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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mooch.... hi thanks for up date. Leventhal and crew were at Fish and Boons Farm... and Monday at Sherman Tank.
Good info on The Godfather’s... AKA Twin Towers. Jason and I hiked up and climbed the North Tower the winter after the McNally fire when it was a cleared hill. I climbed a crack on the east face... that required cleaning of some big loose flakes out for the first 30 feet. 10a-b
On top we found zero evidence of another’s passage. We made a small pile of stones and left a rap anchor with stoppers.
If people climbed it prior to US I don’t know how they got down.
We named it Twin Towers because of the sh#t that went down in NYC, as a tribute to the dead.
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tbailey
Trad climber
canoga park
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The long traversing arch to the left of "S crack" was done by Rob and Mike. Don't recall the name. To the left of that is a crack to a roof,two
bolts and a bolted anchor,"Lazer Line", 11something. A few more routes have been done on the left side, but I don't remember what they were.
Snowjob, is a great route. Got its name because when Rob and I started it the weather was sunny and clear, by the 2nd or 3rd bolt the clouds came and so did the snow.
Curious if anyone ever makes it to the Middle or Upper Rincon these days. Fantastic multipitch crack climbing at the upper, short hike, plus
camping on the summit.
Miss the Rincon, great times, TICKS SUCK!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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T... last I herd, Mike F and James P did some climbing on “the middle “ They say it’s on a heart shaped chunk about 1.5 pitches long. They call it Heart Surgery I think.
From the top of Avalanche or Ice one can wander up to the right ... takes about 25 min.
The upper.... last time I was there it looked like people have never visited the place. Short hike?? You tiger 😐
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Guyzo -
Yah, I saw the evidence of passage on the Grandfathers just inside the second tier corridor. It had a pile of stones on the east side. By the way, you can simul rap from the northern block. Didn’t see a rap anchor using nuts. Climbed the inside crack that faces to the south (5.9). Last I saw you, we chatted about the area but you had no recollection of the place other than you had seen it from Sherman Pass Rd. Too many Igor Unchained Imperial Stout’s at Kris’s slideshow? LOL!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Any more beta on middle and upper rincon? Is this the salmon creek walls up and left of rincon that are mentioned in the Domelands guide and are approached form the top? Or some of the cliffs way up and right of rincon (that would also be approached from the top?)?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Yes, the upper Saslmon Creek Wall is approached from the northern part of Big Meadows in Domeland Wilderness. Approx. 4.5 mile hike in. As far as I know, only two routes exist on it. The original .10c and an unfinished Scott Loomis project (5.11 A3, I think). Ask Kris Solem or Guyzo about those other formations up above the Rincon. I thimk I heard that Rob and Guy explored them and put in a route or two.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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so is above and right of rincon these upper cliffs you guys are talking about?
How about the climbing on book rock? any good?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Book Rock, with the obvious shady dihedral, is very good climbing. Excellent rock, mostly Herb Laeger routes. And Vaino Kodas. There's a first class 5.12 sport route on the left face of the dihedral.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 10, 2018 - 07:23pm PT
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Here's a list of the climbs that I made for the Rincon area.
Main ledge area:
Wide Crack 5.11 Mike Flood 1991
E Cracks 1&2 5.12 Erik Erikson 1995
Unfinished route 3 bolts
Chronic 10c Rob Brown, et al 1996
Winter Heat 11a Brown, et al 1996
Sour Grapes 10c Brown, Gene Mayo 1996
Nice Job 10b Brown,Solem 1997
Snowjob 5.9 (2 pitches) Flood, Brown, Troy Bailey 1991
Broken Arrow 5.11 Flood, Brown
Blow Job 5.11+ Kris Solem, Chelsea Griffie
Indian Summer 10b Brown, et al 1995
Tic This 5.11+ Erickson
2nd level:
White Line Fever 5.9
Lost Summer (dihedral) Craig Morris 1996 FFA Erikson, Solem. 11c
On Any Sunday 10a 1999 Brown, Keese.
Little Bitch 10a Flood, Jeff Lieberman.
Lost in Space 5.10 Solem, Keese.
Upper ledge area:
Endless Summer 12a 1996 Brown, Solem, et al.
Unfinished route 2 bolts
No Ordinary Moments 5.10d Morris, Mayo, Brown.
Zig Zag 5.8 Brown, Flood 1993
Zig Zag Deluxe 11c Flood, Brown 1996
Direct Start 10b Brown
Return to Sender 11c Brown, Solem, Tidwell 1996
Mike’s Flight 11a Flood, Brown, Bailey 1993
Ice 11b Brown, Mayo, Morris 1995
Avalanche 11d Brown, et al 1995
Windy Corner 10c Morris, Brown, Mayo 1995
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 11, 2018 - 08:13am PT
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#8, unnamed bolted face is Nice Job. You and I did it. One of the more recent routes I think.
Tick this was EE and me.
Lost Summer, EE and me is .11c free.
Slab 10? Lost in Space, Myself and Guy Keesee. Space shuttle Columbia passed over disintegrating while we were up there. We found out on the car radio that night.
It's nice to see the whole list. That's quite a body of work...
edit. Blow Job was with Chelsea Griffie. It was a windy day... Prolly .11+r (The start in the crux, and it's dangerous.)
IMO No Ordinary Moments is one of the best 5.10 face climbing pitches I've done anywhere.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Jun 12, 2018 - 10:04am PT
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Hey Kris, after you guys put up Blow Job, did it ever see a SA? The second day you, Erin and I went up with Brian, Chris, Brandon, Vitaly, Daniel, I saw V start up Blow Job, He was initially trying to work right of the slanting crack, on the thin face. He had worked in few small cams on some thin eyebrows but conceded to lower off then use the crack onm the left. That more direct start, which he was doing, looked much harder! 12a?
How's quality of rock on White Line Fever?
Nice list, Rob.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Jun 12, 2018 - 01:15pm PT
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skylock -
Lexicon (.10c/d), on Book Rock, is good. That's a Herb route. Crux near the top is squeeker. Bolts are right there when the going gets tough.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 12, 2018 - 01:54pm PT
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Hey Kris, after you guys put up Blow Job, did it ever see a SA?
Not that I know of, but then I don't have a Rincon cam sitting up there. Unfortunately this shot doesn't show the boulder problem/three foot roof start. But that's the first piece there. I'm standing on the hold you have to get to turn the roof. The LZ is pointy upward facing rocks.
I must have been dumb enough to do it twice, I'm quite certain Chelsea and I were up there alone for the FA, and obviously she didn't take that pic.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Jun 12, 2018 - 02:42pm PT
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That was me (brian) who was starting up blow job. Tough warmup! The right start looked easier and better protected to me form the ground.. turns out it ended up being harder and less protected than the left/correct start. The left start was still really tough and balancy to get on to that hold Kris is talking about. I can't remember if I was able to get an ok offset cam before that move or after... Anyway the cruxy roof up higher was super awesome and well protected. I only wish the anchor was a little lower on that one as it kind of junk'd out above and I think we needed two ropes to tr. But great route.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 12, 2018 - 04:32pm PT
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Mooch, White Line Fever rock quality is excellent. It's a good route and an easy way to get a TR set up for everything between Snow Job and Tick This (2 ropes).
Kris, I took that pic of you on the BJ route :) Somewhere I also have a pic of Reid Malinbaum trying to lead it and taking a whipper at the start barely missing hitting his head on the rock at the base by an inch.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 12, 2018 - 06:12pm PT
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Yeah I was watching Reid from the upper deck there. Thought he cracked his noggin fer sure. I recall some gear popping? Rincon is not a good place to get hurt. Not that anywhere is, but you get my drift.
Anyway the cruxy roof up higher was super awesome and well protected. I only wish the anchor was a little lower on that one as it kind of junk'd out above and I think we needed two ropes to tr. But great route.
So do we have a 2nd ascent, other than my lack of common sense?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Jan 30, 2019 - 10:43am PT
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Hey sky! Trying for the life of me but what part of Kenu is this? Is this Layback And Relax?
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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this is from the layback n relax anchor. messin around on the arete to the right of it (the left side of skyline?). any more activity up there?
and Yeah kris, eventually sent bj after finding the correct start. would be amnazing if someone could put that rincon list onto a photo. something super simple would do
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Feb 26, 2019 - 12:20pm PT
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Sky -
Gotcha. We blazed in a decent trail that leads to the right side. Definitely low hanging fruit. Tried to get in there a few weeks ago and got shutdown heading up Sherman Pass Rd. A foot of snow and ice underneath @ 4500'. Might try again after this week. Warmer temps. Also. Kris and I had chatted about making the hike up the opposite ridge to the south and take shots from there of Rincon. Perhaps I can get him to come up before it gets too warm up here.
Random inquiry to the masses......found a new route on the far right side of Kern Slab, 10' left of 'Well, It Looked Easy' (.11b). 11 bolts to a 2-bolt quicklink anchor. Goes .10a-ish. Looked like it went in recently (a few weeks ago). We posted it to MP as 'Unknown'. Chime in if you're the FA. I'll edit the route info and such.
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