Dolomites, 2017!

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Messages 1 - 60 of total 60 in this topic
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 8, 2017 - 04:45pm PT
After making trips to the Dolomites in both 2013 and 2014, I missed out both 2015 and 2016. I'm not getting any younger, so 3 weeks ago while browsing the travel websites, I saw an incredible ticket price pop up on Cheap Fare Guru that was just too good to pass up. So...I shelled out the loot for a roundtrip airline ticket to Munich, departing 23 August and returning 22 September. Have my reservations for 8 days in Cortina d'Ampezzo, and 12 days in Wolkenstein. The rest of the time I'll be hitting up the cultural marvels of both Saxony-Anhalt and Allgaeuer Alpen.
I'll be meeting another couple S-T members there, both RKM and drunkfox. In all, I have firm plans for 8 days, with plenty of time to work others in and making weather allowances.

The airline deal was great--both nonstop flights between Denver and Munich, on my favorite airline--Lufthansa. The departure and arrival times are excellent in both directions.

Wish me success!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 8, 2017 - 06:20pm PT
Sounds like fun no matter which way you cook it up!
Cheers$$$
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Apr 8, 2017 - 07:40pm PT
^^
What she said. Have fun; loved Cortina.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 8, 2017 - 08:55pm PT
What's not to like? Spigolo Giallo, mio amico!
I'm going to Cloggy in 6 weeks!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 8, 2017 - 09:01pm PT
Have a great time BD!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Apr 8, 2017 - 11:43pm PT
yeah dude! I am jelly. Raspburry, in fact.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 9, 2017 - 04:57am PT
May the weather be in your favor and your brokedown bones up to the rigors, Rodger.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Apr 9, 2017 - 07:00am PT
Awesome! I guess this means you're missing FL again???

Susan
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2017 - 07:11am PT
Susan-

Unfortunately I'll be having too much fun in Europe to make it to Facelift--although I might be able to fly out for a few days. I see you're going to be at the CoR in June, however. Will Michael be accompanying you there?
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2017 - 07:43am PT
Just a few more tidbits about this trip: I have a Hotel reservation near Nymphenburg Palace for 2 nights, which is ideally located to see Schloss Nymphenburg dueing my first day in Munich, followed by the Hofbrauhaus for dinner and beer; day 2 includes my art-junkie urge to visit the Alte Pinakothek with it's outstanding collection of Old Masters, followed by the Hofbrauhaus. Day 3 is to the Allgaeuer Alpen to visit Schloss Neuschwanstein, and Hohenschwangau. Day 4 a visit to the Wieskirche, the World Heritage Baroque/Rococo architectural masterpiece. Day 5 drive to Cortina. Day 6-climbing with drunkfox; Kleiner Falzaregoturm via Normale and Grosser Falzaregoturm via Lussato. Day 7--get some rest and recuperation in Cortina. Meet RKM. Day 8, Kleine Lagazuoi, via del Buco. Day 9, climb at Cinque Torri with RKM. Day 10, climb 2 routes on Monte Popena Basso with drunkfox; Mazzorana Dihedral and Mazzorana/Adler routes. Day 10: Climbing in Sella Pass area with RKM. Funffingerspitze, der Daumenkante. Day 11, with drunkfox; climbs TBD. Day 12 relocate to Wolkenstein. Day 13 with Mauro Bernardi; Oestliche Mur di Pisciadu, SW Buttress. Day 14, rest day. Day 15 (tentative plan) Piz Pordoi with RKM on Mariakante, possibly with Mauro Bernardi. Day 16 , climbing with RKM, routes TBD. Day 17, rest day. Maybe some hiking and photography. Day 18; Boeeseekofel, via Dorigatti/Giambsi with Mauro. Day 19 R & R. Day 20; Via Gulck on Torre Firenze. Day 21 R & R. Day 22 Piz Ciavazes, either Kleiner Michellizi or Ramp Route. Day 23-relocate to Saxony-Anhalt for some Genealogicla studies regarding Grandfather's family. Possible visits to Saxische Schweiz near Dresden. Things after this become somewhat obscure, but plan on visiting Lutherstadt Wittenberg for the 500th Anniversary of the start of the Refermation. Then--back to Munich, Hofbrauhaus, and thence to Denver on the 22nd of September.

Note: As with all plans of this nature, I'm at the mercy of the weather. In 2014, I had similar optimistic plans, but rain and cold conditions really screwed things up.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 9, 2017 - 09:12am PT
I had a case of Grosser Falzaregoturm once, but it responded to a course of abseiling.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2017 - 03:17pm PT
More good news--I heard back from Mauro Bernardi, and we're set for a couple climbs later in the trip. RKM is heading back earlier, so I'm again shelling out some coin to climb with the area's expert. There are a bunch of climbs I have on my bucket list; 2 route on Boeseekofel--either one would be a trophy climb, but the Dorigatti-Giambisi is a beautiful looking climb at the 5.8 level. I've never climbed anything on Piz Ciavazes, either.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Apr 26, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
Stoked for you! Love that part of the world
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Apr 26, 2017 - 05:48pm PT
You probably already know this but there is lots of loose rock in the Kleiner Falzaregoturm, heck there is lots of loose rock in most of the Dolomites. I loved the Vajolet Towers. The Torre Delago was excellent!

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/south-west-arete-delagokante/107937972
Winter

climber
Apr 27, 2017 - 06:57am PT
When you climb Piz Pordoi, be sure to leap over the railing with all of your climbing gear like James Bond and then sit down to enjoy a plate of lasagna and bottle of red wine before the tram ride down to the base.

ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Apr 27, 2017 - 08:38am PT
You go Brokedown!

Day 9, climb at Cinque Torri with RKM.

Inquire as to Umberto and Ines's health if you would. I think the kids are now running the place. Say hi from the Texas Yahoos and the Bear. We used to take Umberto a bottle of tequila when we visited.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 27, 2017 - 11:14am PT
Tip a few Dago reds and whites, Roger. Next time I do , I will think of you traipsing in the Alps. Cheers.

If you come across a white wine called Kerner, give it a try. You will be pleasantly surprised.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
Wayno-

I'll be at the CoR in June, bringing a 6 bottle case of Bolla Bardolino! I will be drinking that to get in shape for more serious vinous undertakings in Italy.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 9, 2017 - 09:36pm PT
hey there say... love the dolomites... :)

thanks for sharing... :)

have a fun safe trip!

:)
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 9, 2017 - 10:17pm PT
I am very stoked for you, the Dolomites appeal to my soul . . . such awesome rock climbing history resides there.

Have a wonderful trip!

Hoser

climber
Vancouver,Rome
May 10, 2017 - 03:36am PT
Keep us updated, I live just down the "road" so could make it up for a weekend trip...if you find yourself partnerless once September arrives...

A dopo
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 18, 2017 - 03:40pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
May 18, 2017 - 04:07pm PT
I understand the Italian pronunciation to be: "doh-loh-MEE-tee".

Tom Turrentine

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jul 4, 2017 - 09:38am PT
Dear BD and other posters. I just got tickets and will be mostly trekking with wife in Dolomites Sept 14-26, (first visit) but hoping for a couple of climbs, so thinking I will need a guide. (what might it cost? Never worked with a guide before. Does the guide always lead or do they let you lead?

I'm in OK shape and can probably follow and lead easy 10s right now. (but it looks like route finding is complicated ..

I have got all the right books, have locked down a few days in the tre cime group.

What are your favorites routes there? I saw Bruce H. mention the delgado ..

Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Jul 4, 2017 - 10:08am PT
Make sure you have your lodging reservations set if you are staying at the mountain huts as the time period you are going is late in the season so many of the mountain lodges may be closed by that time.

The guide will do all of the leading, so you can follow. The guide can select routes based upon your ability and desires. If you are going to be in the Cortina d'Ampezzo area, I highly recommend Gruppo Guide Alpine Scuola di Alpinismo in Cortina d'Ampezzo. Their website is www.guidecortina.com and e-mail is info@guidecortina.com.
Tom Turrentine

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jul 5, 2017 - 10:58am PT
Thanks Climber dude

I have two refugios now booked -Locatelli and Lagazuoi, and rooms in Cortina.

I'll hate it if they won't let me lead but I get the risk..

Did you climb out of Cortina?

tt
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jul 5, 2017 - 01:42pm PT
jealous.

mostly i'd like to go to pizza stadion in selva for a plate of schluetzer and a pizza speck with some grauvernatsch.

the climbing would be nice, too
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jul 5, 2017 - 02:47pm PT
Tom,

if you climb out of Cortina the easiest things to get to are the Cinque(now Quatro) Torre, the Tofane and the stuff up on the Falzareggo. It's also easy to get over to the Tre Cime area. Of course, we had a car.
Hoser

climber
Vancouver,Rome
Jul 5, 2017 - 03:18pm PT
Depends on the guide, I wouldnt call September late season. It is one of my favourite times to go. Tre Cime to me is what the Dolomites is NOT about, but you have to go there once for sure. If you can tram or drive to the rifugio...meh...

You will have a blast no matter where you end up, enjoy. It has been hot in Rome lately, and the mountains have been a nice respite from the heat and the tourists.

only two more months to go, and yea 5.10 doesnt really translate well over here...you will just have to see for yourself...
duncan

climber
London, UK
Jul 6, 2017 - 02:16pm PT
Tom,

Guides won't let you lead but you'll have the best possible chance of getting up and down quickly and safely.

Prices are generally pretty standard for a given route, this gives an idea: http://www.dolomismo.com/en/rock_climbing_news/rock_climbing_in_dolomites.php

You could try advertising for a partner on mountain project or UKClimbing. Obviously the outcome is much less certain.

If you trained hard between now and September you might manage the Comici-Dimai on the Cima Grande (great line, positions, history and climbing; Red Rocks 5.10+ for a couple of pitches, 5.10 for two more and many of 5.9). € 300.

Easier objectives in the same area would be the Spigolo Gallo (great line, good positions, polished in places, average climbing, ~5.9) or Dibona arete (great ambience, some loose rock, ~5.8). € 250
Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Jul 6, 2017 - 08:56pm PT
Tom,

What Bruce said. Yes, I did climb in the Cortina area, mostly in the Cinque Torre area, but also the Hexenstein in nearby Valparola Pass. You could spend several days just doing to climbs in the Cinque Torre area and the Cinque Torre hut is a great place to have a beer or cake and coffee at the end of the day climbing.

Mark
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2017 - 08:59pm PT
Tom-

Contact Super Topo member drunkfox, as he's one of the Sciaotoli Guides, and is a great companion. Speaks very good English, is capable of guiding anything your heart might desire.

In the Cortina area, one climb that should be done is the Spigolo Jori on the Punta Fiames. It's steep and beautiful, and only a 5.8+. It's a full day adventure when approach and descent are figured in.

If you want a memorable experience, go to San Martino di Castrozza, then do the Scarf Arete on Cima della Madonna. It's 10-12 pitches and is in a fantastic position. Also rated at 5.8+, but remember these climbs tend to be somewhat runnout by American standards.
climbrunride

Sport climber
Golf Wall, CO
Jul 6, 2017 - 10:17pm PT
This is great info. I'm planning to be there for just two days at the beginning of October. I'm splitting away from my wife & friends when they go to Venice. Can't pass up the opportunity to climb in such an awesome place.

I'd really rather have a solid local partner. But I'll probably hire a guide so I have a guaranteed reliable partner and I don't have to pack all the gear.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jul 6, 2017 - 10:38pm PT
The via normale on the Hexenstien is a fun route. Mostly moderate climbing with a fun 5.7 direct finish. Lots of WWI emplacements in and around the area. I found an intact rifle cartridge from 1918. The Valporola and Falzarego Passes are separated by about 1km. Lots of good climbing there on the Falzarego, Laguzoi and Hexenstein formations.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2017 - 04:50pm PT
I'm planning a day on the Falzarego Towers as my warm-up. The Via Normale on th Kleiner Falzaregoturm is pretty easy and only 5.5, followed by the Via Lusatto on the Grosser Falzaregoturm. That adds up to 9 pitches of easier 5th class climbing, but the descent is arduous from the Grosser Falzaregoturm. Then a rest and recover day, followed by Via del Buco on the Kleiner Lagazuoi; maybe a second route if my ancient body cooperates.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 7, 2017 - 05:28pm PT
Go for broke! So many great climbs in the Dolomiti, and so much cheaper than Suisse!
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jul 7, 2017 - 09:03pm PT
Roger,

as you well know those are all good climbs. I remember picking up bits of shrapnel on the Via del Buco. These were remnants of the fierce fighting there during WWI. The Italians were encmaped at the Cinque Torre and the Austrians on the Lagazuoi. They lobbed lots of artillery at each other, hence the shrapnel.

Finally, the Italians came over to the Lagazuoi and bored tunnels under the Austrian emplacements, filled them with dynamite and tried to blow them up that way. War sucks!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2017 - 09:58am PT
Bruce-

Yeah, I've visited the Museum on Valparola Pass. The great mountain film, Die Berge in Flammen directed by and starring Luis Trenker covered the tunnel boring and failed explosion. I have it on DVD, and some of the climbing, skiing, etc. was all done in the Cinque Torri and Lagazuoi.

My second trip to the Dolomites (1964), I found a spent bullet up on the Alvera-Menardi route on the Cima Col de Bos. Over 50,000 casualties between both warring sides between 1914 and 1918, up in the then defiled mountains.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 8, 2017 - 11:08am PT

Good times!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2017 - 12:50pm PT
Tom-

Another possibility for a good climb is either the Comici arête or Via delle Guide on the Kleiner Falzaregoturm. I did the Via della Guide in 2013, and it's a nice climb. I opted for that one instead of the Comici, based on a rumor of some less than nice rock at the start of that route. The Falzarego Towers are really a nice step up in size from the Cinque Torri.
Tom Turrentine

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jul 9, 2017 - 12:16am PT
Thanks everyone for the information- feeling super excited about this trip. Sept sound like a good bet on weather..
kenr99

climber
Jul 10, 2017 - 05:51am PT
I'll be around Wolkenstein for part of that time. So if want to get together to share stories and ideas some evening, that would be great.
. . (Just sent you a message. If all else fails, send me your phone thru my MountainProject account "kenr")

I'm not into the date-based itinerary concept, because I've been to the Dolomites lots of times in September (and June), and my experience is that
it Rains a lot.
. . (so now Sharon + my normal strategy is to bring along guidebooks for Arco/Adige valley, Austria, Lecco/Como, Briancon France, and Marseille/Toulon -- and wonder _when_ there will arise a long enough sequence of forecast rainy days to drive us to depart).

Part 2 of our Rain-management strategy is to bring guidebooks and GPS waypoints for valley sport crags (and the rather intesting _valley_ VFs) around Meran + Brixen + Trento. Also waypoints for the new pretty-decent-quality indoor climbing gyms in the valley cities of Brixen + Bozen.

What drove Sharon + me to switch our normal Dolomites base from Cortina to Wolkenstein is that W offers so much shorter easier driving to good rainy-day options -- and saves an hour of driving for our (expected) longer-term escape to more reliably dry rock + sunshine.

Ken

P.S. the quality of the "free" climbing on some of the Via Ferrata routes in the Dolomites is so great, it's difficult for me to give much priority to all the waiting-around-time and gear-hauling work, and questionable rock on most of the Multi-Pitch routes (not to mention paying for a guide-person). By "free" on VF, I mean climbing with hands and feet directly on the rock, clipping the cable only for protection.
Tom Turrentine

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jul 10, 2017 - 10:25am PT
Thanks Ken for more perspective

I'll be in Wolfenstein 3 days at least, arriving night of Sept 15- leaving mid 18th for a few days in Sesto/ and refugio Locatelli to hike in Tre Cime., then another 4 days in Cortina area (and will have car) Will like to meet for beer etc..if you are around.

Thanks for tips to manage rain days, we will be hiking most of our time so hoping rain is light enough for hiking (average totals in late september look reasonable .)

My wife is not climbing much these days, so I might take up y0ur via ferrata (never been on one) to use as protection and get in a quick climb.

I signed up for MP will try to figure out messages

tt
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 10, 2017 - 10:40am PT

Have a good time...

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2017 - 08:04pm PT
Ken & Tom

I am only going to Cortina area for the first week of my climbing, and then will be in Wolkenstein for 10 days. I too, like Wolkenstein better than Cortina. In 2013, we bailed out from W. down to the Arco area and Placche Zebrate. Did a route named 46th Parallelo. Warm and sunny, whereas the Sella Towers were freezing. I usually stay at the Albergo Silvana; nice accommodations, 3 star hotel, decent to good food for the price. That's my usual hang, bit on my 2013 and 2014 trips.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2017 - 02:53pm PT
Wow! I'm all "Guide-booked out." Less than 3 weeks to go.

I've never done a via ferrata, so anyone here with any advice for doing so? I've seen some YouTube epics, and they look pretty crowded and are a different sort of experience from Trad climbing.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 5, 2017 - 05:03pm PT
They're almost always a cluster. Do you like being a nursemaid? :-)

I would ask one of your guides for suggestions.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2017 - 06:51pm PT
I'm not really considering doing one as a route, but several climbs I'm considering use a via ferrata for the descent, or as a partial approach segment.
kenr99

climber
Aug 8, 2017 - 04:18pm PT
Tom Turrentine wrote:
> I'll be in Wolfenstein 3 days at least, arriving night of Sept 15

Sharon and I have bought our tickets, made our reservations for Wolkenstein.

Looks like we have some overlap -- unless Sharon + I are off visiting friends by Berchtesgaden, or doing great alpine VF routes in the Dachstein group in Austria.

I'll try to send you phone + email so we can get together there.

Ken
kenr99

climber
Aug 8, 2017 - 04:34pm PT
Reilly wrote:
> Via Ferrata routes are almost always a cluster.
> Do you like being a nursemaid?

How many VF routes have you tried?
How many on off-weekend days outside the peak-crowding eight weeks from early July through beginning Sept?
How many times took the trouble to get an early start to beat the crowds?

My favorite VF routes have such fun "free" climbing with hands and feet directly on the rock, I repeat whichever ones I get suitable weather for, each time I visit the Dolomites. I've reported on them in various places on the web.

Key disadvantage of multi-pitch roped climbing routes versus VF is that you spend less than half your time actually making climbing moves.

My big anticipation for this year is to explore the long hard VF route on Monte Agner (famous as the biggest wall of the Dolomites). Of course the VF will not be anywhere near as demanding as any of the climbing routes.

Ken
kenr99

climber
Aug 8, 2017 - 04:45pm PT
Brokedownclimbing wrote:
> I am only going to Cortina area for the first week of my climbing, and then will be in Wolkenstein for 10 days.

Just sent you a message with my phone + email, so we can try to get together when you arrive.

Ken
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2017 - 05:20pm PT
Kenr99-

Nothing received through today!
kenr99

climber
Aug 12, 2017 - 08:11pm PT
Just tried again to send you my contact info.

If that doesn't work, How about try contacting me thru my account
KenR
on MountainProject.com

Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Aug 22, 2017 - 01:01pm PT
I've never done a via ferrata, so anyone here with any advice for doing so?

From Cortina I've done a few VF's in the area. A good introduction would be the "Michielli Strobel". Nice easy route but not so nice scree/talus filled gully descent. The "Marino Bianchi" is a good VF with great views but last time I did it, it was very crowded. By far the best VF in the area is the "Ski Club 18". I only had to pass one other party when I did this 2 years ago.
Barney Rubble

Trad climber
ALAMEDA
Sep 27, 2017 - 09:48pm PT
I kept searching this thread for recent photos and tales of daring climbers, battling the elements in search of deeper meaning, but to no avail. In desperation, Ingrid and I departed for the Dolomites to experience la dolce vita for ourselves, and to share with the huddled masses of Supertopo, yearning to climb free, the full and unedited details of our summer vacation.

If it feels like there’s a lot of non-climbing content in the thread, fear not, climbing content will follow, and besides, I highjacked this thread fair and square.

First sight upon arrival in Venice, helping hands against the elegant decay.

Navigating the labyrinth wasn't as tricky as advertised, and getting a little lost wasn't all bad.

There were attractions around every corner.

[youtube=http://youtu.be/jbldQduxa4Q]

The food was great, and the people even nicer. A traveler could go far on just a few words of Italian, though if you wanted to be certain of getting whipped cream on your hot chocolate a few more words might help.

We went to this nice little restaurant on a side canal based on a 20-year-old recommendation and weren't disappointed. Trattoria Rivetta was so empty when we got there that we had second thoughts, but there was a well-deserved line out the door by the time we left. The waiter figured me out immediately (that, just possibly, I might, every so slightly, shy away from physical contact). I mean, his hands were all over me, and on the first date. In the best possible way of course.

This cicchetti bar near our B&B was a great find!

Venice traffic jam.

This was as close to heavy traffic as we saw in our travels. The roads were great and the drivers very respectful, though there was a certain breed of Italian driver who drove with unmistakable urgency! Ah well, I was that driver on occasion as a younger person (younger being before yesterday).

We took a day trip to Florence to see Venus on the Half Shell (props to Meredith).

There were amazing sights everywhere we looked.

It may not be obvious in this photo, but clearly,...

...it's turtles all the way down.

Back in Venice, St Marks was pretty cool.

We went up St Marks Companile. The bells, the bells! They went off without warning!

[youtube=http://youtu.be/Lsm8X84cz4Y]

Such a beautiful city. Incredible views in every direction.

Though the view from the Bridge of Sighs was one you didn't want to see BITD.

Because if you did...

...this was the destination.

Ingrid got us great seats for La Traviata at the Teatro La Fenice opera house. It felt like we were in the opera house scene from the movie Dangerous Liaisons.

For our last night in Venice we treated ourselves to dinner at a Michelin starred restaurant just outside the door of our B&B. The glass of red wine I had there, not crazy expensive, lands on the all time top-3 list.

Like everything else in Italy, it was done with flair.

We stopped at a little cafe in Vittorio Veneto on our way to Cortina. Between the staff, other patrons (all locals), and ourselves we spoke a couple dozen words in common. With some pointing, arm waving, and smiling we were able to order a nice lunch (everyone pitched in). It was such a pleasant experience to feel so welcomed in a strange place. Too bad we didn’t get any photos!

Woke up to snow in Cortina and went hiking with friends Dawn & Bob Rugo from Berkeley.

[youtube=http://youtu.be/7cMqumPDPnM]

This area was on the front between Italy and Austria-Hungry during WWI with ruins everywhere.

[youtube=http://youtu.be/pWrVIrCUfXg]

Strange to find something as luxurious as a bathtub here given that more soldiers died from starvation, exposure, and avalanches than from bullets! Must have been officer's quarters.

We spent a couple days climbing with the guide Ingrid hired for us. What a luxury!

Gery (Gerhard) was very knowledgeable about the area, supremely competent, and totally chill. Who could ask for anything more? Sort of like climbing with Justin.

On the summit of Cinque Torri Grande. The guy on the left of the photo was trying (unintentionally, I presume) to kill his wife with some inventive techniques that I hope never to see again!

Since the route my heart was set on was hopelessly out of condition, we climbed the nearby Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Edge) on Cima Piccola following the right skyline for 13 awesome pitches.

It was drizzling when we started and didn't stop till we hit the summit. We caught up to another party on what was supposed to be the easiest stretch of climbing. Unfortunately, being lower angle, it was soaking wet, very slippery, anda, anda, the rock was all pointy! (props to T. Knight, or whoever wrote that funny cartoon BITD)

[youtube=http://youtu.be/ZGyO5u9pPys]

Above the "easy" bit Gery took a variation to pass the other party making a traverse with spectacularly overhanging terrain above and below. The day prior Gery managed to pass 3 or 4 parties on another multi-pitch route with Ingrid and I in tow! He dragged me up this beast in 4 hours. Not too bad!

Following the traverse was the easiest climbing of the route, but spectacular doesn't begin to describe it. This was fairly typical of the Dolomites, very featured rock that allowed passage through amazing terrain at reasonable grades. Hey, isn't the guide supposed to place some gear for the 2nd?

At least the cruxes were steep enough the be dryish.

It felt like we had gotten away with something doing the route in such marginal conditions. It would have been great to do something on Cima Grande, but this felt like counting coup on a sleeping dragon.

[youtube=http://youtu.be/hs4MOrvo5Zo]

While Gery and I were tempting fate across the way, Ingrid, Dawn, and Bob climbed the Innerkoffler Via Ferrata. Apparently, the route was named for a soldier who fell to his death during a skirmish on the mountain.

Traveling in the Dolomites is very civilized with refugios all over the place.

The gang elected to maintain a higher level of adventure by making their own lunch outside the refugio. I might have been tempted to duck in for a quick cappuccino, adventure be damned!

I can't personally attest to the quality of the route, but there sure was a lot of smiling going on.


Looks like they had pretty good views of the Tre Cima...

...and wild terrain with a backdrop that couldn't be beat.

Summit victory!

Cortina was a great base to explore from,...

...surrounded by incredible scenery. Our cell phone photos don't begin to do justice to the Dolomites.

The skiing might be pretty good in the Dolomites as well. There were ski lifts everywhere, including a couple on this slope. Note the people in the center foreground for scale.

Goodbye Cortina!

Next time to Italy I think we should consider a door tour. These bronze doors we 15+ feet tall.

With beautiful inner doors.

There were doors for every taste.

Including questionable taste.

Peek-a-boo doors.

Inner/outer doors were fairly common as were Dutch doors (Italian style).

Even beat up old prison doors were pretty cool. I hope I look this good when I'm 500 years old!

A clock tour could be fun.

These 24-hour clocks were fairly common.

At least in the Doge's Palace in Venice.

They even had clocks that told what the stars were up to. So much to see in Italy!

Ok Supertopo, post up the goods.

Zander

climber
Sep 29, 2017 - 08:18am PT
DOLOMITES!!!!!
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Sep 29, 2017 - 09:38am PT
Thanks a lot for the great virtual tour!
Sounds like you had a "trip of a lifetime" kind of experience!
The Yellow Edge is an amazing line.
Rick

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 29, 2017 - 09:48am PT
Brunelleschi! Spigolo Giallo! Cicchetti! Cosi Fan Tutti!
Nice slide show!
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Sep 29, 2017 - 12:09pm PT
Barney Rubble! Thanks for taking the time to post the fun stories & all those great photos. Most inspiring!

(Although the report was a little short of fine-wines/alpine hut photos.)


And I can only add, on our 2014 Brenta Dolomites trip we worked our way north through Verona & Arco. All involved liked those places much better than Venice.


Arco castle & Arco area, from up high, after an easy Via-ferata.
Barney Rubble

Trad climber
ALAMEDA
Sep 30, 2017 - 09:36am PT
Thanks guys, we had a great time. I'll try to find the same joy in doing laundry today.

Thanks Fritz for taking up the torch, and for reminding me to get label photos of memorable wines!
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