Whitney, there are much better peaks without hordes.
Forget a sat phone, unless you are nouveau riche. Buy a cheap phone at 7-11 or Walmart
and just pay by the month. Give it to some homeless person when you leave.
Same with GPS. Join the AAA auto club for $50 and they will give you all the maps you
want for all the US for free AND provide roadside assistance!
de rien. 🤓
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Mar 17, 2018 - 10:05am PT
|
Welcome.... after you get schooled by Jim (a priceless gift by th way) make sure you go and visit The Needles in The Southern Sierra... home of some of the finest crack climbs around. And you get FREE camping in a very nice thick pine Forrest. The only permit required is a FIRE permit and you get that for free if you go to CAL FIRE .... watch the video, pass a simple test, all on- line, you will need this to even fire up a gas stove in California’s Bone dry Forrest....
I would also add the recomdation that you visit Shuteye Ridge... that is south of Yosemite and due east of Fresno CA. Again free camping with some very interesting sport climbing on knobby granite.
Both of the spots I mentioned are good in June, July And August.
Keep us current with your travels... you might have folks from ST join you, I’m always interested in showing off my horrible French.
|
|
StefanS
Trad climber
Leavenworth WA
|
|
|
Mar 17, 2018 - 11:56am PT
|
Hey Corentin
What Rielly said about AAA, its worth having a membership. They have insurance and discounts you can take advantage of. I would recommend the 100 mile towing option as well, if you use it once it will pay for it self.
Oh yeah, check out Squamish BC
|
|
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
|
|
|
Mar 17, 2018 - 12:12pm PT
|
Yeah, an 80 plus the double 60's would be fine. In any event, you'll need a second rope even for some single pitch cragging. Of course, 2 X 45 = 90. Yer in trouble without a second line. I've just found that in most of my cragging in the eastern Sierras, Joshua Tree, etc., that a 70 is plenty. For example, Pine Creek Canyon--awesome climbing--seems to be usually set up for rapping with a single 70 on the multi-pitch routes. Mandatory 80's seem to be rare, but the extra cord is nice to have.
Berg heil.
BAd
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2018 - 11:57am PT
|
Hi there !
After a long flight, a week of van hunting in SF, we are finally on the road to Moab ! We'll be around there in 2 or three days I guess.
We re actually at Flagstaff. We'll stop at monument Valley and then it'll be Climbing O'clock !!
If people are around IC and want to share a beer, a climbing day or whatever, let me know !
See you guys !
|
|
hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2018 - 01:21pm PT
|
welcome froggies!
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2018 - 01:24pm PT
|
Laissez les bons temps rouler!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2018 - 05:52pm PT
|
Corentin...I’m moving my efforts to the Black Canyon but I can meet you in IC for two days to get you oriented. On Tuesday and Wednesday the weather looks iffy but beginning Thursday it looks great. I know the Creek as well as anyone. It’s a special place and I would love to get you started right.
Have you done much pure crack climbing? How is your cam assortment? I don’t even bring nuts to IC. An 80 meter rope is what I use there but a shorter rope and a tag line also work.
I used to teach crack climbing clinics at IC so I am very familiar with the best climbs to introduce you to the climbing there.
I am available to climb on Thursday and Friday. Let me know if this works for you.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2018 - 06:41pm PT
|
Now that's a world-class offer that shouldn't be missed...
|
|
Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2018 - 08:02pm PT
|
Indeed! Legendary climber, Ex-American Alpine Club president, & all-around hero, Donini, is a wonderful person to go climbing with, & he certainly has great knowledge of Indian Creek climbing & techniques.
Bring fine red wine for your new friend.
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2018 - 05:05pm PT
|
Hi ,
That even more than a world class offer !
Doini, We will maybe arrive between Tuesday evening and Wednesday morning at IC. I don't know where we are going to sleep yet, but it's seems that there is 2 campground, so we'll probably let our van in one of those 2.
If you're okey for Thursday morning it's good for us. Just give us a a meeting point and a time !
We have quite a great rack. Nothing bigger than camalot 4. And between 2 and 3 each size between 0,5 and 2.
See you soon !!
|
|
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
|
|
Have a great trip!
BAd
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Bad news Corentin, I have a tooth issue and need to see the dentist on Thursday. I then have meetings with Chris Bonington, an old friend, this weekend. I’ll be in the Black Canyon (you’re welcome to join) next Monday to Wednesday followed by a quick trip to Devils Tower. I then go to Yosemite foe a week to attend the Bridwell memorial. As you can see....my window for IC has closed.
Some tips for IC. I see are from a mountain area in France and are probably a very experienced climber. Keep in mind that the splitter cracks in IC have a very steep learning curve, even for accomplished climbers. Many times I have witnessed 8a and better climbers from Europe get shut down on their first 5.10 hand cracks. Having 2 or 3 hand size cams probably will not be enough for your first forays. If you have done a lot of sport climbing finger cracks may seem relatively easier but you want to come away being solid on the basic hand jam (gold and blue camalot size) everything else works down or up from that. For your wife the comfortable size will likely be in the red to gold camalot size...hand size matters.
My suggestion is for you to go to the Super Crack area. It has the best collection of moderates (5.10’s) in IC. American crack climbers tend to be very open and accomodating and helpful when they encounter climbers from overseas who are new to the area. I am sure that you will be able to hitch a ride on one of the many top ropes that will be set up on climbs like 3AM Crack, Incredible Hand Crack, Gorilla Crack, The Wave, Super Crack etc. i highly suggest that you top rope some of these cracks before you start leading them, especially with your limited rack. You will also very likely encounter other climbers from Europe there.
Once you have established relationships (easy to do) and have top roped some climbs you should have no trouble borrowing cams from other climbers. You will want to go to the more crowded cliffs like Super Crack buttress because they will have the most climbers to team up with and the best selection of moderates.
Other cliffs to consider are Donnelly Canyon (a few minutes from Super Crack), the Optimator and Way Rambo. I think that Blue Sun at the Way Rambo cliff is the single best hand crack for someone’s first lead.
Also, remember to tape. The rock might not seem very abrasive but nearly every move you make is a jam and if you don’t tape from the very beginning you will likely regret it.
If you camp at Creek Pasture you will be able to meet many climbers and have access to good bathrooms.
Have fun and feel free to ask me for any additional information about IC or any other areas you plan to go to....I will likely have been there. If you have a phone feel free to call me at 970 318 1334.
Lastly, put the Black Canyon on your list. It’s not far from IC and has mellow camping on the North Rim and some of the best multi pitch trad in America!
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2018 - 01:32pm PT
|
No problems ! I hope your issue will be solved soon !
Anyway we are just arrived in Moab and it was snowing at Monticello. So I think that IC will not be climbable before the weekend ...
Thanks for those information ! For sure we'll be lowly with the grade ! I think that 5,7 to 5,10 will be enough for the first times !
We've spent few days in squamish last spring and 5,8 or 5,9 was the max we've done !
Thks for the black Canyon invitation ! But I think that we must train our jamming skills on single pitch before to go multipitching . Except if there are super easy routes there ?
We already have tape and was wondering if "cracks gloves" was a good thing to have ... Or if it was cheating ? 😉
You looks to move a lot and spend lot of time climbing. I'm sure we'll be able to meet to another place later !
We plan to stay for sevrals weeks in Utah. Around Moab in a first time, and then moving to other places like Zion, Brice Canyon etc... Then we'll go to the Colorado, the Rockies close to Denver, devils tower ...
We stay in contact ! My phone is +33783135591. It's a french number and seems to have sometime some troubles ... I'll try to send you a text. Otherwise we can contact here !
Have good climbing time !
|
|
Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
|
|
Others hear will know way better than I, but back in the day, tape was considered way better than gloves...
|
|
spectreman
Trad climber
|
|
For crack climbing skills you should stop in at Vedauwoo and Fremont Canyon https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105828723/wine-and-roses on your way up to Devils Tower. Great free camping at both spots.
I live in Lyons just North of Boulder and on the way to RMNP, you're welcome to stop by here for showers or a bed for the night. I've done extensive climbing in the RMNP including lots of Diamond routes, I can give you some specific beta if you need it.
I hope you have an amazing trip!!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Corentin...tape gloves are fine for gold camalot cracks and larger. They add too mucg girth to your hand for smaller cracks although Outdoor Research now makes a very thin one. I find taping allows for a more precise fit.
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
Bad news, its raining in SW Utah and its heading your way.
Good news, by Saturday you will bake in the sun.
edit: and everybody knows it, and while the Utah cops stop anything with a Colorado plate to check for weed, there just aren't enough of them to stop the hordes from Boulder.
A tooth issue? Never saw that one in The Art Of Climbing Down Gracefully.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
Should follow Donini to Devils Tower. Great place to spend some days with spectacular crack climbing. If I remember right Jim told me some funny stories about trolling the rangers in 70's when climbing there and I thought he said he had not been back since.
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2018 - 08:52pm PT
|
Hi there,
First jam climb today at wall street in Moab ! That so cool !
Taping seems to be nice !
We will go to devils tower, but later. For now we've driven enough and are too excited to leave moab's area !
Thks for the weather web site !
Spectreman, that's another super nice offer ! The shower will maybe be welcome, but overall meeting guys while drinking beers will be a pleasure ! I don't know when we'll be around there. I'll send you a message when I'll know !
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2018 - 01:18pm PT
|
Hi there !
Moab's trip is almost over. That was a crazy month. We fall in love with the creek ! But there is still so much to do that we must hit the road to Colorado.
Based on recommendations we want to go to : rifle, Black canyon, Eldorado canyon, the Rockies ... Do you have advices on those spots ? Especially on the three last ? Any nice and easy routes to recommend (mostly 5.9 max with potentially some 5.10± pitches) ?
In the Rockies I would love to climb the diamond. We'll be there around June 20th (more or less), will it be too early? Do you have other nice Alpine course to recommend there that will be climbable at that time ?
About Devil’s Tour and the Teton, same questions. Do you have routes to recommend? Is early July a good season ?
We’re also wondering if there is some climbs in the Glacier Park ?
If anyone there live or plan to be in those areas at those times and want to join us for a climbing day or even just for a beer, send me a message !!
Thks for your help guys !!
Corentin.
P:S : Donini, I sent you a text one or 2 weeks ago. Did you received it ? My phone have some trouble ...
Lucie enjoying the creek :
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
If you like alpine climbing, are able stomach the hordes of IC, and don't hate walking a little bit to reach your climbing, RMNP should be on your list. Lumpy ridge has great cragging, there are plenty of nice snow climbs up higher to cool off on, and the rock is so much easier to trust than in the (blessedly spectacular) Moab area.
my wife and I, we are in RMNP most week days, have a fine spot up there, and are Fort Collins based. Vedauwoo is pretty much the home crag for us, and so we must suggest that you consider jamming some wicked, wide Sherman granite there. we have guidebooks and plenty of beta to share if you are in the area and wanting for advice or comradery.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
|
|
Corentin-
The Black Canyon is gonna be hot but RIGHT NOW ain't too bad, with these clouds.
For not-too-hard and long enough to be worth the bother I like the Tourist Route (5.9, ~14 pitches) , anything on the Comic Relief buttress, the Journey Home. The shady side will obviously be cooler but I've only done a couple things, of which Crystal Vision .10+ (the 5.11- pitch is bolted face, froggie-friendly) might be good for you.
The Diamond might be good in late June- if the snowmelt is finished and the monsoon hasn't begun, this can be a good time. Get local beta, maybe on mountainproject or from the horse's mouth on here.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
I didn't get your text. I’m back in Ouray...if you want to climb in the Black, I know good routes in the shade. I was there a few days ago. I can show you the area.
The Diamond should be good in late June as well as the Tetons in early July. I guided for seven years in the Tetons and know it well.
Forget Devil’s Tower...there is a voluntary closure for the entire month of June.
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2018 - 09:44am PT
|
The bravecowboy : That would be nice ! We don't know when we'll be around there yet, but I’ll send you a message as soon as I know ! And yes, it’s probably a better idea to go to Vedauwoo and skip Rifle.
Rhodo-router, thx for the infos on black canyon, I'll check that on mountain project.
Donini, it would be super nice if you have time to show us the place ! I think we'll live Moab tonight, stop in Grand junction, and arrive in the canyon between tuesday and wednesday night and stay for a week or so… Will you be free one of those next days ?
Maybe I can try to call you this evening ?
I guess we'll have to figure out a plan. We can't miss Devil's Tower!!!!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Call me tonight...going hiking now. I’m around for the next couple of weeks and need no excuse to go to the BC. Make sure you go to the North Rim....the head climber ranger is a good friend...ask for Felipe.
I also suggest you consider visiting me in Ouray for a couple of days. We are in a beautiful location at 2,350 meters with excellent sport climbing, hiking, mountain scenery and hot springs. From here it is less then two hours from the BC. It might be s nice change of pace and I could help you plan the rest oy your trip including Devil’s Tower.
I will certainly help you become familiar with the BC!
Edit...if you want to stop in Ouray before the BC come in the back way from Moab. You go south 22 miles and skirt the back side of the La Sal Mountains and go thru Norwood, Co. It is a 2.5 to 3 hr. drive and quit beautiful. From Ouray to the BC North Rim is a two hour drive.
I can give you precise directions when you call.
If you use google maps my address is 54 Cascade Drive, Ouray, Co. 81427.
Hope to hear from you this evening.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
I missed your call this evening....call me in the morning.
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2018 - 08:51pm PT
|
Yes, sorry for the voice message, it was probably incomprehensible ...
Sure, I try tomorrow morning !
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Corentin...your call came in at exactly the time another one did. Please try again.
|
|
Corentin
climber
Savoie, France
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2018 - 01:46pm PT
|
After nice climbs in the Black with Jim, we are on the road to RMNP !! We 'll be there in one or 2 days and will spend 1/2 weeks there.
Spectreman, will you be in Lyons Monday night or Tuesday and have free time to meet ? Maybe email are easier to communicate. Here is mine : corentinbruet@hotmail.fr.
Thebravecowboy : you said that you are one the RMNP during the week or the week end ? Same thing, we can communicate by email to try to meet either in the Rockies or on our way to the Tetons
Cheers guys,
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2018 - 03:25pm PT
|
I just got back from spending two days in the Black Canyon with Froggies in the west (Coco and Lucie. They are a thoroughly delightful young couple...the sort of people who keep an old salt like me from becoming a curmudgeon....almost, anyway. If you meet them on their western campaign show them your neighborhood...you will have fun!
I think they will long remember the Black...isn’t that what climbing is all about?
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2018 - 04:42pm PT
|
How about a TR?
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2018 - 07:08pm PT
|
It sounds like they are getting good value
|
|
| Messages 1 - 61 of total 61 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!