Dolomites, 2017!

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 41 - 55 of total 55 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2017 - 12:50pm PT
Tom-

Another possibility for a good climb is either the Comici arÍte or Via delle Guide on the Kleiner Falzaregoturm. I did the Via della Guide in 2013, and it's a nice climb. I opted for that one instead of the Comici, based on a rumor of some less than nice rock at the start of that route. The Falzarego Towers are really a nice step up in size from the Cinque Torri.
Tom Turrentine

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jul 9, 2017 - 12:16am PT
Thanks everyone for the information- feeling super excited about this trip. Sept sound like a good bet on weather..
kenr99

climber
Jul 10, 2017 - 05:51am PT
I'll be around Wolkenstein for part of that time. So if want to get together to share stories and ideas some evening, that would be great.
. . (Just sent you a message. If all else fails, send me your phone thru my MountainProject account "kenr")

I'm not into the date-based itinerary concept, because I've been to the Dolomites lots of times in September (and June), and my experience is that
it Rains a lot.
. . (so now Sharon + my normal strategy is to bring along guidebooks for Arco/Adige valley, Austria, Lecco/Como, Briancon France, and Marseille/Toulon -- and wonder _when_ there will arise a long enough sequence of forecast rainy days to drive us to depart).

Part 2 of our Rain-management strategy is to bring guidebooks and GPS waypoints for valley sport crags (and the rather intesting _valley_ VFs) around Meran + Brixen + Trento. Also waypoints for the new pretty-decent-quality indoor climbing gyms in the valley cities of Brixen + Bozen.

What drove Sharon + me to switch our normal Dolomites base from Cortina to Wolkenstein is that W offers so much shorter easier driving to good rainy-day options -- and saves an hour of driving for our (expected) longer-term escape to more reliably dry rock + sunshine.

Ken

P.S. the quality of the "free" climbing on some of the Via Ferrata routes in the Dolomites is so great, it's difficult for me to give much priority to all the waiting-around-time and gear-hauling work, and questionable rock on most of the Multi-Pitch routes (not to mention paying for a guide-person). By "free" on VF, I mean climbing with hands and feet directly on the rock, clipping the cable only for protection.
Tom Turrentine

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jul 10, 2017 - 10:25am PT
Thanks Ken for more perspective

I'll be in Wolfenstein 3 days at least, arriving night of Sept 15- leaving mid 18th for a few days in Sesto/ and refugio Locatelli to hike in Tre Cime., then another 4 days in Cortina area (and will have car) Will like to meet for beer etc..if you are around.

Thanks for tips to manage rain days, we will be hiking most of our time so hoping rain is light enough for hiking (average totals in late september look reasonable .)

My wife is not climbing much these days, so I might take up y0ur via ferrata (never been on one) to use as protection and get in a quick climb.

I signed up for MP will try to figure out messages

tt
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 10, 2017 - 10:40am PT

Have a good time...


Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2017 - 08:04pm PT
Ken & Tom

I am only going to Cortina area for the first week of my climbing, and then will be in Wolkenstein for 10 days. I too, like Wolkenstein better than Cortina. In 2013, we bailed out from W. down to the Arco area and Placche Zebrate. Did a route named 46th Parallelo. Warm and sunny, whereas the Sella Towers were freezing. I usually stay at the Albergo Silvana; nice accommodations, 3 star hotel, decent to good food for the price. That's my usual hang, bit on my 2013 and 2014 trips.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2017 - 02:53pm PT
Wow! I'm all "Guide-booked out." Less than 3 weeks to go.

I've never done a via ferrata, so anyone here with any advice for doing so? I've seen some YouTube epics, and they look pretty crowded and are a different sort of experience from Trad climbing.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 5, 2017 - 05:03pm PT
They're almost always a cluster. Do you like being a nursemaid? :-)

I would ask one of your guides for suggestions.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2017 - 06:51pm PT
I'm not really considering doing one as a route, but several climbs I'm considering use a via ferrata for the descent, or as a partial approach segment.
kenr99

climber
Aug 8, 2017 - 04:18pm PT
Tom Turrentine wrote:
> I'll be in Wolfenstein 3 days at least, arriving night of Sept 15

Sharon and I have bought our tickets, made our reservations for Wolkenstein.

Looks like we have some overlap -- unless Sharon + I are off visiting friends by Berchtesgaden, or doing great alpine VF routes in the Dachstein group in Austria.

I'll try to send you phone + email so we can get together there.

Ken
kenr99

climber
Aug 8, 2017 - 04:34pm PT
Reilly wrote:
> Via Ferrata routes are almost always a cluster.
> Do you like being a nursemaid?

How many VF routes have you tried?
How many on off-weekend days outside the peak-crowding eight weeks from early July through beginning Sept?
How many times took the trouble to get an early start to beat the crowds?

My favorite VF routes have such fun "free" climbing with hands and feet directly on the rock, I repeat whichever ones I get suitable weather for, each time I visit the Dolomites. I've reported on them in various places on the web.

Key disadvantage of multi-pitch roped climbing routes versus VF is that you spend less than half your time actually making climbing moves.

My big anticipation for this year is to explore the long hard VF route on Monte Agner (famous as the biggest wall of the Dolomites). Of course the VF will not be anywhere near as demanding as any of the climbing routes.

Ken
kenr99

climber
Aug 8, 2017 - 04:45pm PT
Brokedownclimbing wrote:
> I am only going to Cortina area for the first week of my climbing, and then will be in Wolkenstein for 10 days.

Just sent you a message with my phone + email, so we can try to get together when you arrive.

Ken
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2017 - 05:20pm PT
Kenr99-

Nothing received through today!
kenr99

climber
Aug 12, 2017 - 08:11pm PT
Just tried again to send you my contact info.

If that doesn't work, How about try contacting me thru my account
KenR
on MountainProject.com

Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Aug 22, 2017 - 01:01pm PT
I've never done a via ferrata, so anyone here with any advice for doing so?

From Cortina I've done a few VF's in the area. A good introduction would be the "Michielli Strobel". Nice easy route but not so nice scree/talus filled gully descent. The "Marino Bianchi" is a good VF with great views but last time I did it, it was very crowded. By far the best VF in the area is the "Ski Club 18". I only had to pass one other party when I did this 2 years ago.
Messages 41 - 55 of total 55 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews