Belay/rappel device for very skinny ropes?


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Messages 21 - 26 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Dec 5, 2017 - 10:40am PT
Put an extra wrap around the karabiner.

Big Wall climber
Dec 5, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
Use two devices in series, one extended with a short sling.

Also, you will die.

Trad climber
Missoula, MT & "Pourland", OR
Dec 7, 2017 - 08:28am PT

85 gms says down to 7.7mm

Dec 7, 2017 - 09:26am PT
Kingtut- I don’t think rapping on 5mm makes sense in most people’s “world”. But Colin isn’t exactly climbing things that make much sense to others.

You should read this if you want an idea of when rapping 5mm would be appropriate

Jingus Newroutaineer
Dec 7, 2017 - 03:42pm PT
Gotcha Mike, but being a notorious fatty (215# when in shape) I always worry about rapping on skinny lines and them getting cut. Throw in (the case of the OP) the possibility of rapping on iced up lines and I guess my nut sack just shrivels at the thought.

Pretty sure people have been rapping on "spectra cord" or the like for a long time, but I thought handling issues and limited utility (ie cannot double as a lead line) had precluded their use? I guess if you are soloing some route and only need it to rap its a thing?

What the hell do I know about Alpine anyways of course (shudders at the thought).

Concerned citizen

Big Wall climber
Dec 7, 2017 - 05:11pm PT
I think that a munter hitch would work, and I have very serious doubts about almost everything else. Some years ago I wanted to descend a fixed line (perhaps 6 mm) to the Hollow Flake, and the munter worked like a charm.

Another time I attempted a rappel on a 9 mm line and used what I thought would be an ample or excessive number of carabiner brakes. (I had used carabiner brake systems for many years, and most typically there was so much friction that I had to force the rope through.) I don't know if there was some adverse combination of carabiner sizes and shapes, and/or a surprise regarding the rope finish, and/or my misperception of the rock angle, but I could barely control my rappel.
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