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Hoser
climber
Vancouver,Rome
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May 10, 2017 - 03:36am PT
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Keep us updated, I live just down the "road" so could make it up for a weekend trip...if you find yourself partnerless once September arrives...
A dopo
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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May 18, 2017 - 04:07pm PT
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I understand the Italian pronunciation to be: "doh-loh-MEE-tee".
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Tom Turrentine
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Dear BD and other posters. I just got tickets and will be mostly trekking with wife in Dolomites Sept 14-26, (first visit) but hoping for a couple of climbs, so thinking I will need a guide. (what might it cost? Never worked with a guide before. Does the guide always lead or do they let you lead?
I'm in OK shape and can probably follow and lead easy 10s right now. (but it looks like route finding is complicated ..
I have got all the right books, have locked down a few days in the tre cime group.
What are your favorites routes there? I saw Bruce H. mention the delgado ..
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Make sure you have your lodging reservations set if you are staying at the mountain huts as the time period you are going is late in the season so many of the mountain lodges may be closed by that time.
The guide will do all of the leading, so you can follow. The guide can select routes based upon your ability and desires. If you are going to be in the Cortina d'Ampezzo area, I highly recommend Gruppo Guide Alpine Scuola di Alpinismo in Cortina d'Ampezzo. Their website is www.guidecortina.com and e-mail is info@guidecortina.com.
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Tom Turrentine
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Thanks Climber dude
I have two refugios now booked -Locatelli and Lagazuoi, and rooms in Cortina.
I'll hate it if they won't let me lead but I get the risk..
Did you climb out of Cortina?
tt
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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jealous.
mostly i'd like to go to pizza stadion in selva for a plate of schluetzer and a pizza speck with some grauvernatsch.
the climbing would be nice, too
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Tom,
if you climb out of Cortina the easiest things to get to are the Cinque(now Quatro) Torre, the Tofane and the stuff up on the Falzareggo. It's also easy to get over to the Tre Cime area. Of course, we had a car.
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Hoser
climber
Vancouver,Rome
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Depends on the guide, I wouldnt call September late season. It is one of my favourite times to go. Tre Cime to me is what the Dolomites is NOT about, but you have to go there once for sure. If you can tram or drive to the rifugio...meh...
You will have a blast no matter where you end up, enjoy. It has been hot in Rome lately, and the mountains have been a nice respite from the heat and the tourists.
only two more months to go, and yea 5.10 doesnt really translate well over here...you will just have to see for yourself...
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Tom,
Guides won't let you lead but you'll have the best possible chance of getting up and down quickly and safely.
Prices are generally pretty standard for a given route, this gives an idea: http://www.dolomismo.com/en/rock_climbing_news/rock_climbing_in_dolomites.php
You could try advertising for a partner on mountain project or UKClimbing. Obviously the outcome is much less certain.
If you trained hard between now and September you might manage the Comici-Dimai on the Cima Grande (great line, positions, history and climbing; Red Rocks 5.10+ for a couple of pitches, 5.10 for two more and many of 5.9). € 300.
Easier objectives in the same area would be the Spigolo Gallo (great line, good positions, polished in places, average climbing, ~5.9) or Dibona arete (great ambience, some loose rock, ~5.8). € 250
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Tom,
What Bruce said. Yes, I did climb in the Cortina area, mostly in the Cinque Torre area, but also the Hexenstein in nearby Valparola Pass. You could spend several days just doing to climbs in the Cinque Torre area and the Cinque Torre hut is a great place to have a beer or cake and coffee at the end of the day climbing.
Mark
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2017 - 08:59pm PT
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Tom-
Contact Super Topo member drunkfox, as he's one of the Sciaotoli Guides, and is a great companion. Speaks very good English, is capable of guiding anything your heart might desire.
In the Cortina area, one climb that should be done is the Spigolo Jori on the Punta Fiames. It's steep and beautiful, and only a 5.8+. It's a full day adventure when approach and descent are figured in.
If you want a memorable experience, go to San Martino di Castrozza, then do the Scarf Arete on Cima della Madonna. It's 10-12 pitches and is in a fantastic position. Also rated at 5.8+, but remember these climbs tend to be somewhat runnout by American standards.
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Golf Wall, CO
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This is great info. I'm planning to be there for just two days at the beginning of October. I'm splitting away from my wife & friends when they go to Venice. Can't pass up the opportunity to climb in such an awesome place.
I'd really rather have a solid local partner. But I'll probably hire a guide so I have a guaranteed reliable partner and I don't have to pack all the gear.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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The via normale on the Hexenstien is a fun route. Mostly moderate climbing with a fun 5.7 direct finish. Lots of WWI emplacements in and around the area. I found an intact rifle cartridge from 1918. The Valporola and Falzarego Passes are separated by about 1km. Lots of good climbing there on the Falzarego, Laguzoi and Hexenstein formations.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2017 - 04:50pm PT
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I'm planning a day on the Falzarego Towers as my warm-up. The Via Normale on th Kleiner Falzaregoturm is pretty easy and only 5.5, followed by the Via Lusatto on the Grosser Falzaregoturm. That adds up to 9 pitches of easier 5th class climbing, but the descent is arduous from the Grosser Falzaregoturm. Then a rest and recover day, followed by Via del Buco on the Kleiner Lagazuoi; maybe a second route if my ancient body cooperates.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Go for broke! So many great climbs in the Dolomiti, and so much cheaper than Suisse!
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Roger,
as you well know those are all good climbs. I remember picking up bits of shrapnel on the Via del Buco. These were remnants of the fierce fighting there during WWI. The Italians were encmaped at the Cinque Torre and the Austrians on the Lagazuoi. They lobbed lots of artillery at each other, hence the shrapnel.
Finally, the Italians came over to the Lagazuoi and bored tunnels under the Austrian emplacements, filled them with dynamite and tried to blow them up that way. War sucks!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2017 - 09:58am PT
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Bruce-
Yeah, I've visited the Museum on Valparola Pass. The great mountain film, Die Berge in Flammen directed by and starring Luis Trenker covered the tunnel boring and failed explosion. I have it on DVD, and some of the climbing, skiing, etc. was all done in the Cinque Torri and Lagazuoi.
My second trip to the Dolomites (1964), I found a spent bullet up on the Alvera-Menardi route on the Cima Col de Bos. Over 50,000 casualties between both warring sides between 1914 and 1918, up in the then defiled mountains.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2017 - 12:50pm PT
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Tom-
Another possibility for a good climb is either the Comici aręte or Via delle Guide on the Kleiner Falzaregoturm. I did the Via della Guide in 2013, and it's a nice climb. I opted for that one instead of the Comici, based on a rumor of some less than nice rock at the start of that route. The Falzarego Towers are really a nice step up in size from the Cinque Torri.
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