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Concerned citizen
Big Wall climber
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I think that a munter hitch would work, and I have very serious doubts about almost everything else. Some years ago I wanted to descend a fixed line (perhaps 6 mm) to the Hollow Flake, and the munter worked like a charm.
Another time I attempted a rappel on a 9 mm line and used what I thought would be an ample or excessive number of carabiner brakes. (I had used carabiner brake systems for many years, and most typically there was so much friction that I had to force the rope through.) I don't know if there was some adverse combination of carabiner sizes and shapes, and/or a surprise regarding the rope finish, and/or my misperception of the rock angle, but I could barely control my rappel.
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Johnny Utah 69
Sport climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 27, 2019 - 07:46pm PT
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I know I'm a bit late to the party but Black Diamond just released an ATC Alpine which is just a skinny version of the regular ATC for skinny ropes.
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couchmaster
climber
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Feb 27, 2019 - 09:04pm PT
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I already said what would work. A single link of a piece of chain. Get the heat treated one. Simply use it like an ATC.
Ref: I think Mikey's double-Bugette in series idea sounds good. I'll try that, unless someone does find a mini, super-high-friction tube/plate.
I have a buggette, never thought to rig them in series. Good idea.
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Feb 28, 2019 - 10:07am PT
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I haven’t used it on such a small diameter rope, but you might try a super-Munter. Basically a Munter hitch with an additional pass through the biner. Google it.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Feb 28, 2019 - 10:25am PT
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Just so we are all on the same wavelength the Super Munter has an extra wrap around the biner, the Monster Munter is basically one Munter over another, there are websites out there that don´t know the diffrence!
I´ve tested both and the Supe Munter gives around double the power of a single, the Monster Munter about five times the power. You can also double-up on the biners in a standard Munter for ca 35% more power, all the other combinations I haven´t bothered to measure!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 28, 2019 - 05:19pm PT
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Thanks for the information on the Super vs the Monster Munter hitch Jim. That is new to me.
A device worth considering for it's ability to add progressively higher levels of friction would be the Sterling ATS. Check out the video on their website. I have one, and the only thing I find it doesn't do well is operate as a lead belay device. It's too grabby for my liking.
https://sterlingrope.com/store/work/hardware/descent-control-rigging/ats
Works great for lowering, descending, and top-down auto-block style belay like a reverso.
K
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