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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:19am PT
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Whodunnit - Tahquitz
Longest route there up the most obvious proud part of the rock.
Stellar sustained climbing!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:29am PT
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As Ken Wilson and Royal are no longer with us, Long live the three little black knobs!
"More bold than hard"-Ken Wilson
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MN Pat
Trad climber
Minneapolis, MN
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:42am PT
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Cool. I have done a Royal Robbins climb! I did Triconi Nail about 5 years ago. He probably did it before they added the bolts, though, and might have even chopped them if they were there. It is not very tall, but it is fun. The signature Black Hills simul rap over the spire is an eye opener.Mountain Project Cerberus
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:48am PT
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Was a big coincidence but a friend and I were ragging on the first pitches of the Salathe and did the Nutcracker after that, this last Sunday. Very sad to hear of Royal's passing. A favorite route of his is probably the Salathe Wall. It is burly and thinking back of them doing the FA back in the 1960s makes me appreciate his vision even more. RESPECT!
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:55am PT
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Haven't done that many but I got to go with Fantasia...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2017 - 11:15am PT
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Awesome ^^^^^^
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 12:49pm PT
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For the purity of the line and the style in which it was established, it is the greatest rock climb on earth. Tom Frost told me a story about placing a bong on Pratt's lead at the very top of the route during the first continuous ascent with Royal in 1962. Tom was moving the bong around to find the best spot when it dropped into a perfect slot, so good that it didn't even need a tap with the hammer to be bombproof. He knew that Royal would be delighted by the crafty placement, which he was. This was the first time El Cap had been climbed by a party of two. Tom and Royal were so in tune with the Captain and each other that they hardly exchanged any words in conversation and let the experience become a meditation.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1605360/El-Capitan-s-Salath-Wall-The-Proudest-Rock-Climb-On-Earth
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 16, 2017 - 12:58pm PT
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Salathé Wall, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, FA, 5+6 days, 9/24/1961
Final answer.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
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I was really psyched to do Sandberg Peak in the Needles. This thing sounds like a really huge mountain but in reality is this ineradicably thin spire that is very top heavy. From memory it is about a 20 foot climb to clip a pin in the this very exposed spot and then a bit of 5.8 to get to better gear and the top. Picture was stolen of MP To even think about doing this thing really took some guts. Pounding that pin in had to make a few thoughts go though your head that it was going to crack in half and fall down on top of you.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:20pm PT
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Salathe Wall
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crøtch
climber
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:29pm PT
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The Open Book at Tahquitz felt like a big accomplishment when I first lead it. It is such a pure and beautiful classic granite corner. I could climb it every time I go to Tahquitz and not get bored.
And of course, RNWFHD.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:31pm PT
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Salathe wall
Vampire
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
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Not a huge climb.... but one Mark Powell told me about...
The Right Ski Track, at Josh. FA RR 1954 ON-SITE Free solo... from the ground.
I guess the legend goes like this....Young RR hops out of car... looks around and goes for it.
I guess all that climbing at Stoney really can make you hard.
But I find that most RR climbs climb the good line, the good feature, the thing of beauty.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 16, 2017 - 02:13pm PT
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But RNWFHD is a much more moderate and fun route
how many holes on that?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Mar 16, 2017 - 02:35pm PT
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Here’s a couple not mentioned yet:
American Direct on the Dru, Robbins and Hemming, 1962.
Robbins Crack at Woodson
Turnkorner Buttress, Lumpy Ridge, Colorado.
Not my favorite but probably Eeyonkee’s. A couple years ago, I was just starting to climb again and Greg offered to take me up something on Lumpy Ridge. He said I have just the route, Turnkorner Buttress on Sundance. I said sure, whatever you want. Turns out it it features a flared, cobblestone studded chimney/offwidth for a seemingly endless, hundred feet or so.I knew I was in trouble when Greg, one of the best off width climbers in history,started breathing hard while leading the crux. Me? Seriously, I almost puked. A Robbins outing from 1962 when he freed a Layton Kor route. Must have been massively unprotected back then without cams and maybe even bongs? What a hardman.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2017 - 02:55pm PT
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Rick A said:
Me? Seriously, I almost puked. Ha ha. Turnkorner on Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge. Good route.
All the leads were mine, and my follower, who was suffering a massive hangover, DID puke out of that crux chimney!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 16, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
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Any more questions?
I was wondering how many holes were drilled on NW Face of HD (total with belays etc). That's all.
You knew what the total on the Salathe was on the FA, maybe you know the total that was placed on the FA of NW face? The number on the salathe wall changed, so interesting to see how much did the number on HD change.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Mar 16, 2017 - 03:26pm PT
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Vampire (Tahquitz)
Salathe (El Cap)
Athletes Feat (Boulder Canyon)
His routes on the Diamond
Meat Grinder
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:20pm PT
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This one.....I thought of him as mainly a great crack and big wall climber until this......It shows his versatility. TM said he climbed it in RR's. Even more amazing!
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