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StefanS
Trad climber
Leavenworth WA
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Nov 28, 2017 - 03:31pm PT
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Hi Patrick
I hope you can make it over here next. Family reunions are important.
What Steve said earlier about making a 3 or 4 day trip is important to acclimatize. The first time I climbed Rainier was a fast two days and I got clobbered near the top.
If you can recruit some of your relatives to go with, the Kautz would be a great route for that. It has good camp sites along it.
If you can go with Steve on the Mowich side, I will be jealous.
Rainier requires a permit and solo permits are scrutinized carefully,
Also will loan you some gear.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2017 - 04:05pm PT
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Thank you Stefan and Steve Grossman, you are both a swish of fresh air.
I may take you guys up on that.
Thank you for your decency. I can still climb. If this thread has shown anything, there is, are, good people out there.
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Yury
Mountain climber
T.O.
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Nov 28, 2017 - 05:43pm PT
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way runout:
2. Don’t post three or four times in a row, it’s ridiculous. It’s called chain posting ... Is "chain posting" the same as "stream of consciousness"?
I do not see anything wrong with Patrick's stream of consciousness.
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Yury
Mountain climber
T.O.
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Nov 28, 2017 - 05:44pm PT
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Patrick Sawyer:
I know my strengths, I know my weaknesses Patrick, I believe that you meant "I knew my strengths, I knew my weaknesses".
You can't know your current strengths and weaknesses (in a context of Rainier discussion) if you haven't climbed ice in quite a few years.
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Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
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Nov 28, 2017 - 05:47pm PT
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Hey Patrick, this 'ill get your heart thumping. The slog up to camp Muir. Not to be confused with Reilly's pictures ........
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 28, 2017 - 07:39pm PT
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Remember this one undeniable fact....Rainier is a volcano. It is also undeniable that as far as mountain types go, volcanos do not serve up very good climbing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2017 - 08:12pm PT
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Very few routes on Rainier are anything like steep by anything like beyond mid-last century standards which is why the Mowich Face interests me more than most other routes. Jimmy Katz skied the Liberty Ridge long ago.
As long as everything stays put, as it should by July, and you don't get clipped by rockfall then it should all be gud.
It's funny but if you haven't climbed Rainier then most folks won't consider you a serious climber in casual conversation in these parts. LOL
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2017 - 03:10am PT
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Thank you Steve and Jim. It is refreshing to hear such sound and positive voices.
I am in a bit of dire straits right now, and you guys are a big help.
So, perhaps Rainier is not a goal. I like the idea of Mt Stuart. It just is Mt Rainier sticks out like a sore thumb, begging me to visit.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 29, 2017 - 05:14am PT
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volcanoes do not serve up very good climbing WTF you talkin' 'bout?
Choss
Lottsa rockfall
Big crevasses
Up to 12,000+ feet of vertical climbing
What could be better?
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2017 - 06:33am PT
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Yeah Mouse, bring it on. Volcanoes. As if the earth never moved. It must be a "progressive" planet.
Merced Mouse, you and Donini are dialed into the same tune. Good people.
And if I get there, Rainier will probably erupt.
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Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
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Nov 29, 2017 - 07:12am PT
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Patrick, get in good shape and you could do several routes! From the News Tribune:
"Most people need at least two days to climb Mount Rainier.
On the morning of July 26, Seattle’s Uli Steidl padded his esteemed résumé with a new speed climbing record on the 14,411-foot mountain. Steidl, 44, left Paradise at 4:57 a.m. and returned at 9:21 a.m.
His roundtrip time of 4 hours, 24 minutes, 30 seconds is the fastest known time for a Mount Rainier climb by somebody not using skis."
Read more here: http://www.thenewstribune.com/outdoors/article93108877.html#storylink=cpy
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 29, 2017 - 07:31am PT
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LOVE Pacific Northwest volcanoes
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 29, 2017 - 08:33am PT
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Mt Adams N Ridge! Best moderate route on a PNW volcanoe without a conga line.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2017 - 08:40am PT
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I can be a pain in the ass. But I mean well. Though my late mother said, "the highway to Hell is paved with good intentions.'
More later, the plumber just arrives (heck, that is a trade I should be in, bucks, dosh and smelly toilets).
Later
Forget Rainier, Jim you are right. Mount Stuart. I have the gear, I have the shoes. I have the attitude. I have the ability.
It sounds likes a great climb. Anything. I am hoping to hit Fairhead next weekend. Late in the year. I have no partners, but I have a car, a rope, some gear, and me.
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Nov 29, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
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Good pics Sierra Ledge Rat.
I especially like the one of the climber approaching the Success Cleaver/ Success Couloirs/ South Tahoma Headwall.
Did you do one of those routes?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 29, 2017 - 06:44pm PT
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Yeah, we traversed Rainier 3-1/2 days
Success Cleaver > DC
Instead of doing the last class 5 rock band below Pt. Success (couldn't climb it w/o pro) we traversed left across the top of the South Tahoma headwall
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 29, 2017 - 06:49pm PT
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3 half-days? Bankers’ hours! 😝
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 29, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
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Never claimed to be fast (:
It took a whole day just to get to the base of Success Cleaver
And we bivouaced at the base of the Success couloirs to avoid the afternoon, south-side rockfall barrages
Third night was at the paradise hut
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Lituya
Mountain climber
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My sincerest apologies to Reilly. As a transient here, I missed the history behind this thread--more specifically, Patrick's history whose requests for Rainier info I thought were sincere and solid. Reilly's responses seemed flippant, but I now realize he knew more than I did and I totally missed his humor.
As for his Willis Wall climb, well, all I can say is balls. I've climbed Rainier a shitload of times--and thought about that friggin wall all my life. Now I'm probably getting too old. It would have been great to have it on my resume as something to reflect back on by a nice warm fireplace. I salute the very few like Reilly who can.
Willis Wall, Central Rib
First Winter Ascent by Dusan Jagersky and J.Reilly Moss
February 27th, 1975
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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To me, Mt Stuart is just as much as a physical exertion as is climbing Rainier. The hike in, the climb, and the very long descent and then the hike out are much more then it appears in the guidebook. Its a big chunk of granite. Why don't you shoot for something like Guye Peak or Chair peak or the Tooth if you are in Seattle Patrick. Way more feasible unless you are in great shape.
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