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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 16, 2017 - 07:11am PT
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For many of us, the only way we knew Royal Robbins was through his routes.
And if you're like me, you're probably recounting some of those climbs after hearing of his passing.
He certainly bagged some gems, oftentimes the plum of the wall!
If you've done some of his climbs chances are they were classic , a breakthrough for you, or a feather in your cap...maybe all three!
He got around too, and left something for just about everyone-
big walls, free climbs, even boulder problems. Classics stacked on classics that have stood the test of time.
I've done a fair share of Royal Routes, here are just a few maybe lesser known classics.
Mecca 5.9
Thumb Butte
Prescott, AZ
FA Royal Robbins, Rusty Baillie 1971
At a generally scrappy area, Mecca is the most prominent splitter on the cleanest rock in the best location. Classic Royal. If you were working your way up the grades, Mecca was a milestone and a right of passage. The added aura that it was a Royal route sure figured strongly.
The Vampire 5.9 A3
Tahquitz
Idylwild, CA
FA Royal Robbins, Dave Rearick 1959
FFA 5.11 John Long/ Rick Accomazzo/ Mike Graham/ Bill Antel 1973
Most know The Vampire as the all time classic Stonemaster free route, but it was Royal who had the vision and climbed it first as his closing statement to his reign at Tahquitz. And guess what? It's the most audacious line on the biggest, blankest, baddest section of the rock.
It was a high point for Royal and I'm sure freeing it was a feather in the cap for those guys.
It sure was for me, one of the best routes I've ever done. History, setting, rock quality, climbing- this one checks all the boxes.
Royal said, "We were so far out there, on those thin flakes. It was a new step for us, just like when we did Half Dome."
So anyway, that's how I figure is a great way to honor and remember the Legend, by his routes.
Please share your favorites!
And thanks Royal.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:21am PT
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Fantasia, Lovers Leap. 5.9R.
You know you're a climber when you lead this tricky, meandering route.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:23am PT
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Nutcracker!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:26am PT
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The N.A.
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:29am PT
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Many good memories of routes that Royal pioneered, but there are two of them which I'll note here.
#1 is Fantasia at Lover's Leap: Because Royal wrote so eloquently about it in Advanced Rockcraft, it had quite the reputation and I was afraid of it for a long time after I started leading 5.9. So when I finally psyched-up and did it for the first time, it felt like I had broken a mental barrier in leading. I enjoyed several ascents of it later too and always reflected back on my first time.
#2 is The Prow on Washington Column: This was my first Big Wall and I climbed it in March of 1976 with Mark Hudon. We had an uncomfortable sitting bivvy and just beat a snowstorm. Good memories!
Thank you Royal for all of the pioneering that you did for us. Your memory will live forever!
Eric Barrett
Spokane, WA
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:41am PT
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Nutcracker . Allan Bard led my first ascent in 1979 & it has always been a Valley highlight .Sticky rubber was a game-changer .
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:46am PT
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Great idea Jefe! A memorial/tribute thread with a twist that allows us additional reflection.
Royal's routes in Yosemite were some of my most memorable major projects.
I have done a number of them, including The Prow, North America Wall, Salathe, and the Regular Route on Half Dome, among the big ones.
But for me, as a 17 year old in 1978, the Direct NW Face of Half Dome has to take the cake. I climbed it after a couple routes on Washington Column, but before my first trip up El Cap.
It was monstrous, situated on a steep imposing wall, far above the rest of the valley. The psychological barrier alone was immense. I had done the slabs approach, with haul bags, TWICE, and found ample excuses to scurry away with my tail between my legs, before we finally committed to the wall. This was one of the reasons that the Oregon climbers were known as the "approach masters". We were always picking far away things in the early days. And in this case not actually doing the damn thing!
To my youthful credit though, I had insisted that the Direct would be my first Half Dome route, nothing "Regular" would do.
The straight shot of that line just had a lock on my mind like no other.
Leading the Crescent Arch I felt as though I was in a giant cathedral. Ahead lay difficult aid, difficult free climbing, harder route finding in those stacked flakes than I ever imagined, and bivouacs seemingly on the Moon.
I admired Royal then, and I admire him now.
The line just pops here, with all the right facing flakes. Both Terraces and Big Sandy ledge are also easy to spot.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Mar 16, 2017 - 08:04am PT
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Nutcracker like a third of everyone here.
Since he trained so many of us to climb, aren't they all RR routes?
He once told me one of his favorites was Pacifico Rocks in the San Gabriels. Not so long ago he would dirtbag camp there when visiting LA to see his Mom.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2017 - 08:10am PT
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DMT-
Valid
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 16, 2017 - 08:20am PT
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Incubus 5.10B X at the Leap. Not anywhere near his best quality route, but indicative of the headspace he was capable of.
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gizzard
Trad climber
sacrramento
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Mar 16, 2017 - 08:34am PT
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Self Abuse. Sugarloaf,CA FA Royal Robbins 5.10b/c
I think he did in the late 50's
epic striking OW.
Thanks RR for everything!
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Mar 16, 2017 - 08:36am PT
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The Salathe with the great Greg Corliss of Mammoth and Bishop. Man, we did some good climbs together.
I remember swinging through the roof at sunset, doing the headwall in the dark, sitting out rainshowers high and low on the route, nicknaming the haul bag for an ex-girlfriend of Greg's, dry heaving with fear atop El Cap Spire, and being awestruck with the excellence of the first ascent.
Huge mental leap for me.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Mar 16, 2017 - 08:44am PT
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I'm finding it really hard to narrow it down but the quick pick is The Vampire.
...no...maybe Tis-sa-ack....damn...see what I mean?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Mar 16, 2017 - 08:49am PT
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I once tried to solo Royal's route on the Higher Spire. I turned around at the base of the Chimney of Horrors.
Looking into the maw of the chimney, I kept thinking that Royal had soloed Ahab, a route I could never touch. And now here I was a the base of a chimney that scared him so much he actually placed a bolt some 80' up.
It didn't take me long to make a decision--out came the second rope.
So maybe that's my favorite unfinished Royal route...
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Mar 16, 2017 - 08:55am PT
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Where do you start? The man was amazing...the stuff of legend.
I think my favorites are:
Nutcracker
The Prow
NW Face of HD
Fantasia (Lover's Leap)
Tricouni Nail (S Dakota)
All of them such high quality and challenging. I was blown away when I led Tricouni Nail, thinking how he did the first ascent in Klettershoes. Wow. And Fantasia...one of my favorite routes...but can't imagine being up there on the first ascent.
Legendary...even in his own lifetime...that is quite the statement for anyone.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 09:04am PT
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Gotta go with Reg NW Face Half Dome. Always wanted to do his American Direct on Les Drus but never got around to it. Pretty sure that woulda supplanted Half Dome.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 09:16am PT
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The Salathé Wall with Fantasia at Lover's Leap a sentimental second. Royal chose to write about Fantasia in Advanced Rockcraft (as mentioned earlier)so it meant something to him and I had to do it once I had the opportunity.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Mar 16, 2017 - 09:58am PT
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The Nutcracker.
I met some dude named Chris Velandi(sp?) at Columbia College. He was a bar tender in the Valley and asked if myself and my friend Roxanne wanted to do our first Valley multi pitch climb the weekend after we took a geology trip there...so we showed up and crashed at his bunkhouse on a Friday night and did the Nutcracker the next day, bright and early. I was blown away and hooked on climbing and exposure. Man, I thought I was like soooo high!! A buddy Greg and myself went back and dressed up as Tractor Tire salesman from Iowa and drug a Samsonite up it with a wall rack in it. We were goofing off and kinda making fun of tour'ons. When we got to the base we watched a fella take a whipper from 3/4s of the way up the dihedral (or middle start)all the way to the tree at the base, he was fuct. Anyway, that route hooked me and I have taken newbies on it and I can't think of anyone not digging.
For my big favorite, I'd say the NW of Half Dome, my second wall and it was a damn hoot!! My first time to the top of Half Dome!!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:07am PT
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RNWFHD
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:11am PT
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Another vote for Fantasia. It's not only my favorite Royal Robbins route, but one of my favorite routes PERIOD!
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:19am PT
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Whodunnit - Tahquitz
Longest route there up the most obvious proud part of the rock.
Stellar sustained climbing!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:29am PT
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As Ken Wilson and Royal are no longer with us, Long live the three little black knobs!
"More bold than hard"-Ken Wilson
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MN Pat
Trad climber
Minneapolis, MN
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:42am PT
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Cool. I have done a Royal Robbins climb! I did Triconi Nail about 5 years ago. He probably did it before they added the bolts, though, and might have even chopped them if they were there. It is not very tall, but it is fun. The signature Black Hills simul rap over the spire is an eye opener.Mountain Project Cerberus
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:48am PT
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Was a big coincidence but a friend and I were ragging on the first pitches of the Salathe and did the Nutcracker after that, this last Sunday. Very sad to hear of Royal's passing. A favorite route of his is probably the Salathe Wall. It is burly and thinking back of them doing the FA back in the 1960s makes me appreciate his vision even more. RESPECT!
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:55am PT
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Haven't done that many but I got to go with Fantasia...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2017 - 11:15am PT
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Awesome ^^^^^^
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 12:49pm PT
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For the purity of the line and the style in which it was established, it is the greatest rock climb on earth. Tom Frost told me a story about placing a bong on Pratt's lead at the very top of the route during the first continuous ascent with Royal in 1962. Tom was moving the bong around to find the best spot when it dropped into a perfect slot, so good that it didn't even need a tap with the hammer to be bombproof. He knew that Royal would be delighted by the crafty placement, which he was. This was the first time El Cap had been climbed by a party of two. Tom and Royal were so in tune with the Captain and each other that they hardly exchanged any words in conversation and let the experience become a meditation.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1605360/El-Capitan-s-Salath-Wall-The-Proudest-Rock-Climb-On-Earth
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 16, 2017 - 12:58pm PT
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Salathé Wall, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, FA, 5+6 days, 9/24/1961
Final answer.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
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I was really psyched to do Sandberg Peak in the Needles. This thing sounds like a really huge mountain but in reality is this ineradicably thin spire that is very top heavy. From memory it is about a 20 foot climb to clip a pin in the this very exposed spot and then a bit of 5.8 to get to better gear and the top. Picture was stolen of MP To even think about doing this thing really took some guts. Pounding that pin in had to make a few thoughts go though your head that it was going to crack in half and fall down on top of you.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:20pm PT
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Salathe Wall
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crøtch
climber
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:29pm PT
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The Open Book at Tahquitz felt like a big accomplishment when I first lead it. It is such a pure and beautiful classic granite corner. I could climb it every time I go to Tahquitz and not get bored.
And of course, RNWFHD.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:31pm PT
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Salathe wall
Vampire
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
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Not a huge climb.... but one Mark Powell told me about...
The Right Ski Track, at Josh. FA RR 1954 ON-SITE Free solo... from the ground.
I guess the legend goes like this....Young RR hops out of car... looks around and goes for it.
I guess all that climbing at Stoney really can make you hard.
But I find that most RR climbs climb the good line, the good feature, the thing of beauty.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 16, 2017 - 02:13pm PT
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But RNWFHD is a much more moderate and fun route
how many holes on that?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Mar 16, 2017 - 02:35pm PT
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Here’s a couple not mentioned yet:
American Direct on the Dru, Robbins and Hemming, 1962.
Robbins Crack at Woodson
Turnkorner Buttress, Lumpy Ridge, Colorado.
Not my favorite but probably Eeyonkee’s. A couple years ago, I was just starting to climb again and Greg offered to take me up something on Lumpy Ridge. He said I have just the route, Turnkorner Buttress on Sundance. I said sure, whatever you want. Turns out it it features a flared, cobblestone studded chimney/offwidth for a seemingly endless, hundred feet or so.I knew I was in trouble when Greg, one of the best off width climbers in history,started breathing hard while leading the crux. Me? Seriously, I almost puked. A Robbins outing from 1962 when he freed a Layton Kor route. Must have been massively unprotected back then without cams and maybe even bongs? What a hardman.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2017 - 02:55pm PT
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Rick A said:
Me? Seriously, I almost puked. Ha ha. Turnkorner on Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge. Good route.
All the leads were mine, and my follower, who was suffering a massive hangover, DID puke out of that crux chimney!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 16, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
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Any more questions?
I was wondering how many holes were drilled on NW Face of HD (total with belays etc). That's all.
You knew what the total on the Salathe was on the FA, maybe you know the total that was placed on the FA of NW face? The number on the salathe wall changed, so interesting to see how much did the number on HD change.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Mar 16, 2017 - 03:26pm PT
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Vampire (Tahquitz)
Salathe (El Cap)
Athletes Feat (Boulder Canyon)
His routes on the Diamond
Meat Grinder
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:20pm PT
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This one.....I thought of him as mainly a great crack and big wall climber until this......It shows his versatility. TM said he climbed it in RR's. Even more amazing!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:23pm PT
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Fantasia, at the Leap
Danse Macabre Deto
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:38pm PT
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Only did the Nutcracker
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:52pm PT
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Royal spent some time at the Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon, just south of Telluride. He was involved in establishing some very good routes: Chewbacca 5.8 and Thor 5.10 with Bill Kees; Where the Wild Things Are 5.9 with partners unknown; Cello 5.10b and Javelin 5.10d with Chris Vandiver.
A few of these routes are quite serious, even for the modern equipped climber. Mr. Robbins set the bar high! His contribution to rock climbing is immeasurable!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
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the early morning drive from Modesto to Yosemite.
Years ago I found a book in the library at Modesto JC where I was going to school at the time and trying to figure out my life. The Vertical World by Galen Rowell pretty much changed my life.
I'd never heard of Yosemite and I could not believe it was only a few hours away.
So I jump in my VW bus one Friday skipping classes and drove up there.
By the following Monday I had quit school moved out of my apt. was on the way back to the valley.
Over the next few years I lived, worked, and climbed in Yosemite ticking many of RR's routes.
I ended up "escaping" from the valley to go back to school, this time at Columbia J College and then Chico ST.
I too have probably made that morning trip hundreds of times from visiting my folks who were still in Modesto.
That still might be my favorite route of RR's too DMT!
That and RNWFHD, Nutcracker and a bunch of others.
I'm just happy to have travelled ANY of his routes!
I can't really recall any I didn't like to be truthful:-)
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
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Rick, thanks for the mention of the Woodson classic Robbins Crack. Not a hugely significant Robbins climb but memorable to me. My first crack, I shredded the backs of my hands learning to master crack climbing on that short but sweet classic. Favorite has to be Nutcracker
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:45pm PT
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Queenpin . . . Needles
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:56pm PT
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Yes, Gray Ghost.
Probably not my favorite, but one of the more memorable, for sure!
I did it à la Bachar, just blowing off the one bolt, and shooting straight up a line of knobs.
Makes it like an on-sight solo until you get to those little pockets way up high. (By the time you get there, you are soloing anyhow, even if you do make use of the bolt).
Always wondered if Royal got a tied off tip of a baby angle in there?
(... Just try going up there in whatever footwear he was wearing!)
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 11:25pm PT
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I spoke with TM (can't recall if mentioned on the other threads) about the Ghost and his recollection was that RR didn't place any gear which he said was uncharacteristic of him as he was usually very safe when climbing with a partner. TM said RR wanted to climb in the style of other climbs nearby and make a statement. Also, as we were climbing (and Andy may recall), we heard the crash of an accident below us in the canyon causing traffic to back up for miles. We found out later that a car had crossed the line and killed a motorcyclist. A sad ending to a most memorable day of climbing.....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 17, 2017 - 12:01am PT
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Your thread is doing beautifully Jefe. Strange that Salathe was on my list from day one, but after six El Capitan routes, I still didn't get around to it until 1985. Amazing climb.
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covelocos
Trad climber
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Mar 17, 2017 - 12:26am PT
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My favorite is my first trad lead. Bussioneer!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Mar 17, 2017 - 05:58am PT
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Before I could read a book or hold a thought or had even heard of history, I climbed that Half Dome climb and then soloed that Leaning Tower climb. Because he went there first and made it okay.
Beacon
Vanguard
Solid
So
Incredibly
Solid
Two Solids
Three
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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Bussioneer, good one! My first route in JTree.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2017 - 09:47am PT
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Buissonier, The Blob, Joshua Tree FA: Mark Powell and Royal Robbins, 1965.
I remember a time when it was still rated 5.6, and in a personal way, stood as a fierce proposition!
Regarding Mt. Pacifico in the San Gabriel Mountains of Southern California. Before becoming aware of Joshua Tree or Tahquitz, I heard about Pacifico in connection with a rock climber whose name was said to be Royal Robbins.
When first encountered, even his name sounded exotic.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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https://www.royalrobbins.com/blog/first-ascents/
Way too many to mention… Among many others, I've done The West Face, The Salathé, NWF of Half Dome, Whodunit, The Unchaste, The Vampire, a free of The Hangover, etc. But I've always liked The Open Book at Tahquitz, Royal's FFA and reputedly the first 5.9 in California.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:25am PT
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Wow, where to start. If you climb on granite in California, there's so much to consider.
I'd love to say the Salathe, but haven't done it (yet). What I have done:
RNWHD
Open Book
Nutcracker
The Flakes
West Face of El Cap
Way more I'm sure I'm forgetting.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 11:17am PT
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Right side Goodrich Pinnacle......it's become popular.....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 02:03pm PT
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Certainly the first 5.9 in California.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Mar 17, 2017 - 03:44pm PT
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I haven't climbed too many of his routes, like you Cali guys have.
I really enjoyed the Regular Route on Half Dome. It is broken enough to have a sort of alpine feel, and the wall is cool even on the 4th of July, when I did it with a buddy.
The Zig Zags are more like El Cap big wall pitches, so it has a variety of climbing, from easy chimneys to A1 (for me) clean cracks.
Thank God Ledge is one of the more amazing features in Yosemite. Remember, those guys didn't know it was there, and climbed up and up, on a bigger wall than had ever been done, not knowing if it would go near the top.
Like Harding's Nose, it is a great line up a great face, and anyone who hasn't done it is missing out on some serious fun in an amazing setting. It is the perfect first Grade VI route.
I'm glad that it is still easily doable after the rockfall. I was even for a bolt ladder to make it go, because the rest of the route is just too good.
Routes like the Nutcracker are a dime a dozen. The Regular Route is a real route, the kind that is hard to find outside of Yosemite. I compare it to the Bonatti Piller on the Dru. A beautiful line, following the line of weakness until it ventures out on the exposed face, way the F up there, high enough to give you the willies if it is your first big route.
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AMB
climber
CA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 04:01pm PT
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What about The Innominate? Burly 5.9, a doubly overhanging corner, freed by RR in 1957. I've only done it once, long ago. I backed off the lead (too steep!) so Don Reid took over and cruised it. One overlooked talent of Royal's— he came up with pretty good route names. I particularly like Human Fright, The Unchaste and Whodunit.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Mar 17, 2017 - 04:15pm PT
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Did he really solo the FA of the right Ski Track?
Geez, that is a committing solo to this day.
And...remember the shoes of the day. They were just like modern hiking boots. Pre-EB days. Just the shoe difference really shows how strong some of the old dudes were.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Mar 17, 2017 - 05:32pm PT
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My favorite Robbins Route has to be The Overhang at Deep Creek Narrows in Running Springs, CA. Goes all the way back to Day One for me.
It's just a half-rope length 5.7, at a non-destination type crag, but like a lot of Robbins Routes, when you look at the rock, this is the line you want to climb.
Starts in a roof, and goes up into a jam and a lie back.
I have never seen credit in print for the R.R. F.A., but word on the street is Royal Robbins is the one responsible.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:29pm PT
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John Gill chose:
Queenpin . . . Needles
A very intimidating looking line. Most things in the Needles of South Dakota are!
IIRC, visually, it is an exercise in vertical and undulating concavity.
Anyone with an eye for a route would see that thing commands immediate respect! And it is "only" 5.9.
Didn't climb Queenpin. I'd like to hear more about it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:32pm PT
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My favorite Royal Robbins routes:
Salathé Wall FA: Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, 9/24/1961
Royal dubbed it, "The greatest rock climb in the world." Enough said! (What the hell ... had to do it twice, once with a Euro, and also guided it).
Slab Happy Pinnacle, Left, El Capitan: East Ledges Area FA: Royal Robbins and Jack Turner, 5/1962. FFA Mark Chapman and Art Higbee, 2/1974
A menagerie of wild burliness, and one of my favorite Valley free climbs.
The Vampire, Tahquitz FA: Royal Robbins and Dave Rearick, June 1959. FFA: John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Mike Graham, and Bill Antel, 1973
Stunning line, continuously elegant movement, perfect rock.
The Yellow Spur, Eldorado Canyon FA: Layton Kor, Dave Dornan, 1959 FFA: Royal Robbins and Pat Ament, 1964
Not necessarily my favorite route in Eldo, but a classic for sure, and it achieves great position. I prefer the direct start, and I established a direct variation in the middle of the route.
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big ears
Trad climber
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:36pm PT
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Havent done many, but Country Club Crack in boulder canyon. And i did the first pitch of The Vampire at Tahquitz. Both were stellar
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:46pm PT
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Country Club and Athlete's Feat are both really good crack climbs and have very challenging face climbing starts.
But Country Club's attribution is FA: Ted Rouillard and Cleve McCarty 1956. FFA: Pat Ament, Mike Stults, Tom Ruwitch, 1967.
Athletes Feat FA: Stan Shepherd and Don Davis, 1961. FFA: Royal Robbins and Pat Ament, 1964.
I think Englishman's Home is probably the best of those 3 routes at Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon.
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big ears
Trad climber
?
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:50pm PT
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Oops. Dont know why i had Robbins in my mind for the FA. And youre right. The low face moves are crazy hard
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:57pm PT
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You thought so because it is totally a line Royal would have done!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2017 - 11:07pm PT
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And how come no love for Vendetta?
Textbook straight-in OW. That triangular roof at the start of pitch three is too cool for school!
Vendetta, The Cookie Cliff FA: Loyd Price and Roger Gordon, 6/1967. FFA Royal Robbins and Galen Rowell, 1968.
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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Mar 18, 2017 - 03:02am PT
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Athletes Feat FA: Stan Shepherd and Don Davis, 1961. FFA: Royal Robbins and Pat Ament, 1964.
Such a good climb. So impressive that this was freed "back in the day". Still a difficult, awkward route by modern standards.
I'm bummed that I glossed over his name when I lived in Boulder and did this route regularly. I was prolly fixated on Pat Aments name.
Fantasia , like others have mentioned is really of the highest quality too
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Alpinist63
Mountain climber
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Mar 18, 2017 - 04:14am PT
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American Direct on the Petit Dru west face ( not the american directissima further right) Excellent line, excellent climbing and a major alpine peak. the route is still climbable after the major rockfalls, but the upper part, above the 90m dihedral has been partly erased, so after the 90m dihedral, the route now goes left to join the standard north face route ( Allain-Leininger) . The fallen down upper part is the classic west face route, which the American Direct follows after the Bloc Coincé. Although the route is still there, the first couple of low-angle pitches are very exposed to frequent rockfall, the whole mountain is kind of 'unstable' and so the west face as well as the classic north face route see little traffic these days.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Mar 18, 2017 - 09:34am PT
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If my favorite is the one I have repeated the most, Hoodenett at Tahquitz, 6 times.
The best one is unquestionably the Salathe.
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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Mar 18, 2017 - 12:20pm PT
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Due to its position, history, and amazing climbing, The Salathe gets my vote. And as others have noted, the route meant so much to Robbins.
In a different vein, Nutcracker has it all for a crag climb. As an additional point of personal interest, Royal was partnered by Ken Wilson.
Edit: I meant to say Fantasia just above! Yup, Nutcracker also great.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 18, 2017 - 01:50pm PT
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Chris,
You and I climbed Nutcracker on June 26, 1967 - just looked it up - one month after Liz and Royal put it up. Remember?
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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Mar 18, 2017 - 01:53pm PT
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Don: But did we do it all clean?
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 18, 2017 - 01:58pm PT
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Don't remember, but I doubt it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 18, 2017 - 02:14pm PT
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With the nuts that were available at the time, the crux mantel was an ankle breaker. Royal was really good at mantels.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 18, 2017 - 02:33pm PT
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With the nuts that were available at the time, the crux mantel was an ankle breaker.
It still is a potential ankle breaker! And still is protected with nuts (in my opinion the best placement one can have there is a small/med nut).
Great video of the nutcracker here, starting at 2 mins 30seconds in..
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Bubba Ho-Tep
climber
Evergreen, CO
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Mar 18, 2017 - 03:07pm PT
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Arturus, 1982
FA by Robbins and Dick Dorworth in 1970
My first big wall solo suffer-fest.
Sadly retro bolted, hopefully still proud.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 18, 2017 - 03:12pm PT
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Another vote for Direct NWF Half Dome.
Oh wait, I already voted. Heh heh..
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Mar 18, 2017 - 08:22pm PT
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Mar 18, 2017 - 09:25pm PT
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I like this thread. I hadn't thought of it this way before, but now that I do I realize that so many of my favorites were put up by Royal. Doing the Vampire with Eric Beck was a great day. It feels more like be on a wall than anything else at Tahquitz. So many others are also wonderful. Open Book, Hoodenett, Half Dome NWF, Nutcracker. Fantasia is fascinating.
In Colorado Athletes Feat, that was the hardest free climb I had done yet back in '66. When we got back to the car I was aware of the effort it took to raise my arm to reach the door handle. The Yellow Spur was my introduction to steep Eldorado face climbing. I got off route , pumped and took a 35 foot whipper, had to come back another day after I found out where to go.
These are the best that come to mind.
If there is one route I haven't done that I wish I had it would be the Salathe.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Mar 20, 2017 - 09:47am PT
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Met RR once and thanked him for Fantasia at Lovers Leap, my local area. I told him I thought it quite run out even with modern micro cams. He simply said "now you need to do it without cams".
I asked about Fat Merchants crack 10b at Sugarloaf. a 150ft chimney with no gear for a 100 feet. He said he could not remember it! I was taken aback that something that big, hard and scary was so insignificant to him that he could not even recall it.
Such is a life led filled with so many grand accomplishments.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 20, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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So many good ones. Maybe not my favorite, but Athlete's Feat stands out as mind-boggling that Royal did it when and how he did. I couldn't touch the first pitch mantel last time I tried.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 20, 2017 - 10:40am PT
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I had to use my forehead as a point of contact in order to reset hands and complete the mantel!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
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Ahh, the Noggin Sprague second only to the Chin Sprague as an expression of truly extreme climbing. LOL
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 20, 2017 - 01:46pm PT
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Yeah....Athlete's Feat, the so called 11a mantle.....hmmmm.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 20, 2017 - 02:30pm PT
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Based on my last outing, I'm thinking that I would need to strap-on Tarbuster's cowboy hat and somehow use the brim to catch an edge and maybe mantel on it. I love the rest of the route. It is in your face and relatively unrelenting.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 20, 2017 - 03:02pm PT
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I thought Athlete's Feat was supposed to be 10D?
At least that's what I was told at the time.
Erickson's Rocky Heights has it as 10+, while Rossiter calls it 11A.
Erickson:
A classic Robbins pun, a classic route, and the most continuous free climb in the country in 1964. The first pitch, which was originally more serious, now has a bolt above the bulge for protection, Thanks to some idiots who didn't believe it could have been climbed free. A broken hold has increased its standard a little. Mostly strenuous liebacks, though the fourth pitch will keep you on your toes.
*Owing to reportage of a broken hold, it probably wasn't quite as hard when Robbins did the FA. Still, gutsy without the added bolt.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Mar 20, 2017 - 03:08pm PT
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Plus one more for Fantasia, which I recall finding very challenging.
Never did any of those longer, harder routes, never could have...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 20, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
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It's stiff at 11a.......makes a lot of the 5.11 grades for Boulder Canyon sport climbs look pretty silly.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 20, 2017 - 04:07pm PT
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Wow, waY too manY to chose from -- did Robbins ever put up a route that was less than five stars? But off the top of my head:
Vampire, Tahquitz
West Face of El Cap
ROBBIN'S CRACK! WOODSON! OH HELL YEAH!
Grossman wrote: With the nuts that were available at the time, the crux mantel was an ankle breaker. Royal was really good at mantels.
The first time I did The Nutcracker, with first-generation Chouinard nuts, it was *still* an ankle breaker. Off White, Mike Paul and I did it together, and all I managed to get in was a #6 stopper that did not inspire a lot of confidence. If I had fallen, and the nut pulled, it would have been a real drag. Off captured the drama!
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Mar 21, 2017 - 08:42pm PT
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Coronet on Queen's Throne - FA 1973
route starts 8 feet to my right and goes up to and out the right corner of the long shaded roof.
Specter and Pit and Pendulum are to the left which are also RR routes.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Mar 29, 2017 - 11:14am PT
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I gotta agree with Turnkorner, great setting (like most routes on Lumpy).
2nd or 3rd trip to Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon I was coaxed into bouldering Final Exam. Not knowing how hard it was, I made it past the first bulge and then leaped off and ended up with an orange sized bulge on my left ankle.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2017 - 01:58pm PT
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Bump for the Royal Roster...
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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May 20, 2017 - 05:14pm PT
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Having just retrieved Alpinist 58 from my mail box, I'm gonna insert a daughter's sappy take on the thread and say, "His life".
....as a non-climber, hopefully I'll be afforded some latitude there ;)
Cheers....
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Ian Parsons
climber
UK, England
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May 20, 2017 - 06:09pm PT
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I had to use my forehead as a point of contact in order to reset hands and complete the mantel!
I'm honoured to relate that my first thought on reading this - ie before checking context - was 'Athlete's Feat'.
Except you'd all say "honored".
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