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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Marco and I were talking about our small population of climbers here in the KRV and pretty much everyone here, including Herb Laeger, really doesn't meander down into the canyon but simply stay around New Directions, K-Ville Slab or areas of new development in the winter time and cruise up to The Needles, Domelands or Sherman Pass crags during the summer. Getting the word out down there in Bako about all this crap in the canyon?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 11, 2018 - 10:37am PT
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Hey Guyzo! Remember that place I mentioned awhile back that sits on the north side of Sherman Pass Rd, about 4.5 miles up from the river? I know we've all looked at it over the years but I managed to get some info on it last year from John Newman. Seems he went up there to check out the block formations higher, sometime in the late 80's and sneak in two short routes on the east and west side of the northen block. Of interest, he never did get in anything on the main wall below. He seems to recall that Loomis joined him but Scott said he only went up to check it with Levanthal but they turned around because it was scortching when they went. Anyway, I finally decided to recon the place back in November last year. Somewhat of a hike (1100' of gain in 1.3 miles) but worth it. Same amount of time it takes to get up to Book Rock (an hour "plus"). Turned out to be great rock. Managed to blaze in a decently cairned trail as well. Later discovered that Brian Prince and Chris Koppl had gone up there earlier in the year and established 2 routes on the main wall; an .11d and a .10a. I didn't see their lines until I went up there a second time, brining Marco and Herb along with me. By early January, we had a few projects going, including a completed route on the right side. Has potential for a few more lines on the main wall and some slab routes on the far right side. Ended up calling the place 'Kenu Wall' and 'The Grandfathers' (the blocks above) based on John's description of those formations. Figured I'd share so you had an alternate place to check out instead of a day at The Rincon. It too is south facing and a great place to climb in the winter. Shared info with Kris already. Btw, you should have hear Laeger grubbling and bitching while making the approach. HA!
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/113259389/kenu-wall
The FA of 'Song Of the Sun' (.10a)
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 25, 2018 - 11:42am PT
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Two bits of related info....
Been seeing people asking where they can get a copy of the Needles guidebook that Kris had published. FYI, Sierra South in Kernville carries the guidebook and Herb Laeger's fold out topo of climbs in and around the Kern River (Kern Slab, New Directions and a few minor roadside crags). I believe that foldout topo sells for $15. For store hours and directions, visiti their website: https://www.sierrasouth.com/
As a side note, Herb and Eve will be moving to AZ, selling their Bodfish home and keeping the one in Washington. Doin' the snowbird gig and playing more pickle ball. ;) The Kerrnville Krew will certainly miss them!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 25, 2018 - 07:01pm PT
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Good place to send the gnar and let the drill go BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRAAAAATTTTTTAAAAAATTTTTAAAAAATTTTTAAAAAAATTT
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ruppell
climber
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May 25, 2018 - 08:47pm PT
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Vitaliy
Bart Dome is a gem. One of my all time favorite routes is Mike Mason Memorial Route. That dike is as cool as it gets.
Funny this thread popped up. The wife and I are headed into check out Jackass Peak and Granite Knob. Should be a fun trip.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 25, 2018 - 09:57pm PT
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Yes that climb is a gem. I think there were about 5 bail binders on it lol
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ec
climber
ca
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May 26, 2018 - 10:08am PT
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Has anyone repeated ‘Bite the Bullet’?
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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May 26, 2018 - 05:35pm PT
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I only did Under the Rainbow! Bart Dome is a true gem, as is all of the Domelands.
I really liked the "walkoff"!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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May 31, 2018 - 08:26am PT
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Ended up spending a good amount of time in the area so far this year. What's bite the bullet all about EC?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 31, 2018 - 01:08pm PT
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Loomey would be stoked you sent Over The Rainbow. Went to Church Dome on Sunday to meet up with friends that never made it. Two other cars out there......a busy Memorial Day weekend for Church.
Skylock......must've been warm out at Scodie! Yep, I forgot the name on that .10 at the Rincon. I believe it's a Rob Brown and Jeff Lieberman route. What's the name, Kris? Also, word has it that Leventhal was slinking around up near Long Meadow. Hmmmmmm.
Yep, MMM reminds me of Fred's route, White Dike on East Fuller Butte. Super cool......following a dyke the size of a bread loaf for 5 pitches!
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ec
climber
ca
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May 31, 2018 - 03:13pm PT
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Shylock,
Nuthin’ like Scodie! I’m glad to see activity up there; such a unique place!
Bite the Bullet on Bart was the 1st route done in the middle of the face. Tricky pro and subtle stems for .8
 ec
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ec
climber
ca
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May 31, 2018 - 03:17pm PT
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 31, 2018 - 04:31pm PT
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 31, 2018 - 04:36pm PT
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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May 31, 2018 - 10:32pm PT
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Shylock nice pictures! The 5.8 flake is named 'Zig Zag'. The second pitch is 11c 'Zig Zag Deluxe'. That 5.10 route is called 'No Ordinary Moments' we rated it 10d. How'd you like the last move, getting to the anchor?
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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May 31, 2018 - 10:46pm PT
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Scodie is super cool. We went in March and it was perfect. True Love was great, though a tad scary with how thin that flake gets at the top!
Oh cool, did not notice a second pitch to zig-zag. We tr'd the left side of the flake and it was cool but had a nails hard section. The move to the anchor on the 10 was exciting, but I really remember the big moves off good holds down low. such a cool route
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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A couple more from rincon. A little guide to this place a la Herb's new directions pamphlet would be awesome. Never made it to that s shaped crack seen on the approach or to the cliff up and left which has some routes?
And let's not forget this unique and awesome place. Seems like it gets a good bit of action from locals? really fun
A couple from kenu that Mooch was talkin about
And the main attraction for most
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Yep, the E-Cracks. Did you redpoint? I believe Kris was telling me that the route up far left is the S-Crack? Good to see you got out to Kenu. Looks like Skyline Arete. Too hot now to go there.
Hey Levy, heard you were poking around up around Long Meadow.
Hey Rob, didnt you put up ZigZag?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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rincon - route name? amazing 5.10: No Ordinary Moments
5.8 flake: Zig-Zag P2 is .11b.
The next Rincon shot is someone on Snow Job 5.9?
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