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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 27, 2017 - 09:47am PT
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Pretty spotty website. But one of the best underutilized climbing areas here in CA. Love Bart Dome.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Mar 27, 2017 - 01:12pm PT
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No frills.......good ol' fashioned 'adventure' guidebook for The Domelands, which also includes the Kern River area. EC Joe also has a website that is useful. http://www.vertical20.com
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 27, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
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yep got my copy too! Almost 20 yrs old?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 27, 2017 - 04:29pm PT
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Shortly after that book came out, the word was going around down here about Church Dome. As it happened it was a weekend after the book came out when my friends and I decided to go up there. It wasn't new to us, we were familiar with the dirt roads and how to get there. It's about 30 miles of old logging roads with a bunch of turns towards the end. It's weird back there. I have a good sense of direction, but every time I get to Church Domes I'm surprised where the sun comes up.
Anyway, the road beta in that book is a little confusing to say the least. While we were driving back there we passed L.A. climbers driving every which way. It was a real crack-up.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 27, 2017 - 05:07pm PT
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church dome By the Taj Mahal.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 27, 2017 - 06:44pm PT
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Rectory Church dome.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 27, 2017 - 06:50pm PT
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church dome By the Taj Mahal.
The Choir Loft, Bro. That's a beautiful spot up there. The routes on the Taj aren't so great, but that face in your pic is awesome.
Of course so is The Rectory, that Liquid Jesus, Pumping the Nun's, The Temple of Doom (extra awesome,) and on, and on...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 28, 2017 - 09:24am PT
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So ...When do you think the roads will open up this year?
I'm ready
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Mar 28, 2017 - 09:39am PT
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Hey Kris -
Where did you and Guyzo put up X-Communication? 5.9?
Guyzo - Come up when Kris does his slide show at the brewery. Ooops......did I just say that? ;)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 28, 2017 - 12:18pm PT
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The arrow points to a narrow dark corridor. We did two routes on the right side. X-Communication is one of them Guyzo will have to cough up the name of the other. Maybe kinda stiff for 5.9, but I don't recall for sure. They're two out of four stars. I wouldn't hike all the way up there just for those routes, but if you're kicking around up there anyway they're worth bagging. Some bolts, some gear.
Interesting setting though.
Here's Menzo Baird emerging from the shade on one of those routes...
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Mar 28, 2017 - 12:40pm PT
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Whoa, that rock is crazy looking! gotta go see
TFPU
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 28, 2017 - 02:15pm PT
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Speaking in Tongues ..... 5.9 ish.
Some fine climbing up there, some of the rock is not the best so you must look around.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Mar 28, 2017 - 03:12pm PT
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Whoa, that rock is crazy looking! gotta go see
Church Dome has some of the very best rock in the Sierra. In many cases the rock quality is better than Shuteye and just as interesting. There just is only 10% of the rock that there is at Shuteye and it is harder to get to for the most part.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Mar 29, 2017 - 07:47am PT
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Thanks Kris, Guy and Jan! The beauty of The Domelands, and similar to Shuteye, is the complete lack of people and the high quality stone!! Yep, nothing to see here. all lemmings and zombies make your way to the Ditch.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Mar 29, 2017 - 10:25am PT
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Church Dome area is pretty special ! Its on that high sage brush plateau on the southern end of the Sierra. Really wild for sure and way in on a dirt road. Crystals and cool colored rock. Great Climbing all around. Lots of Rattlesnakes, we saw several in one day. And....if you like spooky places this is it! We saw no birds at all the weekend we were there. It was weird! The whole time we felt like we were being watched even though we were the only car. Bigfoot country......Yep!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Mar 29, 2017 - 10:30am PT
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So true Rene! Last time I was there, that's exactly how I felt.....being watched. Light wind but no birds. Creepy. The Hills have eyes.....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 29, 2017 - 12:53pm PT
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You are being watched. I think it was the summer before last when six of us were up there for a few daze. We camped up at the very end of the high clearance road. Guyzo took the lead in his CRV on the way out. Unexpectedly he hit a large rock in the middle of the road, between the tire tracks. It was not there when we drove in. Luckily his car was not damaged, but inspection of the rock placement revealed that it was recently placed, the grass under it was fresh and green. At that point Constine and I escorted our convoy of three vehicles on foot, me in front with the 12 ga. pump gun loaded with LE-00, Jeff bringing up the rear with the mini-14. There were several more rocks on the way down. I've wondered since then what would have come down if the car was immobilized. Or maybe it was just a message to stay away, or simple vandalism. One thing is for sure, we were being watched.
In the summer of 2000 the Manter Meadow Fire chased my friend Bryan and I out from the same spot. As we drove out on the dirt roads all sorts of people and half wrecked cars and trucks were emerging from the woods onto the road. The locals were running from the flames. I never had a clue there were people living up in them there woods until then.
Another time Barbara and I were driving in at night. After about the first ten miles of dirt I spotted two people in my headlights. They waved. As I slowed to a stop opening the passenger side window the man turned to face us. A toothless no necked monster with a sick grin. I hit the gas hard.
I won't go back in there anymore unless we have a group and the heaters.
Beautiful place and fantastic climbing though...
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Mar 29, 2017 - 12:59pm PT
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A toothless no necked monster with a sick grin.
Loomis? ;)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 29, 2017 - 01:06pm PT
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Damn dude, I just spit my coffee!
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Mar 29, 2017 - 01:44pm PT
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Kris, I think the rocks were put in the road by disgruntled hikers who believe the trail starts at the dead end of the maintained road. That 1/2 mile section up to the campsites has been blocked before. When's the Church Dome get together???!!!!!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 29, 2017 - 01:54pm PT
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That's a pretty serious move for a disgruntled hiker. I'd expect something more like a nasty note on the windshield. Trying to F up someone's car back there is a hanging crime :-)
Church Dome get together? Yes. But how much snow? When will Cherry Hill rd open?
There's still close to 5 ft of snow at the Needles.
Quaking Aspen snow depth
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Mar 29, 2017 - 01:56pm PT
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Probably not until Memorial Day.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 29, 2017 - 01:57pm PT
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^^ Not this year. Later.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 29, 2017 - 02:00pm PT
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Lets see how hot it gets....
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Mar 29, 2017 - 02:45pm PT
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Hey Kris, nice story, I think...
Man, anything w/in 50 miles as the crow flies around Lake I has potential like your story. Ever been up Erskine Ck?
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Mar 29, 2017 - 03:22pm PT
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I have an old buddy who lives near there, Jon Frank, and I'm sure that he climbs there.
Great guy. I'm sure that he still does at least 5.12, but will happily climb with a 5.9 climber.
I can hook someone up with him, if you also live in the area. These days he is really into Paragliding and Mountain Biking, but he is super strong and an absolutely great person.
We are old Oklahoma climbing buddies from back in the old days. He could do 10 one arm pullups like it was nothing, and was a really good crack climber.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 29, 2017 - 05:13pm PT
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Ever been up Erskine Ck?
I don't think so...
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 29, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
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Father Dowling's Mystery 5.10c R, Backside of the Rectory.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 29, 2017 - 07:14pm PT
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Ksolom going up something Rectory. Jan on belay
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 29, 2017 - 07:16pm PT
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Leather Nun 11a fun.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Mar 30, 2017 - 12:52pm PT
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Pretty funny how memories work. I was the one driving Guy's car when we hit the rocks and I was the one under the car prying the drive shaft safety strap back off the drive shaft after hitting both rocks. Being the smallest, and the one responsible for hitting the rocks in the first place, I got sent under the car with a nut tool. After the second rock we got out and walked the road in front of the car to clear the other rocks. That was pretty f*cked up behavior by someone.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 30, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
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Yeah I don't remember who was driving what, just the weirdness of it all.
Somewhere in the back of my head I was hearing a banjo playin'.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Went out to Spirit Rock this past Friday with Marco Krebs to jump on a few routes he and Herb Laeger put up. The first one, 'Whine And Spirits' (.10b), which was on the west end, turned out to be super clean and enjoyable. The short second pitch takes on an easy arête (The Staircase Arete) with fun exposure. Fun airy overhanging rap from there. Went to the northeast side to do 'Hocus Pocus' (2 pitch, 5.9). A little bit dirty but still fun nonetheless. The crux was well protected, with the rest of it on 5.6/5.7 terrain. nice view from the top but sad to see the past devastation of the McNally Fire.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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So how is Marco doing? I haven't seen him in a few years.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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He's doing great. Keeping fairly busy with his cabinet/wood work business. Set to build my kitchen cabinets as well. He's got a birthday coming up and a few of us are going up to The Needles to celebrate and climb.
Marco at Lower Valhalla
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Matt Sarad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2018 - 09:19pm PT
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After three climbs in five years after the bike accident/Head plant on the pavement, I went to the Kern Canyon to explore. We found four bolted routes at the turnout just before the lower power station.
Anyone know these?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Wish I could provide more info on that stuff. Does it appear to be the same crap we witnessed earlier last year with bolts right next to cracks and fixed pro in bad/fractured rock? Btw, got some good stuff going on beyond the canyon, up in my neck of the woods. A few teasers to follow. PM me on FB.
Cheers,
Dave
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Matt Sarad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2018 - 08:00am PT
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Thanks Dave. Yes, it’s the place you mention. The first climb on the left has a wide crack about two feet left of the bolts. mt. project only says that it was a trad area as early as the 70s and sport routes/bolts turned up in the 2000 era. We saw three brothers climbing it, first time I had ever seen anyone there.
Sandy with lots of fallen crud, it requires a helmet for everyone.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Marco and I were talking about our small population of climbers here in the KRV and pretty much everyone here, including Herb Laeger, really doesn't meander down into the canyon but simply stay around New Directions, K-Ville Slab or areas of new development in the winter time and cruise up to The Needles, Domelands or Sherman Pass crags during the summer. Getting the word out down there in Bako about all this crap in the canyon?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 11, 2018 - 10:37am PT
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Hey Guyzo! Remember that place I mentioned awhile back that sits on the north side of Sherman Pass Rd, about 4.5 miles up from the river? I know we've all looked at it over the years but I managed to get some info on it last year from John Newman. Seems he went up there to check out the block formations higher, sometime in the late 80's and sneak in two short routes on the east and west side of the northen block. Of interest, he never did get in anything on the main wall below. He seems to recall that Loomis joined him but Scott said he only went up to check it with Levanthal but they turned around because it was scortching when they went. Anyway, I finally decided to recon the place back in November last year. Somewhat of a hike (1100' of gain in 1.3 miles) but worth it. Same amount of time it takes to get up to Book Rock (an hour "plus"). Turned out to be great rock. Managed to blaze in a decently cairned trail as well. Later discovered that Brian Prince and Chris Koppl had gone up there earlier in the year and established 2 routes on the main wall; an .11d and a .10a. I didn't see their lines until I went up there a second time, brining Marco and Herb along with me. By early January, we had a few projects going, including a completed route on the right side. Has potential for a few more lines on the main wall and some slab routes on the far right side. Ended up calling the place 'Kenu Wall' and 'The Grandfathers' (the blocks above) based on John's description of those formations. Figured I'd share so you had an alternate place to check out instead of a day at The Rincon. It too is south facing and a great place to climb in the winter. Shared info with Kris already. Btw, you should have hear Laeger grubbling and bitching while making the approach. HA!
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/113259389/kenu-wall
The FA of 'Song Of the Sun' (.10a)
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 25, 2018 - 11:42am PT
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Two bits of related info....
Been seeing people asking where they can get a copy of the Needles guidebook that Kris had published. FYI, Sierra South in Kernville carries the guidebook and Herb Laeger's fold out topo of climbs in and around the Kern River (Kern Slab, New Directions and a few minor roadside crags). I believe that foldout topo sells for $15. For store hours and directions, visiti their website: https://www.sierrasouth.com/
As a side note, Herb and Eve will be moving to AZ, selling their Bodfish home and keeping the one in Washington. Doin' the snowbird gig and playing more pickle ball. ;) The Kerrnville Krew will certainly miss them!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 25, 2018 - 07:01pm PT
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Good place to send the gnar and let the drill go BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRAAAAATTTTTTAAAAAATTTTTAAAAAATTTTTAAAAAAATTT
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ruppell
climber
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May 25, 2018 - 08:47pm PT
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Vitaliy
Bart Dome is a gem. One of my all time favorite routes is Mike Mason Memorial Route. That dike is as cool as it gets.
Funny this thread popped up. The wife and I are headed into check out Jackass Peak and Granite Knob. Should be a fun trip.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 25, 2018 - 09:57pm PT
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Yes that climb is a gem. I think there were about 5 bail binders on it lol
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ec
climber
ca
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May 26, 2018 - 10:08am PT
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Has anyone repeated ‘Bite the Bullet’?
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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May 26, 2018 - 05:35pm PT
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I only did Under the Rainbow! Bart Dome is a true gem, as is all of the Domelands.
I really liked the "walkoff"!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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May 31, 2018 - 08:26am PT
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Ended up spending a good amount of time in the area so far this year. What's bite the bullet all about EC?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 31, 2018 - 01:08pm PT
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Loomey would be stoked you sent Over The Rainbow. Went to Church Dome on Sunday to meet up with friends that never made it. Two other cars out there......a busy Memorial Day weekend for Church.
Skylock......must've been warm out at Scodie! Yep, I forgot the name on that .10 at the Rincon. I believe it's a Rob Brown and Jeff Lieberman route. What's the name, Kris? Also, word has it that Leventhal was slinking around up near Long Meadow. Hmmmmmm.
Yep, MMM reminds me of Fred's route, White Dike on East Fuller Butte. Super cool......following a dyke the size of a bread loaf for 5 pitches!
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ec
climber
ca
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May 31, 2018 - 03:13pm PT
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Shylock,
Nuthin’ like Scodie! I’m glad to see activity up there; such a unique place!
Bite the Bullet on Bart was the 1st route done in the middle of the face. Tricky pro and subtle stems for .8
 ec
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ec
climber
ca
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May 31, 2018 - 03:17pm PT
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 31, 2018 - 04:31pm PT
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 31, 2018 - 04:36pm PT
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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May 31, 2018 - 10:32pm PT
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Shylock nice pictures! The 5.8 flake is named 'Zig Zag'. The second pitch is 11c 'Zig Zag Deluxe'. That 5.10 route is called 'No Ordinary Moments' we rated it 10d. How'd you like the last move, getting to the anchor?
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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May 31, 2018 - 10:46pm PT
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Scodie is super cool. We went in March and it was perfect. True Love was great, though a tad scary with how thin that flake gets at the top!
Oh cool, did not notice a second pitch to zig-zag. We tr'd the left side of the flake and it was cool but had a nails hard section. The move to the anchor on the 10 was exciting, but I really remember the big moves off good holds down low. such a cool route
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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A couple more from rincon. A little guide to this place a la Herb's new directions pamphlet would be awesome. Never made it to that s shaped crack seen on the approach or to the cliff up and left which has some routes?
And let's not forget this unique and awesome place. Seems like it gets a good bit of action from locals? really fun
A couple from kenu that Mooch was talkin about
And the main attraction for most
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Yep, the E-Cracks. Did you redpoint? I believe Kris was telling me that the route up far left is the S-Crack? Good to see you got out to Kenu. Looks like Skyline Arete. Too hot now to go there.
Hey Levy, heard you were poking around up around Long Meadow.
Hey Rob, didnt you put up ZigZag?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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rincon - route name? amazing 5.10: No Ordinary Moments
5.8 flake: Zig-Zag P2 is .11b.
The next Rincon shot is someone on Snow Job 5.9?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mooch.... hi thanks for up date. Leventhal and crew were at Fish and Boons Farm... and Monday at Sherman Tank.
Good info on The Godfather’s... AKA Twin Towers. Jason and I hiked up and climbed the North Tower the winter after the McNally fire when it was a cleared hill. I climbed a crack on the east face... that required cleaning of some big loose flakes out for the first 30 feet. 10a-b
On top we found zero evidence of another’s passage. We made a small pile of stones and left a rap anchor with stoppers.
If people climbed it prior to US I don’t know how they got down.
We named it Twin Towers because of the sh#t that went down in NYC, as a tribute to the dead.
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tbailey
Trad climber
canoga park
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The long traversing arch to the left of "S crack" was done by Rob and Mike. Don't recall the name. To the left of that is a crack to a roof,two
bolts and a bolted anchor,"Lazer Line", 11something. A few more routes have been done on the left side, but I don't remember what they were.
Snowjob, is a great route. Got its name because when Rob and I started it the weather was sunny and clear, by the 2nd or 3rd bolt the clouds came and so did the snow.
Curious if anyone ever makes it to the Middle or Upper Rincon these days. Fantastic multipitch crack climbing at the upper, short hike, plus
camping on the summit.
Miss the Rincon, great times, TICKS SUCK!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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T... last I herd, Mike F and James P did some climbing on “the middle “ They say it’s on a heart shaped chunk about 1.5 pitches long. They call it Heart Surgery I think.
From the top of Avalanche or Ice one can wander up to the right ... takes about 25 min.
The upper.... last time I was there it looked like people have never visited the place. Short hike?? You tiger 😐
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Guyzo -
Yah, I saw the evidence of passage on the Grandfathers just inside the second tier corridor. It had a pile of stones on the east side. By the way, you can simul rap from the northern block. Didn’t see a rap anchor using nuts. Climbed the inside crack that faces to the south (5.9). Last I saw you, we chatted about the area but you had no recollection of the place other than you had seen it from Sherman Pass Rd. Too many Igor Unchained Imperial Stout’s at Kris’s slideshow? LOL!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Any more beta on middle and upper rincon? Is this the salmon creek walls up and left of rincon that are mentioned in the Domelands guide and are approached form the top? Or some of the cliffs way up and right of rincon (that would also be approached from the top?)?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Yes, the upper Saslmon Creek Wall is approached from the northern part of Big Meadows in Domeland Wilderness. Approx. 4.5 mile hike in. As far as I know, only two routes exist on it. The original .10c and an unfinished Scott Loomis project (5.11 A3, I think). Ask Kris Solem or Guyzo about those other formations up above the Rincon. I thimk I heard that Rob and Guy explored them and put in a route or two.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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so is above and right of rincon these upper cliffs you guys are talking about?
How about the climbing on book rock? any good?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Book Rock, with the obvious shady dihedral, is very good climbing. Excellent rock, mostly Herb Laeger routes. And Vaino Kodas. There's a first class 5.12 sport route on the left face of the dihedral.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 10, 2018 - 07:23pm PT
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Here's a list of the climbs that I made for the Rincon area.
Main ledge area:
Wide Crack 5.11 Mike Flood 1991
E Cracks 1&2 5.12 Erik Erikson 1995
Unfinished route 3 bolts
Chronic 10c Rob Brown, et al 1996
Winter Heat 11a Brown, et al 1996
Sour Grapes 10c Brown, Gene Mayo 1996
Nice Job 10b Brown,Solem 1997
Snowjob 5.9 (2 pitches) Flood, Brown, Troy Bailey 1991
Broken Arrow 5.11 Flood, Brown
Blow Job 5.11+ Kris Solem, Chelsea Griffie
Indian Summer 10b Brown, et al 1995
Tic This 5.11+ Erickson
2nd level:
White Line Fever 5.9
Lost Summer (dihedral) Craig Morris 1996 FFA Erikson, Solem. 11c
On Any Sunday 10a 1999 Brown, Keese.
Little Bitch 10a Flood, Jeff Lieberman.
Lost in Space 5.10 Solem, Keese.
Upper ledge area:
Endless Summer 12a 1996 Brown, Solem, et al.
Unfinished route 2 bolts
No Ordinary Moments 5.10d Morris, Mayo, Brown.
Zig Zag 5.8 Brown, Flood 1993
Zig Zag Deluxe 11c Flood, Brown 1996
Direct Start 10b Brown
Return to Sender 11c Brown, Solem, Tidwell 1996
Mike’s Flight 11a Flood, Brown, Bailey 1993
Ice 11b Brown, Mayo, Morris 1995
Avalanche 11d Brown, et al 1995
Windy Corner 10c Morris, Brown, Mayo 1995
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 11, 2018 - 08:13am PT
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#8, unnamed bolted face is Nice Job. You and I did it. One of the more recent routes I think.
Tick this was EE and me.
Lost Summer, EE and me is .11c free.
Slab 10? Lost in Space, Myself and Guy Keesee. Space shuttle Columbia passed over disintegrating while we were up there. We found out on the car radio that night.
It's nice to see the whole list. That's quite a body of work...
edit. Blow Job was with Chelsea Griffie. It was a windy day... Prolly .11+r (The start in the crux, and it's dangerous.)
IMO No Ordinary Moments is one of the best 5.10 face climbing pitches I've done anywhere.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Jun 12, 2018 - 10:04am PT
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Hey Kris, after you guys put up Blow Job, did it ever see a SA? The second day you, Erin and I went up with Brian, Chris, Brandon, Vitaly, Daniel, I saw V start up Blow Job, He was initially trying to work right of the slanting crack, on the thin face. He had worked in few small cams on some thin eyebrows but conceded to lower off then use the crack onm the left. That more direct start, which he was doing, looked much harder! 12a?
How's quality of rock on White Line Fever?
Nice list, Rob.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Jun 12, 2018 - 01:15pm PT
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skylock -
Lexicon (.10c/d), on Book Rock, is good. That's a Herb route. Crux near the top is squeeker. Bolts are right there when the going gets tough.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 12, 2018 - 01:54pm PT
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Hey Kris, after you guys put up Blow Job, did it ever see a SA?
Not that I know of, but then I don't have a Rincon cam sitting up there. Unfortunately this shot doesn't show the boulder problem/three foot roof start. But that's the first piece there. I'm standing on the hold you have to get to turn the roof. The LZ is pointy upward facing rocks.
I must have been dumb enough to do it twice, I'm quite certain Chelsea and I were up there alone for the FA, and obviously she didn't take that pic.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Jun 12, 2018 - 02:42pm PT
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That was me (brian) who was starting up blow job. Tough warmup! The right start looked easier and better protected to me form the ground.. turns out it ended up being harder and less protected than the left/correct start. The left start was still really tough and balancy to get on to that hold Kris is talking about. I can't remember if I was able to get an ok offset cam before that move or after... Anyway the cruxy roof up higher was super awesome and well protected. I only wish the anchor was a little lower on that one as it kind of junk'd out above and I think we needed two ropes to tr. But great route.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 12, 2018 - 04:32pm PT
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Mooch, White Line Fever rock quality is excellent. It's a good route and an easy way to get a TR set up for everything between Snow Job and Tick This (2 ropes).
Kris, I took that pic of you on the BJ route :) Somewhere I also have a pic of Reid Malinbaum trying to lead it and taking a whipper at the start barely missing hitting his head on the rock at the base by an inch.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 12, 2018 - 06:12pm PT
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Yeah I was watching Reid from the upper deck there. Thought he cracked his noggin fer sure. I recall some gear popping? Rincon is not a good place to get hurt. Not that anywhere is, but you get my drift.
Anyway the cruxy roof up higher was super awesome and well protected. I only wish the anchor was a little lower on that one as it kind of junk'd out above and I think we needed two ropes to tr. But great route.
So do we have a 2nd ascent, other than my lack of common sense?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Jan 30, 2019 - 10:43am PT
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Hey sky! Trying for the life of me but what part of Kenu is this? Is this Layback And Relax?
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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this is from the layback n relax anchor. messin around on the arete to the right of it (the left side of skyline?). any more activity up there?
and Yeah kris, eventually sent bj after finding the correct start. would be amnazing if someone could put that rincon list onto a photo. something super simple would do
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Feb 26, 2019 - 12:20pm PT
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Sky -
Gotcha. We blazed in a decent trail that leads to the right side. Definitely low hanging fruit. Tried to get in there a few weeks ago and got shutdown heading up Sherman Pass Rd. A foot of snow and ice underneath @ 4500'. Might try again after this week. Warmer temps. Also. Kris and I had chatted about making the hike up the opposite ridge to the south and take shots from there of Rincon. Perhaps I can get him to come up before it gets too warm up here.
Random inquiry to the masses......found a new route on the far right side of Kern Slab, 10' left of 'Well, It Looked Easy' (.11b). 11 bolts to a 2-bolt quicklink anchor. Goes .10a-ish. Looked like it went in recently (a few weeks ago). We posted it to MP as 'Unknown'. Chime in if you're the FA. I'll edit the route info and such.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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May 16, 2019 - 10:05am PT
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For Guyzo and all others interested, Cherry Hill Road will still be closed during Memorial Day weekend.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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May 16, 2019 - 11:54am PT
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Thanks Dave, we were figuring this would be the case, especially with all the new snow today.
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