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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:23pm PT
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Fantasia, at the Leap
Danse Macabre Deto
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:38pm PT
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Only did the Nutcracker
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:52pm PT
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Royal spent some time at the Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon, just south of Telluride. He was involved in establishing some very good routes: Chewbacca 5.8 and Thor 5.10 with Bill Kees; Where the Wild Things Are 5.9 with partners unknown; Cello 5.10b and Javelin 5.10d with Chris Vandiver.
A few of these routes are quite serious, even for the modern equipped climber. Mr. Robbins set the bar high! His contribution to rock climbing is immeasurable!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
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the early morning drive from Modesto to Yosemite.
Years ago I found a book in the library at Modesto JC where I was going to school at the time and trying to figure out my life. The Vertical World by Galen Rowell pretty much changed my life.
I'd never heard of Yosemite and I could not believe it was only a few hours away.
So I jump in my VW bus one Friday skipping classes and drove up there.
By the following Monday I had quit school moved out of my apt. was on the way back to the valley.
Over the next few years I lived, worked, and climbed in Yosemite ticking many of RR's routes.
I ended up "escaping" from the valley to go back to school, this time at Columbia J College and then Chico ST.
I too have probably made that morning trip hundreds of times from visiting my folks who were still in Modesto.
That still might be my favorite route of RR's too DMT!
That and RNWFHD, Nutcracker and a bunch of others.
I'm just happy to have travelled ANY of his routes!
I can't really recall any I didn't like to be truthful:-)
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
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Rick, thanks for the mention of the Woodson classic Robbins Crack. Not a hugely significant Robbins climb but memorable to me. My first crack, I shredded the backs of my hands learning to master crack climbing on that short but sweet classic. Favorite has to be Nutcracker
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:45pm PT
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Queenpin . . . Needles
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:56pm PT
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Yes, Gray Ghost.
Probably not my favorite, but one of the more memorable, for sure!
I did it à la Bachar, just blowing off the one bolt, and shooting straight up a line of knobs.
Makes it like an on-sight solo until you get to those little pockets way up high. (By the time you get there, you are soloing anyhow, even if you do make use of the bolt).
Always wondered if Royal got a tied off tip of a baby angle in there?
(... Just try going up there in whatever footwear he was wearing!)
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 11:25pm PT
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I spoke with TM (can't recall if mentioned on the other threads) about the Ghost and his recollection was that RR didn't place any gear which he said was uncharacteristic of him as he was usually very safe when climbing with a partner. TM said RR wanted to climb in the style of other climbs nearby and make a statement. Also, as we were climbing (and Andy may recall), we heard the crash of an accident below us in the canyon causing traffic to back up for miles. We found out later that a car had crossed the line and killed a motorcyclist. A sad ending to a most memorable day of climbing.....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 17, 2017 - 12:01am PT
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Your thread is doing beautifully Jefe. Strange that Salathe was on my list from day one, but after six El Capitan routes, I still didn't get around to it until 1985. Amazing climb.
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covelocos
Trad climber
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Mar 17, 2017 - 12:26am PT
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My favorite is my first trad lead. Bussioneer!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Mar 17, 2017 - 05:58am PT
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Before I could read a book or hold a thought or had even heard of history, I climbed that Half Dome climb and then soloed that Leaning Tower climb. Because he went there first and made it okay.
Beacon
Vanguard
Solid
So
Incredibly
Solid
Two Solids
Three
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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Bussioneer, good one! My first route in JTree.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2017 - 09:47am PT
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Buissonier, The Blob, Joshua Tree FA: Mark Powell and Royal Robbins, 1965.
I remember a time when it was still rated 5.6, and in a personal way, stood as a fierce proposition!
Regarding Mt. Pacifico in the San Gabriel Mountains of Southern California. Before becoming aware of Joshua Tree or Tahquitz, I heard about Pacifico in connection with a rock climber whose name was said to be Royal Robbins.
When first encountered, even his name sounded exotic.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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https://www.royalrobbins.com/blog/first-ascents/
Way too many to mention… Among many others, I've done The West Face, The Salathé, NWF of Half Dome, Whodunit, The Unchaste, The Vampire, a free of The Hangover, etc. But I've always liked The Open Book at Tahquitz, Royal's FFA and reputedly the first 5.9 in California.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:25am PT
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Wow, where to start. If you climb on granite in California, there's so much to consider.
I'd love to say the Salathe, but haven't done it (yet). What I have done:
RNWHD
Open Book
Nutcracker
The Flakes
West Face of El Cap
Way more I'm sure I'm forgetting.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 11:17am PT
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Right side Goodrich Pinnacle......it's become popular.....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 02:03pm PT
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Certainly the first 5.9 in California.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Mar 17, 2017 - 03:44pm PT
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I haven't climbed too many of his routes, like you Cali guys have.
I really enjoyed the Regular Route on Half Dome. It is broken enough to have a sort of alpine feel, and the wall is cool even on the 4th of July, when I did it with a buddy.
The Zig Zags are more like El Cap big wall pitches, so it has a variety of climbing, from easy chimneys to A1 (for me) clean cracks.
Thank God Ledge is one of the more amazing features in Yosemite. Remember, those guys didn't know it was there, and climbed up and up, on a bigger wall than had ever been done, not knowing if it would go near the top.
Like Harding's Nose, it is a great line up a great face, and anyone who hasn't done it is missing out on some serious fun in an amazing setting. It is the perfect first Grade VI route.
I'm glad that it is still easily doable after the rockfall. I was even for a bolt ladder to make it go, because the rest of the route is just too good.
Routes like the Nutcracker are a dime a dozen. The Regular Route is a real route, the kind that is hard to find outside of Yosemite. I compare it to the Bonatti Piller on the Dru. A beautiful line, following the line of weakness until it ventures out on the exposed face, way the F up there, high enough to give you the willies if it is your first big route.
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AMB
climber
CA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 04:01pm PT
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What about The Innominate? Burly 5.9, a doubly overhanging corner, freed by RR in 1957. I've only done it once, long ago. I backed off the lead (too steep!) so Don Reid took over and cruised it. One overlooked talent of Royal's— he came up with pretty good route names. I particularly like Human Fright, The Unchaste and Whodunit.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Mar 17, 2017 - 04:15pm PT
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Did he really solo the FA of the right Ski Track?
Geez, that is a committing solo to this day.
And...remember the shoes of the day. They were just like modern hiking boots. Pre-EB days. Just the shoe difference really shows how strong some of the old dudes were.
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